Three girls tackle London

Our Local Expert Says:

Home to The Princess of Wales Playground -adults must be accompanied by a child. Warning: Your kids will not want to leave, it is truly fantastic. Search for the Peter Pan statue and eat yummy scones at The Orangery tucked beside the palace.

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An oasis of tranquillity in central London, Hyde Park, together with Kensington Gardens to the west, is the largest of the three royal parks. On the north-east side is Speaker's Corner, a traditional haven of free speech. It is also famous for the Serpentine boating lake, complete with a designated swimming area, and the Serpentine Gallery. Lesser known is the Dogs' Cemetery at the northern end of the park. The graves commemorate more than 200 pooches who enjoyed the park in their day.

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During World War II, newsreel footage reaching America showed St. Paul's Cathedral standing virtually alone among the rubble of the City, its dome lit by fires caused by bombings all around it. That the cathedral survived at all is a miracle, since it was badly hit twice during the early years of the bombardment of London. But St. Paul's is accustomed to calamity, having been burned down three times and destroyed by invading Norsemen. The old St. Paul's was razed during the Great Fire of 1666, making way for a new structure designed by Sir Christopher Wren and built between 1675 and 1710. The cathedral is architectural genius Wren's ultimate masterpiece.

The classical dome of St. Paul's dominates the City's square mile. The golden cross surmounting it is 110m (361 ft.) above the ground; the golden ball on which the cross rests measures 2m (6 1/2 ft.) in diameter, though it looks like a marble from below. In the interior of the dome is the Whispering Gallery, an acoustic marvel in which the faintest whisper can be heard clearly on the opposite side. Sit on one side, have your traveling companions sit on the other, and whisper away. You can climb to the top of the dome for a 360-degree view of London. A second steep climb leads from the Whispering Gallery to the Stone Gallery, which opens onto a panoramic view of London. Another 153 steps take you to the Inner Golden Gallery, situated at the top of the inner dome. Here an even more panoramic view of London unfolds.

Our Local Expert Says:

Perfect way to orient yourselves in the city before deciding which sights to investigate further. Book online for a discount. In low season the drivers often strike 2 for 1 deals & offer a 48 hour pass.

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You've probably seen these buses - along with London double-deckers, tour buses and more tour buses. Regardless of your usual attitude towards guided tours, these hop-on, hop-off tours are a good way to get an overview of the city, and you can make mental notes of where to go for a more thorough visit. The price you pay with Big Bus is for a 24-hour ticket; during this time you can travel anywhere on the tour network, which encompasses stops over just about all of central London. Included in the price is a free walking tour and Thames River cruise, as well as numerous discounts for West End shows. Guide tapes are available in 12 languages, and the company won the London Sightseeing Tour of the Year award. Be careful when choosing the open-air rooftop, because London is notorious for fickle weather.

Our Local Expert Says:

Skip the crowds close to the buildings, cross the Thames and view these iconic structures from the South Bank.

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Think of London and the very first image that springs to mind will be that of the grand clock towering over the Thames river. Big Ben is actually the nickname given to the bell inside the tower. The tower is officially called St. Stephen's Tower. Ben chimes every hour on the hour and the smaller bells ring every 15 minutes. Unfortunately, as much as it beckons, only UK residents are allowed to tour Big Ben and even this has to be arranged well  in advance by their MP. The good news however is that next to the famous clock tower, the Houses of Parliament - which are made up of the House of Lords and the House of Commons - can be toured by overseas visitors. The building which is home to both "houses" is the (former royal) Palace of Westminster, once home to the British monarchs. Every year in England, November 5th is commemorated with fireworks and bonfires which celebrate the foiled gunpowder plot of Guy Fawkes in 1605. Listen to the chimes of Big Ben

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You're looking at London's oldest outdoor monument. This 3400-year-old, 68-ft (21-m) tall pink granite obelisk was quarried from Aswan c 1475 BC and was erected in Egypt around 1500BC by Pharaoh Thotmes III. It stood outside the palace in which Cleopatra had died in 30 BC – hence its name. In 1819 it was offered to the British government as a thank you for defeating the French at the Battle of the Nile. It took 5 months to ship this 68-ton monster from Alexandria to the Embankment, London. And yes, the sphinxes that now face inwards, should of course be facing outwards, "guarding" (as opposed to staring at) the obelisk. So why did no-one say that to the cleaning contractor before he repositioned them back to front? Buried beneath are two "time capsules"; earthenware containers enclosing objects which might be dug up by future generations and regarded as "typical" of the time. They contain bibles in various languages; a box of hairpins; a box of cigars; a hydraulic jack; copies of an engineering magazine and portraits of 12 of the most beautiful Englishwomen of the day.

