Planning a Trip
For information on the state of Tennessee, contact the Tennessee Department of Tourism Development, P.O. Box 23170, Nashville, TN 37202 (tel. 800/836-6200 or 615/741-2158). Before heading to Music City, you can get more information on the city by contacting the Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau, 150 Fourth Ave. N. (tel. 800/657-6910 or 615/259-4700).
For information on Memphis, contact the Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau, 47 Union Ave., Memphis, TN 38103 (tel. 800/8-MEMPHIS or 901/543-5300). You can also get information online at www.memphistravel.com.
- The Memphis Flyer is Memphis' main arts and entertainment weekly: www.memphisflyer.com.
- The Commercial Appeal is Memphis's morning daily newspaper: www.commercialappeal.com.
Hey, Google, did you get my text message? -- It's bound to happen: The day you leave this guidebook back at the hotel for an unencumbered stroll down Beale Street, you'll forget the address of the lunch spot you had earmarked. If you're traveling with a mobile device, send a text message to tel. 466453 (GOOGLE) for a lightning-fast response. For instance, type "carnegie deli new york" and within 10 seconds you'll receive a text message with the address and phone number. This nifty trick works in a range of search categories: Look up weather ("weather philadelphia"), language translations ("translate goodbye in spanish"), currency conversions ("10 usd in pounds"), movie times ("harry potter 60605"), and more. If your search results are off, be more specific ("the abbey gay bar west hollywood"). For more tips and search options, see www.google.com/intl/en_us/mobile/sms/. Regular text message charges apply.
Pre-Departure Checklist
- Are there any special requirements for your destination? Vaccinations? Special visas, passports, or IDs? Detailed road maps? Bug repellents? Appropriate attire? If you're flying, are you carrying a current, government-issued ID, such as a driver's license or passport?
- Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit?
- Do you have your credit card PIN numbers?
- To check in at a kiosk with an e-ticket, do you have the credit card you bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card?
- If you purchased traveler's checks, have you recorded the check numbers, and stored the documentation separately from the checks?
- Did you bring ID cards that could entitle you to discounts, such as AAA and AARP cards, and student IDs?
- Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?
- Do you need to book any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations in advance?
- Did you make sure your favorite attraction is open? Many mom-and-pop restaurants and lesser-known attractions in Tennessee have irregular hours, so always call ahead to make sure the place you plan to visit will be open.
Online Traveler's Toolbox
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.
- Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
- Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com; and www.airlinequality.com)
- Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
- Maps (www.mapquest.com)
- Subway Navigator (www.subwaynavigator.com)
- Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
- Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice)
- Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc)
- Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com)
- Weather (www.intellicast.com and www.weather.com)
Getting There
By Plane
Memphis is served by the following airlines: American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300); Delta (tel. 800/221-1212); KLM (tel. 800/374-7747); Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525); Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792); United Airlines (tel. 800/241-6522); and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322).
Northwest has a hub in Memphis and is the city's largest carrier. It's also your best bet for package deals. For details, visit Northwest Airlines online at www.nwavacations.com, or call tel. 800/225-2525.
Immigration & Customs -- Foreign visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of 9/11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.
People traveling by air from Canada, Bermuda, and certain Caribbean countries can sometimes clear Customs and Immigration at the point of departure, which is much faster.
Getting into Memphis from the Airport -- The Memphis International Airport (tel. 901/922-8000) is located approximately 11 miles south of downtown Memphis off I-240. From the airport to East Memphis, it's about 9 miles. The route into either downtown or East Memphis is on I-240 all the way. Generally, allow about 20 minutes for the trip between the airport and downtown, and 15 minutes between the airport and East Memphis -- up to an hour more during rush hour.
Although there is no direct bus service from the airport to downtown Memphis, it is possible (though impractical), with a change of bus en route, to get downtown on Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) buses (tel. 901/274-6282). These buses, however, do not run very often and are not very convenient for visitors. The buses run every 1 to 2 hours until about 5:30pm Monday through Saturday, and until 5:15pm on Sunday, and the fare is $1.25. From the lower level at the airport, take no. 32, the East Parkway/Hollywood bus, and transfer to no. 10, the Lamar bus (which runs about every hour on weekdays, fewer times on Sat), or the no. 56, the Union/Kimball bus (running about every half-hour on weekdays), which will take you downtown. If you want to take the bus, the best bet is to call MATA or ask a bus driver for the latest schedule information.
