La Dame Noire

Description:

• This is one for lovers of the pseudo baroque, a tongue-in-cheek locale where maroon-orange walls with artificial protruding legs and leopard skins, overhead fans, candles, and gilt prevail. The leather-clad waiters look like epicene extras in a minor Almodóvar movie, and the food is all but eclipsed by the kitsch atmosphere. But not quite. The set-price Gallic-style dinner incorporates a variety of tasty dishes, from mejillones a la crema (creamed mussels), goat's cheese salad, and Burgundian snails to pepper or tartare steak. Desserts include rich chocolate pastel and tarte tatin. Choose a reasonably priced Navarra wine to accompany the meal.

• © Frommer's 2013