Viuda de Vacas

Description:

• Cross the threshold of this beloved Madrileño taberna, tucked away in a tranquil corner of the Austrias district, and you're back in another age. The central zinc bar top, tiny coal-fueled fireplace, and creaky spiral stairway to the first floor tell you this is one central eating spot that trendy "renovators" have not managed to get their hands on. The building dates from the late 18th-century and owes its mood of uncompromising period charm to the friendly Casanova family, now in their third generation of ownership. The place is especially popular with chic 30-somethings (be prepared for a lively atmosphere as the evening progresses). Service is informal, and ultratiled walls and basic wooden tables complete the unspoiled castizo setting. Inventive dishes, accompanied by an excellent-value Jumilla house wine, are the order of the day. After a starter of calabacines gratinados (baked zucchini cooked in garlic, onions, and parsley and covered with grated cheese), berengenas a la crema (eggplant in a wine-based creamy sauce), or pimientos del padrón (hot chunky green peppers), you might follow up with a hearty rabo de toro (braised bull's tail cooked in thyme and garlic), dorada al horno (sea bream baked in oil, white wine, parsley, and bread crumbs), gallina en pepitoria (cockerel in almond-butter sauce), or codornices rellenos de foie gras y setas (quail stuffed with foie gras and mushrooms). Round off the meal with delicious homemade natillas or egg custard.

• © Frommer's 2013