Istanbul for the "History Freaks"

Our Local Expert Says:

Built from the former Sultanahmet prison, this is hands down the best hotel in Istanbul. The prices certainly reflect that, but it's well worth the splurge.

Description:

With its rich tile and stone work, plush tapestries and antiques, it is difficult to believe that this luxury hotel was once a prison! Now the Four Seasons Hotel in Istanbul is a celebration of architecture with its one of a kind rooms and glass-enclosed courtyard. Located near historical buildings like Byzantine Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, as well as commercial bazaars, it's right where all the action is. Check in to one of the many elegant and intimate guest rooms or suites, and then start exploring this exotic city at your own pace. Avail of the many facilities at the hotel, including a spa, health club, golf and tennis, or have an elegant meal at their in-house restaurant. Contact the Four Seasons today to work out an arrangement that suits you and your family best.

Description:

Designed by former circus owners, one of the many eccentric features of the Kybele is the 1000-plus vintage glass lamps hanging from the ceilings. Each of the 16 smallish bedrooms, brimming with colorful kilims, antique candlestands, colorful old bottles and various other trinkets, are very comfortable and are fitted with elegant marble en suite bathrooms. Pink and green walls complement the whole garish effect. Every morning, breakfast is served in a colorful courtyard.

Description:

Named after the famous French novelist, the elegant Pierre Loti Hotel is a short walk from the Blue Mosque, Haghia Sophia and all of the other historical monuments nearby. Nearby you'll find the bustling Covered Bazaar with its endless lanes and alleys filled with shops selling all manner of Türkish treasures and the historical Cemberlitas Hamam is not far down the street. The Pierre Loti Hotel is a three-star hotel with very comfortable facilities and near to public transport.

Description:

Hippodrome was built by the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus in 203 A.D. The hippodrome was a stadium which served as a meeting place for the politicians, for chariot races, wrestling, boxing, and other athletic activities  that took place. The arena was over 400 meters long and 120 meters wide, In the fourth century the spectator capacity was increased to 100,000. Hippodrome square is home to the Egyptian Obelisk, the Constantine Column, the Serpentine Column, and the German Fountian.

Description:

The Egyptian Obelisk the oldest monument in the city and has always been considered magical. The obelisk rests on four bronze blocks on a Roman base decorated with reliefs. These depict the emperor, his children and other prominent personalities watching the races from the imperial box, as well as the spectators, musicians, dancers and chariot races. The obelisk measures 25.60 m including the base.

Description:

Yerebatan Sarayi translates into English as the 'Sinking Palace'. It's Istanbul's largest underground cistern and the only one renovated and opened for public viewing. Today Yerebatan Sarayi is a major tourist attraction and offers cool respite from Istanbul's searing summer heat. Pulsing lights, water dripping from the ceiling and eerie music played over strategically placed speakers add an air of mystery to the place. Note the two large Medusa heads supporting columns on the north side of the cistern. Wooden walkways allow visitors to view the whole cistern.

Description:

One of the few consistently good, high-quality restaurants in a neighborhood of amateurs, Balikçi Sabahattin is still cranking out top-quality treasures from the sea for eager fans. Meals are served alfresco on the cobbled streets in summer. When the air turns crisp, diners fill the many rooms of this restored 1927 house. Don't pass up the tahini ice cream, and what you can't finish you can feed to one of the hungry kittens milling about.

Our Local Expert Says:

Without doubt one of the most historical sights in Istanbul and Turkey at large. Consisting of hundreds of rooms, including the scandalous harem, Topkapi doesn't dissapoint. Plan atleast 4 hours for this - yes, it's THAT big.

Description:

Topkapi Palace, on the Seraglio Peninsula, became a museum in 1924. The Harem, Baghdat Pavilion, Revan Pavilion, Sofa Pavilion, and the Audience Chamber distinguish themselves with their architectural assets, while other artifacts reflect palace life. Gülhane Park is located on the slopes below Topkapi Palace extending to the seashore, and is popular among Istanbul residents for picnicking and open-air concerts. In the park is the Gothic Column, known to have been one of the main obelisks of the Byzantines, and an as yet unclassified, and therefore unofficial, Byzantine ruin.

