Getting There:
By Air:
The Tan Son Nhat Airport (http://www.saigonairport.com) is located 4 miles north of Ho Chi Minh. The Airport provides international and domestic service from such airlines including:
Aeroflot (+84 829 3489/ http://www.aeroflot.com)
Air France (+84 829 0981/ http://www.airfrance.com)
ANA (+84 822 4141/ http://www.ana-sin.com.sg)
Asiana Airlines (+84 822 2622/ http://www.flyasiana.com)
British Airways (+84 829 2262/ http://www.britishairways.com)
Cathay Pacific (+84 822 3203/ http://www.cathaypacific.com)
China Airlines (+84 825 1388/ http://www.china-airlines.com)
China Southern Airlines (+84 823 5588/ http://www.cs-air.com)
Emirates (+84 825 6576/ http://www.emirates.com)
Evaair (+84 822 4488/ http://www.evaair.com)
Japan Airlines (+84 821 9098/ http://www.jal.co.jp)
KLM Royal Dutch (+84 823 1990/ http://www.klm.com)
Korean Air (+84 824 2878/ http://www.koreanair.com)
Vietnam Airlines (http://www.vietnamairlines.com.vn)
Many hotels offer airport pick-ups, allowing for quick and easy transportation into town.
Airport taxis and limousine services are also readily available at the airport.
By Train:
Trains run on a daily basis throughout Vietnam including service between Ho Chi Minh, Hanoi, and other major cities.
By Bus:
Buses are always packed but provide a cheap way of getting into the city from destinations throughout Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
By Car:
Drivers must obtain a Vietnamese driver's license to drive in the country, as International licenses are not valid. In the city of Ho Chi Minh, it is not possible to hire a car without a driver.
Getting Around:
Ho Chi Minh is a good city to view via foot, however be in constant alert for the chaotic traffic.
Public buses are the cheapest ways to get around, but are often overly crowded and unreliable. Saigon Star Bus Company (+84 08 864 2762) is Ho Chi Minh's only private bus company operating four routes throughout the city.
Metered taxis, cyclos and motorbikes are probably the easiest modes of transportation around the city and if you're really brave, cyclos and motorbikes are available to rent by the hour. Taxi companies include: Ben Thanh Taxi (+84 08 842 2422) Mai Linh Taxi (+84 08 822 6666) Saigon Taxi (+84 08 842 4242) Vinataxi (+84 08 811 1111)
Checking out the city by boat is also a popular option. Many attractions are located along the banks of the Saigon River and small boats can be rented out at reasonable prices.
Getting There:
By Air:
The Tan Son Nhat Airport (http://www.saigonairport.com) is located 4 miles north of Ho Chi Minh. The Airport provides international and domestic service from such airlines including:
Aeroflot (+84 829 3489/ http://www.aeroflot.com)
Air France (+84 829 0981/ http://www.airfrance.com)
ANA (+84 822 4141/ http://www.ana-sin.com.sg)
Asiana Airlines (+84 822 2622/ http://www.flyasiana.com)
British Airways (+84 829 2262/ http://www.britishairways.com)
Cathay Pacific (+84 822 3203/ http://www.cathaypacific.com)
China Airlines (+84 825 1388/ http://www.china-airlines.com)
China Southern Airlines (+84 823 5588/ http://www.cs-air.com)
Emirates (+84 825 6576/ http://www.emirates.com)
Evaair (+84 822 4488/ http://www.evaair.com)
Japan Airlines (+84 821 9098/ http://www.jal.co.jp)
KLM Royal Dutch (+84 823 1990/ http://www.klm.com)
Korean Air (+84 824 2878/ http://www.koreanair.com)
Vietnam Airlines (http://www.vietnamairlines.com.vn)
Many hotels offer airport pick-ups, allowing for quick and easy transportation into town.
Airport taxis and limousine services are also readily available at the airport.
