Democrats Abroad Istanbul

Our Local Expert Says:

The piece de resistance of Istanbul - a breathtaking building both on the outside and inside. Steeped in history, this building is the building to see in Istanbul.

Description:

The magnificent Hagia Sophia was originally built by Justinian and used as a church for 916 years. It then became a mosque for 481 years and Ataturk declared it a museum in 1935. Considered the first and last unique application in terms of its architecture, magnificence and functionality, it has been the inspiration for Ottoman mosques for countless centuries. The incredible frescoes and mosaics in the upper gallery, despite being damaged, are among the most visited sites in the city. The Hagia Sophia is the number one must-see.

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Yerebatan Sarayi translates into English as the 'Sinking Palace'. It's Istanbul's largest underground cistern and the only one renovated and opened for public viewing. Today Yerebatan Sarayi is a major tourist attraction and offers cool respite from Istanbul's searing summer heat. Pulsing lights, water dripping from the ceiling and eerie music played over strategically placed speakers add an air of mystery to the place. Note the two large Medusa heads supporting columns on the north side of the cistern. Wooden walkways allow visitors to view the whole cistern.

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The Egyptian Obelisk the oldest monument in the city and has always been considered magical. The obelisk rests on four bronze blocks on a Roman base decorated with reliefs. These depict the emperor, his children and other prominent personalities watching the races from the imperial box, as well as the spectators, musicians, dancers and chariot races. The obelisk measures 25.60 m including the base.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most beautiful buildings in the world. An absolute must while in Istanbul.

Description:

Dubbed the "Blue Mosque" by Europeans because of its beautiful interior tiles with flower and tree motifs manufactured at the end of the high period of the great Iznik workshops, this is the only mosque in the world with six minarets. Built by Ahmet I between 1609 and 1616, the architect was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, one of Mimar Sinan's most prominent students. The dome is 23.5 meters wide and 43 meters high. The shrine near the mosque houses the tombs of Ahmet I and his wife Kosem Sultan. On the east side of the mosque is the Arasta, a bazaar filled with souvenir shops. The Hunkar Mansion at the north side is today's Carpet and Kilim Museum.

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Hippodrome was built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 203 A.D. The hippodrome was a stadium which served as a meeting place for the politicians, for chariot races, wrestling, boxing, and other athletic activities  that took place. The arena was over 400 meters long and 120 meters wide, In the fourth century the spectator capacity was increased to 100,000. Hippodrome square is home to the Egyptian Obelisk, the Constantine Column, the Serpentine Column, and the German Fountian.

Description:

From Tünel at one end to the Galata Tower at the other, the entire street is full of music and musical instruments. Dozens of stores all stock guitars, pianos, traditional instruments like the Cümbüş and Oud, and Turkish cymbals. The street is full of dervishes on weekdays, and the biggest demonstrations of their whirling happen at the Galata Mevlevihanesi, located at the end of the road. This side street is a great place to immerse yourself in the musical culture of Istanbul.

Our Local Expert Says:

Without doubt one of the most historical sights in Istanbul and Turkey at large. Consisting of hundreds of rooms, including the scandalous harem, Topkapi doesn't dissapoint. Plan atleast 4 hours for this - yes, it's THAT big.

Description:

Topkapi Palace, on the Seraglio Peninsula, became a museum in 1924. The Harem, Baghdat Pavilion, Revan Pavilion, Sofa Pavilion, and the Audience Chamber distinguish themselves with their architectural assets, while other artifacts reflect palace life. Gülhane Park is located on the slopes below Topkapi Palace extending to the seashore, and is popular among Istanbul residents for picnicking and open-air concerts. In the park is the Gothic Column, known to have been one of the main obelisks of the Byzantines, and an as yet unclassified, and therefore unofficial, Byzantine ruin.

Our Local Expert Says:

Really one of the more underated things to see. Indeed a must for history buffs!

