Romantic Florence

Description:

Though Michelangelo Buonarroti never actually lived in this modest palazzo, he did own the property and left it to his nephew Lionardo. Lionardo named his own son after his famous uncle, and this younger Michelangelo became very devoted to the memory of his namesake, converting the house into a museum and hiring artists to fill the place with frescoes honoring the genius of his great uncle.

The good stuff is upstairs, starting with a display case regularly rotating pages from the museum's collection of original drawings. In the first room off the landing are Michelangelo's earliest sculptures: the Madonna of the Steps, carved before 1492 when he was a 15- or 16-year-old student in the Medici sculpture garden. A few months later, the child prodigy was already finished carving another marble, a confused tangle of bodies known as the Battle of the Centaurs and Lapiths. The sculptural ideals that were to mark his entire career are already evident here: a fascination with the male body to the point of ignoring the figures themselves in pursuit of muscular torsion and the use of rough "unfinished" marble to speak sculptural volumes.

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Piazza del Duomo is one of the most famous landmarks in Florence. Truly an architectural piece of beauty, it encompasses the art and history of medieval Italy, through its sheer design. A visit to this city is not complete without visiting the piazza's cathedral 'Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore' whose dome dominates the skyline. It is no wonder that tourists are spellbound and spend hours trying to capture these images for eternity.

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Designed by Giotto, the bell tower to the right of Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral was begun by the artist in 1334 but continued by Andrea Pisano (who modified part of the design) following Giotto's death in 1337. Francesco Talenti finally completed it in 1359. Originally the tower was linked to the Duomo via a passageway situated at the level of the first cornice but this was demolished before 1437. Reliefs carved on the side where the passageway once existed are later works by Luca della Robbia; Andrea Pisano's original stone reliefs can be seen in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The concepts of universal order and redemption are recurrent themes; hexagonal tiles on the tower's lower level (now replaced by copies) portray scenes from daily human life whilst diamond-shaped reliefs on the upper level illustrate more ethereal subjects in the form of the Planets, Virtue, Liberal Arts and the Sacraments. There's no lift, but climbing the 414 steps to the top of the 85m tower is well worth the effort!

Description:

This is one of Florence's best-loved restaurants. After 65 years of history it still has the reputation with which it began: good Tuscan cooking with few allowances for current fashion. It has all the classic dishes as well as some gems like the controfiletto with balsamic vinegar or the fisherman's scampi. The wine cellar has all the big labels of Tuscany and aged wines from good years. In the simple and elegant room guests quickly feel at ease thanks to the friendly and professional staff.

Description:

Hotel Continentale overlooks the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio which exudes the vibrant and seductive style of the '50s with glam. A boutique hotel that sits close to the attractions the city has to offer. The Ferragamo family owns this exsquiste hotel offering its guests an excess of services such as free internet, garage service, fitness and wellness area with a sauna to relax in. Guests benefit from the customized assistance of a pre-arrival Concierge service and are welcomed by special privileges at Lungarno Details Store, Borgo San Jacopo Ristorante, The Fusion Bar & Restaurant as well as Lounge Bar Lungarno. Experience the gorgeous views from the top of a medieval tower where you can imagine how life would've been back when the Medici family ran the city.

Description:

This small but interesting museum is housed in the ancient refectory of the Augustinian Church of Santo Spirito. Decorated with frescoes by Andrea Orcagna depicting the Last Supper and the Crucifixion, the museum takes its name after Salvatore Romano, a collector and antique dealer who donated his sculptures to Florence's City Council. Featuring works of Tino da Camaino, Donatello, Jacopo della Quercia and others, the collection includes antique furnishings, detached frescoes, architectural reliefs and sculptures dating from Romanesque to Renaissance ages. - Maria Frullini

Description:

The Museo degli Argenti in Palazzo Pitti encompasses the magnificent rooms covered with frescoes that were once the summer apartment of the Grand Dukes . The first room on the ground floor , where the ceiling fresco by Angelo Michele Colonna , is the scene of Jupiter descending from Olympus to give to the flags of the Medici power. Augustine Mitelli are the decorations on the walls . The next room has frescoes and the Triumph of Alexander, is the work of Colonna and Mitelli , as well as the adjoining room of the Throne , which are painted the allegorical figures of the Force, the Justice and Time. The largest and most luxurious room , once the audience hall , is decorated with large frescoes on the occasion of the marriage of Ferdinand II and Vittoria della Rovere , celebrated in 1635 . Amongst the most significant pieces are the stone vases (which belonged to Lorenzo the Magnificent), German ivories from the 17th century, a vase made from lapis lazuli by Buonalenti and the jewels of the Salzburg Prince-Bishops. The whole place reverberates with Medici history from the time of Lorenzo the Magnificent.
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Description:

This 17th-century villa stands on the Imperial Hill, so called because of its connections with the imperial D'Asburgo family through the Grand Duchess Maria Magdalena, wife of Cosimo II de'Medici and sister of the Emperor Ferdinand II. The original building designed by Parigi was altered during the 18th and 19th centuries by the designs of Paoletti, Poccianti and Cacialli, who created a neo-classical style which was particularly welcomed by the Grand Duchess. In the second half of the 19th century it was used as an educational centre. Now under state control, only some ground floor rooms of the villa may be visited, namely those containing paintings by Matteo Roselli and other 17th-century Florentine painters, which depict subjects chosen by the Grand Duchess D'Asburgo. On the top floor, however, a room of Albertolli statues may also be visited. Please telephone for an appointment.

Description:

The Calza convent, located near the Porta Romana, has been inhabited by Ingesuati Brothers since its foundation, whose habits were once compared to stockings, calze in Italian, because of their length. Some of the convent can be visited, including the ancient refectory, with a fresco painted by Franciabigio in 1514, depicting the Last Supper. Visits by reservation only.

Our Local Expert Says:

A great place to spend an afternoon away from the busy tourist attractions of the historical center, this working monastery is an absolute jewel. Tours may or may not be in English but the monastery speaks for itself.

Description:

Both architecturally and artistically unique, this monastery commissioned in 1342 by Niccolò Acciaioli, viceroy of the Kingdom of Naples, was originally home to Carthusian monks. Today Cistercian monks (who have lived here since 1958) give visitors a guided tour of the complex's treasures. The tour winds its way through the monastery, taking in the Chiostrino dei Monaci e il Capitolo, a cloister featuring Albertinelli's 1506 work, "The Crucifixion." Other architectural works, completed in different periods, make up the Certosa complex. Free admission.

Description:

As indicated by the name, you can enjoy an intimate evening in this small restaurant which is popular with the people of Florence. First courses might include spaghetti with crabmeat, taglierini with porcini mushrooms with sage, sheets of freshly-made puff-pastry with tails of mazzancolle with red pepper. For the second courses, side of veal white truffle, rabbit with prunes, large scampi with tarragon. The desserts are all home-made and are particularly good. The menu of regional wines is also very good. Warm and elegantly decorated surroundings provide the perfect context for the unobtrusive service.

Description:

There are only the best products here, such as the work of Andrea Slitti, world champion of artistic chocolate-making. The menu is made up of the best typical dishes of different traditions of cuisine. Oysters, soups, fish carpaccio, and plates of charcuterie and cheeses. The desserts are remarkable: after the chocolates, the Orient Express and coffee flavored puddings stand out. Decorated with bamboo and wood in pastel colours, the atmosphere is modern and very comfortable.

Description:

Hotel Continentale overlooks the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio which exudes the vibrant and seductive style of the '50s with glam. A boutique hotel that sits close to the attractions the city has to offer. The Ferragamo family owns this exsquiste hotel offering its guests an excess of services such as free internet, garage service, fitness and wellness area with a sauna to relax in. Guests benefit from the customized assistance of a pre-arrival Concierge service and are welcomed by special privileges at Lungarno Details Store, Borgo San Jacopo Ristorante, The Fusion Bar & Restaurant as well as Lounge Bar Lungarno. Experience the gorgeous views from the top of a medieval tower where you can imagine how life would've been back when the Medici family ran the city.