By Train:
Trains run on a daily basis throughout Vietnam including service between Ho Chi Minh, Hanoi, and other major cities.
By Bus:
Buses are always packed but provide a cheap way of getting into the city from destinations throughout Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.
By Car:
Drivers must obtain a Vietnamese driver's license to drive in the country, as International licenses are not valid. In the city of Ho Chi Minh, it is not possible to hire a car without a driver.
Getting Around:
Ho Chi Minh is a good city to view via foot, however be in constant alert for the chaotic traffic.
Public buses are the cheapest ways to get around, but are often overly crowded and unreliable. Saigon Star Bus Company (+84 08 864 2762) is Ho Chi Minh's only private bus company operating four routes throughout the city.
Metered taxis, cyclos and motorbikes are probably the easiest modes of transportation around the city and if you're really brave, cyclos and motorbikes are available to rent by the hour. Taxi companies include: Ben Thanh Taxi (+84 08 842 2422) Mai Linh Taxi (+84 08 822 6666) Saigon Taxi (+84 08 842 4242) Vinataxi (+84 08 811 1111)
Checking out the city by boat is also a popular option. Many attractions are located along the banks of the Saigon River and small boats can be rented out at reasonable prices.
more transportation
Frommer's
Planning a Trip
Getting There & Getting Away
By Plane -- Most regional airlines connect with Ho Chi Minh City, including Malaysian Airlines, Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, Silk Air/Singapore Airlines, Lao Aviation, Garuda Indonesia, Philippine Airlines, United, and Cathay Pacific (from Hong Kong). Vietnam Airlines usually has the best fare thanks to government controls. If you're flying to Vietnam directly from North America, check with United flights or with Cathay Pacific for good fares and itineraries. Domestically, Saigon is linked by Vietnam Airline flights from Hanoi, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, Nha Trang, and Dalat.
At the airport in Saigon, you can change foreign currency for VND, but taxi drivers to town don't mind payment in U.S. dollars. Arranging a hotel limousine to greet you will certainly make life a bit easier, but taxis are aplenty outside the arrivals hall. You can also book a taxi at the airport taxi booth just beyond the baggage claim area; the trip to town is $5 (£2.75) for a regular taxi or $6 (£3.35) for a SUV/van taxi. There is a small tourist information booth near the airport exit, but for now it has just a scant few hotel pamphlets. You can contact the airport lost and found at tel. 08/844-6665, ext. 7461.
In town the Vietnam Airlines office is at 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/824-4482), or call their reservation office, which is at 49 Truong Son St., Tan Binh District (tel. 08/832-0320). Just about everyone in town, from the many traveler cafes to hotel front-desk staff or concierge, can book your onward domestic flights on Vietnam Airlines.
To get to town from the Tan Son Nhat airport, taxis wait in front of the arrivals area. If you didn't book a taxi at the taxi booth, stick with established companies. For a fun ride in style, look around at the airport for the few old white Peugeot taxis that still roll around town; the price is the same, but the ride is slow and you'll feel like a khaki-clad colonial. The ride to most locations in District 1 should be no more than 80,000 VND ($5.35/£3). To get to the airport from town, contact any hotel front desk to arrange the fixed 80,000 VND ($5.35/£3) fare from most locations in District 1. Departure taxes are included in the price of air tickets. Below is the contact information for all airlines in Ho Chi Minh City: Air France, 130 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-0981); Asiana Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/822-2622); British Airways, 114A Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-2262); Cathay Pacific Airways, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-3203); China Airlines, 37 Ton Duc Thanag, District 1 (tel. 08/911-1591); China Southern Airlines, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 (tel. 08/823-5588); Eva Air, 19 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-4488); KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, 130 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/823-1990); Korean Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/824-2878); Austrian Airlines, 11 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-7117); Lufthansa, 132-134 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-8529); Malaysia Airlines, 235 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/829-2529); Qantas, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1 (tel. 08/930-2944); Siem Reap Airways International, 132 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/823-9288); Singapore Airlines, Suite 101, Saigon Tower Building, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/823-1588); Thai Airways, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/829-2810); United Airlines, Seventh Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/823-4755); and Vietnam Airlines, 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/832-0320).