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With its identical square towers and superb archways, this early-English Gothic abbey is one of the greatest examples of ecclesiastical architecture on earth. But it's far more than that: It's the shrine of a nation, the symbol of everything Britain has stood for and stands for, and the place in which most of its rulers were crowned and where many lie buried.

Nearly every figure in English history has left his or her mark on Westminster Abbey. Edward the Confessor founded the Benedictine abbey in 1065 on this spot overlooking Parliament Square. The first English king crowned in the Abbey may have been Harold, in January 1066. The man who defeated him at the Battle of Hastings later that year, William the Conqueror, had the first recorded coronation in the Abbey on Christmas Day that same year. The coronation tradition has continued to the present day. The essentially early-English Gothic structure existing today owes more to Henry III's plans than to those of any other sovereign, although many architects, including Wren, have contributed to the Abbey.

Built on the site of the ancient Lady Chapel in the early 16th century, the Henry VII Chapel is one of the loveliest in Europe, with its fan vaulting, Knights of Bath banners, and Torrigiani-designed tomb for the king himself, near which hangs a 15th-century Vivarini painting, Madonna and Child. Also here, ironically buried in the same tomb, are Catholic Mary I and Protestant Elizabeth I (whose archrival, Mary Queen of Scots, is entombed on the other side of the Henry VII Chapel). In one end of the chapel, you can stand on Cromwell's memorial stone and view the Royal Air Force Chapel and its Battle of Britain memorial window, unveiled in 1947 to honor the Royal Air Force.

You can also visit the most hallowed spot in the abbey, the shrine of Edward the Confessor (canonized in the 12th c.). Near the tomb of Henry V is the Coronation Chair, made at the command of Edward I in 1300 to display the mystical Stone of Scone (which some think is the sacred stone mentioned in Genesis and known as Jacob's Pillar). Scottish kings were once crowned on the stone. (It has since been returned to Scotland.)

When you see a statue of the Bard, with one arm resting on a stack of books, you've arrived at Poets' Corner. Shakespeare himself is buried at Stratford-upon-Avon, but resting here are Chaucer, Samuel Johnson, Tennyson, Browning, and Dickens. There's even an American, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, as well as monuments to just about everybody: Milton, Keats, Shelley, Henry James, T. S. Eliot, George Eliot, and others. The most stylized monument is Sir Jacob Epstein's sculptured bust of William Blake. More-recent tablets commemorate poet Dylan Thomas and Sir Laurence Olivier.

Statesmen and men of science -- Disraeli, Newton, Charles Darwin -- are also interred in the abbey or honored by monuments. Near the west door is the 1965 memorial to Sir Winston Churchill. In the vicinity of this memorial is the tomb of the Unknown Warrior, commemorating the British dead of World War I.

Although most of the Abbey's statuary commemorates notable figures of the past, 10 new statues were unveiled in July 1998. Placed in the Gothic niches above the West Front door, these statues honor 10 modern-day martyrs drawn from every continent and religious denomination. The sculptures include Elizabeth of Russia, Janani Luwum, and Martin Luther King, Jr., representatives of those who have sacrificed their lives for their beliefs.

Off the Cloisters, the College Garden is the oldest garden in England, under cultivation for more than 900 years. Established in the 11th century as the abbey's first infirmary garden, this was once a magnificent source of fruits, vegetables, and medicinal herbs. Five of the trees in the garden were planted in 1850 and they continue to thrive today. Surrounded by high walls, flowering trees dot the lawns, and park benches provide comfort where you can hardly hear the roar of passing traffic. The garden is open only Tuesday through Thursday April through September from 10am to 6pm, and October through March from 10am to 4pm.

