Iohan

Description:

• Although it's set on the ground floor of a medieval building behind the Rathaus (Town Hall), you might get the feeling that you're in an underground cellar here, thanks partly to a majestic-looking vaulted stone ceiling and some very impressive masonry. Long, narrow, vaguely monastic, and permeated with a sense of the Middle Ages, it's the premier and most stylish restaurant of Graz, with a clientele whose names appear in the society section of the local newspaper. Its sophisticated touches of postmodern design put the place firmly in the 21st century. There's an elongated bar -- almost 30m (100 ft.) of it -- crafted from beechwood, theatrical lighting, and food that's on the nouvelle side of the culinary equation. Menu items are much worked over, frequently adapted to the seasons. The best examples, depending on the time of year you arrive, include a divine breast of wild goose glazed with Pinot Grigio and a confit of goose liver; a mélange of sweet potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, and poached carp dumplings; a platter containing three different preparations of veal served with a parsley and salsify rösti (a patty sautéed to crispy golden brown) and a creamy version of red lentils; and filet of beef with crabmeat, roast onions, and white-bread dumplings. You'll recognize the outside of this place thanks to a baroque overlay that was added to the building's original medieval core, and a flickering torch that blazes near its entrance.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010