Description:

The museum consists of three parts: Archaeological Museum (the main building), Museum of the Ancient Orient and Museum of Islamic Art (Tiled Kiosk). There are more than twenty galleries filled with artifacts gathered from all over Turkey and the near east that reminisces 5,000 years of history with exhibits from Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire and the many civilizations of Anatolia and ancient Egypt. The main building houses the finds of nineteenth-century painter and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey, who is also the founder of the museum back in 1891. Other high points include in particular the famous Alexander the Great's tomb, the inscription of Hezikiah's tunnel in Jerusalem and the Kadesh Treaty. The Museum of the Ancient Orient contains artifacts from Egypt and Mesopotamia, including a magnificent frieze of a bull from the Ishtar gate in Babylon.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the landmarks of Turkey, Galata Tower is a must see on your trip. Historically important, and affording views of the whole of Istanbul, this is a site not to be missed. A decent restaurant at the top has nice, but overpriced meals.

Description:

The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower, a cone-capped cylinder that soars high into the sky, dominating the skyline and offering a panoramic view of the Old city of Istanbul. It is thus worth climbing to the top for the view from this 14th century Genoese fortification. Beneath the tower is also a cozy, friendly neighborhood of artisans, artisan restaurants, designer boutiques, galleries and architects' offices. Take your camera and start strolling through the streets. Drop by at Lastik Pabuc Sneaker Store and have a look at unique sneakers; stop for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate at Cherrybeans Coffee Store -chocolates are their own production. The second hand store Second Chance sell unique vintage items, owned by model Ahu Yagtu. Lunch recommended at Kivahan Restaurant -no fix menu, everything is daily prepared.

Our Local Expert Says:

Indeed one of the best art museums in the city - with great views and a smart café to boast!

Description:

Making its debut in 2004, Istanbul Modern is Turkey's first museum dedicated to displaying contemporary art. Located on the Sea of Marmara, the museum is a 86,000 square foot renovated government warehouse that houses abstract paintings, portraits, sculptures and photographs from local artists and public and private collections. Istanbul Modern fuses Turkish and Western aesthetic influences to create a connection between Turkish and European institutions of art. Although the Turkish government has offered some assistance, the museum is privately funded by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts and the Eczacibasi family, who also provides the permanent collection. Attracting 5,000 visitors daily, one of the most popular exhibits at the museum is the "Stairway to Hell" by Monica Bonvicini in 2003, a sculpture featuring chains and bullet-shattered glass. Other exhibits feature work by Fahrelnissa Zeid and Seker Ahmet Pasa. Istanbul Modern will also offer art history programs for children and adults. Admission is free on Thursdays from 10a-2p, and discounts are offered for students and groups.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most famous avenues of Istanbul and one of the most lively

Description:

This 2-mile pedestrian boulevard is a must-stroll for any visitor to Istanbul. Formerly known as the Grande Rue de Péra, the street's name was changed to İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) after Turkish independence was declared in 1923. The grand boulevard's turn-of-the-century European-style façades are well cared for, and the shops and restaurants that line the promenade are not extremely touristy or expensive. If you start at Taksim Square, İstiklal Caddesi will lead you all the way to the neighborhood home to the famous Galata Tower. Before you reach Galata, you'll pass through Karaköy, where you can see (and ride, for all of two stops) the world's second-oldest subway, the Tünel. One of İstiklal's side streets is the old Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage). Along another offshoot you'll find a slew of independent shops selling handcrafted musical instruments. İstiklal Caddesi is also your point of entry to the famous Balık Pazarı (Fish Market). Obviously, the huge boulevard is full of history and mystery, so leave no cobblestone unturned!

Description:

Located on five floors in the heart of Old Pera, the Pera Museum houses a small but solid collection of Kütahya ceramics, Ottoman weights and measures, and Ottoman portraiture from the 18th to the 20th centuries rarely seen outside of Turkey. The portraits alone are worth the price of admission, and a quick lap around the museum can be accomplished in an hour, if you really try hard.

