Senior tour for the restless retired

Our Local Expert Says:

Reknowned Hong Kong style breakfast place, all day tea restaurant with steamed milk and egg whites, tea sets. Fascinating service speed, long lines and complete Chinese crowd. Staff know how much you ought to pay simply by a glimpse at your plates. The scrambled eggs are nothing like anything you will have tasted elsewhere.

Description:

Very reknowned Hong Kong style all day breakfast place, all day tea restaurant with steamed milk and egg whites, tea sets. Fascinating service speed, long lines and complete Chinese crowd. Staff know how much you ought to pay simply by a glimpse at your plates. The scrambled eggs are nothing like anything you will have tasted elsewhere.

Description:

To China this may seem like a rather insignificant everyday happening, but to a westerner, seeing hundreds of voluntary Tai Chi devotees going through the paces is quite the Kodak moment. Each morning in the rising mist of dawn Victoria Park fills with the concentrated focus of Tai Chai disciples, who, through their movement, seemingly match the silent feel of the moment. It is not only a spectacle of sight, but also of Chinese culture in general.

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This traditional Tin Hau Temple is one of the most popular sites for the filming of Hong Kong gangster movies. Located just a block north of the Jade Market, it is yet another one of the many temples in Hong Kong dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea. The public square of this temple complex is a favourite place for Chinese chess players and acts as the communal heart of Yaumatei. In front of the main temple, there is a row of fortune-tellers, who are only to keen to help temple visitors see into the future.

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Tung Choi Street (Ladies Market) and Fa Yuen Street are the essence of Mong Kok, Ladies market is probably the most famous street market in Hong Kong for tourists. Fa Yuen street sells sports-shoes and later turns into an outlet street market that locals tend to visit more. Mong Kok used to be a Mango Plantation Village and it is difficult to imagine now, Mong Kok has the reputation of being the most densely populated urban areas in the world. Pedestrian traffic is amazing so the best way to absorb its atmosphere is simply to walk the streets. Cars and people fight for road space, nothing is considered a traffic jam because most of the time the cars are just waiting for people to finish crossing. Rather than Nathan Road, take Sai Yeung Choi Street South, although hardly glamourous or relaxing, Mong Kok oozes with life and character. You should go in the evening after dark because then you can see the shop signs lit up in all kinds of neon lights in Chinese - just like what you see on postcards.

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Originally, the bird market was on Hong Lok Street, but it relocated to this Chinese-style bird garden on Yuen Po Street. There are hundreds of birds on display and the price of a bird is often decided by how well the bird sings. Apart from the birds, there are also other accessories for sale, including bamboo and teak cages, ceramic water vessels and food containers, and different types of bird food, including live crickets sold by the bag-full.

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One of the National Geographic Traveler "fifty places of a lifetime" – crossing the Victoria Harbour in Star Ferry. The Star Ferry has preserved its original looks, feel and smell since the 1960s era when Star Ferries were the main form of transport for Hong Kongers to cross the harbor between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon. What is meant by a Star Ferry trip is the main line from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central. Gaze up at Hong Kong's majestic skyline, which is an erratic stretch of skyscrapers, hotels and apartment blocks. The nighttime views, when Hong Kong glitters like a diamond, are a dramatic Red Neon lights and Golden glitter reflected against the lapping waters. As the cheapest therapy in town, few people disembark in anything but the lightest of moods.

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No visit to Hong Kong is complete without a visit to the Peak. What is the most authentic way of getting there? The Peak Tram no doubt. Before the Peak Tram opened, hardly anyone travelled to the Peak. Part of the experience is watching the faces of tourists glow with delight as they climb the steepest slopes of Victoria Peak on the Tram. The Tram, which is itself an attraction, dates back to 1888 with new and larger cars installed in 1989. These cars are pulled by 1,500m steel cables wound on drums. Passengers sit back for a literally vertical ride enjoying panoramic views as the car steadily makes its way to the top. The Peak Tram station is located right opposite the Hong Kong US Embassy and the best way to get to the Tram station would be to take the bus. Expect long queues if you go right before 7pm, the peak is a tourist haven and you will be able to take postcard pictures of Victoria Harbour line.