Description:

The Palazzo Medici-Riccardi was built by Michelozzo in 1444 for Cosimo de' Medici il Vecchio; it's the prototype Florentine palazzo, on which the more overbearing Strozzi and Pitti palaces were later modeled. It remained the Medici private home until Cosimo I more officially declared his power as duke by moving to the city's traditional civic brain center, the Palazzo Vecchio. A door off the right of the entrance courtyard leads up a staircase to the Cappella dei Magi, the oldest chapel to survive from a private Florentine palace; its walls are covered with gorgeously dense and colorful Benozzo Gozzoli frescoes (1459-63). Rich as tapestries, the walls depict an extended Journey of the Magi to see the Christ child, who's being adored by Mary in the altarpiece. Gozzoli is at his decorative best here, inheriting an attention to minute detail in plants and animals from his old teacher Fra' Angelico.

Our Local Expert Says:

David is the biggest and the most famous spectacle to see in the Accademia.

Description:

The Accademia is most famous for the David by Michelangelo but did you know there are many paintings in the museum to see as well? As you enter, the first long hall is devoted to Michelangelo and, though you pass his Slaves and the entrance to the painting gallery, most people are drawn down to the far end, a room dominated by the most famous sculpture in the world: Michelangelo's David . Michelangelo, only 29 years old, finished in 1504 a Goliath-size David for the city of Florence. Michelangelo's most fascinating works, the four famous nonfiniti ("unfinished") Slaves. These statues symbolize Michelangelo's theory that sculpture is an "art that takes away superfluous material." The wait to see the David can be up to an hour if you don't reserve ahead. I suggest getting there before the museum opens in the morning or an hour or two before closing time. read more

Description:

Take break from a long day of museums and mercatos at Cipolla Rossa Osteria. Just a few blocks from Piazza del Duomo , this festive restaurant features brightly colored chairs and alfresco walls depicting Florentine alleyways. Choose from a menu of Tuscan specialties and Italian favorites, such as Crositini Toscani and Risotto alla Verdure, or try a little bit of everything with their "tasting" menu a for a truly Italian culinary experience.

Description:

Hotel Continentale overlooks the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio which exudes the vibrant and seductive style of the '50s with glam. A boutique hotel that sits close to the attractions the city has to offer. The Ferragamo family owns this exsquiste hotel offering its guests an excess of services such as free internet, garage service, fitness and wellness area with a sauna to relax in. Guests benefit from the customized assistance of a pre-arrival Concierge service and are welcomed by special privileges at Lungarno Details Store, Borgo San Jacopo Ristorante, The Fusion Bar & Restaurant as well as Lounge Bar Lungarno. Experience the gorgeous views from the top of a medieval tower where you can imagine how life would've been back when the Medici family ran the city.

Description:

Santa Maria del Carmine is best known for the Brancacci Chapel by Masaccio, Masolino and finished by Filippino Lippi. Santa Maria del Carmine is located in the Oltrarno, on the other side of the river. Like Florentine facades, this one is still unfinished. From the outside it looks like a wall but as you walk, in the enchantment flows over you. The crowds will be surrounding the famous Brancacci Chapel, so explore the rest of the church. There are many other chapels with pieces of work that are rare and preserved. Once you reach the Brancacci Chapel, you will notice the different styles of painting these biblical images. Masaccio's depiction of Adam and Eve's expulsion from Paradise is a grim and depressing viewpoint of how they felt. It captures sorrow and sadness. Masolino's Temptation of Adam and Eve, brought a more hopeful look to their faces. Moreso that they felt invincible and could pass through the Paradise gates even though they tried the forbidden apple.

Our Local Expert Says:

Ghirlandaio's piece of St. Jerome in his study is displyed across the nave.

Description:

Founded in 1256 by the Umiliati, a wool-weaving sect of the Benedictines whose trade helped establish this area as a textile district, the present Ognissanti was rebuilt by its new Franciscan owners in the 17th century. It has the earliest baroque facade in Florence, designed by Matteo Nigetti in 1627 and rebuilt in travertine in 1872.

Ognissanti was the parish church of the Vespucci family, agents of the Medici bank in Seville. A young Domenico Ghirlandaio portrayed several of the family members in his Madonna della Misericordia (1470) on the second altar to the right. The lady under the Madonna's left hand may be Simonetta Vespucci, renowned beauty of her age, mistress of Giuliano de' Medici (Lorenzo's brother), and the possible model for Venus in Botticelli's Birth of Venus. The young man with black hair to the Madonna's right is said to be Amerigo Vespucci (1454-1512), whose letters about exploring the New World in 1499 and again from 1501 to 1502 would become so popular that a cartographer used a corruption of Amerigo's name on an influential set of maps to describe the newly discovered continent. Sorry, Columbus. The family tombstone (America's namesake rests in peace underneath)...

