Budget Travel in Los Angeles

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The Angels Flight funicular is piece of historic Los Angeles that dates from 1901 when Bunker Hill was an upscale neighborhood. Since that time the Bunker Hill neighborhood first lost its luster and then was completely razed (the area at the top of the hill is now the site of MOCA and a number of concert halls, including the Gehry Disney landmark). In the 1990's the Angels Flight railway was moved half a block south and became more of a historic landmark ride than a day-to-day transportation solution. Recently the track has been rebuilt yet again (it is a state of the art funicular system with computer monitoring and redundant braking systems). The original cars, named Olivet and Sinai, still ferry people up the steep incline for the super affordable fee of a quarter. This is definitely a great way to both navigate downtown Los Angeles and experience a bit of the city as it once was.

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Opened in 1917, this is market has rolled with times and remains an attractive and fun destination. The space is enclosed but has an open air feel to it, complete with sawdust on the floor. Inside are many prepared food vendors (Mexican, Middle-Eastern, Hawaiian, Japanese. . . .) as well as stalls selling groceries.  There is also coffee and frozen yogurt available. . . and everything is priced affordablely. With a $10 purchase here you can get validation for 1 hour parking at the DOT lot located at 308 South Hill Street. The Grand Central Market is located downtown right between the (now re-opened) Angels Flight funicular and the Bradbury Building. Overall this is a great spot to get lunch while you are exploring downtown.

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This is one of L.A.'s early architectural achievements and the third-largest library in the United States. The city rallied to save the library when arson nearly destroyed it in 1986; the triumphant restoration has returned much of its original splendor. Working in the early 1920s, architect Bertram G. Goodhue employed the Egyptian motifs and materials popularized by the discovery of King Tut's tomb, and combined them with a more modern use of concrete block to great effect. Walking tours are the best way to explore this old beauty; they're led Monday through Friday at 12:30pm, Saturday at 11am and 2pm, and Sunday at 2pm. Warning: Parking in this area can involve a heroic effort. Try visiting on the weekend and using the Flower Street parking entrance; the library will validate your ticket, and you can escape for only $2.

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This is one of the last remaining old L.A. eateries in downtown. In years gone by, Angeleno families would make a trip here for dinner as a special Sunday outing. If you are looking for a square meal while making the rounds of downtown points of interest, it will not disappoint you. Located right in the heart of Broadway, the clientele is mostly Latino. During the week it is primarily shoppers and workers from the nearby stores, but there are more families on weekends. The decor is cornball tropical island complete with faux streams and brooks. If you were taken here as a child, there were memorable choices, such as the Jell-O with whipped cream topping or the pineapple upside down cake. Heavier fare includes the standard mashed potatoes and gravy, roast beef, fish, or chicken. Of course this is just a sampling of the many dishes offered, past and present, at this venerable dining spot.

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This theater district (also known as the Broadway district) stretches from Third Street to Olympic Boulevard. It was the first district of its kind to be listed on the National Register of Historic Places. There are a dozen major theaters covering a six-block area. Theaters on this strip include the Million Dollar Theater, the Los Angeles Theater and the United Artists Theater. Recently, the L.A. Conservancy has been working to revitalize this district and make it a center of downtown life. They give tours of the area; call the number listed for more information.
 
Also note this guide of historic theaters through-out the Los Angeles area.

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Built in 1928, the 27-story Los Angeles City Hall was the tallest building in the city for more than 30 years. The structure's distinctive ziggurat tower was designed to resemble the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. The building has been featured in numerous films and television shows, but it is probably best known as the headquarters of the Daily Planet in the Superman TV series (or from Beverly Hills Cop, depending on your birth date). When it was built, City Hall was the sole exception to an ordinance outlawing buildings taller than 150 feet. While you're here, be sure to take the elevator to the rarely used 27th-floor Observation Deck -- on a clear day (yeah, right), you can see to Mount Wilson 15 miles away. Free docent-led tours are available at 10 and 11am Monday through Friday, and self-guided tours are available at other times. Call tel. 213/978-1995 for tour information.

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Union Station, completed in 1939, is one of the finest examples of California mission-style architecture and one of the last of America's great rail stations. It was built with the opulence and attention to detail that characterize 1930s WPA projects, such as its cathedral-like size and richly paneled ticket lobby and waiting area. When you're strolling through these grand historic halls, it's easy to imagine the glamorous movie stars who once boarded The City of Los Angeles and The Super Chief to journey back East during the glory days of rail travel; it's also easy to picture the many heartfelt reunions between returning soldiers and loved ones following the victorious end to World War II, in the station's heyday. Movies shot here include Bugsy, The Way We Were, and Blade Runner. There's always been a restaurant in the station; the latest to occupy this unusually beautiful setting is Traxx.

