Hans Christian Andersen's Copenhagen

Hans Christian Andersen's Copenhagen

Description:

Follow in the footsteps of the magical storyteller, with an itinery that includes a daytrip to the town of HC Andersen's birth and childhood. Visit the places where he lived and wrote, including those spots where he attempted to pursue his dramatic dreams, and the museums dedicated to his work. Finally, visit his grave in Assistens Kirkegård.

Author: Jane Graham
After touring most of Europe in her twenties, Jane was charmed by Copenhagen's relaxed tempo and moved... view profile

Day Note:

For a true HC Andersen experience, a stay at the stately Hotel D'Angleterre would be the only option: Considering the rates here however, a more practical option would be the next-best, nearby Hotel Opera, situated under the arches next door to the Danish Royal Theater and a suitably literary residence.
DAY 1 ought to be spent in the area around Kongens Nytorv and Nyhavn, where Andersen spent so much of his time in Copenhagen: his (failed) attempts to become...read more

  • Hotel Opera

    Hotel Opera - Copenhagen
    • Contact:

    • +45 3347 8300
    • visit website
    • Location:

    • Tordenskjoldsgade 15
    • Copenhagen K,SK1055
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    Our Local Expert Says:

    For those with theater in the blood

    Description:

    The amazing location of Hotel Opera ought to make this the first choice for anyone with a thing about the theater-or at least about old ones like The Royal Danish Theater. Tucked away down a side street off Kongens Nytorv Square under Det Kongelige Teater's famous arch, the three-star, Arp-Hansen owned Hotel Opera offers 91 nostalgically decorated rooms, a classic English style and a peaceful atmosphere. The building dates from 1869, and was developed into today's hotel in 1950. Modern facilities include the lobby bar, 24-hour reception and wireless internet connection in all rooms.

  • Magasin du Nord

    Magasin du Nord - Copenhagen

    Description:

    The city's oldest department store is something of an institution, rather like Bloomingdales or Selfridges. A visit to Magasin is a must for anyone who likes to shop - whether you're on the hunt for a smart outfit or a Danish design souvenir. The store is also a great place for foodies, with a gourmet food and wine department, Meyer's Deli and a number of cafes.

    Magasin's history dates back to the 19th century, when the then Hotel du Nord became the home for an unknown writer named Hans Christian Andersen - he rented two small rooms in the attic here in 1838. The building's facade is a little more recent, and inspired by the French department stores popular at the turn of the century. The store found itself under new management in 2005 and, despite its rich history, continues to offer a fascinating assortment of very typical Scanidinavian brands.

  • Kong Hans Kælder

    Kong Hans Kælder - Copenhagen
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    Dignified dining in one of the city's longest-running French restaurants.

    Description:

    This upmarket French restaurant is tucked neatly away in the atmospheric vaults of one of Copenhagen's oldest buildings, just off Kongens Nytorv. It may seem a little conservative compared to the city's newer crowd of gourmet restaurants, but the gourmet Kong Hans has represented gastronomic luxury for Copenhageners since it opened in 1976. The restaurant was one of the first in Denmark to be awarded a Michelin star for the high standard of its cuisine, and has held onto it despite perhaps not moving with the trends. The kitchen is French with a Danish twist, and offers both a set eight-course menu (DKK 1150) and a la carte, with foie gras, lobster and duck perennial favorites-always impeccably presented. The restaurant is as expensive as its reputation suggests, with mains from DKK 450. Reservation and smart dress essential.

  • Hotel D'Angleterre

    Hotel D'Angleterre - Copenhagen
    • Contact:

    • +45 (0)3312 0095
    • visit website
    • Location:

    • KONGENS NYTORV 34 BOX 9077
    • P. O. Box 9077
    • København,SK1022
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    Our Local Expert Says:

    The most famous hotel in the city

    Description:

    To Danes, this historic five-star hotel epitomizes luxury and opulence much as the Ritz does to Londoners; known for its classiness and discretion, its legendary Royal suite has been a home from home to everyone from Grace Kelly to Bill Clinton, from Eleanor Roosevelt to Cameron Diaz. The story of Michael Jackson taking over one entire floor of the hotel is part of national folklore, while, decades earlier, silent comedy legends Laurel & Hardy greeted fans from the Kongens Nytorv balcony. With room rates starting at DKK 1900kr for a double room however, the nearest most of us will ever get to staying here is a walk across the red carpet leading out onto Kongens Nytorv-or at best a meal in the hotel's snooty restaurant.

