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Fado and Football

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It's said there were three "f's" under the Salazar regime: Fatima, Futbol, and Fado. Football (soccer) will always move nations all over the world, and Fado will move you during your visit in Lisboa. Fado comes from the word "fatum" meaning destiny. The music emits feelings of sadness and longing. Listen to Fado and you will understand "saudade", a term which has no definition in English, but perhaps is closest to nostalgia.

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Author: Jennifer

Day 1 - Lisbon

Your introduction to Fado is the great Amalia Rodrigues. Visit the Casa-Museu Amalia Rodrigues, and you'll be able to recognize music floating out of several shops and photos hanging on walls all over town. This museum is near the Estrela neighborhood whose Basilica, gardens, and Palacio Palmela are pleasant stops. From the Basilica either walk or take the #28 trolley back into the Bairro Alto. Get off at the Chiado stop. Sit a spell in the Cafe A Brasileira for a coffee and pastry. Walk down and up the Rua Garrett to window shop. If you're looking to buy some Fado CD's, schedule a stop at Armazens do Chiado's book and music store, or see if the mobile stand selling music is out on Rua do Carmeo. In the evening explore the Fado venues in the Bairro Alto. Try Café Luso or Tasca do Chico, or follow your heart and "saudade". Whether you stay at the Pensao Geres or the Pensao Londres, you'll be close to A Ginjinha. Ginjinha liquor is fine at any time, and it's more than a drink, it's an experience.

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Pensao Londres

Location:

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Rua D. Pedro V, nº53
1250-092 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 21 346 2203, 346 5523

Pensao Geres

Location:

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Calçada do Garcia, No. 6
1º e 2º andar
1150-168 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 21 881 0497

Casa-Museu Amália Rodrigues

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Location:

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Rua de São Bento 193
1250-219 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 (0)21 397 1896

Basílica da Estrela

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Praca da Estrela
1200-667 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 (0)21 396 0915

Palácio Palmela

Location:

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Rua da Escola Politécnica, nº140
São Mamede
1294 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

351 21 392 1900

Armazéns do Chiado

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Location:

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2 Rua do Carmo
1200-094 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

351 21 321 0600

Café Luso

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Location:

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Travessa da Queimada, 10
1200-365 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

351 21 342 2281

Tasca do Chico (A)

Location:

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Rua Diário de Notícias, 39
1200-142 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 96 505 9670

A Ginjinha

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Location:

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Largo de S.Domingos, 8
1150 Lisbon, Portugal

Phone:

+351 21 8862449

Day 2 - Lisbon

Football is a serious matter. Once you've committed to a team, it's usually for life. There are two major stadiums in Lisbon: Estadio da Luz, SL Benfica's home, and Estádio José Alvalade XXI, Sporting Clube de Portugal's. Taking a spin around one of these stadiums is probably enough for one day. If you're not a dedicated fan yet, go to the Sporting Clube de Portugal's as it's somewhat closer to the Campo Grande where you'll enjoy the park and have lunch at Restaurante Quebra Bilhas, a 1800's Fado haunt. This will prepare you for more Fado in the Alfama neighborhood. Learn more about the roots of this music and culture at the Casa do Fado e da Guitarra Portuguesa. Spend your night in song in one of the many Fado restaurants in this neighborhood, like the Parreirinha de Alfama. And if there's time on the way back to your bed, knock back another Ginjinha.

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