Copenhagen off the beaten track

Our Local Expert Says:

Inexpensive, quiet and homely.

Description:

Unlike other sleep options in Vesterbro, this three-star hotel is located in a spacious villa on the edge of the Frederiksberg neighborhood, well-situated close to the many shops and cafes on Vesterbrogade and Værnedamsvej. It's very reasonably priced - still cheap despite having a TV and bathroom to every room - and its location on a quiet side street offers a little peace from the bustle of the city, with the option of adding extra beds for families. Though recent refurbishments have created a new conference room and an apartment for longer stays, this family-run hotel retains an old-fashioned charm.

Description:

Located in the grand surroundings of an old shooting lodge, the city museum holds a number of locally-focused exhibits that chart the changes in Copenhagen both physically and socially. These include a walk from the western suburbs into the city center and through time, from the Middle Ages to the present day. Kids will be fascinated by finding themselves, as well as where they're staying, on the large model city outside the entrance on Vesterbrogade. The museum is open every day and is free for under-18s and for everyone on Fridays.

Description:

This quirky café, located on the erstwhile "food street," is also an important spot for bar-hoppers on Friday nights. It offers French food and drinks and the menu is as creative as the décor with comic strips of the cartoon character, 'Gaston' ('Viggo' in Danish), painted on the walls. The café attracts a wide variety of customers ranging from coffee lovers to party animals. The brunch buffet is extremely popular amongst the locals. Making a reservation during the weekend is a good idea. The kitchen usually closes at 10.00 p.m. and at 4.30 p.m. on Sundays. - Vishv Priya Kohli

Description:

The Lakes - or Søerne in Danish - are one of Copenhagen's most important recreational areas, and frame the city center's land-locked borders as they curve around the western side of the Indre By. Ringed by paths popular with joggers, dogwalkers and runners, the three lakes are individually called Sankt Jørgens Sø (at the Vesterbro end, next to the Planetarium), Peblinge Sø (which you cross to reach Nørrebrogade) and Sortedams Sø, at the Østerbro end. Although the Lakes are in fact man-made, they do date back as far as the 16th century - created first as fortifications for the city and later maintained as reservoirs. Ducks, swans and herons can often be seen on the small islands or amongst the reeds on the shoreline, and the Lakes are equally beautiful in wintertime, when they usually freeze over. In summer, the numerous restaurants and cafes situated around all the Lakes are extremely popular thanks to the pleasant outside seating.

Description:

In addition to the astronomical displays of the permanent exhibition 'The Active Universe', the big draw here is the IMAX dome-shaped cinema screen, showing films not only set in space but also in the depths of the ocean and jungle. Ticket price to exhibition includes the price of a movie ticket.

Our Local Expert Says:

A bistro atmosphere that has won over the city's food critics.

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Popular with the city's chefs and restaurateurs, this popular Vietnamese bistro reminds diners of Vietnam's days as a French colony, not only in its menu but in its decor. Expect to wait for a table, as there are no reservations, but orders are taken quickly.

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This is a blessing in disguise at a time where mass-fabricated British pubs are popping up everywhere, faking an authentic 'ye olde pub' feeling. Enter Keegans and you will find a 'true' British pub, even to the point of being run as a neighborhood cooperative. The locals play snooker and darts while drinking plenty of Guinness and Kilkenny's. Beer comes by the pint at this British pub Britons can only dream of: unlike its British counterparts, this place does not close until 5am.

Description:

Kastellet is a star-shaped fortress near Langelinie. Its bastions and moats are almost unchanged from when they were a part of the original structure built in 1660 as per recovered drawings of Heinrich Rüse, a Dutch fortress expert. Kastellet was built as a result of the wars against Sweden at the time. The forts appear today almost as they did towards the end of the nineteenth century, but without the outer parts. This has been made possible by thorough restoration work financed by the company A.P. Møller. It is now possible to walk on all of the bastions. Entrance is through the recently restored Kongeporten (the King's Gate), dating from 1663. Inside are barracks where you find the state prison and Kastelskirken church. Exit is through Norgesporten (the Norwegian Gate). For many reasons, Kastellet has become a popular place to visit. It is wonderful to walk around the bastions in all seasons. Since most old trees have been removed, there is an excellent view over Langelinie, the harbour and the centre of the city.