A taxi from the airport to downtown Memphis will cost about $25; to East Memphis it will cost about $20. There are usually plenty of taxis around, but if you can't find one, call Yellow/Checker Cab (tel. 901/577-7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel. 901/324-4202). The first mile is $3.20; after that, it's $1.50 per mile. Each additional passenger is 50¢ extra.
By Car
Memphis lies at the southwestern tip of Tennessee, bordering Mississippi and Arkansas. Interstate 40 connects Memphis with Nashville to the east and Little Rock, Ark., to the west. Interstate 55 connects Memphis with Mississippi to the south and St. Louis, Mo., to the north. Both interstates intersect with I-240, which loops around the city's north, east and southern suburbs. The western edge of downtown Memphis is the Mississippi River.
For Memphis, here are some driving distances from other cities: Atlanta, 390 miles; Chicago, 534 miles; Little Rock 135 miles; New Orleans, 395 miles; St. Louis, 284 miles.
If you are a member of the American Automobile Association (AAA) and your car breaks down, call tel. 800/222-4357 for 24-hour emergency road service. The local AAA office in Nashville is at 2501 21st Ave. S., Suite 1 (tel. 615/297-7700), and is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm.
By Bus
Greyhound Lines (tel. 800/231-2222) offers service to Nashville from around the country. These buses operate along interstate corridors or local routes. The fare between New York and Nashville is about $117 one-way and $206 round-trip; the fare between Chicago and Nashville is about $77 one-way and $152 round-trip. The Greyhound bus station is on the south side of downtown Nashville at 200 Eighth Ave. S.
Greyhound service between New York and Memphis costs about $63 one-way and $136 round-trip; the fare between Chicago and Memphis is $82 one-way and $154 round-trip. The Greyhound bus station is in downtown Memphis, at 203 Union Ave.
From Atlanta, Georgia, round-trip fares are $139 to Memphis and $99 to Nashville.
By Train
Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245) serves Memphis (but not Nashville) with a route that goes from Chicago through Memphis to New Orleans on the City of New Orleans. If you arrive in Memphis on an Amtrak train, you'll find yourself at Central Station, 545 S. Main St. (tel. 901/526-0052), near Calhoun Street. This historic railway station has been completely renovated into a combination transportation center with public bus and Main Street Trolley connections and retail complex. However, the neighborhood around the station remains quite run-down. The area is not safe on foot, especially after dark. If arriving by train, you should take a cab or the Main Street Trolley to your hotel.
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
By Bus -- The Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA; tel. 901/274-MATA; www.matatransit.com) operates citywide bus service, but I do not recommend it for tourists. Compared to other major cities, public transportation here is poor and does not offer convenient connections between most hotels and tourist sites. Bus stops are indicated by green-and-white signs. For schedule information, ask a bus driver or call the MATA number above. The standard fare is $1.50 and exact change is required. Transfers from bus to bus cost 10¢, but there's no transfer fee to the trolley. MATA offers a 50% discount for travelers with disabilities and senior citizens with ID cards. (Note: To qualify for the discounted fare, however, you need to show a Medicare card or obtain a MATA ID card by bringing two forms of identification to the MATA Customer Service Center at 444 N. Main St., open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm.)
By Streetcar -- The Main Street Trolley (tel. 901/577-2640) operates renovated 1920s trolley cars (and modern reproductions) on a circular route that includes Main Street from the Pyramid to the National Civil Rights Museum and Central Station and then follows Riverside Drive, passing the Tennessee State Visitors Center. It's a unique way to get around the downtown area. The fare is $1 each way, with a special lunch-hour rate of 50¢ between 11am and 1:30pm. An all-day pass is $3.50; exact change is required, and passengers may board at any of the 20 stations along Main Street. Trolleys are wheelchair-accessible.
By Car
Memphis is a big sprawling city, and the best -- and worst -- way to get around is by car. A car is nearly indispensable for traveling between downtown and East Memphis, yet traffic congestion can make this trip take far longer than you'd expect (45 min. isn't unusual). East-west avenues and almost any road in East Memphis at rush hour are the most congested. Parking downtown is not usually a problem, but stay alert for tow-away zones and watch the time on your meter. Out in East Memphis, there is usually no parking problem. When driving between downtown and East Memphis, you'll usually do better to take the interstate.