Insider's Tip: Far removed from the pomp and glory is the Abbey Treasure Museum, which displays a real bag of oddities in the undercroft -- or crypt -- part of the monastic buildings erected between 1066 and 1100. You'll find royal effigies that were used instead of the real corpses for lying-in-state ceremonies because they smelled better. You'll see the almost life-like effigy of Admiral Nelson (his mistress arranged his hair) and even that of Edward III, his lip warped by the cerebral hemorrhage that felled him. Other oddities include Henry V's funeral armor, a unique corset from Elizabeth I's effigy, and the Essex Ring that Elizabeth I gave to her favorite (Robert Devereux, the Earl of Essex) when she was feeling good about him.

On Sundays, the Abbey is not open to visitors; the rest of the church is open unless a service is being conducted. For times of services, phone the Chapter Office (tel. 020/7222-5152).

Our Local Expert Says:

Try a night ride for stunning view of the city or the private “Cupid’s Capsule” complete with champagne

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Many Londoners were none too happy when in the 135 meter high Millennium Wheel (as was first known) was erected in 1999 to commemorate the "turning of the century".  Now known simply as the London Eye, locals have softened and have even taken a ride or two in one of the 32 capsules which hold up to 25 people each. Views up to 25 miles can be observed on a clear day and evening rides are available to see an illuminated London. Weddings, private events and children's birthday parties are held within the London Eye's pods. Special packages are designed for every season and holiday, the wheel glows with matching lights for the occasion. Even with pre-booked capsules expect lines; however, entertainment in the area is abundant with street performers, a playground and a carousel. Grab the camera because the best part of the London Eye is the most breath-taking view of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament across the Thames at ground level. A journey lasts approximately 30 minutes.

Our Local Expert Says:

Saturated with fascinating history, spend the day

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This ancient fortress continues to pack in the crowds with its macabre associations with the legendary figures imprisoned and/or executed here. There are more spooks here per square foot than in any other building in the whole of haunted Britain. Headless bodies, bodiless heads, phantom soldiers, icy blasts, clanking chains -- you name them, the Tower's got them. Centuries after the last head rolled on Tower Hill, a shivery atmosphere of impending doom still lingers over the Tower's mighty walls. Plan on spending a lot of time here.

The Tower is actually an intricately patterned compound of structures built through the ages for varying purposes, mostly as expressions of royal power. The oldest is the White Tower, begun by William the Conqueror in 1078 to keep London's native Saxon population in check. Later rulers added other towers, more walls, and fortified gates, until the buildings became like a small town within a city. Until the reign of James I (beginning in 1603), the Tower was also one of the royal residences. But above all, it was a prison for distinguished captives.

Every stone of the Tower tells a story -- usually a gory one. In the Bloody Tower, according to Shakespeare, Richard III's henchmen murdered the two little princes (the young sons of his brother, Edward IV). Richard knew his position as king could not be secure as long as his nephews were alive, and there seems no reasonable doubt that the princes were killed on his orders. Attempts have been made by some historians to clear his name, but Richard remains the chief suspect, and his deed caused him to lose the "hearts of the people," according to the Chronicles of London at the time.

Sir Walter Raleigh spent 13 years in the Bloody Tower before his date with the executioner. On the walls of the Beauchamp Tower, you can still read the last messages scratched by despairing prisoners. Through Traitors' Gate passed such ill-fated, romantic figures as Robert Devereux, the second Earl of Essex and a favorite of Elizabeth I. A plaque marks the eerie place at Tower Green where two wives of Henry VIII, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, plus Sir Thomas More, and the 9-day queen, Lady Jane Grey, all lost their lives.

The Tower, besides being a royal palace, a fortress, and a prison, was also an armory, a treasury, a menagerie, and, in 1675, an astronomical observatory. Reopened in 1999, the White Tower holds the Armouries, which date from the reign of Henry VIII, as well as a display of instruments of torture and execution that recall some of the most ghastly moments in the Tower's history. In the Jewel House, you'll find the Tower's greatest attraction, the Crown Jewels -- some of the world's most precious stones set into robes, swords, scepters, and crowns. The Imperial State Crown is the most famous crown on earth; made for Victoria in 1837, it's worn today by Queen Elizabeth II when she opens Parliament. Studded with some 3,000 jewels (principally diamonds), it includes the Black Prince's Ruby, worn by Henry V at Agincourt. The 530-carat Star of Africa, a cut diamond on the Royal Sceptre with Cross, would make Harry Winston turn over in his grave. You'll have to stand in long lines to catch just a glimpse of the jewels as you and hundreds of others scroll by on moving sidewalks, but the wait is worth it.

