Off the Gringo Trail



Description:

Peru has a well established tourist trail which starts and ends in Lima and the capital city has a tourist trail of its own, with most visitors sticking to a small number of very popular spots. Yet for a city stretching over 2,600 square kilometers and home to 8 million people, it's a safe bet that there's plenty more to see and do here and this guide offers a few examples. The first trick is to keep clear ofMiraflores. Sure this busy shopping and commercial district feels familiar and safe, but for a taste of the real Lima, you'll need to venture further afield. The good news is that the city's 'combi' buses will get you almost anywhere, and for next to nothing. Why not grab the first passing bus and see where it takes you? Taxis are reasonably cheap and you can negotiate any fare with the driver before getting in. If you're not sure what a reasonable price might be, just ask in a hotel or bar - you'll find that people are happy to help. Some of the districts that have plenty to offer but that are less visited than the main touristhotspots are Chorillos, Surco, San Isidiro and areas of Central Lima. Barranco, popular for visitors can still offer the occasional unusual treat that you wouldn't expect to find, so explore the backstreets and see what you find. Neighbourhoods further afield than these districts don't see many tourists at all and may be considered unsafe for first time visitors. Keep your wits about you and don't walk the streets alone at night. By far the best way to uncover Lima's hidden side is to brush off those Spanish skills and get chatting with the locals. You'll find they're friendly and eager to offer advice on the hidden gems that Lima has to offer.

Author: Matthew Barker


Museo Rafael Larco Herrera

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Location:

Avenida Bolívar 1515
Lima 21 Pueblo Libre, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 461 1312 , 461 1835
fax: +51 1 461 5640


Museo Javier Prado

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Location:

Avenida Arenales 1256
LM 14 Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 471 0117
fax: +51 1 265 6819


Teatro Peruano-Japonés

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Location:

Avenida Gregorio Escobedo 803
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 261 3983
fax: 51 1 463 5767


Day 1 - Lima


Begin your tour of Lima's hidden side with a lazy morning in Barranco. Although this is a popular area for locals and visitors alike, it's maze-like streets and fantastic 19th/early 20th century Republican architecture will throw up countless secrets. Explore the artist workshops tucked away in the leafy back streets, take a stroll around the SanFranscisco church and stumble upon the neighborhood market where you can sit down with the locals and fill up on a cheap lunch. After lunch head to Pedrode Osma museum for a glimpse of Lima's alternative art scene where anything goes and the only limitation is your own imagination! Catch the afternoon sun on themalecon and follow it up through some beautiful residential neighborhoods to the edge of Miraflores where you will find Dove Vai, a delightful cafe where you can relax and get to know some of the regulars.


1

Barranco

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Location:

Barranco
Costa central de Lima
Lima, Peru


2

Pedro de Osma Museum

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Location:

Avenida Pedro de Osma 423
\ Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 467 0063 / +51 1 467 0141
fax: +51 1 467 0141


3

Dove Vai

Location:

Diagonal 228
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1241 8763


4

Second Home Peru

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Location:

366 Barranco
Barranco
Lima, PE

Contact:

tel: 51 1 477 5021
fax: +51 1 247 1042


Day 2 - Lima, Cercado


Head further afield on day 2 and grab a combi bus to China Town (buses heading north along Arequipa towards Central Lima). Peru has a large Chinese community, their most obvious legacy being the huge number of excellent Chinese restaurants (Chifas) dotted about the city. Many Chinese settled in this neighbourhood and this is where you'll find the most obvious cultural landmarks, including the impressive Chinese arch. Stop for lunch atWa Lok, one of the best Chifas in town before catching a bus up the enormous hill that dominates downtown Lima, Cerro San Cristobal. From this spot you'll get the best view of Lima and the surrounding areas. Be sure to go up and down by bus or taxi though, as the surrounding neighbourhoods are not safe for visitors. Once back at ground level you can stop for dinner in Central Lima, or else hop onto a bus back toBarranco and eat in one of the many neighbourhood restaurants.


1

China Town

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Location:

Calle Paruro
LM 01 Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 574 8000


2

Wa Lok

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Location:

Jirón Paruro 864
Barrio Chino
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 427 2656


3

Cerro San Cristóbal

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Location:

Near the Rimac River
Lima 1 Cercado, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 315 1300


Day 3 - Chorrillos, Lima


From the seafront at Barranco the huge stretch of city to your left is the historic suburb of Chorrillos. This is a huge district and despite having much to offer, does not receive as many visitors as its neighboring barrios further north. Most buses heading south read Chorriolls, hope on board and head into the district. You'll be able to spot the remaining original architecture that survived the conflict with Chile at the end of the 19th century as well as explore the shopping areas and the beaches which are very popular among the locals. Stop for lunch at Sonia, a real hidden gem that offers some of the best seafood in town. Catch the afternoon sun on the beach but be sure to wear plenty of sunscreen, even on an overcast day.


1

Chorrillos

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Location:

Costa de Lima
Lima 9 Chorrillos, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 444 3027


2

Sonia

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Location:

Jr. Agustín Lozano 173
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 467 3788


Day 4 - Lima, Pueblo Libre, Barranco


Round off your trip to Lima with a spot of culture and begin by hopping on a bus heading north up Arequipa to the flashy financial district of SanIsidiro . This district is well known for its parks and green areas and will offer some welcome respite from Lima's constant buzz and high pressure activity. From here, head east to theMuseo de la Nacion, which is Lima's preeminent exhibit of Peruvian life, including pre-Colombian civilizations. The museum, which is housed in an oppressive former military government building, also has a powerful photography exhibit documenting the suffering and hardships during the conflict with Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path terrorist group). Stop for lunch of mouthwatering ceviche in Bahia Azul before heading to the Museo Nacional de Antropología for a rich history of Inca and pre-Inca pottery and textile finds. On your way back south stop for dinner at Señorío de Sulco , where a well crafted menu recreates all of Peru's different ethnic legacies with typical dishes from the coast, sierra and jungle. Finish your trip in style with a drink in the typically localJuanitos followed by a night on the tiles at El Dragon, where Barranco's hip crowd gathers on a nightly basis.


1

San Isidro

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Location:

San Isidro
Costa central de Lima
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 432 3559


2

Museo de la Nación

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Location:

Av. Javier Prado Este 2465
San Borja
LM 41 Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 476 9875


3

Bahía Azul

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Location:

Calle Isaac Albéniz 245
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 475 1880


4

Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historia

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Location:

Plaza Bolívar s/n
Lima 21 Pueblo Libre, Peru

Contact:

tel: +51 1 463 5070
fax: +51 1 463 2009


5

Señorío de Sulco

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Location:

1470 Malecon Cisneros
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 441 0183
fax: 51 1 441 0389


6

Juanito's

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Location:

Grau 274
Lima 4 Barranco, Peru


7

Dragón (El)

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Location:

Nicolás de Piérola 168
(Precipice)
Lima, Peru

Contact:

tel: 51 1 477 5420


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