Our Local Expert Says:

The birthplace of Los Angeles

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Olvera Street is, like most of Los Angeles, a combination of authentic history, reconstructed fantasy and pure fun. Situated in the middle of Downtown, Olvera Street has been turned into a lively market place reminiscent of Old Mexico. It was here that Los Angeles was founded in the late 1700s as El Pueblo de Nuesta Señora Reina de los Ángeles. In the 1930s, it was turned into a Mexican oasis in the middle of a burgeoning and thriving Downtown. Olvera Street continues to attract locals and visitors alike with an assortment of Mexican restaurants, small curios shops and historical markers.

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Many Chinese settled in this once-rural area during the second half of the 19th century. Today, most Angelenos of Chinese descent are well integrated into the city's suburbs; few can be found living in this rough pocket of Downtown. But though the neighborhood hardly compares in quality or size to the Chinese quarters of London, San Francisco, or New York, Chinatown's bustling little mom-and-pop shops and profusion of ethnic restaurants provide an interesting Downtown diversion.

Chinatown centers on a mall, Mandarin Plaza, 970 N. Broadway, reconstructed in 1938 a few blocks from its original site just south of Dodger Stadium. Go on a Sunday morning for dim sum at Empress Pavilion, 988 N. Hill St. (tel. 213/617-9898), and then browse through the collection of shops jammed with Chinese slippers, cheap jewelry, and china. You'll also find some upscale stores specializing in inlaid furniture, Asian art, fine silks, and other imports.

Chinatown is especially worth going out of your way for during Chinese New Year, a month-long celebration that usually begins in late January. The neighborhood explodes into a colorful fantasy of sights and sounds with the Golden Dragon Parade, a beauty pageant, and a 5K/10K run. There are plenty of firecrackers and all the Lin Go New Year's cakes you can eat. For more information about Chinatown, log on to www.chinatownla.com.

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Started in 1931, the Clougherty Packing company adopted the Farmer John brand name in 1953. Several years later, in 1957, work began on the audacious and now historic mural project around their slaughterhouse and meat packing plant just south of downtown. The first painter was Leslie Allen Grimes, who worked on site for 11 years until falling to his death from the scaffolding. Arno Jordan took over maintaining and adding to the murals until 1998. The current painters are Philip Slagter, A.J. Slagter, and Eddi Milan (a.k.a. Ed1).  Hormel acquired this slaughterhouse in 2004 for 186 million dollars. The Hormel company continues to both use the Farmer John brand name and maintain this historic public artwork.

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Mining tycoon Col. Griffith J. Griffith donated these 4,107 acres to the city in 1896 as a Christmas gift. Today Griffith Park is the largest urban park in America. There's a lot to do here, including 53 miles of hiking trails (the prettiest is the Fern Dell trail near the Western Ave. entrance, a shady hideaway cooled by waterfalls and ferns), horseback riding, golfing, swimming, biking, and picnicking. For a general overview of the park, drive the mountainous loop road that winds from the top of Western Avenue, past Griffith Observatory, and down to Vermont Avenue. For a more extensive foray, turn north at the loop road's midsection, onto Mount Hollywood Drive. To reach the golf courses, the Museum of the American West, or Los Angeles Zoo, take Los Feliz Boulevard to Riverside Drive, which runs along the park's western edge.

Near the zoo, in a particularly dusty corner of the park, you can find the Travel Town Transportation Museum, 5200 Zoo Dr. (tel. 323/662-5874), a little-known outdoor museum with a small collection of vintage locomotives and old airplanes. Kids love the miniature train ride that circles the perimeter of the museum. The museum is open Monday through Friday from 10am to 4pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 5pm; admission is free.

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These famous 50-foot-high white sheet-metal letters have come to symbolize the movie industry and the city itself. The sign was erected on Mount Lee in 1923 as an advertisement for a real-estate development. The full text originally read HOLLYWOODLAND and was lined with thousands of 20-watt bulbs around the letters (changed periodically by a caretaker who lived in a small house behind the sign). The sign gained dubious notoriety when actress Peg Entwistle leapt to her death from the "H" in 1932. The LAND section was damaged by a landslide, and the entire sign fell into major disrepair until the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce spearheaded a campaign to repair it (Hugh Hefner, Alice Cooper, Gene Autry, and Andy Williams were all major contributors). Officially completed in 1978, the 450-foot-long installation is now protected by a fence and motion detectors. The best view is from down below, at the corner of Sunset Boulevard and Bronson Avenue. Tip: It may look like it on a map, but Beachwood Drive does not lead to the sign. If you want to reach the sign on foot, it requires a rather arduous 5-mile round-trip hike on the Brush Canyon Trail in Griffith Park -- the trail head is at the end of Canyon Drive. For more information call the Griffith Park headquarters at tel. 323/913-4688.

