La Colombe d'Or

Description:

• For over a decade, "The Golden Dove" has been St-Paul's most celebrated restaurant -- not for cutting-edge cuisine or exotic experiments, but for its remarkable art collection. You can dine amid Mirós, Picassos, Klees, Dufys, Utrillos, and Calders. In fair weather everyone tries for a seat on the terrace. You may begin with smoked salmon or foie gras from Landes if you've recently won at the casino. If not, you can count on a soup made with fresh seasonal vegetables. The best fish dishes are poached sea bass with mousseline sauce, and sea wolf baked with fennel. Tender beef comes with gratin dauphinois (potatoes), or you may prefer lamb from Sisteron. A classic finish to any meal is a soufflé flambé au Grand-Marnier.

  La Colombe also runs several guest rooms (16 doubles, 10 suites) in an original 16th-century stone house, with two wings added in the 1950s, one of which stretches into the garden next to the pool. Some units have exposed stone and ceiling beams; all are comfortable, with air-conditioning, minibars, and TVs. Prices are 220€ to 320€ ($286-$416) for a double, 320€ ($416) for a suite.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010