Music Lover's Guide to Istanbul

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Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts (IKSV) was founded in 1973 by seventeen businessmen and art enthusiasts who gathered under the leadership of Dr. Nejat F. Eczacıbaşı -a leading business man in Turkey, also the founder of Eczacıbaşı Group companies. The Foundation's initial aim was to present the finest examples of art from around the world, while at the same time promoting the national, cultural and artistic assets of Turkey. The Foundation is now behind many successful art events and festivals including the International Istanbul Music Festival, Filmekimi (movie festival), International Istanbul Jazz Festival in Turkey and events such as Turkey Now, Şimdi Stuttgart and Bozar Turkey Festival around the world. International Istanbul Music Festival is one of the most prestigious events on Istanbul's cultural calendar. The Festival hosts around 30 concerts featuring world-renowned classical performers who travel from all over the globe. Some of the events include performances of several international philharmonic orchestras, chamber music held in some of Istanbul's historical vaults and palaces, recitals by up and coming performers and dance and ballet performances by well-known international dance companies. In 2009, the International Istanbul Music Festival was organized during the month of June, and that was followed by Istanbul Jazz Festival in July. So, check out your and that of IKSV's calendars before you travel if you do not want to miss nights of quality music.

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Q: What's the only event that occurs five times a day all over Istanbul, provides a moment of tranquility, and is free and open to the public? A: The Muslim call to prayer, or ezan, as it's called in Turkish. At dawn, dusk, and three other times during the day, you'll hear the muezzins (often over a loudspeaker) longingly encourage the faithful to begin their prayers. One of the best times and places to listen to the ezan is at dawn on the Asian side of town, when there is almost no traffic or other noise, and where there is a greater concentration of mosques. The muezzins will be slightly off in the exact timing, so you'll sometimes hear a chorus of the chanting in different tones with different emphases for four or five minutes!

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Since there was a need for modern, dynamic, comfortable stage where modern dance groups can constantly perform, to encourage trust and professionalism at the union of performance arts theater design, administration and planning, to allow professional artists to arrange workshops, for international companied to take Turkey into consideration for their residencies and programs in dance, theater and music, to create a space for discussion of intellectual matters such as modern art movements, a team not only from Istanbul but from all around the world worked night and day for fifteen months to found garajistanbul.

Our Local Expert Says:

Lively, historic galleria

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Çiçek Pasajı which literally means "Flower Passage" was originally named Cité de Péra. It is a covered alley, a historic and famous passage, that was built in 1876. The site where the passage stands today was originally the Naum Theater -which was often frequented by the Sultan and is known world-wide for hosting Giuseppe Verdi's Il Trovatore before Paris. The Naum Theater was completely destroyed in the great fire of Beyoglu in 1870. Çiçek Pasajı is a real diversion from the old Theater and also from the already charming main drag Istiklal Caddesi -along which it is located. The passage is filled with lively restaurants, pubs, wine bars, taverns (meyhanes) and music. It is almost like the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan - an L-shaped, cobblestone-laden path, picturesque and enchanting atmosphere with rows of taverns and restaurants. Çiçek Pasajı is also a great spot for a solid Turkish meal (with a menu in your language) or a stiff drink -raki being the most appropriate one. At night, the passage is lit up literally and metaphorically, with colorful lights and live musicians at your table side. Despite its location and history, the Çiçek Pasajı is not overwhelmingly touristy, and it's a great place to stop in for a refresher on your journey down İstiklal, or to have a nightcap after a long day of sightseeing. You will notice the local folk eating and dancing with the musicians until late in the night; you may as well join in with them.

Our Local Expert Says:

Best lifestyle, concept place / mall

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Kanyon gets its name from Canyon (a.k.a Grand Canyon) due to its architectural resemblance to a steep-sided gorge. It was the first open-air social structure/mall in Istanbul and had encountered a lot of criticism during its opening. Now, it has become one of the most frequented establishments during lunch hours, after work and on Sundays for the cinema. Kanyon has a mall area, an elegant food court area, a fitness center, a residential section and an office building. The fitness center, Mars Athletic Club, is a trendy, upscale place catering mostly to those working in and around Kanyon. The Cinema, also owned by the Mars Group, has indeed one of the best cinema saloons in the city; and the food court, which does not have the regular mall court structure, allows for people watching and socializing. Inside the food court are separate restaurants lined side by side. These restaurants are all well-known, mostly up-scale or above average places, including Konyalı, Kitchnette, Gina, Midpoint, Mezzaluna Express and House Cafe. On the bottom floor (floor B2) is an open area that is used for all sorts of purposes: Sunday Jazz Sessions, ice-skating, activities for children and workshops etc. Now is open also the clubber's most frequented club on the roof of Kanyon: Wanna. Don't be surprised if you see heeled ladies walking off the mall late midnight :)