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This is a slice of Venice Beach in Hollywood. Each Sunday morning this area is taken over by merchants selling everything from produce to handmade baskets. As many people only frequent the area for late-night clubs and gigs, this diversion can be a welcome surprise. There's plenty of free fun to be had exploring the stands for that perfect bargain. Specific offerings vary by week, but you can generally count on a plethora of entertaining toys and games to keep the kids occupied while the bigger kids shop. Admission and parking are free, and no credit cards are accepted.

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When the Hollywood honchos realized how limited the footprint space was at Grauman's Chinese Theatre, they came up with another way to pay tribute to the stars. Since 1960, more than 2,200 celebrities have been honored along the world's most famous sidewalk. Each bronze medallion, set into the center of a terrazzo star, pays homage to a famous television, film, radio, theater, or recording personality. Although about a third of them are just about as obscure as Michael Jackson's sexual preference -- their fame simply hasn't withstood the test of time -- millions of visitors are thrilled by the sight of famous names like James Dean (1719 Vine St.), John Lennon (1750 Vine St.), Marlon Brando (1765 Vine St.), Rudolph Valentino (6164 Hollywood Blvd.), Marilyn Monroe (6744 Hollywood Blvd.), Elvis Presley (6777 Hollywood Blvd.), Greta Garbo (6901 Hollywood Blvd.), Louis Armstrong (7000 Hollywood Blvd.), Barbra Streisand (6925 Hollywood Blvd.), and Eddie Murphy (7000 Hollywood Blvd.). Gene Autry is all over the place: The singing cowboy earned five different stars (a sidewalk record), one in each category.

The sight of bikers, metalheads, homeless wanderers, and hordes of disoriented tourists all treading on memorials to Hollywood's greats makes for a bizarre and somewhat tacky tribute. But the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce has been doing a terrific job sprucing up the pedestrian experience with filmstrip crosswalks, swaying palms, and more. And at least 1 weekend a month, a group of fans calling themselves Star Polishers busy themselves scrubbing tarnished medallions.

The legendary sidewalk is continually adding new names, such as Muhammad Ali in front of the Kodak Theatre. The public is invited to attend dedication ceremonies; the honoree -- who pays a whopping $15,000 for the eternal upkeep -- is usually in attendance. Contact the Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, 6255 Sunset Blvd., Ste. 911, Hollywood, CA 90028 (tel. 323/469-8311), for information on who's being honored this week.

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Runyon Canyon, nestled in the heart of Hollywood, gives any visitor to Los Angeles the power to enjoy nature and work up a sweat. Situated on 130 acres of protected recreation park land, Runyon Canyon is primarily known for its off-leash hiking, but a secluded children's park also allows families and yoga groups to enjoy the Canyon's natural beauty. Upon entering, visitors can choose three different trails that loop around each other, differing in their intensity and physical impact. Runyon Canyon is essentially off-leash, so dogs and their owners run gleefully and unimpaired. There are no services, so visitors should be prepared to take their own food and equipment. With its proximity to Hollywood, celebrities from across the gamut are seen frequenting the park and exercising to keep their celebrity figures. The Hollywood Sign, Griffith Observatory and Downtown are viewed brilliantly from the Canyon's summit.

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Since opening in 1997, the Richard Meier-designed Getty Center has quickly assumed its place in the L.A. landscape (literally and figuratively) as the city's cultural acropolis and international mecca. Headquarters for the Getty Trust's research, education, philanthropic, and conservation concerns, the postmodernist complex -- perched on a hillside in the Santa Monica Mountains and swathed in Italian travertine marble -- is most frequently visited for the museum galleries displaying the Getty's enormous collection of Impressionist paintings, truckloads of glimmering French furniture and decorative arts, fine illuminated manuscripts, contemporary photography, and European drawings. The area that's open to the public consists of five two-story pavilions set around an open courtyard, and each gallery within is specially designed to complement the works on display. A sophisticated system of programmable window louvers allows many works (particularly paintings) to be displayed in the natural light in which they were created for the first time in the modern era. One of these is van Gogh's Irises, one of the museum's finest and most popular holdings. Trivia buffs will enjoy knowing that the museum spent $53.9 million to acquire this painting; it's displayed in a complex that cost roughly $1 billion to construct.

A new addition to the Getty Center is the Fran and Ray Stark Sculpture Collection. This collection of 28 modern and contemporary outdoor sculptures from the collection of the late legendary film producer Ray Stark and his wife Fran was donated to the Getty Museum by the Ray Stark Revocable Trust and features many of the 20th century's greatest sculptors, including works by Roy Lichtenstein, Joan Miró, and Isamu Noguchi.