    The hotel dates from 1755-making it one of the oldest in the world-and although its thorough modernization includes the luxurious Arndal Spa, these days its pomp all seems a little stuffy and old-fashioned, and state-of-the-art design is better found elsewhere in the city.

  • Det Kongelige Teater

    Det Kongelige Teater - Copenhagen

    Description:

    Located on Kongens Nytorv, the Royal Danish Theatre was built by architect Wilhelm Dallerup in 1874. The building is especially impressive at night when crowds flock to the theatre in evening dress. Home of the Royal Theatre Company, the Royal Ballet and the Opera, the theatre has two stages: Gamle Scene (old stage) and Ny Scene (new stage). Gamle Scene has a magnificent auditorium. The ceiling is decorated with Constantin Hansen's Nine Muses. Sculptures of two of Denmark's most famous playwrights decorate the entrance: Ludvig Holberg (1684-1754) was sculpted by T. Stein in 1875 and Adam Oehlenschläger (1799-1850) made by H.W. Bissen in 1861. In 1929-31 the Ny Scene was built in a separate building, the controversial, art deco Stærekassen. The ticket office is open 1p-8p M-Sa. Left-over tickets are sold at half-price from 5p on the evening of the performance.

  • A Porta eta. 1792

    A Porta eta. 1792 - Copenhagen

    Description:

    Time was when Kongens Nytorv's Cafe A Porta was simply a place for old ladies to sip cups of coffee and fancy pastries after a tour of nearby Magasin, until local business tycoons the Olsen Boys (owners of Cafe Victor and B&W Gastropub) revamped the place in 2009, transforming it from genteel coffee house to trendy French brasserie and exclusive, afterhours nightclub. As the name illustrates, this restaurant has its roots right back to the 1700s, making it one of Copenhagen's oldest. The rather expensive menu includes European classics like Wiener schnitzel, chateaubriand and fillet of veal with foie gras; there is also a two-course theater menu for those heading onwards to the Royal Theater from 5.30-7pm.

  • Nyhavn

    Nyhavn - Copenhagen
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    Our Local Expert Says:

    A tourist must.

    Description:

    This small harbor street is one of Copenhagen's biggest visitor attractions, and while its row of timber-built, brightly-painted 17th-century buildings-most of them cafes-are an obvious tourist trap, there is something delightful about sitting here by the water on a hot summer's day. While all the cafes offer outside seating in spring/summer as well as a mostly traditional Danish lunch menu, a cheaper alternative is to buy a bottled drink from a local supermarket or an ice cream and sit on the edge of the pier. Nyhavn has two very different sides, with the Charlottenborg side much quieter. It also has a lively and chequered past: Just 30 years ago, the street was a rowdy collection of notorious drinking dens frequented by sailors. Heavily cleaned up for tourists, traces remain in the tattoo parlor and the all-night Hong Kong Bar. Note that should you be visiting Copenhagen in wintertime, off-season Nyhavn is virtually deserted.

Day Note:

Take a trip to Odense, birthplace of Andersen and where he lived until leaving for the Danish capital as a starstruck 14 year-old. The town's HC Andersen Museum is its biggest attraction. Visit as part of a guided bus tour from Copenhagen or independently: Direct trains to Odense run regularly from the city's Central Train Station.

  • H C Andersen Tour

    H C Andersen Tour - Copenhagen
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    Description:

    The H C Andersen Tour starts at Rådhuspladsen, and lasts ten hours. Initially, the bus drives through Zealand and crosses Storebælt by the famous Storebæltsbro, the largest suspension bridge in Europe. On the other side, you will discover the lovely landscapes of Fyn. The bus then goes to Egeskov Slot, a castle in the middle of a lake with an extraordinary park around it; then to Odense, the native town of world-famous Danish fairytale writer, H.C.Andersen (1805-1875). There you can visit the museum in his original home. Tickets must be ordered in advance.

