Edinburgh Transportation

Planning a Trip

Edinburgh and Glasgow, separated by less than 80km (50 miles), are the primary cities of Scotland and significant metropolises in the United Kingdom, too. Each has an increasingly busy international airport and a city center railway terminal that regularly receives trains traveling north from London, other cities in England, and from places elsewhere in Scotland.

Although Scotland likes to think of itself as a separate country, the central United Kingdom government in London regulates all issues regarding international visitors and immigrants, and the same rules apply to travel to Scotland as to traveling in any part of England, Wales, and Northern Ireland.

Online Traveler's Toolbox

• Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
• Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com; and www.airlinequality.com)
• Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
• Maps (www.mapquest.com)
• Subway Navigator (www.subwaynavigator.com)
• Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
• Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.smartraveller.gov.au)
• Universal Currency Converter (www.oanda.com)
• Weather (www.intellicast.com; and www.weather.com)

Getting There

By Plane

Carriers that fly directly to Edinburgh and Glasgow from the U.S. have changed over the past few years. For example, in 2006, American Airlines unexpectedly announced it would terminate its summer service from Chicago to Glasgow. Most long-haul flights arrive and depart from Glasgow's airport.

London, however, accepts flights from all corners of the globe. Internally, British Airways (tel. 800/247-9297, or 0870/850-9850 in the U.K.; www.ba.com) offers frequent nonstop flights daily from London's Heathrow Airport to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. BMI (formerly British Midland; tel. 0870/607-0555; www.flybmi.com) also flies from Heathrow to both Edinburgh and Glasgow. It is a member of the international "Star Alliance," which includes carriers such as Air Canada, Air New Zealand, United, and US Airways. RyanAir (tel. 0871/246-0000; www.ryanair.com) is a budget airline that flies from Stansted outside London to Prestwick south of Glasgow.

By Car

If you're driving north to Scotland from England, it's fastest to take the M1 motorway north from London. You can reach M1 by driving to the ring road from any point in the British capital. Southeast of Leeds, you'll need to connect with A1 (not a motorway), which you take north to Scotch Corner. Here M1 resumes, ending south of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. Then you can take A696, which becomes A68, for its final run north into Edinburgh.

If you're in the west of England, go north along M5, which begins at Exeter (Devon). Eventually this will merge with M6. Continue north on M6 until you reach a point north of Carlisle. From Carlisle, cross into Scotland near Gretna Green. Continue north along A74 via Moffat. The A74 soon becomes the M74 heading toward Glasgow. If your goal is Edinburgh, not Glasgow, various roads will take you east to the Scottish capital, including M8, which goes part of the way, as do A702, A70, and A71 (all these routes are well signposted).

By Train or Bus

From England, two main rail lines link London to Scotland. The most popular and fastest route is King's Cross Station in London to Edinburgh, going by way of Newcastle. Trains cross from England into Scotland at Berwick-upon-Tweed. If you're going via the west coast, trains leave Euston Station in London for Glasgow, by way of Carlisle. Most of these trains take at least 5 hours to reach Glasgow.

The journey from London to Glasgow and Edinburgh by bus can take up to 12 hours although direct buses can make the trip in less than 10 hours. Nevertheless, it'll get you there for about £45 ($90) standard round-trip fare. National Express (tel. 0870/580-8080; www.nationalexpress.com) runs buses daily (typically 9:30am, noon, and 11pm for direct service) from London's Victoria Coach Station to Edinburgh's Bus Station near St. Andrew Square; while direct buses for Glasgow's Buchanan Street Bus Station, about 2 blocks north of the Queen Street Station on North Hanover Street (tel. 0870-608-2608), leave London's Victoria Coach Station at 9am and 11:30pm. Scottish CityLink (tel. 0870/550-5050; www.citylink.co.uk) also has frequent bus service to and from Edinburgh, with a standard one-way ticket costing £5 ($10).

Getting Around

Because of its narrow lanes, wynds, and closes, you can only honestly explore Old Town in any depth on foot. Edinburgh is fairly convenient for the visitor who likes to walk, as many of the attractions are on or near the Royal Mile and close to one of the major streets of New Town.

