Wishbone

Description:

• One of my best friends -- a transplanted Chicagoan who now lives in New York -- always has one request when she comes back to town: dinner at Wishbone. It's that kind of place, a down-home, casual spot that inspires intense loyalty (even if the food is only good rather than outstanding).

  Known for Southern food and big-appetite breakfasts, Wishbone's extensive, reasonably priced menu blends hearty, home-style choices with healthy and vegetarian items. Brunch is the 'Bone's claim to fame, when an eclectic crowd of bedheads pack in for the plump and tasty salmon cakes, omelets, and red eggs (a lovely mess of tortillas, black beans, cheese, scallions, chile-ancho sauce, salsa, and sour cream). However, brunch at Wishbone can be a mob scene, so I prefer to go for lunch or dinner; offerings include "yardbird" (charbroiled chicken with sweet red-pepper sauce), blackened catfish, and hoppin' John, the classic Southern dish of brown rice, black-eyed peas, and ham (there's also a vegetarian version, hoppin' Jack). Entrees come with your choice of two side dishes, which range from healthy (fresh fruit) to heavy (macaroni and cheese; mashed sweet potatoes). The tart Key lime pie is one of my favorite desserts in the city. The casual ambience is a good bet for families (plus a children's menu is available).

  There's a newer location on the North Side, at 3300 N. Lincoln Ave. (at W. School St.; tel. 773/549-2663), but the original location has more character.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010