Our Local Expert Says:

Typical eatery / diner in the Sultanahmet with tradition and history

Description:

Sultanahmet is painfully short of high-quality eateries, but Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi has a constant stream of locals and tourists queuing out the door and down the street. It's strictly a fast food-style köfte restaurant. The tasty walnut sized meatballs are grilled to perfection over a great open-flame ocak (grill). Waiters literally run from table to table serving huge helpings of köfte accompanied by crusty bread, crispy green salad, fluffy rice and excellent white-bean salad (piyaz). The restaurant has been around 80 years, hence its name which means, "Historical Sultan Ahmet Köfte Restaurant."

Description:

Although mistakenly immortalized as a dark 60s hippie drug den in '24:00 Express', it's now hard to comprehend that the Pudding Shop fed an entire generation of long-haired flower power babies traveling the overland hippie trail to India over 30 years ago. Idris Çölpan opened the shop in 1954 as a bakery and pudding shop and soon found himself dispensing food, loving care and the occasional bed to out-of-luck hippies. He was also the first man in Turkey to import Nescafé. These days, you push your tray along a stainless steel counter choosing cheap, unexceptional Turkish fare. It's only really memorable as an historical footnote.

Our Local Expert Says:

The piece de resistance of Istanbul - a breathtaking building both on the outside and inside. Steeped in history, this building is the building to see in Istanbul.

Description:

The magnificent Hagia Sophia was originally built by Justinian and used as a church for 916 years. It then became a mosque for 481 years and Ataturk declared it a museum in 1935. Considered the first and last unique application in terms of its architecture, magnificence and functionality, it has been the inspiration for Ottoman mosques for countless centuries. The incredible frescoes and mosaics in the upper gallery, despite being damaged, are among the most visited sites in the city. The Hagia Sophia is the number one must-see.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most beautiful buildings in the world. An absolute must while in Istanbul.

Description:

Dubbed the "Blue Mosque" by Europeans because of its beautiful interior tiles with flower and tree motifs manufactured at the end of the high period of the great Iznik workshops, this is the only mosque in the world with six minarets. Built by Ahmet I between 1609 and 1616, the architect was Sedefkar Mehmet Aga, one of Mimar Sinan's most prominent students. The dome is 23.5 meters wide and 43 meters high. The shrine near the mosque houses the tombs of Ahmet I and his wife Kosem Sultan. On the east side of the mosque is the Arasta, a bazaar filled with souvenir shops. The Hunkar Mansion at the north side is today's Carpet and Kilim Museum.

Description:

The Kariye Museum (Church of the Holy Savior in Chora) has the most amazing Byzantine mosaics in Istanbul. Set aside a few hours to see them. The Kariye Museum served as a mosque for centuries after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best Ottoman Palace cuisine

Description:

Housed in a 19th-century Ottoman mansion (now converted into the Kariye Hotel), the Asithane Restaurant is big diversion from the mainstream Turkish and Ottoman Cuisine Restaurants in Istanbul -a.k.a kebab houses or doner / tacos buffets as the stereotypical Turkish food. Asitane Restaurant is a highly recommended restaurant to get a feel of the real historical taste of the Turkish culture. The menu changes seasonally - although some typical dishes don't, such as almond soup, stuffed calamari, seasonal salad with beetroot and hibiscus, hassa böreği (aged skin bag cheese from goat's milk, yogurt, green olives, walnuts and tarragon wrapped inside wafer), muntancana (stewed lamb served with pearl onion) and mahmudiyye (chicken flavored with honey served with almond, apricot, cinnamon, dried grape and flavored rice). Asitane Restaurant has a gorgeous summer terrace and an aromatic rose garden overlooking the Chora Church (Kariye Church). Enjoy your şerbet and / or wine, whilst sampling the small dishes (hot and cold appetizers). Go for sharing everything - as there is so much that is so good. The staff is overly well-behaved, kind and they speak very good English. Share your appetite with them and they will arrange your meals' size such that you will get to taste everything you want. 

Our Local Expert Says:

One could spend a day here, and only see a quarter of what it has to offer. From leather goods to books, and clothes to dishware, the covered bazaar doesn't disappoint. Be sure to try the restaurant up top - this writer hears good things!

Description:

The Kapalıçarsı is Turkey's largest covered market, housing approximately 4000 shops of luxurious Turkish carpets, delicate pottery, shiny brass-ware, handmade nargiles, precious stones, leather goods, lamps and a lot more than one could count or remember. A place as big as this has multiple entrances, though most people enter through the Nuruosmaniye Gate. As is "custom," never settle on the price a dealer quotes. He expects you to haggle with him and you should. Do it amiably and be reasonable (don't ask for more than 50% off), and you're sure to walk away with the article of your choice at a price you can live with. All payments are in cash, and those that take credit cards accept only the major ones. The bazaar also houses restaurants, which are frequented by tourists and locals alike.

