L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Description:

• Despite the four-star L.A. and N.Y. Times reviews for the main establishment reviewed above, trustworthy foodies tipped this place as actually superior. Then it won the James Beard Award for best new restaurant in 2007, which only adds to the debate. You won't go wrong either way. Certainly, it's relatively cheaper here, but the casual, almost entirely counter seating (it's like an extremely high-style diner) might dismay those looking for a different sort of atmospheric experience. But food is supposed to be fun, and interacting with the charming (and often handsome and French) staff on the other side only adds to the great good pleasure.

  Portions are small but exquisitely conceived and constructed. The tasting menu, which will likely change seasonally, is probably your best way to go, but consider coming just to treat yourself to a couple of dishes, such as the wee, perfect burgers topped with foie gras, or the Maine lobster with curry scent and fennel foam, a dish that sent us into a fit of uncontrollable giggles of delight. La Pied de Cochon is pâté made of pigs' feet, a robust and yet unctuous pork topped with shaved truffle and parmesan on toast. An amuse-bouche of foie gras parfait with port wine and parmesan foam comes layered in a teeny parfait glass with all three flavors clear and distinct and yet harmonizing into a powerful whole. The artistry only continues with dessert. A marvelous culinary experience.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010