Day Note:

Spend Day 3 in the city's musems, with the morning spent at the wonderful Royal Court Theater Museum on Slotsholmen. Here you will be whisked back to the days of theater productions of the 1700 and 1800s, in an experience that includes mannequins, costumes and lighting.
After a lunch of open sandwiches at the nearby Kanalcafeen (it dates all the way back to 1852), head for the City Hall Square to check out Henry Lukow-Nielsen's statue of Hans Christian Andersen,...read more

  • Teatermuseet

    Teatermuseet - Copenhagen
    • Contact:

    • 3311 5176
    • visit website
    • Location:

    • Christiansborg Ridebane 18
    • Christiansborg Castle
    • Map

    Description:

    Hans Christian Andersen was once a ballet student here, although we can't imagine how this awkward "ugly duckling" looked onstage performing Swan Lake. Theater buffs flock to this museum in the Old Court Theater that was constructed by King Christian VII in 1767 as the first court theater in Copenhagen. In 1842, the theater was overhauled and given its present look, but the curtain went down for the last time in 1881. It made a "comeback" as a museum in 1992, tracing the history of the Danish theater from the 18th century to modern times. The public has access to the theater boxes, the stage, and the old dressing rooms. Some of the great theatrical performances of Europe, from Italian opera to pantomime, took place on this stage, and photographs, prints, theatrical costumes, and even old stage programs tell the story, from Ludvig Holberg to the present day.

  • Kanalcafeen

    Kanalcafeen - Copenhagen
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    Description:

    This lunch restaurant has become something of a landmark in Copenhagen, having been around since 1852. It serves traditional Danish open sandwiches or 'smørrebrød,' specializing in the archetypal herring dishes usually enjoyed with a Danish shot of schnaps. With a real old-fashioned, dark wood decor, the cafe does not open in the evenings; and being the only restaurant close to Christiansborg, Kanalcafeen is popular with politicians taking a breather from the nearby Parliament.

  • HC Andersens Eventyrhuset

    HC Andersens Eventyrhuset - Copenhagen

    Description:

    While serious HC Andersen fans may find this obvious tourist trap more gimmick than content, kids are sure to love the recreation of Andersen's timeless fairy tales in colorful tabelaux that utilize light and sound effects. This museum is managed by the 'Top Attractions' firm, who also own Ripley's Believe It or Not!, and the Guinness World Records museums in Copenhagen, and offers similar family-friendly exhibits. During the summer, this museum is open until 10pm daily.

Day Note:

Spend Day 4 in the delightful and historic Latin Quarter of the city. Take a trip up to the top of the old observatory of the Round Tower or Rundetårn; Andersen spent many hours here when the current gallery space belonged to the university as library. After a quick but healthy lunch from Den Økologiske Pølsemand (the cart can be found at the foot of the Round Tower) visit the nearby city cathedral, Vor Frue Kirke, where Andersen's funeral took place in 1875.

  • Rundetårn

    Rundetårn - Copenhagen

    Our Local Expert Says:

    A fascinating walkway to a great view of the city.

    Description:

    Europe's oldest functioning observatory, the Rundetårn (or Round Tower) was built under the orders of King Christian IV in 1642, and remains a fascinating piece of architectural engineering. Central to this (and unique in Europe) is the 209 meter-long spiral ramp, which twists around the tower 7.5 times before reaching the top of the 34.8 meter-high tower. With Copenhagen's landscape decidedly lacking in tall buildings, the summit still affords some of the best views over the city. As well as its astronomical purpose, today's Round Tower is home to a modest gallery hosting changing exhibitions as well as concerts.