Description:

Of all Florence's major churches, the home of the Dominicans is the only one with an original facade that matches its era of greatest importance. The lower Romanesque half was started in the 14th century by architect Fra' Jacopo Talenti, who had just finished building the church itself (started in 1246). Leon Battista Alberti finished the facade, adding a classically inspired Renaissance top that not only went seamlessly with the lower half but also created a Cartesian plane of perfect geometry.

The church's interior underwent a massive restoration in the late 1990s, returning Giotto's restored Crucifix to pride of place, hanging in the nave's center -- and becoming the first church in Florence to charge admission. Against the second pillar on the left of the nave is the pulpit from which Galileo was denounced for his heretical theory that Earth revolved around the sun. Just past the pulpit, on the left wall, is Masaccio's Trinità (ca. 1428), the first painting ever to use perfect linear mathematical perspective. Florentine citizens and artists flooded in to see the fresco when it was unveiled, many remarking in awe that the coffered ceiling seemed to punch a hole back into space, creating...

Description:

Sostanza is popularly called "Il Troia" (The Trough) because people have been lining up at the long communal tables since 1869 to enjoy huge amounts of some of the best traditional food in the city. The primi are very simple: pasta in sauce, tortellini in brodo (meat-stuffed pasta in chicken broth), and zuppa alla paesana (peasant soup ribollita). The secondi don't steer far from Florentine traditions either, with trippa alla fiorentina or their mighty specialty petti di pollo al burro (thick chicken breasts fried in butter). It's an extremely unassuming place, so laid-back you may not realize you're meant to be ordering when the waiter wanders over to chat. They also frown on anybody trying to cheat his or her own taste buds out of a full Tuscan meal.

Description:

Although the Baptistery's precise origins remain unclear, its foundations are known to date back to Roman times. The central doors are stunning works of art, depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament and they have been called "The Gates of Paradise." Lorenzo Ghiberti who worked on them from 1403 to 1424 designed these ornate doors. Inside, the octagonal structure is richly decorated with Roman columns and gilded column heads. The floor's marble inlay features Islamic-style patterns and the apse is decorated with 13th-century mosaics. Coppo di Marcovaldo and Cimabue were among those involved in the cupola's decorative mosaic work.

Our Local Expert Says:

Check out the Pieta` by Michelangelo and the original Gates of Paradise by Ghiberti!

Description:

Museo dell' Opera del Duomo was established in 1296 to supervise the construction of the Duomo and bell tower. In 1436, the Duomo was finished and the catedral was consecrated in which became a main task of the institution to preserve the monument. In 1891 the museum was renovated to hold all the works of art from over the centuries that were removed from the Duomo and the Baptistery of San Giovanni. What exists inside this museum are all the precious artwork that were taken in to be protected from the elements. The renovation of the museum took place from 1998 to 2000. Some of the most famous works that are currently being renovated and still live on inside these walls is Lorenzo Ghiberti's original bronze panels from the Baptistery's "Gates of Paradise". They are shown under the natural daylight enclosed in a courtyard. Ghiberti spent 27 years of his life in completely this masterpiece.

Description:

Alongside the wine menu (which is changed every month) there is a lot of care taken in the home-made cuisine. The menu is strictly linked to the suggested choice of wines. Amongst the first courses there are porcini mushroom and chick-pea minestrone, rosemary maltagliati pasta with garlic, beans and peppers and fish ravioli. For the second course there is the cut of duck with pears and cinnamon or the roast guinea fowl with brandy. If you prefer just to taste the wines, you can do so with a plate of mixed cooked meats and cheeses.

Description:

Hotel Continentale overlooks the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio which exudes the vibrant and seductive style of the '50s with glam. A boutique hotel that sits close to the attractions the city has to offer. The Ferragamo family owns this exsquiste hotel offering its guests an excess of services such as free internet, garage service, fitness and wellness area with a sauna to relax in. Guests benefit from the customized assistance of a pre-arrival Concierge service and are welcomed by special privileges at Lungarno Details Store, Borgo San Jacopo Ristorante, The Fusion Bar & Restaurant as well as Lounge Bar Lungarno. Experience the gorgeous views from the top of a medieval tower where you can imagine how life would've been back when the Medici family ran the city.