Visitors to the center park at the base of the hill and ascend via a cable-driven electric tram. On clear days, the sensation is of being in the clouds, gazing across Los Angeles and the Pacific Ocean (and into a few chic Brentwood backyards). If you're like me and don't remember a thing from your college art-appreciation class (like I even went), get one of the new GettyGuide Audio Guides at the information desk. The nifty device allows visitors to take their own guided tour through the Getty Museum. The 45-minute human-led architectural tours, offered throughout the day, are also worth looking into. Dining options include several espresso/snack carts, a cafeteria, a self-service cafe, and the elegant (though informal) "Restaurant" offering table service for lunch (Tues-Sun) and dinner (Fri-Sat), with breathtaking views overlooking the ocean and mountains (restaurant reservations are recommended, though walk-ins are accepted; call tel. 310/440-6810 or make reservations online at www.getty.edu).

Realizing that fine-art museums can be boring for kids, the center provides several clever programs for kids, including a family room filled with hands-on activities for families; weekend family workshops; Art Detective cards to help parents and kids explore the grounds and galleries; and self-guided audio tours made specifically for families.

Entrance to the Getty Center is free and no reservations are required. Cameras and video cams are permitted, but only if you use existing light (flash units are verboten).

Seeing the Getty Without the Crowd -- Avoid the masses at the Getty Center by visiting in the late afternoon or evening; the center is open until 9pm Friday and Saturday. The nighttime view is breathtaking, and you can finish with a late dinner on the Westside.

Description:

This 1950s relic of old Route 66 has far more character than most other motels in its price range. The rooms are small, clean, and simply furnished with the basics. The double/doubles are spacious enough for shares, but budget-minded families will prefer the extra-large configuration dedicated to them, which has a king-size bed and two doubles. The best rooms are in the front building surrounding the gated swimming pool, shielded from the street and inviting in warm weather. The grounds are attractive and well kept, if you don't count the AstroTurf "lawn" on the pool deck. The location is relatively quiet (considering it's on a busy strip of Colorado Blvd. directly across from the Pasadena Community College) and very convenient, just off the Foothill (210) Freeway about a mile from the Huntington Library and within 10 minutes of both the Rose Bowl and Old Pasadena.

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Located in downtown Los Angeles, this Asian-themed hotel is within 4 miles of Staples Center and the convention center. The Royal Pagoda Motel offers data ports, cable/satellite TV with premium channels, and compact refrigerators. Guests of the hotel have access to a 24-hour front desk, complimentary coffee in the lobby, and free parking.

Our Local Expert Says:

Affordable hotel in Little Tokyo

Description:

Enjoy the flavor of Japanese hospitality and lodging accommodations in the heart of downtown Los Angeles, California. The Miyako Hotel offers excellent service and a host of amenities. Conveniently located near major business centers and entertainment attractions, this hotel is the right choice for business or pleasure. Accommodations and lodging features spacious guest rooms, a Japanese Restaurant, a Karaoke bar/lounge, a health Spa and banquet facilities.

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This hotel is located right in the heart of Chinatown where you will be completely immersed in the colorful local culture. It is close to the Los Angeles Convention Center, Universal Studios and Dodger Stadium. The rooms are decorated with vibrant Chinese flair and have been recently renovated. There is a shop selling traditional Chinese herbs inside. This is definitely a unique hotel experience not to be missed if you have any interest in Chinatown.

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The Hollywood Historic Hotel has been providing quality lodging to visitors of Los Angeles since 1927. It is centrally located near popular destinations such as the Sunset Strip, Paramount Pictures and the Hollywood Walk of Fame. Guests give solid reviews to their rooms, praising them as affordable and relatively clean and spacious. Some guests complain, however, that the hotel is badly in need of a renovation and is not always well kept. Though amenities are sparse, guests do appreciate having access to televisions with premium cable programming, small work desks and in-room air conditioning. While the hotel does not have a restaurant, guests report that there are numerous superb dining options nearby along bustling Melrose Avenue.

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This Hollywood hotel is one mile from the Hollywood Bowl and three miles from Universal Studios.Guestroom amenities include complimentary wireless Internet access, cable TV, and complimentary newspapers.The hotel provides an outdoor courtyard pool. Complimentary Continental breakfast is served daily.

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The Sheraton Gateway Los Angeles Hotel is consistently ranked as one of the finest hotels in the area. Located in the immediate vicinity of the Los Angeles International Airport, it is also convenient to popular attractions such as the Hermosa Beach Pier, Marina Del Rey and the Venice Boardwalk. Guests heap praise upon their tastefully furnished and spacious rooms, noting amenities such as floor-to-ceiling windows with views of the city, complimentary morning newspapers and flat panel televisions with premium cable programming. Those visiting on business appreciate having access to dozens of meeting rooms, the largest of which can accommodate a maximum of 1,500 guests. Business travelers also love the availability of state-of-the-art A/V equipment and complimentary high-speed Internet access.