Off the Gringo Trail

Our Local Expert Says:

Great for night life

Description:

What was once the number one beach resort in Lima is now a bohemian barrio par excellence—preferred by artists, writers and lovers for its serenity and idyllic atmosphere. The area has flourished again, over the last 15 years and its parks and republican-style mansions have regained past splendour. Cross the Puente de los Suspiros to the scenic pier overlooking the Pacific ocean. Catch a musical or cultural performance in one of the barrio's plazas, stroll along the boulevard and stop in at one of the many bars, such as La Noche.

Description:

Nestled within a historic mansion, this museum has a lot to offer its visitors. Step into the Palacio de Osma and you will find art in all forms, be it linen cloth, wood or metal; glass and leather have not been left out either! And these centuries-old paintings hail from places as far as Italy, Bolivia, Quito, Mexico, and Germany. The gallery hosts temporary exhibitions also. Check the website for more details.

Description:

In a corner of the main park in Miraflores is a modest cafe where patrons spend most of the day sipping coffee, absorbed in a good book, or with friends in pleasant conversation. The café's rich ambiance is highlighted by its handcrafted metal chairs and tables, making for a truly eclectic design. Despite being extremely popular in the early evening, when the streets are their liveliest, the café serves a mean Breakfast. Among the variety of breakfast specialties include empanadas, a delicious, uniquely Peruvian dish of a fresh beef or chicken center wrapped in a freshly baked flour outer shell. As the day slowly evolves into the afternoon and early evening the dynamic of the café matures into a more active, robust environment. It is a unique pleasure to be able to casually observe the activity while slowly grazing across a cherimoya ice cream, soaking in the unique flavors of Peru. By early evening it is always a pleasure to finish off the day with a cup of coffee grown locally in the foothills of the Andes Mountains.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite B&B for weary travelers

Description:

This two-story hotel is two blocks from Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of the Sighs). Each of the five guestrooms has two balconies overlooking the ocean and offers complimentary high-speed Internet. A business center, art gallery, and complimentary Continental breakfasts each morning are among the amenities offered.

Our Local Expert Says:

Chinese restaurants are known as chifas

Description:

Lima boasts the largest Chinese community in South America and in part, they have settled in this traditional Lima suburb, where the main road is the Boulevard de la calle Capitol. It has a striking Chinese arch built in 1971 as a symbol of friendship between Peru and China. It was built out of stone and the bases are covered in marble. One of the main attractions, apart from the significant oriental influence in the architecture, are the Chinese restaurants. These almost always have red lights inside or wooden palace lanterns encrusted with glass, replicas of ones used by the old Chinese emperors. If you want to leave a permanent imprint in this boulevard, the Chinese sells paving stones. You can write whatever message you like, from your name to the date of birth of your first grandchild.

Our Local Expert Says:

Editors choice for Chinese restaurant (chifa)

Description:

One of the best and well-known Chifas (local slang for Chinese restaurants) is appropriately situated right in the heart of the Barrio Chino, in the centre of Lima. Hot or cold drinks accompany its colourful oriental dishes. The dining area is spacious and distinctly Chinese. Tourists frequently flock here for the combination Chinese-Peruvian cuisine, after trekking about the nearby historic centre of the city. A delicious Dim Sum and a traditional noodle and dumpling breakfast can be enjoyed when this Chifa opens in the early hours of the morning.

Our Local Expert Says:

Another Lima's underrated must-see

Description:

Located very close to Lima downtown, the Cerro San Cristobal (Saint Cristobal Hill) is a 400m high peak from which you can have a privileged, unique panoramic view of Lima: on a clear day, with a little luck, you may see the ships anchored at Callao Bay. Legends say that this hill was named got its name after an indigenous rebellion in 1536, after which a wooden cross was placed at the peak to protect the city. Nowadays there's a huge cross instead and a site museum that houses historic photos and documents of old Lima and related to the cross. But the best is the stunning panoramic view, specially in Summer or Spring. The best time is very early in the morning or late afternoon. You can take a bus at the Plaza the Armas (on weekends), which will take you to the top of the San Cristobal, stay there 20-30 minutes and then bring you back.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite B&B for weary travelers

Description:

This two-story hotel is two blocks from Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of the Sighs). Each of the five guestrooms has two balconies overlooking the ocean and offers complimentary high-speed Internet. A business center, art gallery, and complimentary Continental breakfasts each morning are among the amenities offered.