Description:

Mimar Sinan is a name synonymous with Turkish architecture, and some would argue he reached his peak upon completion of the Süleymaniye Mosque, considered by many to be the most beautiful mosque in Istanbul. It's also one of the most structurally sound, not having incurred any recognizable damage from earthquakes in 450 years of sitting proudly in the heart of seismically-prone Istanbul. The mosque's most unique characteristics are its bright red and white striped archways, which, rather than lending a candy-cane feel to the place, actually add an aire of elegance to the mosque's interior with their subtlety and symmetry.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best variety of spices

Description:

The Spice Market is one of the oldest covered markets / bazaars of Istanbul. It is an exotic food market selling all sorts of food items from exotic spices, nuts and dried fruits to cheese varieties, Iranian caviar, fruits and vegetables. There are also "well-being" shops and herbalists, which sell body moisturizers, natural anti-cellulite treatment lotions, ant-egg creams for unwanted body hair, scrubbing pads out of fiber for natural peeling and a variety of herbal teas for any other functional or biological problems. Out of the covered market, there is also an animal market, where cutest puppies and new born rabbits mingle together with fish and birds. These markets also sell pet-care items and pet-toys. Spice Market is the second largest covered market after the Grand Bazaar, yet it usually takes shorter to go through its "L" shaped inner structure. Spare nevertheless half a day to sample a variety of food items and shop for souvenirs. Lunch is recommended at Pandeli Restaurant, which is located on the second floor of the market.

Description:

Pandeli is one of those neighborhood traditions that lives on more for its location and longevity than for anything particularly outstanding about the food. Pandeli was opened in 1901 by a Greek of Turkish descent and has become a local institution ever since its arrival on the upper level of the Egyptian Spice Bazaar. It's a popular place among businessmen on expense accounts as well as for bazaar shoppers looking for a place to eat. If you nab a table in the main room facing the ancient blue Iznik tiles and windows overlooking the bazaar, you can watch the human traffic come and go.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the most famous avenues of Istanbul and one of the most lively

Description:

This 2-mile pedestrian boulevard is a must-stroll for any visitor to Istanbul. Formerly known as the Grande Rue de Péra, the street's name was changed to İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) after Turkish independence was declared in 1923. The grand boulevard's turn-of-the-century European-style façades are well cared for, and the shops and restaurants that line the promenade are not extremely touristy or expensive. If you start at Taksim Square, İstiklal Caddesi will lead you all the way to the neighborhood home to the famous Galata Tower. Before you reach Galata, you'll pass through Karaköy, where you can see (and ride, for all of two stops) the world's second-oldest subway, the Tünel. One of İstiklal's side streets is the old Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage). Along another offshoot you'll find a slew of independent shops selling handcrafted musical instruments. İstiklal Caddesi is also your point of entry to the famous Balık Pazarı (Fish Market). Obviously, the huge boulevard is full of history and mystery, so leave no cobblestone unturned!

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the landmarks of Turkey, Galata Tower is a must see on your trip. Historically important, and affording views of the whole of Istanbul, this is a site not to be missed. A decent restaurant at the top has nice, but overpriced meals.

Description:

The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower, a cone-capped cylinder that soars high into the sky, dominating the skyline and offering a panoramic view of the Old city of Istanbul. It is thus worth climbing to the top for the view from this 14th century Genoese fortification. Beneath the tower is also a cozy, friendly neighborhood of artisans, artisan restaurants, designer boutiques, galleries and architects' offices. Take your camera and start strolling through the streets. Drop by at Lastik Pabuc Sneaker Store and have a look at unique sneakers; stop for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate at Cherrybeans Coffee Store -chocolates are their own production. The second hand store Second Chance sell unique vintage items, owned by model Ahu Yagtu. Lunch recommended at Kivahan Restaurant -no fix menu, everything is daily prepared.