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Built in 1855, and extensively redesigned during the wartime occupation by the Japanese, Government House has been home to 25 British governors until 1997. Today, it is used for entertaining VIPs, and for fund-raising events. Government House is closed to the public, but it throws open its doors for one Sunday in March every year, allowing the populace an opportunity to view the gardens filled with beautiful azaleas. Alternatively, the 46th floor of the The Bank of China Tower is a great place for a birds-eye view of this monument to Hong Kong's colonial history.

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If you haven't been to Victoria Peak (also known simply as the 'Peak'), then you haven't been to Hong Kong! All visitors to Hong Kong should go to the Peak for panoramic views of the city, which have to be amongst the most spectacular in the world, especially at night. A walk around the Peak reveals further scenic vistas over the greener western parts of Hong Kong Island, and the viewing platforms on top of the Peak Tower and Peak Galleria are a must for anyone with a camera. A tram will get you to the top. You can check the website for specific details.

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This café is very popular with the hordes of tourists who scale Victoria Peak to witness one of the most impressive views in urban Asia, the view over Victoria Harbour. With a 1930s New York theme, the centre of attention is the long bar counter, an original from a bar in Queens District of New York, and it is advisable to book early to reserve a window seat! The East-meets-West inspired menu, although not cheap, features lots of tasty steaks, salads, vegetarian dishes, and an extensive wine-list.

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This is an easy one-hour walk along the pedestrian road that snakes its way round the famous Victoria Peak. On offer are spectacular views of Victoria Harbour and the outlying islands, whilst passing by a number of beautiful villas built in the early days of Hong Kong. You can take the historic Peak Tram from Central to the starting point of the 2.8 kilometre walk. When you reach the Peak, start either from Lugard Road or Harlech Road.

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The Jade Market, just west of Nathan Road on the junction of Kansu and Battery Streets, is where vendors sell various shades and qualities of jade, a greenish stone found in East Asia. Actually more a place for locals than for tourists, visitors may have to suffer a long bargaining session with persistent vendors before arriving at a good deal for a high-quality piece of jade. Nevertheless, there are also plenty of trinkets and souvenirs at much lower prices.

Our Local Expert Says:

Famous Vietnamese restaurant amongst locals. Its been featured in numerous TV talk shows and its tangy fishsauce is home-made so be sure to dip anything in it. In particular, stir-fried beef cubes with red rice, lemongrass porkchop rice noodles, sping rolls, lemongrass marinated chicken wings and Beef bowls are infamous. Expect a huge crowd even on weekdays.

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Lo Chiu has been a mainstay for many years for locals who want authentic Vietnamese dishes. It's a great place for lunch or dinner after shopping in Tsim Sha Tsui. Start with the assorted appetizer platter, then the garlic bread with Vietnamese curry, garlic fried chicken wings, shrimp rice-noodle spring rolls, the fried spring rolls and the soft-shell crab for the main dishes. It's best to go in a group so you can sample the wide variety of dishes.

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For its titillating past, Kowloon City Walled City Park is a poor remnant of what the place used to be as a triad stronghold, notorious for its excess of brothels, casinos, opium dens, cocaine parlors and secret factories. During its heydays, authorities turned a blind eye towards the squatter settlement. Over the years, many films depicted Kowloon City Walled City when they wanted to convey a sense of ominous foreboding. Square buildings folded up into one another as thousands of modifications were made, virtually none by architects or engineers, until the entire City became monolithic. In 1992, after all 30,000 inhabitants of the drug-ridden high-rise slums on the 90-by-100 meter site had been re-housed, the area was cleared to make way for the park with its old almshouse and Chinese-style gardens. Nowadays it is underground triad fights are no longer seen around the area, instead replaced by the old who sit in the park, remembering the old days. In the park itself the stone plaques from the Old South Gate remain and are the only remainder of what Kowloon City Walled City used to be.