Our Local Expert Says:

An interesting fact is that it has the world's largest chandelier - the size of a small car in fact!

Description:

Imagine a home with 285 rooms, 6 baths (hamam), 68 toilets and a ceiling made of 14 tonnes of gold! The Dolmabahçe Palace built on a reclaimed land is one such marvelous structure, built by the Ottoman Sultan, Abdulmecid between 1853-1922. A guided tour to this splendid palace will be an experience, checking out the modern approach to architecture with an essentially French influence. The rich tastes and splendor of the era is evident in every corner and artifact in the decor. You just can't miss the Bohemian crystal chandelier, the Crystal Staircase or the original bearskin rugs.

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This is the most famous of Istanbul's many hamams. It has remained more or less unchanged since it was built on the orders of Sultan Mahmut I in the mid-18th century. It's a favorite for the makers of TV ads, who consider it an essential element when selling their soapy wares! Celebrity bathers are rumored to have included the likes of Franz Liszt, Florence Nightingale and Tony Curtis. These days, locals make up the majority of its patrons. After a good steaming and massage, there's a pleasant bar-café where you can sip a bracing glass of tea.

Our Local Expert Says:

One could spend a day here, and only see a quarter of what it has to offer. From leather goods to books, and clothes to dishware, the covered bazaar doesn't disappoint. Be sure to try the restaurant up top - this writer hears good things!

Description:

The Kapalıçarsı is Turkey's largest covered market, housing approximately 4000 shops of luxurious Turkish carpets, delicate pottery, shiny brass-ware, handmade nargiles, precious stones, leather goods, lamps and a lot more than one could count or remember. A place as big as this has multiple entrances, though most people enter through the Nuruosmaniye Gate. As is "custom," never settle on the price a dealer quotes. He expects you to haggle with him and you should. Do it amiably and be reasonable (don't ask for more than 50% off), and you're sure to walk away with the article of your choice at a price you can live with. All payments are in cash, and those that take credit cards accept only the major ones. The bazaar also houses restaurants, which are frequented by tourists and locals alike.

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Mimar Sinan is a name synonymous with Turkish architecture, and some would argue he reached his peak upon completion of the Süleymaniye Mosque, considered by many to be the most beautiful mosque in Istanbul. It's also one of the most structurally sound, not having incurred any recognizable damage from earthquakes in 450 years of sitting proudly in the heart of seismically-prone Istanbul. The mosque's most unique characteristics are its bright red and white striped archways, which, rather than lending a candy-cane feel to the place, actually add an aire of elegance to the mosque's interior with their subtlety and symmetry.

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Crossing the Galata Bridge from Karaköy to Eminönü, visitors will be impressed by the towering structure that awaits them: the Yeni Camii. "Yeni" means "new" in Turkish, and, compared to some of the truly ancient sights Istanbul has to offer, this mosque is pretty new, but still provides 350 years of history to dwell on as you admire the grace and austerity of the exterior and the detailed tile-work of the interior. Constructed from the late 16th century to the mid-17th century, this triumphant mosque was commissioned by the royals and designed by Davut Ağa, a pupil of Turkey's most famous architect, Mimar Sinan. The mosque is open to the public from dawn-dusk. Visit respectfully during prayer times.

Description:

The Kariye Museum (Church of the Holy Savior in Chora) has the most amazing Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul. Set aside a few hours to see them. The Kariye Museum served as a mosque for centuries after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best variety of spices

Description:

The Spice Market is one of the oldest covered markets / bazaars of Istanbul. It is an exotic food market selling all sorts of food items from exotic spices, nuts and dried fruits to cheese varieties, Iranian caviar, fruits and vegetables. There are also "well-being" shops and herbalists, which sell body moisturizers, natural anti-cellulite treatment lotions, ant-egg creams for unwanted body hair, scrubbing pads out of fiber for natural peeling and a variety of herbal teas for any other functional or biological problems. Out of the covered market, there is also an animal market, where cutest puppies and new born rabbits mingle together with fish and birds. These markets also sell pet-care items and pet-toys. Spice Market is the second largest covered market after the Grand Bazaar, yet it usually takes shorter to go through its "L" shaped inner structure. Spare nevertheless half a day to sample a variety of food items and shop for souvenirs. Lunch is recommended at Pandeli Restaurant, which is located on the second floor of the market.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most beautiful hamams built - WELL worth it after a hard trek around the city.