Scam Alert -- If you go with a taxi driver, even a metered one, from the airport in Saigon, watch out for the hotel bait-and-switch scam. Drivers get commissions for leading tourists to one hotel or another, and they commonly insist that the hotel you're going to is full, closed, or has some other problem. The driver will pull a dour face and even sound pretty convincing as he tries to take you to his friend's hotel. Sit tight until you're at your intended destination. It might help for you to agree in writing where you're going before setting out. Important: Go with established companies when going by metered taxi (choose yellow Vina Taxi, red Saigon Tourist Taxi, or white Mai Linh Taxi), as many small operators have rigged meters.
By Bus/Minivan -- Saigon is the hub of transport in the south, and all bus lines pass through here. Saigon is the terminus of the "Open Tour" Ticket for budget bus tours, and Saigon's many traveler cafes that line the streets of the Pham Ngu Lao budget travel area are your best bet for convenient onward travel by road, whether by air-conditioned bus or minivan. See the tour information below for listings.
Tourist buses also connect Saigon by road via the Moc Bai border crossing with nearby Cambodia. The all-day ride leaves daily in either a minibus or large air-conditioned coach from the De Tham-area tourist cafes. From Cambodia to Saigon, contact the likes of Capitol Tours in Phnom Penh (or any other budget tour office).
Local buses are, as anywhere in Vietnam, a bit harrowing, but Saigon's bus stations are the most organized and offer myriad routes out from this central hub. Also be sure to leave from the correct bus station (there are three) for your destination.
Mien Dong Bus Station (292 Dinh Bo Linh Rd., Binh Thanh District) has services to the north of Vietnam, including to the Central Highlands and Phan Thiet.
Mien Tay Bus Station (395 Kinh Duong Vuong Rd., Binh Tan District) serves the Mekong Delta to the south.
Cholon Bus Station (84 Trang Tu Rd., District 5) connects with nearby towns in the Mekong Delta as well as west toward Cambodia and the town of Tay Ninh.
By Car -- For safety reasons alone, if you're renting a car, we suggest that you book a minivan with a tour or arrange a car with driver. Self-drive is possible, but chaotic roads and shoddy insurance can mean some major hassles. Contact any hotel front desk for arrangements. Many of Saigon's hotels are run by the massive government-run Saigontourist and they offer lots of affordable in-town and regional tour options by private car.
By Train -- Saigon is the southern terminus of the Reunification Express, Vietnam's north-south rail connection. Ga Saigon, or the Saigon station, is in District 3 at 1 Nguyen Thong St. Bookings can be made at the convenient Saigon Railway Tourist Service Co. in the backpacker area at 275C Pham Ngu Lao St. (tel. 08/931-2828). The office is open from 7:30am to 8pm and they're a pretty surly bunch, but you should find English speakers in the group. Most popular from Saigon is the long hall to Nha Trang (about 6 1/2 hr. with a few daily departures; 252,000 VND/$17/£9.40) or to Danang (13 hr.; 572,000 VND/$38/£21), Hue (14 1/2 hr.; 666,000 VND/$44/£24), or all the way to Hanoi (31 hr.; 995,000 VND/$66/£37). Prices above are for the fastest trains and comfortable, air-conditioned sleeper berths; budget options are the hard berth sleepers with six to a car or the masochistic hard seat. Vietnamese trains are quite efficient and a good way to meet with locals and have a little adventure on the rails.
By Boat -- Check out the unique options to connect by boat from Phnom Penh or Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta and begin an overland tour to Saigon. Check with budget tour cafes in your departure city. A unique new option is the weeklong cruise between Angkor Wat and either Can Tho or My Tho in the Mekong Delta aboard one of the luxury, shallow draft Pandaw Cruise Boats (www.pandaw.com). Shared rooms on the vessel start at $780 (£433) for the duration.
