Best of "cheap & chic" in Istanbul

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the oldest "bol-kepce" artisan restaurants / diners of Istanbul.

Description:

Kanaat Restaurant is one of the oldest diners in Istanbul, serving traditional Turkish / Ottoman cuisine samples. Given that there are few other points of interest in Üsküdar and around this restaurant, you normally wouldn't make a special trip to come and dine here unless you happen to be on this side of town for business or special sightseeing -such as visiting a unique mosque, hammam or palace. Nonetheless, it is also said among the locals that "there are only two reasons to go to Üsküdar: 1. to take the ferry 2. for Kanaat Restaurant". Indeed, locals on the Anatolian side visit this bustling, semi-historic eatery quite often for a quick lunch or an informal dinner and dine on pre-prepared main courses. It must yet be noted that some locals also lament in nostalgia that Kanaat as it is today is incomparable to its original establishment back in 1900s. There are some fairly ambitious and oily dishes such as Elbasan Tava—large chunks of juicy beef with melted local cheddar cheese, farm fresh eggs and a combination of seasonal vegetables-, Stuffed Onions -a specialty of Kanaat, unlikely to be found anywere else-, Özbek Rice -rice cooked together with lamb-chomps and dried onions-, Milk Pudding or Custard with ice-cream, Pumpkin Pie and more. You are advised to carry cash as you arrive, they are unlikely to accept credit cards.

Our Local Expert Says:

Typical eatery / diner in the Sultanahmet with tradition and history

Description:

Sultanahmet is painfully short of high-quality eateries, but Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi has a constant stream of locals and tourists queuing out the door and down the street. It's strictly a fast food-style köfte restaurant. The tasty walnut sized meatballs are grilled to perfection over a great open-flame ocak (grill). Waiters literally run from table to table serving huge helpings of köfte accompanied by crusty bread, crispy green salad, fluffy rice and excellent white-bean salad (piyaz). The restaurant has been around 80 years, hence its name which means, "Historical Sultan Ahmet Köfte Restaurant."

Description:

Although mistakenly immortalized as a dark 60s hippie drug den in '24:00 Express', it's now hard to comprehend that the Pudding Shop fed an entire generation of long-haired flower power babies traveling the overland hippie trail to India over 30 years ago. Idris Çölpan opened the shop in 1954 as a bakery and pudding shop and soon found himself dispensing food, loving care and the occasional bed to out-of-luck hippies. He was also the first man in Turkey to import Nescafé. These days, you push your tray along a stainless steel counter choosing cheap, unexceptional Turkish fare. It's only really memorable as an historical footnote.

Description:

Adem Baba is a little, cosy fish restaurant in Arnavutköy. If the metaphor suits itself right, it is infact the Le Relais de l'Entrecôte of Istanbul -taking no reservations in advance and making people wait in line to eat its fresh and daily products. Its fish soup, which is only available on Sundays is one of its fineprints.

Description:

"Variety is the spice of life"—this might as well be the motto of the Beyoglu branch of the House Café restaurant. And if contemporary cuisine is on your mind, this is by far the best bet. You can grab pizzas, salads, burgers and cocktails here. The decor at this joint—courtesy the Autobahn design agency—includes an ensemble of furniture from different countries.

Description:

If it is a party atmosphere you want - accompanied by fine beers, great food and wicked bar staff - then you will have found your Utopia at Baykus. If it's a crazy night of raucous singing and wild dancing you're after then make sure you find yourself in the bar at around 11p - the guys or gals of your dreams may already be here! Push aside red velvet drapes and step onto varnished plank floors surrounded by turquoise banquettes, ochre walls and original artwork. The light jazz on the CD player creates a sophisticated atmosphere which pleases the fussy theatre/publishing/performing arts crowd that gathers here. The menu features gastronomic delights such as carpaccio and fancy pasta dışhes.

Description:

Named after the famous French novelist, the elegant Pierre Loti Hotel is a short walk from the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia and all of the other historical monuments nearby. Nearby you'll find the bustling Covered Bazaar with its endless lanes and alleys filled with shops selling all manner of Türkish treasures and the historical Cemberlitas Hamam is not far down the street. The Pierre Loti Hotel is a three-star hotel with very comfortable facilities and near to public transport.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most famous avenues of Istanbul and one of the most lively

Description:

This 2-mile pedestrian boulevard is a must-stroll for any visitor to Istanbul. Formerly known as the Grande Rue de Péra, the street's name was changed to İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) after Turkish independence was declared in 1923. The grand boulevard's turn-of-the-century European-style façades are well cared for, and the shops and restaurants that line the promenade are not extremely touristy or expensive. If you start at Taksim Square, İstiklal Caddesi will lead you all the way to the neighborhood home to the famous Galata Tower. Before you reach Galata, you'll pass through Karaköy, where you can see (and ride, for all of two stops) the world's second-oldest subway, the Tünel. One of İstiklal's side streets is the old Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage). Along another offshoot you'll find a slew of independent shops selling handcrafted musical instruments. İstiklal Caddesi is also your point of entry to the famous Balık Pazarı (Fish Market). Obviously, the huge boulevard is full of history and mystery, so leave no cobblestone unturned!

Description:

One of the most enjoyable ways to travel in Istanbul! Traditional ferry boats travel convenient routes up, down, and across the Bosphorous, connecting Karakoy, Eminonu, and Besiktas on the European shore with Uskudar, Haydarpasa, and Kadikoy on the Asian side. A lovely parade of great, ancient mansions which line up both sides of the coast, a romantic escapade under crimson moonlight, no better way to seize the sea-water-canal of this city which divides it apart.

Our Local Expert Says:

Summer-time day trip

Description:

In Turkish, "adalar" simply means "islands" - though adalar are very familiar territory for Istanbulites, which island you are referring to is still quite important since many Istanbullites use the islands as their summer residence and have a genuine circle of relatives and friends there. Probably the most popular day trip option from Istanbul, at least in the summer, the Princes' Islands are comprised of seven small islands, four of which (Büyükada, Kınalıada, Burgazada and Heybeliada) have constant summertime service by ferry from Kabataş and Bostanci. The islands offer treasures of history (Byzantine churches and Greek and Turkish ruins), green parks, and various upscale restaurants and hotels. As no cars are allowed onto the islands, you would be better off renting a horse-backed carriage to go from one part to another; or to arrive on the islands dressed casually and renting a bike. The islands are a wonderful retreat from bustling Istanbul, each with its own unique character and pace of life.