Our Local Expert Says:

A great choice if you're looking for some fresh seafood

Description:

Chorrillos is not exactly a popular place among first-time visitors, but visiting is a must: from its marina, located on the top of a cliff, you will have the best view of Lima, the Costa Verde beaches and the bay. During a clear day you may also get to see La Punta, located at the other extreme, in Callao port. Chorrillos nowadays attracts some two million beach lovers every summer: its main beaches are La Herradura, Agua Dulce and Playa Pescadores where you can buy very cheap really fresh fish, have lunch at any of its many rustic restaurants, or enjoy a boat ride. Another important spot is the astronomical observatory at the Morro Solar.

Our Local Expert Says:

Unforgettable experience.

Description:

Hidden in the very corner of Lima just a block from the malecon is this simple but very famous Chorrillos cevicheria. The place is famous throughout Lima for its ceviche and other seafood dishes. While in the 1970's it was just a market stand, the loyal following put the restaurant in it's own building. A range of Limeno's, seafood lovers, chefs, and international media have since descended upon Sonia for her Ceviche, tiraditos, and the Pescado a al Chorrilliana, which she invented and is now a widely accepted preparation across the country.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite B&B for weary travelers

Description:

This two-story hotel is two blocks from Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of the Sighs). Each of the five guestrooms has two balconies overlooking the ocean and offers complimentary high-speed Internet. A business center, art gallery, and complimentary Continental breakfasts each morning are among the amenities offered.

Description:

Since the start of the 20th century, San Isidro has been characterised by the sobriety of a wealthy suburb. It is the garden district of Lima, and it radiates with green areas. The 'El Olivar' area stands out, so called for the hundreds of olive trees which grow in its parks. Here you find the best restaurants, hotels, areas of entertainment and the most famous shows in the capital.In recent years, it has also become an important business centre which now houses banks, ministries and some government organisations. Visiting 'Huaca Huallamarca', an occasional venue for artistic shows, is a must.

Description:

This enormous state building exemplifies the architecture of the military government of the 70s. It was re-opened as a museum in 1990, and today has four floors of exhibitions. There are replicas of pre-colonial life, along with ceramics from various cultures and reproductions of the country's main archaeological sites. Throughout the museum, visitors can follow a series of educational illustrations, models and collections representing different aspects of the development of ancient Peru. In addition to the permanent exhibition, the galleries also house temporary exhibits. Parking is available. Admission required.

Description:

Carefully designed original seafood dishes are found here. A well-stocked bar offers delicious and exotic cocktails and drinks to accompany a meal. Some house specialities are the Enrollado Bahía Azul and Bahía Azul Ceviche. Other recommended items include the Chupe de Camarones (Shrimp Soup), Anticuchos de Cojinova (brochettes of a fish from these Pacific waters) and the Seco de Cabrito (kid goat stew with cilantro) and Arroz con Pato (duck with rice), prepared only on Saturdays. The restaurant also offers a buffet service for special occasions and business meetings.

