Ajit Bhawan

Description:

• Built at the turn of the 20th century for Maharaj Ajit Singh (younger brother of the Maharaja Umaid Singh), this hotel incorporates crenelated castlelike walls and traditional Hindustani elements, resulting in a weird, rather kitschy mishmash with the atmosphere of a small resort. But it's a hugely popular place, and some prefer its more laid-back, down-home atmosphere to Umaid's plush palace. It's also significantly cheaper and has a wonderful outdoor pool and a good restaurant. The kitsch continues inside as you wander through what appears to be a faux Rajasthani "village," with stone cottages and low-slung mud walls leading off the central dining area and pool. Decor ranges from quite whimsical (which some may find amusing), to tremendously smart; the rooms are the work of Raghavendra Rathore, the owner's son and one of the country's top 15 designers. His smartest, most contemporary work is notable in the 12 new executive rooms, which are relatively luxurious, with wooden floors, unique, elegant furniture, and great bathrooms with tubs. That said, a few rooms have taken the kitsch theme a step too far (like no. 26, which has an indoor waterfall cascading over a rock, buck horns sprouting from its light fixtures, and a tiger skin behind the bed). Still, rooms are in mint condition, and a selection of gorgeous luxury tents features built-in bathrooms and wrought-iron furniture. If you can bag deluxe-room nos. 101 to 104 (also with wooden floors), each with a little balcony overlooking the pool (the best reason to book here), you'll have a better reason for smiling. Car enthusiasts may dig the fleet of 10 vintage cars on offer -- the oldest Buicks and Fords date back to 1928.

  Facilities: Restaurant; pool; health club; spa; travel desk; fleet of vintage cars for hire; airport transfers; business center; gift shop; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry; doctor-on-call; currency exchange; wireless Internet; horse, camel, and village safaris; evening folk dancing

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010