Getting Around
By Taxi -- Taxis are clustered around the bigger hotels and restaurants. They cost 12,000 VND to 15,000 VND (80¢-$1/£0.45-£0.55) at flag fall and 6,000 VND (40¢/£0.20) or so for every kilometer thereafter. Call, Mai Linh Taxi (tel. 08/925-0250), Vina Taxi (tel. 08/815-5145), or Vinasun (tel. 08/272-727). Stick with the larger companies listed here, as others (many with copycat names that sound similar) are famous for doctoring the meter and charging far more than the accepted price.
By Car -- You can simplify your sightseeing efforts if you hire a car and driver for the day. Contact Ann Tours, Saigontourist, or any hotel concierge. Expect to pay about $30 (£17) for a day's rental with driver.
By Motorcycle Taxi -- If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Saigon's crazy motorbike traffic is maddening in a car, which feels something like an elephant in a forest of buzzing mosquitoes, so a motorbike is a great way to weave through the chaos -- a quick trip is 5,000 VND (35¢/£0.20) for the savvy haggler (usually closer to 10,000 VND/65¢/£0.35), while hourly booking can be in the ballpark of $1 (£0.55) per hour (don't bother with the English-speaking drivers in the Dong Khoi area who tell you that they'll be your guide for 50,000 VND/$3.35/£1.85 per hour). A bit hair-raising sometimes, but it is a good way to get around. Ask for a helmet; most city drivers carry one in a plastic bag on the side of their bike for safety-conscious clients. Keep your knees in, and many drivers will appreciate if, when merging in traffic, you help out looking back and signaling your turn with a wave to oncoming traffic. You'll come back caked in city grime, with some good stories for friends back home.
By Cyclo -- Cyclos are available for an hourly rental of about 20,000 VND ($1.35/£0.75), but they're simply not a good option in Saigon, especially outside District 1. First, drivers have an odd habit of not speaking English (or indeed, any other language) halfway through your trip and taking you to places you never asked to see, or simply driving around in circles pretending to be confused. Second, riding in a slow, open conveyance amid thousands of motorbikes and cars is unpleasant and dangerous, and cyclo passengers are low to the ground and in the front, something like a bumper. A short jaunt around the Dong Khoi area or for hops between some of the city sights is memorable, but all-day cyclo tours are not recommended.
By Bicycle & Motorbike -- Saigon traffic is chaos, so you might want to think twice before renting a motorbike or bicycle to get around the city on your own. Any hotel front desk can arrange rental at an inflated fee, or try the many little storefronts on Pham Ngu Lao, just west of the intersection with De Tham, where a full-day bike rental starts at $1 (£0.55) and a motorbike is from $5 (£2.75). Wear a helmet (if available) and drive slowly, staying in the middle of the herd.
Saigon's Districts
Metropolitan Ho Chi Minh City is divided into 19 administrative districts, numbered 1 through 12 and including Tan Binh, Bin Thanh, Phu Nhuan, Thu Duc, Go Vap, Binh Tan, and Tan Phu. Be sure to know the name or number of the district you need when looking for an address, and try to group your travels accordingly (you don't want to try to crisscross too many districts in 1 day). Most of the hotels, bars, shops, and restaurants are in District 1, parts of which are easily covered on foot -- though you'll want to hop a motorbike taxi or cab to cross the length of a district. District 1 is home to the central Ben Thanh Market and includes the city's most busy commercial area, Dong Khoi, as well as the backpacker district of Pham Ngu Lao. District 1 is flanked to the east and south by the Saigon River, which is where Dong Khoi Street terminates and marks the boundary of the most developed part of the city. Saigon's sightseeing attractions are spread among districts 1, 3, and 5 (Cholon). District 3 is just north and west of the central Dong Khoi area and is home to many foreign business offices and embassies. District 5 is a fair ride west of the town center and supports the city's large ethnic Chinese population, a number of older temples, and a market area.