  • Den Økologiske Pølsemand

    Den Økologiske Pølsemand - Copenhagen
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    Description:

    Copenhagen's traditional 'pølsevogn' or mobile hot dog stands have been rapidly dwindling in recent years, but perhaps this original new concept will change all that, taking the country's fast food staple and offering an organic, healthy incarnation. Claus Christensen opened his hot dog business in November 2009, setting up shop next to the Round Tower (Rundetaarn) in central Copenhagen, and his cheap and tasty alternative to the area's cafes has proved a hit. A hot dog costs 34kr, and you can choose between a range of organic dressings and even organic mash, a mix of potato and parsnip, on the side.

  • Vor Frue Kirke

    Vor Frue Kirke - Copenhagen
    • Contact:

    • +45 3337 6540
    • visit website
    • Location:

    • Nørregade 8
    • Nørregade
    • Map

    Description:

    Vor Frue Kirke (the Church of Our Lady) serves as Copenhagen's cathedral, and was completely rebuilt thrice (in 1316, 1738 and 1829), after being destroyed by fires. Architect C.F. Hansen's neo-classical facade contrasts greatly with the ornate interior, which features statues of Jesus and the Twelve Apostles by the world-famous Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. The museum in the crypt is fascinating and displays models and remains of the previous buildings. The Christmas concert by the Danish Boys Choir is a highlight of Denmark's festive season.

Day Note:

Spend Day 5 in the magical fantasy world of Tivoli Gardens, remembering of course to pay a visit to the replica of the Little Mermaid (the other one is temporarily in Shanghai for the 2010 Expo) on the lake, and for the children's ride 'The Flying Trunk', which takes you on a rollercoaster ride through 32 of Andersen's fairytales.

  • Tivoli Gardens

    Tivoli Gardens - Copenhagen
    • Contact:

    • +45 33 15 10 01
    • visit website
    • Location:

    • Vesterbrogade 3
    • Copenhagen,Copenhagen1630
    • Map

    • user rating

    Our Local Expert Says:

    Quite magical.

    Description:

    The world-famous Tivoli Pleasure Gardens first opened its doors on August 15, 1843. It's said that the park's founder, Georg Carstensen, said that Tivoli would never be completely finished and, staying true to that statement, a new ride is added each year. Another story is that Walt Disney was moved enough after visiting to attempt to purchase the gardens and after being refused, went on to design his own Disneyland in California.

    But Tivoli is more than just rides: In addition to the daily Pierrot pantomime shows, there are also regular classical concerts in the concert hall and free Friday night rock concerts with big international and local names performing on the Garden's open air stage. Tivoli is also famous for its extravagant firework displays, which take place a handful of times a year. In addition to its summer season, Tivoli's Christmas opening recreates a magical winter wonderland experience, while the most recent addition is the week-long Halloween season (which actually coincides more with the school autumn holiday than October 31).

Day Note:

The Bakkehus Museum is the former home of literary patrons the Rahbeks, who lived there from 1802-1830. Andersen was one of a number of literary figures who frequented the couple's home during that time, and the museum provides a picture of the creative life in Denmark at the time (a period known as Denmark's Golden Age).
One final stop is a must-see on any Andersen tour: a visit to the storyteller's grave, in Assistens Cemetery in Nørrebro. The stone is inscribed...read more

  • Bakkehuset

    Bakkehuset - Copenhagen

    Description:

    Bakkehuset is the museum of Danish literature and culture. Knud Lyne and his wife Kamma Rahbeck lived in this house, and eventually converted their home into a centre for the Danish cultural life of the time. The museum opened in 1925, and contains work from the Danish Golden Age period (1750-1850). Buses 18, 27 and 28 will take you there. Entry fee: DKK10 for adults, DKK1 for children.

  • Assistens Kirkegård

    Assistens Kirkegård - Copenhagen

    Description:

    Assistens churchyard is Copenhagen's biggest cemetery. It was originally a place where smaller churchyards would be located to, as well as being a churchyard for the poor. Today it is open to all citizens to use. Celebrities, such as H.C. Andersen, Søren Kierkegård, Jens Juel or Martin Andersen Nexø are all buried here. There are plans to turn the churchyard into a park, as the local people already use it as a place to meet with there loved ones or to sit in the sun in the summer.

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