Weekend in Las Vegas

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Tropical lagoons, sandy beaches and island landscaping await at this premier vacation spot. The standard guest rooms are tastefully decorated and spacious. You will enjoy a large bath with imported stone accents and a soaking tub. The 135,000 square-foot casino is lush with foliage and flowing water. Dining choices include the Border Grill, Rock Lobster, Aureole, Fleur de Lys and Trattoria del Lupo, a Wolfgang Puck experience. Rumjungle provides an exciting and unique night on the town. The Moorea Beach Club located in the premises is open only to guests and offers lots of amenities.

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For our money, here's the best Mexican food in town. This big, cheerful space (like a Romper Room for adults) houses a branch of the much-lauded L.A. restaurant, conceived and run by the Food Network's "Two Hot Tamales," Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. This is truly authentic Mexican home cooking -- the Tamales learned their craft from the real McCoy south of the border -- but with a nuevo twist. So don't expect precisely the same dishes you'd encounter in your favorite corner joint, but do expect fresh and fabulous food, sitting as brightly on the plates as the decor on the walls. Stay away from the occasionally bland fish and head right toward rich and cheesy dishes such as chiles rellenos (with perfect black beans) and chicken chilaquiles (a sister to the taco), or try new items such as mushroom empanadas. Don't miss the dense but fluffy Mexican chocolate-cream pie (with a meringue crust).

In Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S. tel. 702/632-7403. www.bordergrill.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch $15-$24, dinner $21-34. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 11:30am-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-10pm.

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The good news: more accessible than you might think, thanks to the air-conditioned people-mover from Excalibur and the monorail from Mandalay Bay. The bad news: Luxor has been systematically stripping away anything Egypt about the place. The result -- a casino that looks like all the other casinos in town. Bring back the talking camels and Tut! The casino did get a remodel that removed the space-wasting central area that used to contain the bathrooms, cashiers, and casino offices. This additional space gives the casino a much airier feel, which produces a low claustrophobia level -- in parts of the place, you can see all the way up the inside of the pyramid. There is also a casino lounge called Aurora that is very nice. The MGM MIRAGE Players Club offers rewards of cash, merchandise, meals, and special services to slot and table players. Sports action unfolds on 17 large-screen TVs and 128 personalized monitors in Luxor's race and sports book. We felt inclined to like this casino, thanks to a good run at blackjack, but we are most cranky about the de-Egypt-ification process.

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Surrounded by a rather Disney-esque one-third-scale replica of the streets of Paris, this 83,000-square-foot casino is a very pleasant place to gamble, in that Vegas-gimmick kind of way. It's one of those kitschy places that "real" gamblers are appalled by. To heck with them, we say. A tall ceiling gives the illusion that you are trying to bust the bank while strolling outside and results in an airy effect. The place doesn't feel all that large, thanks to its layout. It has more than 2,000 slot machines and more than 100 table games. A state-of-the-art race and sports book features live satellite feeds of sporting events from around the world. The Paris is part of the Total Rewards players' club.

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Whether this is worth the dough depends on how much you like views. An elevator operator (we refuse to call them guides) delivers a few facts about this Eiffel Tower (this is a half-size exact replica, down to the paint color of the original) during the minute or so ride to the uppermost platform, where you are welcome to stand around and look out for as long as you want, which probably isn't 2 hours, the length of the average movie, which costs about what this does. Nice view, though.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of Las Vegas' most well-known sights. Shows begin daily at 3 p.m.

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A visual water symphony choreographed to music provides an unforgettable welcome to the Bellagio Hotel Casino. The water jets span more than 1,000 feet and can shoot up to 240 feet in the air while seeming to dance to choreographed lights and romantic classical music. It is a spectacular sight and one worth taking the time to view while strolling along the boulevard. Be sure to bring a camera. There is no charge for admission.

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This fun place has won the Critic's Award for Best Place to Dance and Best New Hotel Restaurant given by the Las Vegas Review-Journal. The Mandalay Bay Resort houses a refreshing two-story jungle complete with waterfalls and the world's largest rum bar. The Lava Flow is a flaming volcano-bowl filled with dark rum, crushed pineapple, mango, brandy and orange juice. Try the Fire Pit, an eight-course meal including skewered kabobs of meat.

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In Short
Decked out in artifacts from Africa, India and the Far East, along with traditional American folk art, the club is draped in seductive jewel tones and unpredictable, mysterious touches. Guests who drop a few hundred for private wine and liquor bottle service are escorted to one of several secluded "prayer" rooms, filled with flickering candles on silver platters, dark-wood tables and velvet chairs. The open-air balcony's Strip view is nothing less than spectacular.

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The first thing you notice is the size of the place with more than 500 seats. However, the lines move quickly and the food is outstanding, making this well worth the visit. The buffet overlooks the outdoor lagoon, so instead of dining at a buffet in Vegas, you will feel like you are in Tahiti. The food is of impeccable quality, and varies from traditional American buffet choices to Asian specialties, vegetarian fare and exquisite desserts. It is located inside Mandalay Bay.

