Havana Transportation

Getting There:

By Air:

Havana Jose Marti International (HAV) (+53 7 452 589) provides regional service and houses the following airlines:

Cubana (+53 7 333 949 / http://www.cubana.cu) Aerocaribbean (+53 7 797 524 / http://www.aero-caribbean.com/) Aeroflot (http://www.aeroflot.org/) Air France (+1 02 831 2226 / http://www.airfrance.com/) Air Jamaica (+1 800 523 5585; http://www.airjamaica.com/) Iberia (+1 902 400 515; http://www.iberia.com/) Lan Chile (+1 626 282 9988) Martinair (+53 7 833 3732 / http://www.martinair.com/) Mexicana (+1 800 509 8960 / http://www.mexicana.com/)

No bus service currently exists from the airport into town. Tourists arrange for a minibus transfer with ground agents; these are pre-booked. Metered tourist taxis wait outside at the arrivals. Call (+53 7 452 589) for further information on ground transportation.

By Taxi:

It is recommended to establish fare prices before you travel in a taxi. Typically, taxi fare from the airport into town costs USD15.

Tourist taxis include:

Panataxi (+53 7 55 5555) Micar (+53 7 24 2444 / +53 7 24 2715)

Bicitaxi provides the cheapest transportation in Havana. It provides bicycle transportation in the city.

Cocotaxi is a fun way to get around town.

Rental Car Companies:

Renting a car is the most practical mode of transportation in Havana, although you should check the condition of the vehicle before you rent it. It typically costs USD45-100 per day and you should request an air-conditioned car. Although you can book a rental car in advance, it may be cheaper and easier to arrange for a vehicle in Havana. Most hotels offer rental car services.

Getting Around:

By Bus:

Viazul Bus (http://www.viazul.cu/home_eng.htm) offers 5 star tourist transportation services and is the best mode of transportation around and outside the city. The company has established routes between principal cities and tourist centers. Buses are air-conditioned and have bathrooms, minibars and movies. You might want to bring a sweater because it can get chilly onboard. Book at least 2 days in advance.

Astro Bus (Gua Gua public transit) is the national public transportation service in Havana. Mainly for locals, the public buses run on no apparent schedule, have no air-conditioning, and are very crowded. If you choose to utilize this mode of transportation, keep an eye on your personal belongings.

Camel Bus (El Camelo) is an interesting choice if you are seeking a real Cuban transportation experience. Watch your personal belongings very carefully.

By Train:

The train system in Cuba is not reliable or comfortable, and does not run on a set schedule, yet it can provide a valuable cultural experience. Avoid using the train if your trip lasts less than 10 days.

Havana Central Train Station (+53 7 62 81920)

By Ferry:

The best ferry service is located on the Entrada Canal, across from the Castillo de la Real Fuerza in Havana. This Balsero ferry ride consists of a blue double-decker boat blasting Cuban techno music as it glides through the water. It promises to be an exciting trip.

By Car:

Although you do not need a car to get around town, and you must pay for parking, cars are very helpful for traveling to the countryside and other towns and regions. The roads in Cuba are basically in good shape and recommended for travel. However, use caution when driving at night.

By Bike/Scooter:

Bike and scooter rentals are available in Havana and other tourist towns. Although they are a great way to get around the city, make sure they are securely locked if you leave them.

Planning a Trip

Infotur (tel. 7/866-3333; www.infotur.cu), Calle Obispo, corner of Bernaza, is the official state-run tourist information agency. It has offices or kiosks in several strategic spots around Havana, and in each of the three terminals at the airport. It can provide you with some brochures and information, and can usually help you make reservations. Most of the kiosks also have a small selection of maps and various local tourist guides and books for sale.

There are a handful of large, state-run tour agencies that have desks at most hotels around town; these include Havanatur (tel. 7/204-8409; www.havanatur.cu), Cubanacán (tel. 7/208-6044; www.cubanacan.cu), and Cubatur (tel. 7/835-4155; www.cubatur.cu). These are your best bets for information and tour bookings around the country. In Havana, the San Cristóbal agency, part of Habaguanex, Calle Oficios 110 bajos between Calles Lamparilla and Amarguar (tel. 7/861-9171; www.viajessancristobal.cu) also provides city tours that include some interesting sociocultural tours not offered by other agencies.

City Layout

Havana is a major city built around its ample and protected harbor. The oldest colonial-era buildings are closest to the harbor, and the bulk of the expansion heads out west from there. The city is bordered along its northern edge by the Caribbean Sea. The majority of Havana's denizens live in large, densely populated working-class neighborhoods to the south of the principal downtown business and tourist neighborhoods. While there are communities on the eastern side of the harbor, the most important neighborhoods and developments are all found on the western side. These communities are generally laid out in a series of abutting grids, although they often abut at odd angles.