Description:

Galata Mevlevihanesi is a whirling dervish hall in the Tünel Music Quarter at the end of Gallip Dede street. A whirling dervish is the fervent dancing and whirling to traditional Islamic chants and is a worship service unlike any other. The Galata Mevlevihanesi is used by several dervish groups. The octagonal hall is the best place to witness the sema, but tickets cannot be bought on the spot. To avoid disappointment make sure you get your bookings done in advance, or if not in town, get someone from your hotel to get them for you. The performances happen every Sunday and some Saturdays.

Description:

The Anglican church which was used by Sri Lankan Anglikan community, is located on Serdarı Ekrem Street, extending to the Galip Dede Street in Beyoglu, Istanbul. Lord Stratford Canning laid the foundation in 1856. It was built in memory of English soldiers who attended to Crimean war on the site of the Greek cemetery. Christmas celebrations are a rare kind attended by a cheerful priest and a choir.

Description:

The Saint Antoine Church is located on Istiklal Street in Beyoglu, Istanbul. The construction began on August 23rd, 1906 and it was completed and opened to service in 1912. Its architect is Giulio Mongeri, who was born in Istanbul. The church which was governed by Italian priests is the greatest Catholic Church in Istanbul with the biggest number of congregation. It was openned to service on February 15th, 1912.

Description:

The best seats are around the brass and copper Ocak, an open glowing coal grill where chunks of tender marinated lamb are grilled on skewers. Served on huge metal skewers, the idea is to wrap the thin freshly baked Lavash bread around the meat with your fingers, grip firmly and withdraw the skewer, leaving you with the Türkish equivalent of a lamb sandwich. There's not a lot of elbow room as all three floors are crammed full most nights. The atmosphere here gets pretty boisterous, and alcohol is served. It's also one of the best places in town to watch a frantic live football match on satellite TV.

Description:

This gallery is famously known in Istanbul for representing the major contributors to the world of art. Apel is the home of several aesthetic spaces, and features various Turkish and Ottoman exhibitions spread over five floors. Come to admire marvelous sculptures by sculptors, such as Yücel Kale and Azade Köker. Like many other galleries and museums in Istanbul Galeri Apel is also featuring special shows like the 'Neighbours'. With the various different exhibits that keep changing, this gallery is a Turkish art connoisseur's delight.

Description:

While the caterpillar on a cocoon would be the idea of many a drawings, art is also extended to the cotton in the cocoon. Prominent amongst featured works at Galerist are those of multiple 'British Designer of the Year' award winner, Cypriot Hüseyin Çağlayan (MBE). That doesn't mean the canvas is completely shunned as the Dutch artist Haluk Akakce's works also make their presence felt. Leading the Turkish charge of artists is Leyla Gadiz. If you share the non-enthusiast perception of all art being another brick in the wall, the art here is sure to make you think again.

Description:

Initiated in September 2001, this center is located in one of the liveliest areas of the city. It facilitates meetings for artists, curators and critics, acting as a stable platform. There are research and lecturing facilities available here and it is also home to an extensive artist archive. The Platform Garanti Contemporary Art Centre encourages art on both a local and international level - it even offers a Residency Program, which is open to international artists, critics and curators. Visitors can enjoy various group and solo exhibitions as well as lectures, workshops and video and film events. So if you are a budding artist, a critic in search of the next big thing or just an interested visitor, head here for a complete arty experience.

Description:

The Galatasary Hamam was built in 1715 as a public bath, yet it was actually exclusively for men. In 1965 the hamam underwent renovation and a new separate quarter for women was added to the establishment. During the renovation process, much has been kept intact and the main structure has not been altered radically, but architectural details were added. Galatasaray Hamam diverges from the mainstream public baths due to some of these architectural details and its more elitist atmosphere. One major feature here are the marble slabs where bathers can be massaged in semi-privacy rather than on the heated central navel stone. As such, the admission price tends to soar higher above regular bath prices as well. In Euros: 26 for a bath, 35 with a kese (scrubbing the body), 38 with foam massage, 44 for both kese and massage, and 57 for the 'Pasha' treatment – oil massage. Beverages are free and further tips to the keseci (massager) will guarantee further services and better treatment. Visitors to Galatasaray Hamam often complain that they are being ripped off inside by the increasing number of services and additional fees asked for each. But, if you discuss your options and prices before going on, you would now what to expect and not be disillusioned. After all think of hamam as an old-day spa, it was and is not for free.

Our Local Expert Says:

The views here are just as good as the food! A pricey restaurant to be sure, 360 Istanbul offers superb dining with great wait staff, and a view that is paralleled by few. A romantic way to spend the evening.