Description:

The Gefion Fountain is in Churchillparken, at the end of Amaliegade. From the fountain, you have a magnificent view down to the square at Amalienborg. The sculpture is situated next to the lovely natural area of Kastellet. The huge, dynamic sculpture, revealed in 1908, was created by Anders Bundgård. In this sculpture it is Gefion, the energetic Norse goddess, who swings her whip over her sons. The backs of the oxen swell under the strain and water sprays up from behind the wheels and the plow. The water coming out of the nostrils of the oxen emphasizes the dramatic action and the power and strength the oxen put into their work.

Description:

This area could be described as the most beautiful in Copenhagen, and stretches from Esplanaden to Lystbådehavnen, the pier of Langelinie and Frihavnen. If you walk along the outer harbor of Copenhagen, you will be able to enjoy a breath of fresh air from resund. You will also pass the Gefion Fountain, the statues of Frederik IX and Princess Marie, the The Little Mermaid, and the Mylius-Erichsen Monument (to the people who died during the Greenland Expedition 1906-07). Last but not least, you'll see Frihavnen, with its warships and huge cruise liners, which is now also a housing and business district. From Langelinie you can see over to Holmen, where the yacht of the Royal Danish family, Dannebrog, usually lies anchored.

Description:

At the Museum of Applied Arts you will find handicrafts dating from the Middle Ages up until today. Amongst the many items there are fabrics, china and faiences, silverware and jewels, but also furniture and other household goods. The museum is located in an old Rococo building dating from 1757. In the summer the Grønnegård theatre holds performances in the beautiful garden belonging to the museum.

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Frederikskirken is familiarly known as 'Marmorkirken' or the Marble Church, as original designs when building first commenced in 1749 envisaged a rococo church of marble. Almost 150 years were to pass before the church was actually completed, with only a fraction in marble, but with its signature dome, a landmark of Copenmhagen's skyline and the largest in Scandinavia, said to be inspired by Rome's Church of St Peter. A number of architects worked on the church - amongst them Nicolai Eigtved, French Jardin and - almost a century later - C.F. Tietgen, who finally transformed the romantic ruin into a working church . Recent building to extend the city's Metro subway line has met with some problems, as the line is to run directly under the church - but it has also uncovered some interesting historical discoveries spanning the 150 years from foundations to completion.

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Galleri Christian Dam is an expert in Icelandic art, as well as in Nordic artists such as Finn Mickelborg.

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'Prettiest theater in the country', boasts Grønnegårds Teatret, and not without reason. The location is almost unbelievably idyllic, outdoors in the green park of the Kunstindustrimuseet, right in the middle of the royal quarters of historical Copenhagen. The audience arrives with picnic baskets of wine and food which are enjoyed on the green, while old comedies unfold on the stage in a whirlwind of colourful costumes, making the wine, the park, the sun, the laughter and the wonder of living in Copenhagen during the summer melt like sunshine in your head.

Our Local Expert Says:

For a unique experience.

Description:

This fascinating watering hole is one of the oldest in Copenhagen, historically interesting for being the first place to introduce the bar counter to the Danish capital. A sailor brought it back here in 1917, having purchased it while on shore leave in New York, and that was about all he needed to start this small establishment whose interior and character hasn't changed much in almost a century. Frequented by artists, writers and journalists as well as many of the civil servants who work in the area, the place serves bottled beer only-with the only food available being the jar of hard-boiled eggs at the counter. Like 'Cheers', the action takes place around the bar top, and you're sure to leave here feeling like you've seen a little more of the real Copenhagen.

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Run by retired police officers, this small museum presents the history of law and order in Denmark, as well as some of the most gripping criminal mysteries of the last centuries. It's all in Danish, but the museum's friendly staff will do their best to help you piece together these intriguing thrillers.

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Assistens churchyard is Copenhagen's biggest cemetery. It was originally a place where smaller churchyards would be located to, as well as being a churchyard for the poor. Today it is open to all citizens to use. Celebrities, such as H.C. Andersen, Søren Kierkegård, Jens Juel or Martin Andersen Nexø are all buried here. There are plans to turn the churchyard into a park, as the local people already use it as a place to meet with there loved ones or to sit in the sun in the summer.