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The Hong Kong Film Archive has been established for the preservation and research of local films. The main functions include collecting and documenting film prints and related materials, and publishing film biographies. The archive houses a 110-seat cinema, an exhibition hall, a research and study centre with individual viewing booths, cold storage for film prints, conservation laboratories, and a computerized cataloguing system recording film-o-graphic and technical information. Screenings, exhibitions and lectures on special topics are held throughout the year.

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This new museum of history, art and culture is the largest of its kind in Hong Kong. There are 12 exhibition galleries built around open courtyards, giving the appearance of a traditional Chinese palace. Galleries are dedicated to the history and culture of the New Territories, Cantonese opera, Chinese culture and contemporary Hong Kong art and design. Programmes are also provided to engage visitors in educational experiences. Admission prices vary according to age and are lower for groups of twenty or more. Free admission on Wednesdays.

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After Wong Tai Sin Temple, the Che Kung Temple is probably the second most popular temple in Hong Kong. The Che Kung Festival, held on the third day of the Chinese New Year, sees thousands of worshippers gathering here and pray for good fortune. People will line up to light their ceremonial tributes and turn a bronze prayer-wheel in a clockwise direction to avert bad luck and hope for a "good-turn" of fortune in the coming year. Colourful paper spinning wheels, which may bring good luck to your home, are available from the many stalls outside the temple.

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Rural furniture and farm implements are on display in this converted 200-year-old Hakka village house. The Hakkas--meaning "guest people"--arrived from central and southern China centuries ago and are among Hong Kong's earliest residents and landowners. Hakka women were forbidden from inheriting land so that ownership could be retained through the male's family. The museum is located in Hong Kong Island's easternmost district, where tourists are a rarity. Take the MTR Island line to Chai Wan and then follow signs for exit B and the museum, which is a five to 10 minute walk from the station.

Admission: Free.

Description:

Hong Kong's most popular place of worship because of its reputed good blessings. Or wishes almost exclusively centered around money. People flock here to earn enough merit for a big win at the horse races, the lottery or any other windfall the powerful Wong Tai Sin, god of good fortune and healing, may bestow. Even if you aren't a temple fan, this really is the one to visit, simply to watch the crowds of devotees. It's a crowded, colorful spectacle and famed for its soothsayers Wong Tai Sin Temple was founded on the lower slopes of Kowloon Hills over half a century ago after a shepherd boy gained immortality through his good deeds and mystical healing powers. Tossing a bamboo can full of joss sticks and make offering of food or fruit, which isn't left behind because the god is never that hungry and no one wants good food to go to waste.

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Popular for decades, Yung Kee started out in 1942 as a small shop selling roast goose, which did so well that it soon expanded into a very successful Cantonese enterprise. Through the years, it has won numerous food awards and is the only restaurant in Hong Kong ever to be included in Fortune magazine's top 15 restaurants of the world (although, it must be added, the award was back in 1968). Its specialty is still roast goose with plum sauce, cooked to perfection with tender meat on the inside and crispy skin on the outside; a half bird, enough for five or six people, costs HK$210 (US$27/£14), while a smaller portion for two people costs HK$120 (US$16/£7.80; note that goose is pulled from the menu any time there's an avian flu scare). Other specialties include thousand-year-old eggs and any of the fresh seafood, like braised garoupa tail. Dining is on one of the upper three floors, but if all you want is a bowl of congee or takeout, join the office workers who pour in for a quick meal on the informal ground floor.

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In the midst of some formidable modern architecture stands the neo-classical structure of the Legco Building. The Goddess of Justice above the main entrance dates back 1912 when the building was originally opened as the Supreme Court. In the early 1980s the Legislative Council took over occupancy. Many of the Legislative Council meetings are open to the public, which is a great way to get a look inside this old colonial beauty. Check out the Legco website to see what is on and then call during office hours to reserve a seat.

