Lovers in Florence

Our Local Expert Says:

"Neptune Fountain was not well-liked by most Florentines when it was first displayed."

Description:

At the end of Via dei Calzaiuoli, Piazza della Signoria welcomes you into it's arms.  This 13th century piazza houses the Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi Gallery, and the replica of the David by Michelangelo.  Daily tourist groups travel to and fro, capturing photos of every inch of Piazza della Signoria.  As a common meeting place for locals, there is much history jammed into this L-shaped meeting point.  The Fountain of Neptune sits right in front of the very spot Girolamo Savonrola was burned at the stake for burning some of Florence's best art and literature.  Thus after the Palazzo Vecchio was constructed it grew as the political center for Florence.  Piazza della Signoria is lined with cafes, restaurants and gelaterias.  Enjoy a late afternoon beer or a evening walk through this mesmerizing Piazza della Signoria.

Description:

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli is quite small but great for a quick lunch, conveniently located next to the Baptistery and the Duomo. It is always very crowded: lots of locals stop by for a sandwich and a glass of red wine standing at the counter, but there is seating in the basement if its a more substantial meal you're after. Nuvoli is also a fiaschetteria - a wine bar that sells flasks, dealing mostly in local vintages. The menu features plenty of crostini and bruschette, four or five different soups and pasta dishes, seasonal vegetables and typical Tuscan meat courses such as roasted pork, tripe and beef stew… all at reasonable prices!

Description:

Designed by Giotto, the bell tower to the right of Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral was begun by the artist in 1334 but continued by Andrea Pisano (who modified part of the design) following Giotto's death in 1337. Francesco Talenti finally completed it in 1359. Originally the tower was linked to the Duomo via a passageway situated at the level of the first cornice but this was demolished before 1437. Reliefs carved on the side where the passageway once existed are later works by Luca della Robbia; Andrea Pisano's original stone reliefs can be seen in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The concepts of universal order and redemption are recurrent themes; hexagonal tiles on the tower's lower level (now replaced by copies) portray scenes from daily human life whilst diamond-shaped reliefs on the upper level illustrate more ethereal subjects in the form of the Planets, Virtue, Liberal Arts and the Sacraments. There's no lift, but climbing the 414 steps to the top of the 85m tower is well worth the effort!

Description:

Trattoria Marione is an authentic old style trattoria in the heart of Florence, just off the elegant via Tornabuoni. It is always crowded and quite often there is a line out the door. Local home style cooking is the trademark of the place, with typical dishes such as Crostini Toscani. They specialize in traditional bread soups like Ribollita and Pappa al Pomodoro, but the Farro soup (an antique grain popular in the Tuscan countryside) and classic mixed boiled and roasted meats are also particularly tasty. Friendly service and great food at reasonable prices!

Our Local Expert Says:

"You can see the hill town Fiesole and end of the Appennine Mountains from the Piazzale."

Description:

The vista which one can see the whole valley of Florence and of the surrounding hills is a must see.  The climb up is rewarding, the view is breathtaking. There are buses available to take you to Piazzale Michelangelo. Tourists, tourist groups and tour buses all congregate at this panoramic view.  Vendors set up early in the morning with cool beverages for the parched tourists and souvenirs for the eager shoppers. A sunset visit is for the romantics, bringing a wine bottle and gazing at the Florentine sky as it ends another day. There is never a bad time to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there is always something to see from this height

Our Local Expert Says:

Stop by around 5pm and hear the monks chant in the crypt.

Description:

High atop a hill, its gleaming white-and-green facade visible from the valley below, San Miniato is one of the few ancient churches of Florence to survive the centuries virtually intact. San Miniato was an eastern Christian who settled in Florence and was martyred during Emperor Decius's persecutions in A.D. 250. The legend goes that the decapitated saint picked up his head, walked across the river, climbed up the hillside, and didn't lie down to die until he reached this spot. He and other Christians were buried here, and a shrine was raised on the site as early as the 4th century.

The current building began to take shape in 1013, under the auspices of the powerful Arte di Calimala guild, whose symbol, a bronze eagle clutching a bale of wool, perches atop the facade. The Romanesque facade is a particularly gorgeous bit of white Carrara and green Prato marble inlay. Above the central window is a 13th-century mosaic of Christ Between the Madonna and St. Miniato (a theme repeated in a slightly later mosaic filling the apse inside).

The interior has a few Renaissance additions, but they blend in well with the overall medieval aspect -- an airy, stony space with a raised choir at one end, painted wooden trusses on the ceiling, and tombs interspersed with inlaid marble symbols of the zodiac paving the floor.