Description:

The district of Mugello, north of Florence, was the original home of the Medici family. It was at the time of Lorenzo the Magnificent that the Medicis had this, one of their first country villas, built very near to Artimino. In 1454 Michelozzo was placed in charge of the villa's construction, which was to be used primarily for hunting purposes. The peculiarity of the villa lies in its crenellated tower at the front of the building with battlements on each side and reinforced on each corner with strong bastions like a medieval castle. The extensive private gardens are not open to the public. Another place worthy of a visit is the nearby Castello di Trebbio, which was another of Michelozzo's accomplishments. The construction involved the restructuring of an old medieval castle, commissioned by Cosimo il Vecchio, between 1427 and 1436. This too is privately owned and may be visited on request.

Our Local Expert Says:

Get a sandwich, or 'panino' at the shop nearby, find a cool spot on the green slope to relax, and take in some fresh air.

Description:

Olmo is outside Florence, but not too far from the city. The green parkland is located in the northern hills near the Vetta le Croci (518m). It is perfect for outdoor pursuits and relaxing walks. Florentines tend to frequent Olmo, especially on Sundays, and there are refreshment stops where you can revive yourself with traditional Tuscan specialities. The Olmo fields are close to a set of crossroads which sends traffic in three directions - to Fiesole, Borgo San Lorenzo (where you can continue your walk), and Florence. It can be reached by going down Via Bolognese and once you have passed Pratolino follow the signs for Olmo.

Description:

The villa belonged to the Medici family and Cosimo, Florence's new Duke, began the work on renovating the grounds, he planned an Italian garden with geometric designs, Vasari made the Duke's dreams become reality. At the centre of the garden on the Fountain of Hercules and Anteus was placed a marble composition by Bartolomeo Ammannati, which is undergoing restoration. There are two lakes in the garden, with stone sculptures of animals, which stand out amongst the water displays. Today, the villa is the home of the Accademia della Crusca (set up to preserve and to study the "correct" form of the Italian language in 1583 and transferred here in 1974), and is not accessible to the public. Admission includes a visit to the Villa Medicea La Petraia.

Description:

Set high up in a beautiful spot overlooking the city, this park is ideal for family days out and the perfect antidote to city stress. Spend a lazy afternoon stretched out on the grass, go for a meander along its pathways or bring a picnic. Appreciated by Tuscan Resistance members who sought refuge here during the Second World War, the park is easy to get to: just follow Via Bolognese or Via dei Colli Alti near Colonnata (enjoy the view on the way up), which lead to Piazzale Leonardo da Vinci (595m). On a clear day the entire Arno valley is visible from here and a further two-hour walk takes you to Monte Morello's highest point of 934m.

Our Local Expert Says:

An expensive visit with the service to match.

Description:

Enoteca Pinchiorri is a restaurant of class and gourmet Italian cuisine. The enoteca entices the palates of many foodies who enjoy the delicatessen of Italy. The exquisite architecture gives the enoteca a prestigious atmosphere. A colorfully decorated space with frescoed ceilings, the Florentine Renaissance beckons as waiters race from table to table. The flavors have been kept close to the kitchen by one of the owners Annie Féolde who has became close friends with small producers and artisans in Tuscany in which she knows where to find the best products from wine to prosciutto for her patrons. Her top chefs, Italo Bassi and Riccardo Stumpy, collaborate together to create tasty and unforgettable dishes. From Spaghetti alla chitarra con crema di piselli to filetti di sgombro marinato, to maialino di latte allo spiedo con scalogno in agro-dolce, verza e petit-salé (carne di maiale salata), carrè d'agnello farcito di lardo di Colonnata con topinambur e crocchette di fagioli al rosmarino. Giorgio Pinchiorri's wine cellar now holds over 150,000 bottles; it is one of the largest wine celler in Italy and in the world. The pastry side is taken by Loretta Fanella. Imagine eating Marinated strawberries,... read more

Description:

Hotel Continentale overlooks the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio which exudes the vibrant and seductive style of the '50s with glam. A boutique hotel that sits close to the attractions the city has to offer. The Ferragamo family owns this exsquiste hotel offering its guests an excess of services such as free internet, garage service, fitness and wellness area with a sauna to relax in. Guests benefit from the customized assistance of a pre-arrival Concierge service and are welcomed by special privileges at Lungarno Details Store, Borgo San Jacopo Ristorante, The Fusion Bar & Restaurant as well as Lounge Bar Lungarno. Experience the gorgeous views from the top of a medieval tower where you can imagine how life would've been back when the Medici family ran the city.