Description:

This is the most pleasant of all Istanbul's hamams. You can stretch out flat on the huge round navel stone, and dreamily gaze at the diffractions of shafts of daylight through the steam. The sounds of splashing water and muffled chatter echo around the dome and throughout the hamam. Mimar Sinan built the baths in 1584—they were commissioned by Nurbanu, wife of Sultan Selim the Grim and they have been in continuous service to the public ever since. There are separate sections for men and women. If you've never set foot in a Turkish bath before, this is the perfect place to learn the ropes.

Description:

One of the most enjoyable ways to travel in Istanbul! Traditional ferry boats travel convenient routes up, down, and across the Bosphorous, connecting Karakoy, Eminonu, and Besiktas on the European shore with Uskudar, Haydarpasa, and Kadikoy on the Asian side. A lovely parade of great, ancient mansions which line up both sides of the coast, a romantic escapade under crimson moonlight, no better way to seize the sea-water-canal of this city which divides it apart.

Our Local Expert Says:

Summer-time day trip

Description:

In Turkish, "adalar" simply means "islands" - though adalar are very familiar territory for Istanbulites, which island you are referring to is still quite important since many Istanbullites use the islands as their summer residence and have a genuine circle of relatives and friends there. Probably the most popular day trip option from Istanbul, at least in the summer, the Princes' Islands are comprised of seven small islands, four of which (Büyükada, Kınalıada, Burgazada and Heybeliada) have constant summertime service by ferry from Kabataş and Bostanci. The islands offer treasures of history (Byzantine churches and Greek and Turkish ruins), green parks, and various upscale restaurants and hotels. As no cars are allowed onto the islands, you would be better off renting a horse-backed carriage to go from one part to another; or to arrive on the islands dressed casually and renting a bike. The islands are a wonderful retreat from bustling Istanbul, each with its own unique character and pace of life.

Description:

Galata Mevlevihanesi is a whirling dervish hall in the Tünel Music Quarter at the end of Gallip Dede street. A whirling dervish is the fervent dancing and whirling to traditional Islamic chants and is a worship service unlike any other. The Galata Mevlevihanesi is used by several dervish groups. The octagonal hall is the best place to witness the sema, but tickets cannot be bought on the spot. To avoid disappointment make sure you get your bookings done in advance, or if not in town, get someone from your hotel to get them for you. The performances happen every Sunday and some Saturdays.

Description:

While the caterpillar on a cocoon would be the idea of many a drawings, art is also extended to the cotton in the cocoon. Prominent amongst featured works at Galerist are those of multiple 'British Designer of the Year' award winner, Cypriot Hüseyin Çağlayan (MBE). That doesn't mean the canvas is completely shunned as the Dutch artist Haluk Akakce's works also make their presence felt. Leading the Turkish charge of artists is Leyla Gadiz. If you share the non-enthusiast perception of all art being another brick in the wall, the art here is sure to make you think again.

Our Local Expert Says:

Family-oriented, off-the-beaten path place for Sunday brunches and lunches

Description:

The Silahtarağa Power Plant is the first urban-scale power plant built in Istanbul in the Ottoman period. The power plant has been conserved and renovated by Bilgi University and transformed into a center for culture and arts under the name of Santralistanbul. Santralistanbul is thus conceived of an educational museum, the power plant museum, art galleries, multi-functional areas for workshops of many kinds and two cafes: Tamirane and Otto Santral (branch of the Otto Cafe / Restaurant in Asmali Mescit). It is the perfect place especially for families with young children. The vast open area and the green garden of Tamirane and Otto Santral allows children to run, bike and play; while the families may enjoy a nice Sunday branch or lunch, read the daily paper and their books. The quietness of the place is also extremely seductive for anyone running away from the hectic city life. The day may be ended by a visual tour around the old power plant -which has been kept as it was (no models have been used for public demonstration). For more information about the on-going exhibitions inside the art galleries, please refer to their website.