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In order to experience some true traditional Hong Kong markets, Li Yuen Street East and West are the two mystically cobblestone alley way streets that juxtapose the glitzy skyscraper area of Central. From dried salted fish, preserved Duck Eggs, sauces to export outlet clothing, key chains, cashmere cardigans, shoes and tourist knick knacks these two streets are a must visit if you are at Central and are designated by the Hong Kong Tourism Board as sights not to be missed. At discounted prices and with plenty of choice, some clothing stores are not to be missed. Best times to visit Li Yuen Street East and West would be during the afternoon because some stalls do not start business until 3pm. Ask anybody after getting out of Central MTR Station exit D how to get to

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This is where you buy the antique prints to go with that Ming altar table you purchased down the road. This gallery specialises in antique maps, most recently showing ones that reflected the 16th to 19th century discoveries made by explorers Cook, La Perouse, Bougainville and Vancouver.

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Shambala's primary business is selling antique and reproduction furniture, rugs and statues from Tibet, Burma, Mongolia, Korea, Thailand, Vietnam and the Himalayas. The 25,000 square foot space is beautifully laid-out, and there is even a handy coffee and snack bar on the premises. A journey all the way to this gallery would not be wasted, particularly as 27-floor warehouse building, in which the Shambala Sculpture Gallery is located, is chock-full of furniture and accessories stores. There is even a toy store to keep the children occupied.

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This secluded cafe located in Central is a fun place to relax with a coffee. The interior is clean and bright, allowing ample room for the ten or so customers that can be seated at any one time. Coffee and tea cost are available and various snacks and simple meals will abate the hunger pangs. Breakfast is the best deal so if you are staying in the vicinity and like a big meal at the start of the day--or the end, depending on your particular nocturnal habits--then this is a great diner for stocking up on energy.

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Carved along the hillside was built in 1844 for the British regiment attached there and named after the holly wood trees that used to line the street. It winds its way down from the upper section of "Central" into the heart of Sheung Wan at Queen's Road West, and makes for a fascinating stroll. At night, the upper part of Hollywood Road is home to crowds and crowds of young and professional groups of people come and party in the clubs of SoHo (South of Hollywood Road). Soho is gaining a growing reputation as the place to seen partying. The Western District of the road are lined with dozens of antique stores and other shops selling all manner of merchandise. Here you can buy snuff bottles, carpets, bird cages ornate name seals that are made to order, paintings etc. Most of the stores are for the serious collector but as move farther and farther down west, the glass fronted stores with expensive displays give way to traditional Chinese knickknacks or making and selling coffin, funeral wreaths and antique reproduction.

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Located on a prime floor of a premier Central shopping centre, the Altfield Gallery's main business is selling one-off antique Chinese furniture pieces and Southeast Asian sculpture. Its particular speciality, however, is Asian-themed prints and maps, such as the rare, individually hand-coloured prints of 1840s Hong Kong restored from copper plates drawn by Lieutenant L.G. Heath of H.M. Iris. What is interesting to note is that these prints are primarily sourced from Europe!

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This scenic trail is a must for anyone remotely interested in Hong Kong's living heritage. Taking about half a day, the trail winds its way though green fields and walled villages. Along the route there is also the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall and Tin Hau Kung to be seen. For total tranquillity, it is best to take the trail on a weekday when there is barely a soul about (weekends are accompanied by busloads of tourists). Pick up the informative Hong Kong Tourist Association trail leaflet before you go and enjoy a gentle walk.

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Situated within the Ko Shan Road Park in Tokwawan, what was once an amphitheater has been rebuilt to create the Ko Shan theater. Opened in October 1996, the air-conditioned block houses rehearsal facilities, committee rooms and exhibition facilities. The refurbished and upgraded auditorium can seat over 1,000 people, and the Ko Shan theater is the major venue for local groups and, once a year, all the local bands gather together for their annual concert.