Language Study
Saigon Vietnamese Language School for Foreigners (41 Dinh Tien Hoang St., District 1; tel. 08/825-1027; fax 08/910-5673) has courses for anyone from beginner to expert, for long or short stays.
Planning a Trip
Getting There & Getting Away
By Plane -- Most regional airlines connect with Ho Chi Minh City, including Malaysian Airlines, Thai Airways, Bangkok Airways, Silk Air/Singapore Airlines, Lao Aviation, Garuda Indonesia, Philippine Airlines, United, and Cathay Pacific (from Hong Kong). Vietnam Airlines usually has the best fare thanks to government controls. If you're flying to Vietnam directly from North America, check with United flights or with Cathay Pacific for good fares and itineraries. Domestically, Saigon is linked by Vietnam Airline flights from Hanoi, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, Nha Trang, and Dalat.
At the airport in Saigon, you can change foreign currency for VND, but taxi drivers to town don't mind payment in U.S. dollars. Arranging a hotel limousine to greet you will certainly make life a bit easier, but taxis are aplenty outside the arrivals hall. You can also book a taxi at the airport taxi booth just beyond the baggage claim area; the trip to town is $5 (£2.75) for a regular taxi or $6 (£3.35) for a SUV/van taxi. There is a small tourist information booth near the airport exit, but for now it has just a scant few hotel pamphlets. You can contact the airport lost and found at tel. 08/844-6665, ext. 7461.
In town the Vietnam Airlines office is at 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/824-4482), or call their reservation office, which is at 49 Truong Son St., Tan Binh District (tel. 08/832-0320). Just about everyone in town, from the many traveler cafes to hotel front-desk staff or concierge, can book your onward domestic flights on Vietnam Airlines.
To get to town from the Tan Son Nhat airport, taxis wait in front of the arrivals area. If you didn't book a taxi at the taxi booth, stick with established companies. For a fun ride in style, look around at the airport for the few old white Peugeot taxis that still roll around town; the price is the same, but the ride is slow and you'll feel like a khaki-clad colonial. The ride to most locations in District 1 should be no more than 80,000 VND ($5.35/£3). To get to the airport from town, contact any hotel front desk to arrange the fixed 80,000 VND ($5.35/£3) fare from most locations in District 1. Departure taxes are included in the price of air tickets. Below is the contact information for all airlines in Ho Chi Minh City: Air France, 130 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-0981); Asiana Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/822-2622); British Airways, 114A Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-2262); Cathay Pacific Airways, 115 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-3203); China Airlines, 37 Ton Duc Thanag, District 1 (tel. 08/911-1591); China Southern Airlines, 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District 1 (tel. 08/823-5588); Eva Air, 19 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/822-4488); KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, 130 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/823-1990); Korean Airlines, 34 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/824-2878); Austrian Airlines, 11 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-7117); Lufthansa, 132-134 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/829-8529); Malaysia Airlines, 235 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/829-2529); Qantas, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, District 1 (tel. 08/930-2944); Siem Reap Airways International, 132 Dong Khoi St., District 1 (tel. 08/823-9288); Singapore Airlines, Suite 101, Saigon Tower Building, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/823-1588); Thai Airways, 29 Le Duan, District 1 (tel. 08/829-2810); United Airlines, Seventh Floor, 58 Dong Khoi, District 1 (tel. 08/823-4755); and Vietnam Airlines, 116 Nguyen Hue, District 1 (tel. 08/832-0320).