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This is America's tallest observation tower, rising 1,149 feet above the city streets. Located at the Stratosphere Hotel, it houses two hair-raising rides. The 'Let It Ride High Roller' is the world's highest coaster and is guaranteed to provide the ride of a lifetime. The 'Big Shot' shoots riders 160 feet into the air where they experience zero gravity then free fall to the platform, which is 800 feet above the street. Tower admission prices are subject to change.

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Auto racing is the fastest-growing spectator sport in America, so it's no surprise that these two attractions at the Sahara are a popular stop. The first is an 8-minute virtual-reality ride, Cyber Speedway, featuring a three-quarter-size replica of a NASCAR race car. Hop aboard for an animated, simulated ride -- either the Las Vegas Motor Speedway or a race around the streets of Las Vegas (start with the Strip, with all the hotels flashing by, and then through the Forum Shops -- whoops! There goes Versace! -- and so forth). Press the gas and you lean back and feel the rush of speed; hit a bump and you go flying. Should your car get in a crash, off you go to a pit stop. At the end, a computer-generated report tells you your average speed, how many laps you made, and how you did racing against the others next to you. It's a pretty remarkable experience.

Speed junkies and race-car buffs will be in heaven here, though those with tender stomachs should consider shopping at the well-stocked theme gift shop instead.

SPEED: The Ride is a roller coaster that blasts riders out through a hole in the wall by the NASCAR Cafe, then through a loop, under the sidewalk, through the hotel's marquee,...

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What was a nondescript, if large, mall has now been revamped with a yowsa exterior much more fitting Las Vegas. It's capped by a giant . . . well . . . they call it a cloud, but we call it "that weird thingy that looks like a spaceport for UFOs. What in the heck were they thinking?" Inside, it's still, more or less, a basic mall, including the city's first Nordstrom, a Bloomingdale's, Saks Fifth Avenue, a Neiman Marcus, and other high-end retailers. The mall hosts more than 250 shops, restaurants, and services. And the cloud/alien spaceport thingy has giant LED screens, music, and other distractions -- again, much more fitting for Vegas, where even the malls have to light up. Valet parking is available, and you can even arrange to have your car hand-washed while you shop. The Fashion Show is open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm and Sunday from 11am to 7pm.

Our Local Expert Says:

Fantastic.

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The New York-New York Las Vegas has wonderfully imitated the city of New York and its attractions. And the Manhattan Express Roller Coaster takes you for a joyride past the replicas of the Big Apple; Empire State Building, Chrysler Building to name a few. Speeding upto 67 miles per hour, the ride specialises in a 203-foot drop. The hotel also offers packages, which include, unlimited rides, souvenir T-shirts, food and drinks, and clown dolls. As for the experience - absolutely dizzying!

Our Local Expert Says:

Televisions everywhere---a great place to watch the game.

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This place is in every sports fan's fantasies, and it really exists. The two-level, 33,000-sq. ft. bar/restaurant has three areas: the Screening Room, the Sports Arena and the Studio Grill. The Screening Room allows viewers to sit back in leather recliners and watch sports surrounded by 14 big screened TVs. The Sports Arena is on the second level and is filled with activities including a football toss, a climbing wall, virtual reality boxing, a duckpin bowling alley, and, of course, video games. The Studio Grill offers food like chicken wings and cheese fries, but also has pastas, ribs, seafood, and steaks. Don't forget to grab a drink while you're at it; even if you want to go play some more games, just put your beer or martini in one of the drink holders built into them. Really!

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The ultimate burger experience, from the famous restaurateur Hubert Keller of Fleur de Lys, comes to Mandalay Place. Incorporating the finest varieties of beef, buffalo, turkey, vegetarian and vegan products, a range of gourmet toppings and delicious buns, Burger Bar has a little bit of everything for the creative eater. Complete the experience with a Sweet Burger dessert or a hand-crafted micro brew.

Our Local Expert Says:

Get your tickets arranged at least a month prior to your visit to ensure availability.

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Las Vegas is rapidly becoming an occupied colony of Cirque du Soleil. With blow-out productions like KA at MGM Grand, Zumanity at New York New York, and Mystere at Treasure Island, Las Vegas visitors can catch breathtaking Cirque action at points up and down the Strip. O at Bellagio is arguably the most elegant of the Cirque productions. Theatrics take place in an aquatic setting above, on, and below a serene pond custom designed to meet the unique demands of the artists. Audiences truly enjoy the direct interaction with the fun cast, in typical Cirque behavior, where the actors make everyone part of the show. Every seat in the 1800 seat O showroom is a good one. But if you sit too close to the stage you may need an umbrella! Synchronized swimmers, aerialists, divers and clowns keep this 100+ minute show very exhilarating. The expert divers are reminiscent of human fireworks, and there is one unbelievable scene where there is a “human” fire! The sights, sounds and smell of O make this a must-see attraction.Performances: W-Su 7:30p, 10:30p; M-Tu Dark Tickets: $99-$125-$150

