Historical Cordoba in 2 Days

Description:

Eurostars Maimonides provides comfortable, three-star accommodation in the heart of Cordoba's Jewish Quarter. Most of its clean, luminous rooms enjoy views of the Mezquita, which is just under 100m away. The hotel is named after Maimonides, a medieval Jewish philosopher who was born in Cordoba. Its location is ideal for tourists planning to visit Cordoba's main attractions, such as the Jewish Quarter (World Heritage Site), synagogue, Arab baths, Roman bridge, and the Torre de Calahorra. The hotel's Patio Andaluz has an abundance of flowers and a relaxing fountain, which makes it a nice place to start or end the day with breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The restaurant's menu includes traditional Cordovan and Andalusian as well as international recipes, but if you want to get to know more of the city, there are a number of good restaurants down the street near the Palacio de Congresos, such as the well-known El Churrasco. Notable amenities include free Wi-Fi in all common areas and indoor parking.

Description:

Moriles is bustling with regulars at all hours of the day. This popular bar and restaurant serves superior quality traditional tapas in a relaxed environment. Everything is homemade and extremely flavorful, like the carne con tomate (stewed meat in a savory tomato-based sauce) and rabo de toro (stewed oxtail with french fries). Córdoba is known for its salmorejo, which is made of puréed tomatoes, breadcrumbs, garlic, vinegar, and olive oil, and you have to try it at Moriles. The first floor has simple chairs and tables, a diner-style black and white floor, and busy bartenders behind a long bar. You'll be surprised to find an incredibly peaceful, elegant dining room downstairs, which is decorated with pale yellow walls and warm, modern, wooden accents. If it's nice out, relax on the outdoor patio, which is just across the street from the gardens Jardines de Juan Carlos I.

Description:

Commissioned in 1328 by Alfonso XI, the Alcázar of the Christian monarchs is a fine example of military architecture. Ferdinand and Isabella governed Castile from this fortress on the Río Guadalquivir as they prepared to reconquer Granada, the last Moorish stronghold in Spain. Columbus journeyed here to fill Isabella's ears with his plans for discovery. And it was at the Alcázar that Ferdinand and Isabella bade Columbus farewell as he set out to chart unknown territory and discover what (for Europeans) was a new world.

On a less happy note, the Alcázar was the headquarters of the dreaded Spanish Inquisition for 3 centuries. A former Arab bathhouse in the basement was turned into a Counter-Reformation interrogation center.

Originally, the Alcázar (Fortress) was the abode of the Umayyad caliphs. Of their former palace, little remains except ruins. You can see some Moorish courtyards with ornamental basins and some cooling pools and baths. Also on view are some impressive Roman mosaics from the time of the Emperor Augustus. One of them has alternating geometrical motifs, and yet another depicts Polyphemus and Galatea. A Roman sarcophagus is representational of 2nd- and 3rd-century funereal art.

If they are open, you can climb the towers, Tower of the Lions (Torre de los Leones) and Tower of Homage (Torre de Homenaje). The Tower of the Lions contains intricately carved ogival ceilings that are some of the most notable examples of Gothic architecture in Andalusia. At the top a panoramic vista unfolds, taking in the Alcázar gardens, the river, Puente Romano, and Torre de la Calahorra.

The Gardens of the Alcázar display their Arabic origins, complete with terraces, pools, and cooling fountains. Cypresses stud the earth, as do towering palms and orange trees. The Cordobeses themselves use these magnificent gardens on summer days to escape the unbearable heat that descends on their city.

The centerpiece of the fortress, the Patio Morisco (Court of the Moors) is another lovely spot, with twin pools and an ivy-covered grotto, and pavement decorated with the coats of arms of León and Castile.

Description:

Alejandro and Carlos López Obrero operate out of this 250-year-old building. The street it's on is so enchanting you might want to come here even if you don't want to shop (check the information on Calleja de las Flores in "Seeing the Sights," earlier in this chapter, for details). This is the best store in Córdoba for embossed leather products. You can see artisans plying their trades; although most items must be custom-ordered, some ready-made pieces are for sale, including cigarette boxes, jewel cases, attaché cases, book and folio covers, and ottoman covers. It's open Monday to Friday 9am to 8pm and Saturday 9am to 2pm.

