Lin Heung Tea House

Description:

• This is a throwback to another era, opened more than 80 years ago and one of the few teahouses still selling dim sum from trolleys. Walk past the ground-floor pastry shop and up the stairs, where you'll find a very simple room that's packed no matter what the time of the day. You're supposed to find your own seat (though a waiter may take pity on you and help you find an empty chair), and most likely you'll share a table. There's no English menu, but the women manning the trolleys are more than willing to show you what's inside their baskets. The house specialty is dai bao, or big chicken buns (fluffy dough filled with chicken, dried mushroom, and salted yolk), but only 100 or so are baked each morning and they disappear almost as soon as they arrive from the kitchen. My table mates at one lunch, a couple of elderly gentlemen who meet up here every day, took me under their wing, made recommendations, and flagged down the trolley ladies to make sure I got what I wanted. In all, a vastly more enjoyable experience than I would have had sitting at a table by myself.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010