Named after Denmark's most celebrated philosopher, this is an artfully minimalist dining room that's on the ground floor of the Black Diamond (the ultramodern, intensely angular addition to the Royal Library). It has the kind of monochromatic gray and flesh-toned decor you might find in Milan, and glassy, big-windowed views that stretch out over the nearby canal. Menu items change frequently, but the chef never cooks with butter, cream, or high-cholesterol cheese, making a meal here a low-cholesterol and savory experience. In a land known for its "butter-and-egg men," this type of cooking is heresy. Some Danes boycott it, but foreign visitors, especially those watching their waistlines, flock here for a superb meal. Your taste buds will love you if you order such dishes as a velvety foie gras, a carpaccio of veal, and a truly superb oyster soup. Attention to detail and a proud professionalism distinguish such main dishes as veal chops served with lobster sauce and a half-lobster or else roasted venison with nuts and seasonal berries with a marinade of green tomatoes, the latter providing a wonderful savory taste that we enjoy. To reach this place, you'll have to enter the library, and pass through the lobby of the new Black Diamond Wing.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Recommended 2010