The presumed prison cell of Sir Thomas More is open to the public. More left this cell in 1535 to face his executioner after he'd fallen out with King Henry VIII over the monarch's desire to divorce Catherine of Aragon, the first of his six wives. More is believed to have lived in the lower part of the Bell Tower, here in this whitewashed cell, during the last 14 months of his life, although some historians doubt this claim.

A palace inhabited by King Edward I in the late 1200s stands above Traitors' Gate. It's the only surviving medieval palace in Britain. Guides at the palace are dressed in period costumes, and reproductions of furniture and fittings, including Edward's throne, evoke the era, along with burning incense and candles.

In 2004 several improvements were made, including the opening of a Visitors Center and the restoration of a 13th-century wharf. To the west of the Tower is the newly created Tower Hill Square, designed by Stanton Williams, with a series of pavilions housing ticketing facilities, a gift shop, and a cafeteria.

Oh, yes -- don't forget to look for the ravens. Six of them (plus two spares) are all registered as official Tower residents. According to a legend, the Tower of London will stand as long as those black, ominous birds remain, so to be on the safe side, one of the wings of each raven is clipped.

One-hour guided tours of the entire compound are given by the Yeoman Warders (also known as "Beefeaters") every half-hour, starting at 9:30am, from the Middle Tower near the main entrance. The last guided walk starts about 3:30pm in summer, 2:30pm in winter -- weather permitting, of course.

You can attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys, the ceremonial locking-up of the Tower by the Yeoman Warders. For free tickets, write to the Ceremony of the Keys, Waterloo Block, Tower of London, London EC3N 4AB, and request a specific date, but also list alternate dates. At least 6 weeks' notice is required. Accompany all requests with a stamped, self-addressed envelope (British stamps only) or two International Reply Coupons. With ticket in hand, a Yeoman Warder will admit you at 9:35pm. Frankly, we think it's not worth the trouble you go through to see this rather cheesy ceremony, but we know some who disagree with us.

Tower Tips -- You can spend the shortest time possible in the Tower's long lines if you buy your ticket at the kiosk at Tower Hill Tube station before emerging above ground. Even so, choose a day other than Sunday -- crowds are at their worst then -- and arrive as early as you can in the morning.

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In the South Bank complex, on the eighth floor of the Art Deco Oxo Tower Wharf, you'll find this dining sensation. Down the street from the rebuilt Globe Theatre, this 140-seat restaurant could be visited for its view alone, but the cuisine is also stellar. You'll enjoy a sweeping view of St. Paul's Cathedral and the City, all the way to the Houses of Parliament. The decor is chic 1930s style. The cuisine, under Chef David Sharland, is rich and prepared with finesse. Menu items change based on the season and the market. Count on a modern interpretation of British cookery, as well as the English classics. The fish is incredibly fresh here. The whole sea bass for two is delectable, as is the roast rump of lamb with split pea, mint purée, and balsamic vinegar sauce. We were impressed with the roast filet of plaice with olive oil and truffle cabbage cream, and the roast squab with buttered cabbage and a foie-gras sauce.

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This historic cabaret venue has been treated to a cool, contemporary catch-up. Recently reopened, the small musical drinking den is another string to the bow of owner Piers Adam, who presides over other capital assets such as the K-bar. With a members' bar and underground social hideaway for celebs, it also attracts Soho media and west London cliques. Undeniably divey, it exudes a kind of exclusive seediness, combining the oddest of ents in the live cabaret acts with DJs and dancing, chilled chats and alcoholic abandon, where any attitude goes.

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Set in scholarly Bloomsbury, this immense museum grew out of a private collection of manuscripts purchased in 1753 with the proceeds of a lottery. It grew and grew, fed by legacies, discoveries, and purchases, until it became one of the most comprehensive collections of art and artifacts in the world. It's impossible to take in this museum in a day.