Scam Alert -- If you go with a taxi driver, even a metered one, from the airport in Saigon, watch out for the hotel bait-and-switch scam. Drivers get commissions for leading tourists to one hotel or another, and they commonly insist that the hotel you're going to is full, closed, or has some other problem. The driver will pull a dour face and even sound pretty convincing as he tries to take you to his friend's hotel. Sit tight until you're at your intended destination. It might help for you to agree in writing where you're going before setting out. Important: Go with established companies when going by metered taxi (choose yellow Vina Taxi, red Saigon Tourist Taxi, or white Mai Linh Taxi), as many small operators have rigged meters.
By Bus/Minivan -- Saigon is the hub of transport in the south, and all bus lines pass through here. Saigon is the terminus of the "Open Tour" Ticket for budget bus tours, and Saigon's many traveler cafes that line the streets of the Pham Ngu Lao budget travel area are your best bet for convenient onward travel by road, whether by air-conditioned bus or minivan. See the tour information below for listings.
Tourist buses also connect Saigon by road via the Moc Bai border crossing with nearby Cambodia. The all-day ride leaves daily in either a minibus or large air-conditioned coach from the De Tham-area tourist cafes. From Cambodia to Saigon, contact the likes of Capitol Tours in Phnom Penh (or any other budget tour office).
Local buses are, as anywhere in Vietnam, a bit harrowing, but Saigon's bus stations are the most organized and offer myriad routes out from this central hub. Also be sure to leave from the correct bus station (there are three) for your destination.
Mien Dong Bus Station (292 Dinh Bo Linh Rd., Binh Thanh District) has services to the north of Vietnam, including to the Central Highlands and Phan Thiet.
Mien Tay Bus Station (395 Kinh Duong Vuong Rd., Binh Tan District) serves the Mekong Delta to the south.
Cholon Bus Station (84 Trang Tu Rd., District 5) connects with nearby towns in the Mekong Delta as well as west toward Cambodia and the town of Tay Ninh.
By Car -- For safety reasons alone, if you're renting a car, we suggest that you book a minivan with a tour or arrange a car with driver. Self-drive is possible, but chaotic roads and shoddy insurance can mean some major hassles. Contact any hotel front desk for arrangements. Many of Saigon's hotels are run by the massive government-run Saigontourist and they offer lots of affordable in-town and regional tour options by private car.
By Train -- Saigon is the southern terminus of the Reunification Express, Vietnam's north-south rail connection. Ga Saigon, or the Saigon station, is in District 3 at 1 Nguyen Thong St. Bookings can be made at the convenient Saigon Railway Tourist Service Co. in the backpacker area at 275C Pham Ngu Lao St. (tel. 08/931-2828). The office is open from 7:30am to 8pm and they're a pretty surly bunch, but you should find English speakers in the group. Most popular from Saigon is the long hall to Nha Trang (about 6 1/2 hr. with a few daily departures; 252,000 VND/$17/£9.40) or to Danang (13 hr.; 572,000 VND/$38/£21), Hue (14 1/2 hr.; 666,000 VND/$44/£24), or all the way to Hanoi (31 hr.; 995,000 VND/$66/£37). Prices above are for the fastest trains and comfortable, air-conditioned sleeper berths; budget options are the hard berth sleepers with six to a car or the masochistic hard seat. Vietnamese trains are quite efficient and a good way to meet with locals and have a little adventure on the rails.
By Boat -- Check out the unique options to connect by boat from Phnom Penh or Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta and begin an overland tour to Saigon. Check with budget tour cafes in your departure city. A unique new option is the weeklong cruise between Angkor Wat and either Can Tho or My Tho in the Mekong Delta aboard one of the luxury, shallow draft Pandaw Cruise Boats (www.pandaw.com). Shared rooms on the vessel start at $780 (£433) for the duration.
Getting Around
By Taxi -- Taxis are clustered around the bigger hotels and restaurants. They cost 12,000 VND to 15,000 VND (80¢-$1/£0.45-£0.55) at flag fall and 6,000 VND (40¢/£0.20) or so for every kilometer thereafter. Call, Mai Linh Taxi (tel. 08/925-0250), Vina Taxi (tel. 08/815-5145), or Vinasun (tel. 08/272-727). Stick with the larger companies listed here, as others (many with copycat names that sound similar) are famous for doctoring the meter and charging far more than the accepted price.