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Valhal ( Valhalla) is where dead warriors go in old Norse mythology. In Tivoli, though, it is where you go if you want a bit of that old Viking atmosphere. It is open only in the Tivoli season (14 April-24 September) and during the Tivoli Christmas Market. The restaurant is designed like a Viking castle, with stone walls and torches. Space for 140 people, gods and humans alike. The menu is based upon authentic old recipes; specialities are Viking skewers, crispy shank of pork, and ribs grilled on lava stone. Honey is used in a range of dishes, and mead is available at the bar. Menus cost DKK175-350. You can unfortunately not not pay with walrus tusks, furs or spices...

Our Local Expert Says:

The perfect starting point for a lesson in Danish art history.

Description:

Despite its unassuming exterior and out of the way location, the Hirschsprung museum has one of the world's largest collection of paintings from what is known as the Danish Golden Age of art and thus offers a fantastic overview of Danish 19th century art. The extensive private collection of tobacco tycoon Heinrich Hirschsprung (1836-1908) and his wife Pauline includes a great deal of work from the Skagen painters, including P.S. Krøyer and Michael and Anna Ancher. This small, old-fashioned museum is positively crammed with art, the walls filled with gilt-framed oil paintings - even the furniture is a period antique from the family collection.

Description:

Østre Anlæg was originally part of the moats of Copenhagen. The park was laid out in 1871 in the style of an English garden. In Østre Anlæg you find Statens Museum for Kunst with its white marble annexe, and the Hirschsprung Collection. You will also find flowerbeds, statues and monuments.

Our Local Expert Says:

Eye-catching architectural styles and an even more eclectic collection of art.

Description:

With more than one thousand works on show over three floors, the Statens Museum takes on 700 years of art history, both Danish and international. While the original building dates from 1896, overcrowding in the past decade has led to two modern extensions, first in 1970 and later in 1998 - the latter including a huge glass façade that offers a splendid view of the museum's grounds and lake. The museum's 'sculpture street' functions as a kind of bridge between the architectural styles. The exhibitions are organized according to themes, allowing the viewer to compare two works from different periods of art history. While this makes interesting browsing, it can make finding a particular work challenging. Families should also check out the interactive children's wing, where there's also a chance to participate in workshops.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite with local critics.

Description:

While the slot machines next to the bar hint at this restaurant's past as a smoky watering hole, its been garnering quite a reputation for its authentic Italian fare since opening in 2007. Owner David Fischer previously worked at some of the best restaurants in Rome and runs this place along those lines, with vegetables ordered separately to the traditional meat, pasta and risotto dishes all served at reasonable prices.

Our Local Expert Says:

A brunch favorite

Description:

With an owner from Chicago, an Italian/American kitchen and a clean Scandinavian finish, Cafe Marius has the recipe for good, simple dining. While it is possible to eat an evening meal here it's Marius' special filled pancakes that have given the place its reputation. Offered as part of the weekend brunch, they come in 7 mouth-watering varieties, including banana and walnut. Be warned though, it can get very busy.

Description:

At this museum you can follow the development of the culture and history of the working classes in Denmark since 1850. The Workers' Museum is situated in the former Workers' Assembly Hall, which was built by the labour movement in 1879. The Assembly Hall was restored in 1985 to its original World War I splendour. Karl Liebknecht, Rosa Luxembourg and Lenin have all spoken in this hall. Nowadays The Assembly Hall is used for exhibitions, concerts, theatre and political meetings. It also houses the café-bar Ølhalle 1892. Admission: adults DKK50; children 7-13, students, and senior citizens DKK30.

Description:

This fun restaurant is also a cocktail bar and small nightclub, all with a distinctly Latin feel, Barbarellah being a family-owned business run by three Chilean Copenhagener siblings who helped introduce Danes to the Latin vibe long before the craze hit Europe back in the late '90s. The restaurant, with one of the latest-opening kitchens in the city (not closing until midnight), offers Argentinean steaks, sandwiches, burgers and even a Latino-style fish'n'chips. Closed Mon-Tues.

Our Local Expert Says:

This quirky cafe-bar's artful decor just has to be seen to be believed.