Description:

The museum occupies the site of what used to be the convent of the Pious Sisters of the order of Oblates. The core exhibition, in the house of Buonarroti, obtained collections of drawings and paintings from the Uffizi and showed Florence when it was the capital of Italy. The transformation of Florence can be seen through its documentation in paintings, prints and plastics from the Renaissance to the end of the last century. The most important piece is the "Map of the succession", which is a large 19th century reproduction of a 1740 etching which showed Florence at the height of its Renaissance splendour. There are also views of Florence and lunettes which show the main Medici residences.

Description:

On the roof garden of the Hotel Baglioni we find this restaurant and piano bar which in summer becomes a real open air nightclub with its musical appointments.

Our Local Expert Says:

"You can see the hill town Fiesole and end of the Appennine Mountains from the Piazzale."

Description:

The vista which one can see the whole valley of Florence and of the surrounding hills is a must see. The climb up is rewarding, the view is breathtaking. There are buses available to take you to Piazzale Michelangelo. Tourists, tourist groups and tour buses all congregate at this panoramic view. Vendors set up early in the morning with cool beverages for the parched tourists and souvenirs for the eager shoppers. A sunset visit is for the romantics, bringing a wine bottle and gazing at the Florentine sky as it ends another day. There is never a bad time to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there is always something to see from this height

Our Local Expert Says:

"The jewelry is superb and really expensive on the Ponte Vecchio. Grab your camera and catch the Tuscan Hills alive and rolling beyond the city center."

Description:

You can't miss the most recognizable landmark of Florence, the Ponte Vecchio. Constructed in 1345, the Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge still standing in Florence, hence the name. The multicolored structure bridge was first home to butcher shops. As the noble bankers would cross the Arno river to their offices, there was a rancid smell of pigs blood and rotted meat which extremely offended them. In an effort to improve the area, the Medici stepped in and ordered the lower class shopkeepers out and moved goldsmiths and diamond-cutters in. Ponte Vecchio is the only bridge that escaped the bombing by the Germans in WWII. Today, now a pedestrian bridge, the shops shimmer and shine with necklaces, rings and charms of the most expensive kind. Tourists can enjoy an early morning walk over the bridge before the shops open or at sunset where lovers stare at the horizon as musicians sing and be merry.

Our Local Expert Says:

A whole day could be spent in here if you are an art fan, each room is filled with something to see.

Description:

The Uffizi is one of the world's great museums, and the single best introduction to Renaissance painting, with works by Giotto, Masaccio, Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Perugino, Michelangelo, Raphael Sanzio, Titian, Caravaggio, and the list goes on. The museum is deceptively small. What looks like a small stretch of gallery space can easily gobble up half a day -- many rooms suffer the fate of containing nothing but masterpieces.

Know before you go that the Uffizi regularly shuts down rooms for crowd-control reasons -- especially in summer, when the bulk of the annual 1.5 million visitors stampedes the place. Of the more than 3,100 artworks in the museum's archives, only about 1,700 are on exhibit.

The painting gallery is housed in the structure built to serve as the offices ( uffizi is Florentine dialect for uffici, or "offices") of the Medici, commissioned by Cosimo I from Giorgio Vasari in 1560 -- perhaps his greatest architectural work. The painting gallery was started by Cosimo I as well and is now housed in the second-floor rooms that open off a long hall lined with ancient statues and frescoed with grotesques.

Tips for Seeing the Uffizi -- If you have the...

Description:

Cibero boasts some of Florence's most renowned food. Chef Fabio Picchi creates traditional dishes that a Tuscan Grandmother would make, but with the highest quality ingredients, and a master chef's technique. The restaurant itself is a fine dinning experience--down to the linen table cloths--but the trattoria next door (of the same name) is more or less the same menu without the frills. Be sure to book in advance for the restaurant, and if you're going to the Tratorria be ready for a wait as it does not accept reservations.