While the streets in Vedado and Playa tend to be numbered or carry a letter designation, the neighborhoods of La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana have only named streets. To make matters more confusing, most of the streets in La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana have two or more names -- those that appear on maps and street signs are often different from their common names. Wherever possible, I've tried to give the most common and popularly used name.

In La Habana Vieja and Centro Habana, street names are generally displayed on little plaques or signs attached to the sides of corner buildings at street intersections. The plaques tend to be hung relatively high, at about 3m (10 ft.) or so. In Vedado and Playa, you'll want to look lower, as most intersections feature a .5m-high (1 1/2-ft.) concrete block in a sort of pyramid shape, with the street name engraved on it.

Street addresses are usually given as follows: Prado no. 22, e/Tejadillo y Empedrado; or 23 e/L y M. In the case of the first example, the address is for building 22 on Paseo del Prado, located between the cross streets Calle Tejadillo and Calle Empedrado. In the second case, the address is for an unnumbered building on Calle 23 between Calles L and M. Note that Cuban addresses frequently omit the word "Calle" or "Avenida." Also, Cubans usually refer to Avenida 5 as "Quinta Avenida," "5ta Avenida," or -- most commonly -- simply "5ta."

Getting There

By Plane

Arriving international passengers clear Customs on the ground level of Terminal 3 at the José Martí International Airport (tel. 7/266-4133; airport code HAV). All of the major car-rental agencies have kiosks or booths just outside of Customs. There's also an Infotur kiosk (tel. 7/266-4094; www.infotur.cu), where you can buy a map and pick up some brochures, and you should even be able to get help with reservations.

There's an ATM among all the booths and kiosks on the ground floor, and another on the second floor, where departing passengers check in. Etecsa, the national phone company, has booths with card-operated pay phones on this level, as well as on the second floor. You can either buy a card from them, if their booth is manned, or from one of the souvenir vendors on the second floor.

Taxis wait in a long line just outside the ground-floor exit. Cars are marked with different names, such as Taxi OK or Panataxi. However, in summer 2008, all taxis changed their name to Cubataxi and all are run by the Ministry of Transport. The rate to any hotel in downtown Havana is CUC$20 to CUC$25 (US$22-US$27/£11-£14); airport taxis refuse to use their meters on this run.

Some charter flights and all national flights arrive at either Terminal 1 or 2. Both terminals also have Infotur offices or kiosks, an ATM or two, telephones, and taxis.

If you're driving from the airport, the main artery into Havana is Avenida de Rancho Boyeros. This will bring you to the Plaza de la Revolución and the towering José Martí Memorial. In general terms, if you continue straight, or roughly north toward the sea, you will hit the University of Havana and Vedado. Miramar and Playa will be to the left (west) and are best reached via the Malecón, while Centro Habana and La Habana Vieja will be to the right (east).

By Car

Entering Havana by car is a confusing mess. Almost none of the major arteries into downtown are marked. This is especially true of the Autopista Nacional coming in from the east, which dumps you unceremoniously into the midst of an urban mess of some of the city's outer neighborhoods. Similarly, while there is ostensibly a beltway, or Circunvalación, around the downtown area, it and its various exits are virtually entirely unmarked.

One good tactic for navigating Havana is to somehow find your way to the Malecón; from there, the entire city is relatively easily accessible. The main thoroughfare through Miramar and Playa is Avenida 5.

By Train

The principal train station, or Estación Central, is located in La Habana Vieja at Calle Egido and Calle Arsenal (tel. 7/861-4259). There are always plenty of taxis waiting at the station.

By Bus

The main Víazul bus station (tel. 7/881-1413 or 7/881-5652; www.viazul.com) is located at Avenida 26 and Zoológico in Nuevo Vedado, on the outskirts of downtown. From here, it is a CUC$3 (US$3.25/£1.60) taxi ride to Vedado and CUC$4 to CUC$5 (US$4.30-US$5.40/£2.15-£2.70) to La Habana Vieja. Astro buses (tel. 7/870-9401) arrive at their main terminal at Avenida de la Independencia and Calle 19 de Mayo, near the Plaza de la Revolución. There are always taxis available at both stations.

By Boat

Marlin's Marina Hemingway, Avenida 5 and Calle 248, Santa Fe, Playa (tel. 7/204-1150 or 7/204-6848; www.nauticamarlin.com), is the principal port of call and official point of entry for clearing Customs and Immigration. When arriving by sea, contact the marina before entering Cuban waters (19km/12 miles offshore) on VHF channels 16 or 72, or HF channel 7462.

Commercial cruise ships dock at the Sierra Maestra Terminal in La Habana Vieja, just off the Plaza de San Francisco.