Description:

This gallery is famously known in Istanbul for representing the major contributors to the world of art. Apel is the home of several aesthetic spaces, and features various Turkish and Ottoman exhibitions spread over five floors. Come to admire marvelous sculptures by sculptors, such as Yücel Kale and Azade Köker. Like many other galleries and museums in Istanbul Galeri Apel is also featuring special shows like the 'Neighbours'. With the various different exhibits that keep changing, this gallery is a Turkish art connoisseur's delight.

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Initiated in September 2001, this center is located in one of the liveliest areas of the city. It facilitates meetings for artists, curators and critics, acting as a stable platform. There are research and lecturing facilities available here and it is also home to an extensive artist archive. The Platform Garanti Contemporary Art Centre encourages art on both a local and international level - it even offers a Residency Program, which is open to international artists, critics and curators. Visitors can enjoy various group and solo exhibitions as well as lectures, workshops and video and film events. So if you are a budding artist, a critic in search of the next big thing or just an interested visitor, head here for a complete arty experience.

Description:

Across from Dolmabahce Palace, Beylerbeyi, the summer home of the Sultans, is lavishly decorated, with a marble fountain and large bathing pool in the main salon surrounded by dozens of impossibly perfect blue and white striped 30-foot-tall marble columns. Quite a summer home! Also intriguing is the upstairs study with astoundingly intricate wooden inlays, as well as the bamboo copse in the gardens, and the fabulous view. Some rooms are more modern than expected, but are an indication of just how recently the Ottoman Empire ended.

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Situated in the heart of Taksim, this center houses the Presidential symphony orchestra, the opera, ballet, and other cultural and artistic events. However, it has been closed down for some time and has thus attracted a lot of protest from the elite population. It is bound to reopen in May 2010.

Description:

The Kösk dates back to the 15th century. It's located a little way up the hill from Gülhane Park—a bit out of the way, but very easy to find. Its structure is slightly less grand than most of the city's hamams, but the amicable staff look after it well. Most of the clientèle are foreigners, mainly guests staying in the hotels nearby. One excellent reason to visit is, although it's usually a men-only establishment, it's possible to arrange after-hours soirées; so families or large groups can soak and steam together. This service includes male masseurs at a negotiable price.

Our Local Expert Says:

Shoppers' haven

Description:

Abdi İpekçi Caddesi is much referred as the "5th Avenue" of Istanbul among locals. Another competing avenue in terms of shopping and larking is the Bagdat Caddesi on the Asian continent. However, if you ask most residents of Istanbul about where to tie up your high-end shopping, the answer is more likely to be on Abdi İpekçi Street. Starting with Channel down the bottom of the street, as one makes his/her way up the "always crowded" Midpoint Cafe and Brandroom, passing aside from the entrance of the legendary Reasurans Passage (where locally managed small boutiques selling old season La Perla and high end La Scarpa are found together with some of the best restaurants of Nişantaşı, such as Zanzibar and Assk) and reaching slowly slowly to Louis Vuitton and Prada...

As if that was not all of it, the side streets running across are filled with more variety and choice; as well as affordability in terms of price. A place all shoppers should visit before they go back home.

Description:

Situated on a cobbled alley in between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the "Green House" is a luxurious Ottoman mansion restored by the TTAA. Surrounded by trees and gardens, it has the feel of a grand country house. Every room is tastefully decorated with 19th century antique furniture, wood-paneled ceilings, exquisite parquet flooring and beautiful antique rugs. The Pasha's Room, or Room 31, has its own en suite Turkish bath. The shady garden is the venue for a popular outdoor café and restaurant. Advance booking is essential.