Description:

As the name implies, this restaurant offers a stunning 360 degree view of the city. Although quiet at lunch, it transforms into a sophisticated and trendy nightspot. The fare is more or less international, with a range of exotic dishes. Try dishes like Prawns in a Jar with Lemon Grass, or the Bollywood Chicken. Stick to Turkish cuisine or go in for some sushi, but definitely order something from the imported wine list. The DJ and the live music keep you on your feet—the atmosphere gets more vibrant as the night progresses.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best French Bistro in the city

Description:

Located right on the corner of the Asmalı Mescit Street -referred to simply as "Asmalı" by the local folk- as you enter it from the side where the Marmara Pera Hotel is, you recognize La Brise from its red tilts. Tiny, yet cozy, lined with white table tops, frequented by typical Istanbulelites, La Brise is indeed a little germ on the Asmalı. Run by the the Hunal family (who also run the bar & bistro North Shields branch), everything on the menu is a must-try. A French Bistro, decorated very much like one, serves delicate samples of French cuisine including the French Onion Soup for starters, maybe accompanied by Pate de foie de poulet (chicken pate) or Huitres -les 6- (the shelled fish) and followed by Chateaubriand (for share). A concise wine list is available and do consult the chef or the sommelier for suggestions on delicate Turkish wines -there is in fact some niche Turkish wine available here. A meal is unfinished without the enchanting Napoleon -mille feuille.

Description:

Situated in the heart of Taksim, this center houses the Presidential symphony orchestra, the opera, ballet, and other cultural and artistic events. However, it has been closed down for some time and has thus attracted a lot of protest from the elite population. It is bound to reopen in May 2010.

Description:

The entertainment includes mostly local trios and quartets, but the occasional international artist stops by, especially around jazz festival time. Kerem Görsev is one of Turkey's best-known jazz musicians and has been known to jam with the band. It's his bar, after all. It's worth arriving early to dine, and the North American cuisine isn't half bad. Students enjoy a 50% discount on weeknights, and Wednesday is 'Ladies' Night' with no cover charge for the fairer sex. Cocktails are named after the world's great jazz masters. No one pays cover on M, as there is no live music. Live jazz starts at 11p almost every night.

Description:

Gedikpasa was built in 1457 by one of the viziers of Mehmet the Conqueror. This makes it one of Istanbul's oldest hamams. It's not quite in the same league architecturally as the sleek marble palaces, such as Çemberlitas Hamam or Cagaloglu Hamam, but it has undergone very few renovations. Most of the original design remains untouched, which the connoisseur will find a big plus. The hamam is split into separate men's and women's sections, which are both a little rundown but very clean. The reasonable prices encourage the local clientele to attend regularly. If there are no customers, the women's section may close earlier than the time specified. Admission costs $6 and $12 with massage.

Description:

This is the most famous of Istanbul's many hamams. It has remained more or less unchanged since it was built on the orders of Sultan Mahmut I in the mid-18th century. It's a favorite for the makers of TV ads, who consider it an essential element when selling their soapy wares! Celebrity bathers are rumored to have included the likes of Franz Liszt, Florence Nightingale and Tony Curtis. These days, locals make up the majority of its patrons. After a good steaming and massage, there's a pleasant bar-café where you can sip a bracing glass of tea.

Our Local Expert Says:

Indeed one of the best art museums in the city - with great views and a smart café to boast!

Description:

Making its debut in 2004, Istanbul Modern is Turkey's first museum dedicated to displaying contemporary art. Located on the Sea of Marmara, the museum is a 86,000 square foot renovated government warehouse that houses abstract paintings, portraits, sculptures and photographs from local artists and public and private collections. Istanbul Modern fuses Turkish and Western aesthetic influences to create a connection between Turkish and European institutions of art. Although the Turkish government has offered some assistance, the museum is privately funded by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts and the Eczacibasi family, who also provides the permanent collection. Attracting 5,000 visitors daily, one of the most popular exhibits at the museum is the "Stairway to Hell" by Monica Bonvicini in 2003, a sculpture featuring chains and bullet-shattered glass. Other exhibits feature work by Fahrelnissa Zeid and Seker Ahmet Pasa. Istanbul Modern will also offer art history programs for children and adults. Admission is free on Thursdays from 10a-2p, and discounts are offered for students and groups.

Our Local Expert Says:

An interesting fact is that it has the world's largest chandelier - the size of a small car in fact!