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Stanley used to be common fishing village located on the southernmost part of the Island and now has developed to be a famous tourist spot. The main transport that takes you to Stanley would be the buses. Stanley is typically referred to as Stanley Market. A great place to hunt for keychains with English to Chinese names, Chinese calligraphy pens, tourist jade pendants and plenty of souvenir T-shirts. One of the best T-shirts read "I am lost in Hong Kong". If shopping is tiring, there are places to relax and enjoy the view, with rows of bars and restaurants along Stanley's waterfront for you to fill your stomach. A visit to Stanley would not be complete without making a trip to the 18th century Tin Hau Temple and its two beaches: Stanley Main Beach and St. Stephen's Beach, on the western side. Both beaches are sandy and rocky. A better choice to take a short trip to the nearby Deep Water Bay for swimming.

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Sai Kung is located on the east side of the New Territories and is a popular destination for fishing, swimming, picnicking, hiking, camping and boating. Visitors can hire Sampans (small taxi-boats) for leisurely harbour trips or stroll around Sai Kung's town centre, which hosts a fresh-fish market displaying various kinds of seafood in big tanks. Customers can pick whatever fish they fancy, take it to a nearby restaurant of their choice and request the fish to be cooked in a certain way. After that, it is just a case of relaxing until the sumptuous seafood feast is served!

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The giant bronze Buddha Statue at Po Lin Monastery is the biggest seated, outdoor image of its kind in the world - is Lantau's number one attraction. Despite the hordes and tour buses full of tourists who flock there and the often themepark like atmosphere, it's difficult not to be impressed by the grandeur of standing right next to the Big Buddha. The Buddha is not the fat, jolly Buddha often portrayed in tacky souvenirs. Avoid the weekends, but you can stay overnight at the monastery's dormitories and wander the temple grounds early next morning. Whilst you are at Bid Buddha, why not take some time to tour "Lantau" Island as well?

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What would you expect to find next door to the Big Buddha? The answer is, of course, the largest Buddhist monastery in Hong Kong. Once a peaceful haven for Buddhist monks, this monastery is now firmly on the tourist trail. Wander around the temples, take in the views of the surrounding lush countryside and do not forget to sample some of the vegetarian cooking served by the monks in a huge dining hall. Try to get to the monastery via Mui Wo, and you will experience a truly hair-raising bus journey along narrow, steep and windy roads. Great fun!

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The fact that this establishment fills up regularly, means that latecomers, especially during dinner time, will most likely find themselves sharing a table with others. Worse yet, the kitchen tends to run out of its popular chicken dishes by about 9pm. But there are many other delicacies to chose from even though you should scrutinize the menu carefully as prices can be quite expensive.

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Joe Banana's might well be one of the most well known bars in Asia. The security is usually heavy and beautiful people in expensive shoes are everywhere, especially on the dance floor where everyone heaves together to Ricky Martin and Aqua.

A strict dress code (no T-shirts, sandals or shorts) keeps out the riff-raff and attracts well-heeled party people happy to pay the HK$100 cover charge.

The usual international menu offers salads, pizzas and burgers, and lunchtime deals make the prices attractive too.

Happy Hour: 11.30am-10pm (two for the price of one).

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There is only one way to get to Cheung Chau, which literally translates to Long Island, and that is by ferry from the Central Ferry pier. As you approach Cheung Chau it isn't hard to guess what the main occupation of the thriving local community is by looking at the crowded harbour full of traditional Chinese fishing boats all sizes. Numerous seafood restaurants line the quayside to take advantage of the fresh daily catches, and visitors should do the same! For forty dollars per dish, the seafood dishes are delicious and authentically Chinese. If Chinese seafood doesn't seem filling enough Fish balls, fried chicken, tofu dessert are extremely delicious local Cheung Chau snacks. Rent a bicycle and bike around the island for the best experience of the "old China" way. Infamous Cheung Po Chai little cave retreat, as legend says, is where the infamous pirate keeps his loot and is worth exploring. Once a year the whole island community comes together for The big Bun Festival. This is when Pak Tai Temple is the focus of the frenzied four-day Bun Festival in late April or early May. Alternatively, there are always beaches to head for. Tung Wan Beach is popular, but try hiking to Tung Wan Tsai for a little more seclusion.