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Mystère is a Cirque du Soleil production and was the first of the Cirque shows to come to Las Vegas. This is a fun, smooth-flowing performance filled with comedy and exceptional acrobatics with 72 artists from around the world. The pre-show antics are hilarious, and every seat of the 1,629 in the showroom is a good one, so be sure to get to your seat early! Besides the humor, clowns and athletes that fill the show, there are strange creatures and brilliant colors. A pounding drum opening scene sets the stage for a truly enjoyable evening. Performances also include a visually artistic Aerial Cube, the exceptional hand-to-hand act of the Alexis Brothers, and a high-flying group of amazing acrobats who perform an exciting Aerial High Bar act. For 90 minutes the Mystère Theatre is transformed into a dynamic kaleidoscope of creativity. Add to this the dancers, acrobats and musicians, and Mystère is a fun filled evening out for the whole family. Tickets: USD60-USD75-USD95

Our Local Expert Says:

Michelangelo’s ceiling in the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel is so faithfully reproduced on the ceiling at The Venetian that you’ll hear many “oohs and ahhs” from people who have seen the original!

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The Venetian Las Vegas, located at the site of the legendary Sands Hotel, is a world-class destination, the recipient of numerous awards and accolades. The Venetian resort features luxurious rooms, deluxe spa services, world-class dining and upscale shopping among the 80 stores in the Grand Canal Shops. Exhibits of fine art and architecture have made The Venetian a world famous example of contemporary Las Vegas architecture. The attention to detail is amazing. Look for the live doves that are released in St. Mark’s Square as the sun sets every hour and don’t forsake a gondola ride with your very own singing gondolier!

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From the colorful Mexican tiles to the bold chrome and Mexican music, this is a very authentic and trendy eatery. The tacos range from the traditional beef to the more exotic grilled mushroom tacos. Gorditas, Tostadas, Quesadillas, Platos and Tamales are all cooked to perfection, with a slightly southwestern flair. For dessert, try the Sweet Potato Flan or Margarita Mousse with tequila strawberries. Full bar service is available. Located inside the Grand Canal Shoppes at the Venetian Hotel.

Our Local Expert Says:

The definitive Pan-Asian Vegas dining experience

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Tao Las Vegas features cuisine from China, Japan, and Thailand. This entertainment complex houses a 400 seat restaurant, 3,000 square foot ultra lounge, a banquet facility, and a 10,000 square foot nightclub.

Our Local Expert Says:

A great place to eat before a concert at House of Blues.

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This restaurant at Mandalay Bay is the closest thing you can come to a blues revival without going to Louisiana. Live music has been presented by some of the all-time great rhythm and blues personalities, with Dan Aykroyd sometimes serving as opening act. Nightly entertainment usually starts around 7:30p. Everyone will love the fried catfish and succulent barbecued ribs. On Sunday, a brunch buffet is punctuated by some of the greatest gospel singers in the country.

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After braving the wave pool in the hot Las Vegas sun, take a trip to paradise at the spa. Over 3,000 square feet of exercise facility and private treatment rooms overlook the 11 acres of beach area at Mandalay Bay. Salt and herbal body wraps, aromatherapy, massage, facials, saunas, steam room and a personal trainer will make your visit here refreshing and trouble-free. Try a reflexology session and your tired feet will thank you.

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Located in the Four Seasons Hotel, this is a top-notch health spa with five-star service and facilities, as well as a five-star price tag. Full weight training and treatments are offered in six large rooms, or if a more intimate experience is your goal, reserve one of the two private spa rooms. These feature a whirlpool and any of the regular services are available for private enjoyment. Facials, salt rubs, wraps, mineral treatments, massages, aromatherapy, steam rooms and tanning are available. A visit is a vacation in itself.

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This branch of a New York City fave (it's pronounced are-ree-all) run by Charlie Palmer is noted for its glass wine tower. It's four stories of probably the finest wine collection in Vegas, made even more sensational thanks to catsuit-clad lovelies who are hoisted on wires to reach bottles requested from the uppermost heights. Amid this Vegas-show glitz is one of the better of the fine-dining experiences around. The menu is a three-course prix-fixe, though if you are winsome enough, they might send out luxurious extras such as pâté on brioche topped with shaved truffles or an espresso cup of cold yellow-pepper soup with crab. Otherwise, expect such marvels as a tender roasted lamb loin and braised shoulder, or a rack of venison accompanied by sweet-potato purée and chestnut crisp. Everything demonstrates the hand of a true chef in the kitchen, someone paying close attention to his work and to his customers. Service is solicitous; on a recent visit, with one diner not feeling up to an actual meal, the concerned server presented special clear consommé and mild sorbets. Desserts are playful, including a bittersweet chocolate soufflé with blood-orange sorbet and a Bartlett pear crisp with...