Description:

Imagine a home with 285 rooms, 6 baths (hamam), 68 toilets and a ceiling made of 14 tonnes of gold! The Dolmabahçe Palace built on a reclaimed land is one such marvelous structure, built by the Ottoman Sultan, Abdulmecid between 1853-1922. A guided tour to this splendid palace will be an experience, checking out the modern approach to architecture with an essentially French influence. The rich tastes and splendor of the era is evident in every corner and artifact in the decor. You just can't miss the Bohemian crystal chandelier, the Crystal Staircase or the original bearskin rugs.

Our Local Expert Says:

Really one of the more underated things to see. Indeed a must for history buffs!

Description:

The museum consists of three parts: Archaeological Museum (the main building), Museum of the Ancient Orient and Museum of Islamic Art (Tiled Kiosk). There are more than twenty galleries filled with artifacts gathered from all over Turkey and the near east that reminisces 5,000 years of history with exhibits from Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire and the many civilizations of Anatolia and ancient Egypt. The main building houses the finds of nineteenth-century painter and archaeologist Osman Hamdi Bey, who is also the founder of the museum back in 1891. Other high points include in particular the famous Alexander the Great's tomb, the inscription of Hezikiah's tunnel in Jerusalem and the Kadesh Treaty. The Museum of the Ancient Orient contains artifacts from Egypt and Mesopotamia, including a magnificent frieze of a bull from the Ishtar gate in Babylon.

Description:

With a trendy and sought after locale, Feriye Lokantasi has a few things to brag about; delicious traditional cuisine, historic setting in Ortakoy, and a beautiful view of the Bosporus Bridge. This gourmet restaurant is a great place for a romantic night out on the town as you overlook the breathtaking views of gorgeous Istanbul. Don't forget to dress up!

Description:

"Ask" means love in Turkish, so the Assk Kahve is the "Love Cafe" in translation. It has a very simple menu with various sandwiches, toasts and paninis, salads and pasta. Yet, its unique location on the sea makes Assk Kahve one of the places to be in the summer. As such, it tends to get quite crowded with both young adolescents and adults. It is highly recommended that you find yourself a seat on the deck, but for that you will need to arrive a bit earlier than 11:00 AM. Breakfast is very enjoyable and you are supposed to order everything to the middle. Do order the "giant pogaca" (pastry / croissant) and honey & cream. At other times, enjoy their home-made lemonade and the "tongue of love" sandwich.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the best for a "typical" breakfast

Description:

One of the best places to enjoy Turkish style breakfast with olives, cucumber, tomato, the Turkish tortilla, bagels, various different egg assortments and the handmade pastry. It is open air and tends to get very crowded on weekends. Still the wait is worth it and it is not as long as it may look.

Description:

This little cafe in Bebek offers astonishing view of the Bosphorus from the roof top it is located on. Its menu ranges from many healthy picks (salads, toasts, soups) to delicious and seductive home-made pastries (chocolate cakes and brownies) and delicious big burgers. It is a nice place for lunch, one of the perfect places for breakfast, even nicer for a cosy get-together and a bottle of wine on a cool Istanbul evening.

Description:

"Ask" means love in Turkish, so the Assk Kahve is the "Love Cafe" in translation. It has a very simple menu with various sandwiches, toasts and paninis, salads and pasta. Yet, its unique location on the sea makes Assk Kahve one of the places to be in the summer. As such, it tends to get quite crowded with both young adolescents and adults. It is highly recommended that you find yourself a seat on the deck, but for that you will need to arrive a bit earlier than 11:00 AM. Breakfast is very enjoyable and you are supposed to order everything to the middle. Do order the "giant pogaca" (pastry / croissant) and honey & cream. At other times, enjoy their home-made lemonade and the "tongue of love" sandwich.

Description:

One of the most enjoyable ways to travel in Istanbul! Traditional ferry boats travel convenient routes up, down, and across the Bosphorous, connecting Karakoy, Eminonu, and Besiktas on the European shore with Uskudar, Haydarpasa, and Kadikoy on the Asian side. A lovely parade of great, ancient mansions which line up both sides of the coast, a romantic escapade under crimson moonlight, no better way to seize the sea-water-canal of this city which divides it apart.