Description:

Bankeråt means 'Bankrupt'. Nevertheless, this café is not broke or going out of business. Very much alive and kicking, it gained its fame through some TV poetry sessions held here. Even though it is somewhat out of the way on Ahlefeldtsgade, it is frequented by a wide audience. The place has paintings on the walls and the atmosphere is pleasant.International dishes are served. The ingredients are mainly organic. The food is good and cheap enough to ensure that the customers come back time and again.

Description:

West Amager's Nature Center was developed over Amager Fælled, a large green space south of the city, between 1992 and 1997. Since then it has grown extremely popular with Copenhageners, particularly families, as a country retreat in the city, just ten minutes walk from West Amager Metro Station (a 14-minute ride from downtown Nørreport Station). There are plenty of ways to enjoy the center's 2000 hectares, including renting a bike, making a campfire, riding an Icelandic pony or letting the kids loose in the nature playground. The playground, called 'Himmelhøj' (Sky High) consists of four different areas, each with a different theme for imaginative play, all carved from wood; one is shaped like a ship, another with tall towers where children can imagine themselves as insects. The center has public toilets and a small café where you can buy refreshments or eat your own packed lunches.

Our Local Expert Says:

A totally unique attraction: only in Denmark.

Description:

In 1971, a band of hippies decided to squat a collection of deserted army barracks close to Copenhagen's Christianshavn neighborhood, proclaiming the area as a Free State to be self-governed as a collective. Almost four decades later, Christiania continues as one of the country's biggest attractions, confirming the global view of Denmark as a tolerant nation able to accept Christiania as a 'social experiment'. It's possible to walk around the 32-hectare, car-free area, which houses a music venue ( Loppen), various vegetarian cafes and bars as well as a surprisingly classy restaurant (Spiseloppen). Since the notorious open-air marijuana market 'Pusher Street' was shut down in 2004, Christiania has seen a steady police presence, yet despite all attempts to gradually 'normalize' the area, it remains as a testimony to the tenacious free spirit of liberal Scandinavia.

Description:

Cafe Nemoland offers plenty of opportunities to blow your mind. Located just a short walk from downtown, Nemoland is a popular gathering spot for disgruntled youth, backpackers, and the bohemian locals. A lively venue until the wee hours of the morning, here you can talk with people from around the globe over your favorite indulgence of choice. See their website for further details.

Our Local Expert Says:

This Christiania venue is almost legendary.

Description:

This nonalcoholic coffee shop functions as a cafe, poolroom, and restaurant. Breakfast is served from 10a-1p and they claim to have the best bacon and eggs in town. After 1p, they serve a wide range of sandwiches and cakes. On their walls hang the works of local artists and new pieces are featured every month. See their website for further details.

Description:

This attractive neighborhood is characterised by its network of canals and the brightly-painted houses clustered around them, many of which date back to the 1600s. Christianshavn was originally settled by Dutch workers who were brought to Copenhagen to work on nearby Slotsholmen on the orders of King Christian IV; reclaimed marshland just over the water became their home, and Christianshavn-'Christian's Harbor' took on the look of a miniature Amsterdam. While it became one of the city's poorest quarters during the 1800s and early 1900s, the 1990s saw a dramatic change, as Christianshavn became one of the most fashionable areas of Copenhagen to live in.
Christianshavn is pleasant to just wander around; specific attractions include the twisting spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke and the naval Orlogsmuseet. This upmarket neighborhood also has some of the city's best restaurants, including world-famous noma and expensive Italian Era Ora. read more

Description:

Cafe Wilder is a haunt for many of the locals at Christianshavn. This little cafe is popular not only because the excellent views of the canal district, but for its flavorful menu and neighborhood feel. Wilder is host to much of the international community in Copenhagen as well as it is situated close to Downtown and the Ministry of Affairs. Open daily from 9:00am, this pleasant cafe serves all your favorite libations and menu items with the average price of DKK85.

Description:

Eiffel Bar is a lot bigger than it looks from the outside, and is always packed. The Parisian feel was imported in the 1930s and is well preserved, with Eiffel Tower replicas everywhere. A mixed crowd of businessmen, diplomats and students hangout at this lively bar.