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Founded by Sakip Sabanci and managed by the Sakip Sabanci University , this private museum houses an extensive collection of Ottoman paintings, important documents and calligraphic works. It hosts various lectures, workshops and exhibitions from time to time and gained immense popularity with its display of Auguste Rodin and Pablo Picasso's works. The Villa, which is now the museum, was built in 1927 by an Italian architect Edouard De Nari by the commission of Prince Mehmed Ali Hasan of the Hidiv Family. The industrialist Haci Omer Sabanci bought the villa from the Hidiv Family in 1950; and from that time onwards the villa came to be known as the "Atli Kosk" (the Horse Mansion). The name was given as a result of two horse statues installed in its garden -one of which is from the cast of four horses removed from Sultanahmet during the Forth Crusade in 1204. Sakip Sabanci moved into the villa in 1966, following the demise of Haci Omer Sabanci. In 1998, the villa was given over to the Sabanci University together with Sakip Sabanci's private collection and furnishings, to be transformed into a museum. The in-house restaurant , Müzedechanga , is popular for dishing out mouthwatering international delicacies. Open on all days except Mondays.

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Galata Mevlevihanesi is a whirling dervish hall in the Tünel Music Quarter at the end of Gallip Dede street. A whirling dervish is the fervent dancing and whirling to traditional Islamic chants and is a worship service unlike any other. The Galata Mevlevihanesi is used by several dervish groups. The octagonal hall is the best place to witness the sema, but tickets cannot be bought on the spot. To avoid disappointment make sure you get your bookings done in advance, or if not in town, get someone from your hotel to get them for you. The performances happen every Sunday and some Saturdays.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the landmarks of Turkey, Galata Tower is a must see on your trip. Historically important, and affording views of the whole of Istanbul, this is a site not to be missed. A decent restaurant at the top has nice, but overpriced meals.

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The Galata Tower is a medieval stone tower, a cone-capped cylinder that soars high into the sky, dominating the skyline and offering a panoramic view of the Old city of Istanbul. It is thus worth climbing to the top for the view from this 14th century Genoese fortification. Beneath the tower is also a cozy, friendly neighborhood of artisans, artisan restaurants, designer boutiques, galleries and architects' offices. Take your camera and start strolling through the streets. Drop by at Lastik Pabuc Sneaker Store and have a look at unique sneakers; stop for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate at Cherrybeans Coffee Store -chocolates are their own production. The second hand store Second Chance sell unique vintage items, owned by model Ahu Yagtu. Lunch recommended at Kivahan Restaurant -no fix menu, everything is daily prepared.

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From Tünel at one end to the Galata Tower at the other, the entire street is full of music and musical instruments. Dozens of stores all stock guitars, pianos, traditional instruments like the Cümbüş and Oud, and Turkish cymbals. The street is full of dervishes on weekdays, and the biggest demonstrations of their whirling happen at the Galata Mevlevihanesi, located at the end of the road. This side street is a great place to immerse yourself in the musical culture of Istanbul.

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Congress Valley is a name denoted to a collection of congress centers, a theater, an open air concert area and the new built under ground congress building. It is an area of over 85000 metersq. enclosed by Lütfi Kırdar Congress & Exhibition Center and Rumeli Saloon, Hilton Convention Center and Gümüş Street, Harbiye Military Officers' Club and Military Museum, Cemil Topuzlu Açıkhava Theater and Taşkışla Street. Lütfi Kırdar Congress & Exhibition Center was the first congress center among others in this so-called Congress Valley that was renovated. This has been followed by the deconstruction of Muhsin Ertuğrul Theater -an achievement that generated a lot of bad reaction and criticism by the arts people and the folks. The new Congress Center, with 7 floors under the ground and 5 floors above, including a new theater stage was built in place here. The theater area in this new complex has been almost doubled with a marginal increase in the audience capacity.