Description:

Across from Dolmabahce Palace, Beylerbeyi, the summer home of the Sultans, is lavishly decorated, with a marble fountain and large bathing pool in the main salon surrounded by dozens of impossibly perfect blue and white striped 30-foot-tall marble columns. Quite a summer home! Also intriguing is the upstairs study with astoundingly intricate wooden inlays, as well as the bamboo copse in the gardens, and the fabulous view. Some rooms are more modern than expected, but are an indication of just how recently the Ottoman Empire ended.

Description:

When in Istanbul, head to Hunkar for some of the best traditional Turkish food. Located in the upscale shopping district of Nisantasi, this establishment is pretty much high-end, in keeping with its surroundings. The trendy decor and mouth watering cuisine make it worth a visit. Try the Crunchy Lamb (on a bed of mashed eggplant) or the specialty, Hünkar Beğendi. Make sure you sample their palatable homemade jams and desserts too.

Description:

This is the best place in town to get a glimpse of the future of Istanbul dining. It's sleek, sophisticated and well aware that it's too sexy for its dreary surroundings. The interior design makes unusually innovative use of the rather limited space, spread out over three floors with loads of unique original touches. Have a drink at the Manhattan-style bar before you settle into Charles Eames chairs below turn-of-the-century ceilings for lunch or dinner - the menu is international fusion.

Description:

Claiming to be the oldest restaurant in Istanbul, its bright walls give the three rooms a contemporary atmosphere. By far the most pleasant room is the one at the back; you'll find pink tones, a skylight and a glittering old world chandelier. The English menu lists a vast selection of Turkish and Ottoman delights. It's an excellent place for lunch. A colorful display of preserved pickles and fruits brightens up the entrance. Try the Kunefe for dessert; it's to die for.

Description:

The Kiz Kulesi Restaurant is located in the Maidens Tower, a small tower on a tiny islet near the Asian shore of the Bosphorus Strait. It was built by a Byzantine emperor in the 12th century who confined his daughter on the islet after learning from a prophecy that his beloved child would die of snakebite. Despite this, she was eventually bitten by a snake that had been smuggled inside a basket of grapes from the mainland. In ancient times, it was used as a toll booth, a bastion, a customs control point and a lighthouse. However the tower has been restored and is now an international restaurant. Access is by boat.

Our Local Expert Says:

Original food and quality people

Description:

Small casual cocktail bar in an upscale contemporary Turkish restaurant. Cezayir is located on the corner of the Fransız Sokağı -the so-called French Street. The three floored restaurant/bar features high quality finger food, main courses (including everything from very good risotto to roasted duck wrapped in a milfoille) and original cocktails. The garden of Cezayir is open starting from April onwards and throughout the summer. The highly active management and team put all their energy into making Cezayir a unique, high-class, yet not snob bar&restaurant. As such it is a homely, neighborhood bar, where most of the frequenters know each other pretty well. Tourists also arrive here upon chance and leave bewildered. Every Wednesdays, there is a live group of musicians making jazz. A nice oppourtunity to get out there and mingle with the local crowd.

Description:

Ageing rockers Bulutsuzluk Özlemi have made this their home base so if they're on the bill, go have a look. Otherwise, you can expect lots of posturing as Aerosmith wannabes take to the stage and play semi-audible covers. Live music starts after 11p in a basic no-frills, bare-brick bar-room with a raised stage at the far end. The high cover charge keeps much of the riff-raff out. There's lots of elbow jostling around the bar at weekends when the place fills to capacity with rock-loving twenty-somethings.

Description:

This two-level nightclub, formerly known as NuPera, now also called Nu Club, happens to be the Nu Terrace in summers. It is located within the NuPera complex in the Beyoglu neighborhood, enclosing three restaurants inside during the winter and the regular Nu Restaurant on the terrace in the summer. In terms of its clientele, there are no vast seasonal differences in winter and summer. On the other hand, the concept of the place tends to change a bit. During winters, the three rooms, in which the three restaurants are, rock to different types of music, making an enchanting club environment that allows you to bar-hop without putting on your jacket at all. The restaurants inside are Moreish, Nu Restaurant and Lilbitz, offering a range of fusion, world and tapas food. During the summer, the inner places close down and only the terrace area is open for both dinner and entertainment. The place does tend to be crowded, making getting in a tough work at times; but this does not deter the regulars, who jostle for elbow-space on the dance floor. An eclectic range of music is played by the DJs here, and that includes hip hop, house and pop. The clientele is elitist and the dress code is strictly smart and chic.