By Bus

Until the new trams are completed , the city's rather numerous buses will continue to provide the chief method of public transportation in Edinburgh. Fares depend on the distance traveled, with the adult one-way (single) minimum fare of £1.10 ($2.20) covering the principal Edinburgh districts. If you plan multiple trips in 1 day, purchase a Day Ticket that allows unlimited travel on city buses for 1 day at a cost of £2.50 ($5) adults. Children 5 to 15 are charged a flat rate of 60p ($1.20), but kids 13 to 15 are expected to carry a teen card (available in bus Travelshops -- see below) as proof of age. Child Day Tickets cost £2 ($4). Children 4 and under ride free. Be advised that bus drivers will not make change, so carry the correct amount in coins or expect to pay more. At Travelshops, 1-week Ridacard passes, which allow unlimited travel on buses, can be purchased for £13 ($26) adults, £11 ($22) students, and £9 ($18) juniors.

Also the tourist buses that terminate at Waverley Bridge offer hop-on, hop-off at any of their stops on the set circuit of primarily Old and New towns. Tickets -- £10 ($20) for adults; £4 ($8) for children -- can be used for 24 hours (although the buses' last journeys are made in the early evening).

Visitors can find advance tickets and further information in the city center at the Waverley Bridge Travelshop, Waverley Bridge, open Monday to Saturday 8:15am to 6pm and Sunday 9:30am to 5:15pm, or at 27 Hanover Street Travelshop, open Monday to Saturday 8:15am to 6pm. For details on fares and timetables, call tel. 0131/555-6363, or log on to www.lothianbuses.co.uk.

As I write, Edinburgh is constructing a new tram system. Initially, it will take passengers up or down Princes Street and Leith Walk. Eventually, it will cross Leith into Newhaven and Granton, circling back to Haymarket, with a spur running west to the airport. None of it is expected to be operational until 2011, and until then bus routes along the streets where track is being laid will be disrupted.

By Taxi

You can hail a "fast black" taxi similar to those in London, or pick one up at a taxi stand. Fares start at around £1.50 ($3) in the day, and a typical trek across town might cost about £7 ($14). Taxi ranks are at High Street near North Bridge, Waverley and Haymarket stations, Hanover Street, North Street, Andrew Street, and Lauriston Place. Fares are displayed in the front of the taxi and charges are posted, including extra fees for night drivers or destinations outside the city limits. You can also call a taxi. Try City Cabs at tel. 0131/228-1211 or Central Taxis at tel. 0131/229-2468.

By Car

Unless absolutely necessary, I suggest that you simply don't drive in Edinburgh -- it can prove to be a tricky and frustrating business, even for natives. Driving on the left, traffic-calming systems, roundabouts, one-way streets, narrow and cobbled roads, dedicated bus lanes, and construction on the new tram are all good reasons to forego the automobile. Parking is expensive and also can be difficult to find. Some zones are marked PERMIT HOLDERS ONLY, meaning your vehicle will be towed if you have no permit. A double yellow line along the curb indicates no parking at any time. A single yellow line along the curb indicates restrictions, too, so be sure and read the signs on what the limitations are. Major car parks (parking lots) are at Castle Terrace (near Edinburgh Castle), Waverley Station, and at St. James Centre (close to the east end of Princes St.).

You may want a rental car for touring the countryside or for heading onward. Many agencies grant discounts to those who reserve in advance. Most will accept your foreign driver's license, provided you've held it for more than a year and are over 21. Major car-rental companies have offices at the Edinburgh airport should you want to rent a car on the spot. In the city, try Avis on West Park Place near Haymarket Station (tel. 0870/153-9103), Hertz on Picardy Place (tel. 0870/864-0013), or Thrifty at 42 Haymarket Terrace (tel. 0131/337-1319).

By Bicycle

Bicycles are more common in Edinburgh than in Glasgow. Nevertheless, biking is probably a good idea only for visitors in good shape, as the city has several steep hills and the streets are often cobbled. Try Rent-a-Bike Edinburgh, 29 Blackfriars St., near High Street (tel. 0131/556-5560; www.cyclescotland.co.uk; bus: 35). Depending on the type of bike, charges range from £10 to £15 ($20-$30) per day or up to £70 ($140) for the week. Part-day hires are possible. A credit card imprint will be taken as security. The same company runs Scottish Cycle Safaris, which organizes tours in the city and across Scotland. They can equip you for excursions, and because they have branches in places such as Oban, Inverness, and Skye, you can drop off your bike and equipment there if that is more convenient.

Look Both Ways!

Remember, you're in Great Britain, and cars drive on the left. So if you're crossing, traffic closest to you approaches from the right. Always look both ways before stepping off a curb. Lots of new arrivals practically commit suicide crossing the street because they forget which way to look for traffic.