Our Local Expert Says:

Great display of Inca and Pre-Inca pottery and textiles

Description:

This is the oldest and the most important museum run by the state, due to the huge number (more than 10,000) of artifacts it houses in its exhibition halls and repositories as well: pottery, textiles, metal and stone objects, among many other surprises from ancient Peru history, but also documents and photographs from colonial and republican times. This is a museum commited to researching, conservation and dissemination of Peruvian cultural heritage and knowledge. And this is the museum which displays the Peruvian history´s complete chronology in a clear, didactic way. It is located at a historic building too, since a Spanish Viceroy and two of the Peruvian Independence heros lived here. The museum includes a virtual exhibition room specially intended for children, and in 2010 opened a hall dedicated to the cultures of the Amazon regions. The museum offers guided tours in Spanish and English for S/. 15 (for groups of up to 15 people).

Description:

Near the cliffs you will find a good restaurant, Señorio de Sulco, it is a very well known restaurant in the city and it is in a calm neigborhood. You can try Papa a la Huancaina (you cannot mistake this flavor from the Mantaro Valley, delicious yellow potatoes and a sauce made of fresh cheese and chili) or Huayta Sulcana (a pre-hispanic dish recovered by the Señolío de Sulco, beef cooked in a mud pot with fine aromatic plants and served with sweet potatoes). Go with a friend anytime, you may not want to wait for long to come back, and if you want stay and try all this place has to offer. You do not have to go alone to eat well. - Jorge Arévalo

Our Local Expert Says:

Preferred by young, bohemian artists,

Description:

The long, narrow couple of rooms that is Juanito's looks not unlike any other bodega in Lima. It has a bar that extends the entire length of both rooms and a few tables that always seem to be filled. It's the décor, but the atmosphere here that draws a crowd. This dive bar known for the artsy/intellectual clientele that have been frequenting the place for decades. Tables of friends with a dozen bottles of beer are a common sight. It opened in the 1960's and has been popular ever since. Good country ham sandwiches are served out in napkins all night long.

Our Local Expert Says:

Popular night spot in Barranco for the younger set.

Description:

Young Bohemian-types flock to this watering hole for drinks and good music early on in the week, when other spots in the city are "dry." There is a cozy bar, intimate seating and a small dance floor to shake to the rhythms. The relaxed but lively atmosphere attracts a mixed crowd of locals and international travelers. Good musicians show up for frequent live performances, and recorded music varies from pop to electronic. Call ahead for performance schedule.

Our Local Expert Says:

A favorite B&B for weary travelers

Description:

This two-story hotel is two blocks from Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of the Sighs). Each of the five guestrooms has two balconies overlooking the ocean and offers complimentary high-speed Internet. A business center, art gallery, and complimentary Continental breakfasts each morning are among the amenities offered.

Description:

Founded in 1918 this arm of the Universidad Nacional de San Marcos exhibits the flora, fauna and minerals from different regions of Peru. Many of the specimens on display formerly belonged to the Italian collector Antonio Raimondi, who loved Peru and was a passionate researcher of the country's natural resources. The museum caters to student groups but is also open to the public.

Our Local Expert Says:

Biggest erotic Inca pottery display in the world

Description:

This museum houses impressive collections of ancient Peruvian pottery and metalurgy, including silver and gold objects; but probably its most famous collection is the "Sala Erótica" ("Erotic Hall") and its ancient pottery pieces depicting many sexual practices of Moche's civilization (however minors are not allowed here). The museum has also a nice cafeteria, "Cafe del Museo", a museum shop called "Galeria del Museo", a H. Stern jewellery shop (with pieces inspired in ancient Peruvian cultures) and a alpaca garments shop, "Alpaca 111". General Admission: S/. 30 (Students and under-15 years old, S/. 15). Open Hours: Mon-Sun, 9am-6pm (including holidays).

Our Local Expert Says:

The place where famous, local comedians perform.

Description:

This two-level theater has a 1,025-person seating capacity and has been open since the early/middle 1990s. It belongs to the Peruvian-Japanese Cultural Center and is hired out to production companies for them to present their performances. It offers various types of performances, ranging from ballet (the National Ballet is often invited) to Creole and international presentations. The entrance fee varies depending on the performance. Tickets are normally bought using the Teleticket system, which can be found in various shopping centers throughout the city.