Below the choir is an 11th-century crypt with small frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi. Off to the right of the raised choir is the sacristy, which Spinello Aretino covered in 1387 with cartoonish yet elegant frescoes depicting the Life of St. Benedict. Off the left aisle of the nave is 15th-century Cappella del Cardinale del Portogallo, a brilliant collaborative effort by Renaissance artists built to honor young Portuguese humanist Cardinal Jacopo di Lusitania, who was sent to study in Perugia but died an untimely death at 25 in Florence. Brunelleschi's student Antonio Manetti started the chapel in 1460 but soon died, and Antonio Rossellino finished the architecture and carving by 1466. Luca della Robbia provided the glazed terra-cotta dome, a cubic landscape set with tondi of the four Virtues surrounding the Holy Spirit to symbolize the young scholar's devotion to the church and to humanist philosophy. It stands as one of della Robbia's masterpieces of color and classical ideals. The unfinished bell tower seen from the outside was designed by Baccio d'Agnolo. In 1530 the combined troops of Charles V and Medici Pope Clement VII, who had recently reconciled with each other, lay siege to the newly declared Republic of Florence in an attempt to reinstate the Medici dukes. San Miniato al Monte was one of the prime fortifications, and an artilleryman named Lapo was stationed up in the tower with two small cannons -- he was basically bait, stuck there to draw the fire of the enemy where it would do little harm. The man in charge of the defenses was Michelangelo, who, the authorities figured, was so good at everything else, why not military fortifications? After throwing up dirt ramparts and cobbling together defensible walls out of oak timbers, Michelangelo helped poor Lapo out by devising an ingenious way to protect the tower: He hung mattresses down the sides to absorb the shock of the cannonballs fired at it and left the tower (and, more important, Lapo) still standing.

The siege was eventually successful, however, and the Florentine Republic fell, but while it lasted, Michelangelo spent his day up here and referred to the church of San Salvatore al Monte just below as "my pretty country maid." It's a simple 1400 church built by Cronaca, with a Giovanni della Robbia Deposition and a Neri di Bicci Pietà inside.

Description:

This little enoteca off the beaten path is just the place for people looking to get away from those crowded Piazze(squares).  It is located in a tiny piazza called Piazza dei Rossi.  It has a homey feeling and welcoming atmosphere. The staff is very helpful and kind. If you don't know what you type of wine to try, they will suggest something perfect for you. And to munch on from a long morning of walking, there is an array of cheese plates, salumi, and caprese. In addition, there are typical panini and schiachiatte made with fresh ingredients with superb flavor to add to the experience.  They provide a hearty list of wines from small producers throughout Italy. You will find wines in this shop that you won't find anywhere else in Florence.

Description:

il Bovaro opened on January 3rd, 2000.  It is the first of its kind, having a microbrewery right inside the restaurant.  Located right outside Porta San Frediano(one of the doors to the old city), the people that frequent this birreria are off all ages.  From the carpaccio to the bruchette, you will always leave this place satisfied.  As for the beer, they make a special brew.  The Riki is the birra chiara, then there is Axel, birra chiara doppio malto(double malt) and finally the big one, the Titan, birra rossa.  Ask the waitstaff which they recommend and enjoy an evening outside the city walls. 

Description:

Since 1872, this traditional café-bar has served magnificent hot chocolate and exquisite cocktails and aperitifs to an appreciative public. In summer, order rolls, salads, light snacks and delicious home-made desserts to be enjoyed on its huge terrace opposite the Palazzo Vecchio in one of the city's most beautiful squares. This spot is the perfect place for people watching and stunning views of the artistic sculptures on Piazza della Signoria. Although chocolate is the theme here, there is also coffee and wine available.

Our Local Expert Says:

"You can buy fruit at a low, low price."

Description:

Located in Piazza Ghiberti, Mercato Sant' Ambrogio is a hidden gem of Florence. The mornings bring the fresh fruit and vegetables stands surrounding the market and paired with the scent of fresh flowers that awaken the senses. Mercato Sant' Ambrogio is opened for business from 7am to 2pm every day except Sunday. Walking into the market, which was built in 1860's, you will find market explode with sounds of dishes clattering from one of the many restaurants, the chit chat of Italian banter and of course the smells. Meat, cheese, wine, fresh herbs, you name it you can smell it.  Although Mercato Sant' Ambrogio isn't as big and glorified as the Mercato Centrale, it is all about your preference. Having a small compact market like Mercato Sant' Ambrogio can bring you closer to the Italian lifestyle.

Description:

You can dine out on the sidewalk in nice weather, or sit on the benches at tiny wooden tables inside to taste the excellent pizzalike crostini here. Start with the pappa al pomodoro or gnocchi with broccoli rabe and sausage. The crostoni are divided by cheese -- mozzarella, sharp pecorino, creamy goat-cheese caprino -- along with a list of the toppings to accompany them. My favorite is caprino con prosciutto arrosto e pomodori secchi (with goat cheese, roasted prosciutto, and sun-dried tomatoes). The wine is a key part of the meal; the list draws from the more interesting vineyards in Tuscany and beyond. This place is a bit out-of-the-way but worth the trip.