By Car -- You can simplify your sightseeing efforts if you hire a car and driver for the day. Contact Ann Tours, Saigontourist, or any hotel concierge. Expect to pay about $30 (£17) for a day's rental with driver.
By Motorcycle Taxi -- If you can't beat 'em, join 'em. Saigon's crazy motorbike traffic is maddening in a car, which feels something like an elephant in a forest of buzzing mosquitoes, so a motorbike is a great way to weave through the chaos -- a quick trip is 5,000 VND (35¢/£0.20) for the savvy haggler (usually closer to 10,000 VND/65¢/£0.35), while hourly booking can be in the ballpark of $1 (£0.55) per hour (don't bother with the English-speaking drivers in the Dong Khoi area who tell you that they'll be your guide for 50,000 VND/$3.35/£1.85 per hour). A bit hair-raising sometimes, but it is a good way to get around. Ask for a helmet; most city drivers carry one in a plastic bag on the side of their bike for safety-conscious clients. Keep your knees in, and many drivers will appreciate if, when merging in traffic, you help out looking back and signaling your turn with a wave to oncoming traffic. You'll come back caked in city grime, with some good stories for friends back home.
By Cyclo -- Cyclos are available for an hourly rental of about 20,000 VND ($1.35/£0.75), but they're simply not a good option in Saigon, especially outside District 1. First, drivers have an odd habit of not speaking English (or indeed, any other language) halfway through your trip and taking you to places you never asked to see, or simply driving around in circles pretending to be confused. Second, riding in a slow, open conveyance amid thousands of motorbikes and cars is unpleasant and dangerous, and cyclo passengers are low to the ground and in the front, something like a bumper. A short jaunt around the Dong Khoi area or for hops between some of the city sights is memorable, but all-day cyclo tours are not recommended.
By Bicycle & Motorbike -- Saigon traffic is chaos, so you might want to think twice before renting a motorbike or bicycle to get around the city on your own. Any hotel front desk can arrange rental at an inflated fee, or try the many little storefronts on Pham Ngu Lao, just west of the intersection with De Tham, where a full-day bike rental starts at $1 (£0.55) and a motorbike is from $5 (£2.75). Wear a helmet (if available) and drive slowly, staying in the middle of the herd.
Saigon's Districts
Metropolitan Ho Chi Minh City is divided into 19 administrative districts, numbered 1 through 12 and including Tan Binh, Bin Thanh, Phu Nhuan, Thu Duc, Go Vap, Binh Tan, and Tan Phu. Be sure to know the name or number of the district you need when looking for an address, and try to group your travels accordingly (you don't want to try to crisscross too many districts in 1 day). Most of the hotels, bars, shops, and restaurants are in District 1, parts of which are easily covered on foot -- though you'll want to hop a motorbike taxi or cab to cross the length of a district. District 1 is home to the central Ben Thanh Market and includes the city's most busy commercial area, Dong Khoi, as well as the backpacker district of Pham Ngu Lao. District 1 is flanked to the east and south by the Saigon River, which is where Dong Khoi Street terminates and marks the boundary of the most developed part of the city. Saigon's sightseeing attractions are spread among districts 1, 3, and 5 (Cholon). District 3 is just north and west of the central Dong Khoi area and is home to many foreign business offices and embassies. District 5 is a fair ride west of the town center and supports the city's large ethnic Chinese population, a number of older temples, and a market area.
Language Study
Saigon Vietnamese Language School for Foreigners (41 Dinh Tien Hoang St., District 1; tel. 08/825-1027; fax 08/910-5673) has courses for anyone from beginner to expert, for long or short stays.