Description:

El Churrasco is an antique meson (inn) that has been converted into a wonderfully traditional restaurant adorned with cordobés paintings and decor throughout its interior arches indoor patios, and numerous dining rooms. Professional service and excellent food has been perfected over more than thirty-five years of service. Animated, informative waiters enthusiastically guide guests in choosing from a long menu and extensive wine list. Known for its high-quality chops and tenderloins cooked over an open fire, El Churrasco's signature meal is the churrasco cordobés (grilled pork tenderloin with Arab sauces). Fresh, in season ingredients add to the flavor of the gazpacho blanco de piñones (white gazpacho with pine nuts) and berenjenas crujientes con salmorejo cordobés (crunchy eggplant with a tasty tomato-based cream). The well-rounded menu also features a good selection of seafood, vegetarian mains, and desserts. Many consider this one of the best restaurants in Cordoba, and it's just a short walk from the Mezquita.

Our Local Expert Says:

This is a great place to start off your day with a cup of jo, especially if the weather is nice enough for you to relax on the terrace.

Description:

They make good coffee. It may seem obvious that a café makes good coffee, but not all of them do. There is a care for good client service, but it is not cheap if compared with other places in town where one can have coffee. You will find a strong presence of art nouveau, as its name indicates. http://cafegaudi.net/

Description:

In Córdoba you'll find one of Spain's three remaining pre-Inquisition synagogues, built in 1315 in the Barrio de la Judería (Jewish Quarter), 2 blocks west of the northern wall of the Mezquita. The synagogue is noted particularly for its stuccowork; the east wall contains a large orifice where the Tabernacle was once placed (inside, the scrolls of the Pentateuch were kept). Note the various adornments of mozárabe patterns and Hebrew inscriptions. You can still see the balcony where women were sequestered during worship. After the Jews were expelled from Spain, the synagogue was turned into a hospital, until it became a Catholic chapel in 1588. Feature image: Samu73/Flickr

Description:

Around the corner from the mosque and on the route to the Judería, this is one of the best-located restaurants in this ancient city. A series of little rooms, decorated in a typical Andalusian style, are spread over three floors. From May to October, tables are placed on the rooftop, meats such as chicken and pork are barbecued, and an Andalusian guitarist entertains. The hearty, regional fare includes combinations like cod cooked with raisins, pine nuts, and mussels that may date back to recipes from the days when the Arabs controlled Córdoba. The chef prepares excellent soups such as a typical Andalusian gazpacho or one made with fresh fish and shellfish. We are especially fond of the merluza (hake), prepared Cordobesa-style with sweet peppers, garlic, and onions, as well as the baked lamb, another specialty.

Description:

The Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture of the Mezquita speaks of the rich history of Christian and Muslim rule in Andalucía. Its construction began in the year 600 as a Visigoth church. It was later divided between the Muslims and the Christians after the Islamic conquest, and eventually, the Muslims bought it from the Christians and spent two hundred years building it as a mosque. The Mezquita was completed in the year 987 and later reconquered by the Christians, who built a gothic cathedral in its center. Córdoba was one of the most important cities for Muslims during the reign of al-Andalus, and the Mezquita was a symbol of power for Cordoba's strong government and economy. Stroll through beautiful rows of arches and relax in the Patio de Naranjos, a beautiful outdoor courtyard decorated with orange trees. This World Heritage Site is now the home of the Roman-Catholic diocese of Córdoba. Adult: 8€; ages 10-14: 4€; 10 and under: Free.

Description:

Within walking distance of the Mezquita in the Old Town, this restaurant is the most popular in Andalusia, and -- with the exception of La Almudaina -- the best in Córdoba. The place has a noise level no other restaurant here matches, but the skilled waiters manage to cope with all demands. Stop in the restaurant's popular bar for a predinner drink, then take the iron-railed stairs to the upper dining room, where a typical meal might include gazpacho, a main dish of chicken, then ice cream (often homemade pistachio), and sangria. An interesting variation on the typical gazpacho is an almond-flavored broth with apple pieces. In addition to Andalusian dishes, the chef offers both Sephardic and Mozarabic specialties, an example of the latter being monkfish prepared with pine nuts, currants, carrots, and cream. A local favorite is rabo de toro (stew made with the tail of a bull).

Description:

Córdoba's most prestigious flamenco club, Tablao Cardenal, hosts performances by internationally recognized flamenco artists including winners of the National Prize of the Art of Flamenco. Shows include many of the most traditional styles of Andalusian flamenco, including fandangos, soleás, bulerías, and alegrías. Even those who aren't flamenco fanatics will appreciate the superior talent and colorful, captivating performances of these outstanding singers, dancers, and guitar players. Entertainment is full of passion, and the service is friendly. Tablao Cardenal is located in the heart of the Jewish Quarter in a building with Mudéjar architecture built from 1512-1516, and it shouldn't be difficult to find, as it is next to the tourist office and just across from the Mezquita. This is an excellent choice for anyone in search of Spanish tradition and outstanding entertainment. Shows Tues-Sat 10:30pm. Price: 18€ (includes first drink). Feature image: StrudelMonkey/Flickr