Mesa Grill

Description:

• Food Network darling Bobby Flay has his fans and his detractors, and we aren't going to mediate that argument here, especially since the man isn't cooking in the kitchen any more often than most celebrity chefs in this town. More significantly, regardless of where you fall in the debate, this is a worthy restaurant, if, like so much in Vegas, a bit overpriced. Just about every well-spiced entree is over $30, and sometimes well over.

  Still, there is so much that is fun here; blue-corn pancakes with barbeque duck, even the chicken quesadilla (made in a special dedicated oven) comes with garlic crème fraîche. Presentation is over the top -- yes, yes, this is playful food, we get it, now stop it -- but those who are a bit on the wimpy side when it comes to spices will appreciate how each entree comes with its own cooling element (the aforementioned crème fraîche, for example). Desserts are equally frivolous, though not particularly theme-intensive (unless you consider an exceptional raspberry and white-chocolate cheesecake "Southwestern"). Those wishing to try it without breaking the bank should either come at lunch or consider splitting appetizers as a light meal.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010