Madras Pavillion

Description:

• The way I see it, no one does vegetarian as well as the Indians, especially those of the south. They've had centuries of practice and know what they're doing. As evidence, I would offer this restaurant -- an unassuming establishment tucked into a strip center on Kirby. It's a good choice as a respite from steaks, fajitas, barbecue, and other Texas specialties. The food is mouthwatering, and there's plenty to choose from: curries, different flavored rices, delicacies such as masala dosai (rice flour crepes filled with a deliciously spiced mixture of potatoes and onion) with or without chutney, paneer (cottage cheese curds usually cooked in spinach), a full range of Indian bread, including the puffy channa batura, served with chickpea curry, and a spicy pizzalike dish, uthappam. Most of these are spicy, but there is also much to choose from that is mild. With such variety, you would do well to go midday, when you can try a bit of everything from the lunch buffet ($8 on weekdays, $10 on weekends). Service can be slow.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010