da Maurizio

Description:

• daMaurizio does everything right. Located in a cleverly adapted former brewery, the vast space has been divided into a complex of hives with columns and exposed brick that add to the atmosphere and heighten the anticipation of the meal. The decor shuns decorative doodads for clean lines and simple class. Much the same might be said of the menu. You could start with an appetizer such as squid quick-fried with olive oil, tomato, and chiles, pick through a romaine salad with grapefruit and candied walnuts, go for risotto or minestrone, or just order simple ravioli with sausage. The main courses tax even the most decisive of diners: On a given night, they might include pastas featuring lobster, leeks, white wine, cream, and fresh ginger; gnocchi with Bolognese sauce; pumpkin ravioli with citrus and roasted duck sauce; pasta with king crab and mascarpone, drizzled with curry sauce; a few variations on veal scaloppine; pan-seared scallops with chili and port sauce; or a whole lobster gratinéed with sweet peppers, onions, brandy, and cream. Desserts run beyond tiramisu and gelati to cake; panna cotta; a fruit, nut, and cheese plate; and tartufo, a molded almond gelato filled with chocolate and topped with crumbled amaretti, with crème anglaise and a chocolate ganache on the side. These simple dishes aren't meant to dazzle with outlandish creativity but rely instead on the best ingredients and the kitchen's close eye for perfect preparation.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010