Brown's Bar and Restaurant Covent Garden

Description:

• The decor of this popular restaurant is reminiscent of an Edwardian brasserie, with mirrors, dark-wood trim, and cream-colored walls. The staff is attentive, hysterically busy, and high spirited. The most amazing thing about the restaurant is its size. It's a cavernous labyrinth of tables complemented by a bar where (often single) patrons tend to be good-looking, happy-go-lucky, and usually up for a chat. Without ever rising to greatness, mains are well prepared and rather tasty, especially the chargrilled chicken with air-dried ham, melted Taleggio cheese, and a hollandaise sauce, and the salmon with an herby mustard crust. The braised lamb shank is another good dish, served in a beer sauce, or order whole lemon sole in a burnt butter sauce.

• © Frommer's 2013