The museum is divided basically into the national collections of antiquities; prints and drawings; coins, medals, and banknotes; and ethnography. Even on a cursory first visit, be sure to see the Asian collections (the finest assembly of Islamic pottery outside the Islamic world), the Chinese porcelain, the Indian sculpture, and the prehistoric and Romano-British collections. Special treasures you might want to seek out on your first visit include the Rosetta Stone, in the Egyptian Room, the discovery of which led to the deciphering of hieroglyphics; the Parthenon Sculptures, a series of pediments, metopes, and friezes from the Parthenon in Athens, in the Duveen Gallery; and the legendary Black Obelisk, dating from around 860 B.C., in the Nimrud Gallery. Other treasures include the contents of Egyptian royal tombs (including mummies); fabulous arrays of 2,000-year-old jewelry, cosmetics, weapons, furniture, and tools; Babylonian astronomical instruments; and winged lion statues (in the Assyrian Transept) that guarded Ashurnasirpal's palace at Nimrud. The exhibits change throughout the year, so if your heart is set on seeing a specific treasure, call to make sure it's on display.

Insider's Tip: If you're a first-time visitor, you will, of course, want to concentrate on some of the fabled treasures previewed above. But what we do is duck into the British Museum several times on our visits to London, even if we have only an hour or two, to see the less heralded but equally fascinating exhibits. We recommend wandering rooms 33 and 34, and 91 to 94, to take in the glory of the Orient, covering Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism. The Chinese collection is particularly strong. Sculpture from India is as fine as anything at the Victoria and Albert. The Mexican Gallery in room 33C traces that country's art from the 2nd millennium B.C. to the 16th century A.D. A gallery for the North American collection is also nearby. Another section of the museum is devoted to the Sainsbury African Galleries, one of the finest collections of African art and artifacts in the world, featuring changing displays selected from more than 200,000 objects. Finally, the Money Gallery in room 68, traces the story of (what else?) money. You'll learn that around 2000 B.C. in Mesopotamia, grain was used as currency, and that printed money came into being in the 10th century in China.

The museum's inner courtyard is now canopied by a lightweight, transparent roof, transforming the area into a covered square that houses a Centre for Education, exhibition space, bookshops, and restaurants. The center of the Great Court features the Round Reading Room, which is famous as the place where Karl Marx hung out while writing Das Kapital.

Finally, a warning: Watch your wallets when you're standing in crowds, particularly in front of the Rosetta Stone. The museum is free and tends to attract a few grab-happy drifters.

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Located at chic St Martins Lane Hotel, Asia de Cuba is the new hot spot for the young and trendy. The ambiance is bold and buzzing with its art columns and dangling lights. Come savor the fine Asian and Cuban cuisine, as well as a variety of cocktails.

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Based in the heart of London's West End, this slightly unkempt theater shows an eclectic range of productions, from drama and comedy to musicals and experimental theater. Cabaret, bio-sketches, Theatre de Complicit physical theater and even Gilbert and Sullivan have graced the stage. Its rough-around-the-edges appeal provides a charming change of pace from the other glossy tourist magnets in the area. The theater holds a maximum of 1,000 people, including seating and access for wheelchairs. There are also facilities for the hard of hearing, and the theater benefits from air conditioning. Well situated and always well attended, this venue promises a great night out.

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Traditional British fare par excellence is served at this quintessentially English establishment. The spacious, panelled room and exemplary service still sparks off nostalgia for older diners and epitomises English traditions for the visitor—Winston Churchill was a regular diner at The Savoy's formal dining room. It's the perfect place for a carnivorous lunch and, not surprisingly, wonderful roasts and grills are served, along with sensational seasonal game and well-prepared fish. Men must wear a jacket and tie when dining here, and tables must always be booked.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you only visit one nightclub in England during your stay, come here.

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Fabric has been in the vanguard of electronic dance music, dominating the London club scene for over a decade now, and shows no signs of fading. Its playlists are dedicated to cutting-edge house, techno, electro, disco and dub-techno. The club occupies an awesomely huge space in a former meat-packing warehouse space in the old Smithfield meat market complete with vibrating dance floor. And the power surge is such that when they turn on the underfoot subwoofer, lights dim in parts of the adjacent East End! Casual dress is the code ("no fancy dress, business suits or any day glow wear"). Students can get in for just £10 and early morning party people (after 3am) pay only £7. Saturday night/Sunday morning (10am-7/8am) is the big one.