Description:

The Giardino dell'Iris is a botanical garden that specializes in the beautiful Iris flower species, which is the symbol of Florence. The garden has been open to the public since 1954 and is owned by the Società Italiana dell'Iris. It is located on the corner of Viale dei Colli and Piazzale Michelangelo and open daily without charge from May 2-20 every year. An annual competition, International Iris Show is held here, where around 1500 species of the flowers are displayed.  There is a relaxing pond in the garden with a thriving aquatic life. The botanical gardens provide a scenic view of historic Florence and the surrounding areas. The garden is open with seasonal hours, so you must call ahead before you venture there.

Description:

This is a wonderful way of discovering the traditional district of San Niccolo. The restaurant serves classic local dishes and flavours. You should try unusual dishes such as budelline in umido intestines), tongue, cimalino in salsa verde or cavolo verzo rifatto (savoy cabbage). Dishes such as pappa al pomodoro (bread soup with tomato) or spezzatino ai porcini (mushroom stew) are also excellent. Good Tuscan wine is available. This fascinating ancient osteria is located in a crypt which dates back to the 11th century, and is at the back of the Chiesa di San Niccolo. You only have to go up the stairs on the inside of the establishment to visit the church.

Our Local Expert Says:

"The jewelry is superb and really expensive on the Ponte Vecchio. Grab your camera and catch the Tuscan Hills alive and rolling beyond the city center."

Description:

You can't miss the most recognizable landmark of Florence, the Ponte Vecchio.  Constructed in 1345, the Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge still standing in Florence, hence the name.  The multicolored structure bridge was first home to butcher shops. As the noble bankers would cross the Arno river to their offices, there was a rancid smell of pigs blood and rotted meat which extremely offended them.  In an effort to improve the area, the Medici stepped in and ordered the lower class shopkeepers out and moved goldsmiths and diamond-cutters in. Ponte Vecchio is the only bridge that escaped the bombing by the Germans in WWII.  Today, now a pedestrian bridge, the shops shimmer and shine with necklaces, rings and charms of the most expensive kind.  Tourists can enjoy an early morning walk over the bridge before the shops open or at sunset where lovers stare at the horizon as musicians sing and be merry.

Description:

A wine bar full of warmth and the scents of the seasons, Coquinarius has a small menu of different types of bruschette for antipasti, tasty meats and fish.  Salads are a forte here; creative choices include toppings such as sun-dried tomatoes, eggplant, sunflower seeds, zucchini flowers or pear. This elegant and striking enoteca that has a wide range of wines from Italy, California, Argentina, Austria and Chile.   The camerieri(waitstaff) are very kind and full of life.  It is a great place to sit for the afternoon, bring a book, enjoy the chiacchiere(chatter) of the other patrons, or get lost in the glass of wine.  Wines are served by the glass or bottle in this relaxed, inexpensive experience of true Italian style.  Even though it is located right smack dab in the city center where there are tons of tourist traffic, however you will find the place filled with Florentines enjoying an afternoon bite at this venue.

Our Local Expert Says:

"A peaceful place to read a book or write away from the bustle of the center."

Description:

Giardino dell'Orticoltura was built by Giacomo Roster in 1879 for the Società Toscana di Orticoltura (the Tuscan Horticultural Society), this impressive steel and glass pavilion is used to display the flowers and plants that are grown each year. Marquis Pietro Torrigiani, the chief of the Georgofili Academia, founded the Tuscan society of Horticultural in 1859. Since then, the Florentines come to admire the flowers and plants grown during the month of April where there are exhibitions.  The grounds surrounding the pavilion are very serene with a playground for the children on a fall day. 

Description:

This small and stylish wine bar/restaurant is located on the ground floor of the ancient Marquises Antinori family palace, designed by Giuliano da Maiano in 1461. The family has been involved in wine making for six centuries, producing wines now well known all over the world. All the wines and most of the ingredients used in the restaurant come from the Antinori's estates in Tuscany and Umbria. This a wine lovers dream, you can try their products at the counter, or enjoy them with a delicious Tuscan meal that is the perfect blend of authentic traditional and modern gourmet. The atmosphere is elegant, and all wines are also served by the glass.

Description:

Teatro del Sale is a members-only club, which has meeting rooms, a dining area, and a theatre. The establishment is located within a 14th century building that was once a food cellar. People come here to relax, have meals, read newspapers and magazines and to hold and attend workshops, lectures, concerts and plays. Membership fees are quite low; besides, this place is ideal for locals who want to spend some time with friends and family members.