Our Local Expert Says:

Ask for the free kids' backpacks & goody bags. Children's workshops run on weekends.

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The National Portrait Gallery houses portraits of movers and shakers in British history from the Tudors to the present day making it a must for lovers of art. Founded in 1856, the collection on display is amongst the most comprehensive in the world and no restrictions are placed on the mediums used. As well as the traditional oil paintings and watercolours there are drawings, miniatures, sculptures, silhouettes, caricatures and photographs. The subjects on show range from Oliver Cromwell to Jarvis Cocker. Admission is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

Love this park… great "I'm in London!" views, full of ducks, geese, & even enormous pelicans which are fed daily at 2:30 - what a sight. Try to snag a seat at the family friendly café Inn the Park for their award winning food.

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St. James's Park and Green Park lie next to each other to the north and east of Buckingham Palace. The view from the bridge towards Whitehall (pictured) is particularly pleasing and the lake is famous for its waterfowl, especially the black swans. With its well-groomed flowerbeds and summer concerts, the park remains a big favourite with Londoners and tourists alike. Office workers swarm into St James's on fine summer days to eat their lunch and enjoy the sunshine. Henry VIII acquired the land in the early 16th century at the same time as Hyde Park.

Our Local Expert Says:

Browse through iconic London department store Liberty within the gorgeous timber framed Tudor building. For funkier shops & food try the pedestrianized area of Carnaby Street.

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At the bustling intersection of Regent and Oxford Streets rests Oxford Circus. The square is the ideal place for people watching because the steady stream of pedestrians persists throughout the night. Several cafes and shops line the square.

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Few bars in London can rival the tolerance, humor, and sexual sophistication found here. The first two floors are done up with decorations that, like an English garden, change with the seasons. Dance music can be found on the crowded, high-energy lower floors. Three menus are featured: a funky daytime menu, a cafe menu, and a late-night menu. Dancers hit the floors starting around 7:30pm. Clientele ranges from flamboyantly gay to hetero pub-crawlers. One downside: A reader claims the bartenders water the drinks. Open Monday to Saturday noon to 1am and Sunday 2pm to 11:30pm.

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For many years, Piccadilly Circus - at the junction of five busy streets - has been a major London landmark, seen by many as the capital's centre. In the daytime it's a bustling area filled with shoppers, business people and tourists. But visit in the evening to see the area really come alive, with its sparkling illuminated signs and heady mix of clubbers and couples ready for a big evening out. At the heart of Piccadilly is a fountain topped with the aluminium statue of an archer. Although affectionately known as Eros by Londoners, it's actually the Angel of Christian Charity by Sir Alfred Gilbert, and it was so unpopular when first unveiled that he opted for self-imposed exile. Today the statue is one of London's most famous sites and a haven for tourists and romantic couples alike. This is truly the gateway to the West End.

Our Local Expert Says:

No visit to London is complete without coming here

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London's great public pedestrianized square, at the foot of the National Gallery, is known for its four majestic lions standing guard under the base of Lord Nelson's Column. The column was erected in 1832 then two years later the beautiful fountains were added. Once famed for the pigeon problem, the square now has a resident hawk to keep them at bay.

The square is the sight for London's political demonstrations and rallies as well as the city's Christmas tree and New Year's Eve celebrations. Festivals, concerts and performances are regularly held in the square.

Under the statue of Charles I on his horse in the Trafalgar Square marks the center of London. It is from here where all signs distances are measured.

The Fourth Plinth art project displays a rotating piece of public art in the square.

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The majestically imposing Palace Theatre curves its redbrick façade around the constant commotion of Cambridge Circus. Constructed as an opera house in 1891, it has impressively been showing one of London's most famous and successful musicals, "Les Misérables" a production based on the novel by Victor Hugo, for years. The theatre itself holds around 1,400 people, and the house is always filled to capacity with hordes of enthusiastic visitors and repeat audience members. Dining facilities, including a brasserie and snack bar, open one hour before each performance. The Palace provides access for disabled theatregoers as well as facilities for the hard of hearing.

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This massive, graceful building is the official residence of the Queen. The red-brick palace was built as a country house for the notoriously rakish Duke of Buckingham. In 1762, King George III, who needed room for his 15 children, bought it. It didn't become the official royal residence, though, until Queen Victoria took the throne; she preferred it to St. James's Palace. From George III's time, the building was continuously expanded and remodeled, faced with Portland stone, and twice bombed (during the Blitz). Located in a 16-hectare (40-acre) garden, it's 108m (354 ft.) long and contains 600 rooms. You can tell whether the Queen is at home by checking to see if the Royal Standard is flying from the mast outside. For most of the year, you can't visit the palace without an official invitation. Since 1993, though, much of it has been open for tours during an 8-week period in August and September, when the royal family is usually vacationing outside London. Elizabeth II agreed to allow visitors to tour the State Room, the Grand Staircase, the Throne Room, and other areas designed by John Nash for George IV, as well as the Picture Gallery, which displays masterpieces by Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Rubens, and others. You have to buy a timed-entrance ticket the same day you plan to tour the palace. Tickets go on sale at 9am, but rather than lining up at sunrise with all the other tourists -- this is one of London's most popular attractions -- book by phone with a credit card and give yourself a few more hours of sleep.

During the 8 weeks of summer, visitors are also allowed to stroll through the royal family's garden, along a 4.5km (2.75-mile) walk on the south side of the grounds, with views of a lake and the usually off-limits west side of the palace. The garden is home to 30 types of birds, plus 350 varieties of wildflowers.

Buckingham Palace's most famous spectacle is the vastly overrated Changing of the Guard (daily Apr-July and on alternating days for the rest of the year). The new guard, marching behind a band, comes from either the Wellington or Chelsea barracks and takes over from the old guard in the forecourt of the palace. The ceremony begins at 11:30am, although it's frequently canceled because of bad weather, state events, and other, harder-to-fathom reasons. We like the changing of the guard at Horse Guards better because you can actually see the men marching and you don't have to battle such tourist hordes. However, few first-time visitors will resist the lure of the Buckingham Palace Changing of the Guard. If that includes you, arrive as early as 10:30am and claim territorial rights to a space in front of the palace. If you're not firmly anchored here, you'll miss much of the ceremony.

Timesaver -- With 4km (2 1/2 miles) of galleries, the British Museum is overwhelming. To get a handle on it, we recommend taking a 1 1/2-hour overview tour for £8 ($16), £5 ($10) for students and children under 11. Daily at 10:30am, 1pm, or 3pm. Afterward, you can return to the galleries that most interest you. If you have limited time to spend on the museum, concentrate on the Greek and Roman rooms (nos. 11-23, 69-73, and 77-85), which hold the golden hoard of booty both bought and stolen from the Empire's once far-flung colonies.

The Guard Doesn't Change Every Day -- The schedule for the Changing of the Guard ceremony is variable, at best. In theory, at least, the guard is changed daily from May to mid-July, at which time it goes on its "winter" schedule -- that is, alternating days. Always check locally with the tourist office to see if it's likely to be staged at the time of your visit. The ceremony has sometimes been cut at the last minute, leaving thousands of visitors feeling they have missed out on a London must-see (though we say it's overrated anyway).

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The Black Friar will transport you to the Edwardian era. The wedge-shape pub is swimming in marble and bronze Art Nouveau, featuring bas-reliefs of monks, a low-vaulted mosaic ceiling, and seating recesses carved out of gold marble. It's popular with the City's after-work crowd, and it features Adams, London Pride, and Speckled Hen on tap.

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This is a great pub, busy most nights and packed at weekends with a young, beautiful Chelsea crowd who are, on the whole, believers in a very pure form of hedonism. The buzzing atmosphere and clientele are fun and epitomize the ambiance of this stretch of Fulham Road. The main part of the pub is divided into three levels and has plenty of alfresco benches with overhead gas heaters. There's a small cocktail bar down a few steps from the main bar, with friendly and truly skillful bartenders. Down a few more steps, there's table football and video games for when you feel like a short break. There is large function room available for private parties.