Car Rentals -- All the major car-rental companies and several independent companies have offices in Memphis. Some are located near the airport only, and some have offices both near the airport and in other areas of Memphis. Be sure to leave yourself plenty of time for returning your car when you head to the airport to catch your return flight. None of the companies has an office in the airport itself, so you'll have to take a shuttle van from the car drop-off point to the airport terminal.
Most major car-rental companies in Memphis are clustered around the airport area and include Alamo/National Rent-A-Car, 2680 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/462-5266 or 901/398-8888); Avis, 2520 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/577-1521 or 901/345-6129); Budget Rent-A-Car, 2650 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/527-0700 or 901/398-8888); Dollar Rent-A-Car, 2600 Rental Road (tel. 866/434-2226 or 901/346-3290); Enterprise Rent-a-Car, 2909 Airways Blvd. (tel. 866/799-7965 or 901/396-3736); Hertz, 2560 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/654-3131 or 901/345-5680); and Thrifty Car Rental, 2680 Rental Rd. (tel. 877/283-0898 or 901/345-0170).
Parking -- Parking in downtown Memphis is a lot more expensive than it used to be. There are plenty of parking lots behind the Beale Street clubs; these charge big bucks. Metered parking on downtown streets is becoming increasingly scarce; if you're lucky enough to snag a spot close to your destination, be sure to check the time limit on the meter. Downtown parking is also available in municipal and private lots and parking garages. Again, most require a stiff fee. The good news is, many of the automated parking kiosks now accept credit and debit cards for payment, eliminating the need to carry a lot of change.
In midtown, where parking is rarely a problem, there is a free lot in Overton Square between Madison Avenue and Monroe Avenue.
Driving Rules -- A right turn at a red light is permitted after coming to a full stop, unless posted otherwise, but drivers must first yield to vehicles that have a green light or pedestrians in the walkway. Children under 4 years of age must be in a child's car seat or other approved child restraint when in the car.
Tennessee has a very strict DUI (driving under the influence of alcohol) law, and anyone caught driving under the influence with a child under 12 years of age in the car may be charged with a felony.
By Taxi
For quick cab service, call Checker/Yellow Cab (tel. 901/577-7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel. 901/324-4202), or have your hotel or motel call one for you. The first mile is $3; after that, it's $1.80 per mile. Each additional passenger is $1 extra.
On Foot
Downtown Memphis is walkable, though the only areas that attract many visitors are the Beale Street area and Main Street from the National Civil Rights Museum north to the Pyramid. The rest of the city is not walkable.
Planning a Trip
For information on the state of Tennessee, contact the Tennessee Department of Tourism Development, P.O. Box 23170, Nashville, TN 37202 (tel. 800/836-6200 or 615/741-2158). Before heading to Music City, you can get more information on the city by contacting the Nashville Convention & Visitors Bureau, 150 Fourth Ave. N. (tel. 800/657-6910 or 615/259-4700).
For information on Memphis, contact the Memphis Convention & Visitors Bureau, 47 Union Ave., Memphis, TN 38103 (tel. 800/8-MEMPHIS or 901/543-5300). You can also get information online at www.memphistravel.com.
- The Memphis Flyer is Memphis' main arts and entertainment weekly: www.memphisflyer.com.
- The Commercial Appeal is Memphis's morning daily newspaper: www.commercialappeal.com.
Hey, Google, did you get my text message? -- It's bound to happen: The day you leave this guidebook back at the hotel for an unencumbered stroll down Beale Street, you'll forget the address of the lunch spot you had earmarked. If you're traveling with a mobile device, send a text message to tel. 466453 (GOOGLE) for a lightning-fast response. For instance, type "carnegie deli new york" and within 10 seconds you'll receive a text message with the address and phone number. This nifty trick works in a range of search categories: Look up weather ("weather philadelphia"), language translations ("translate goodbye in spanish"), currency conversions ("10 usd in pounds"), movie times ("harry potter 60605"), and more. If your search results are off, be more specific ("the abbey gay bar west hollywood"). For more tips and search options, see www.google.com/intl/en_us/mobile/sms/. Regular text message charges apply.
Pre-Departure Checklist
- Are there any special requirements for your destination? Vaccinations? Special visas, passports, or IDs? Detailed road maps? Bug repellents? Appropriate attire? If you're flying, are you carrying a current, government-issued ID, such as a driver's license or passport?
- Did you find out your daily ATM withdrawal limit?
- Do you have your credit card PIN numbers?
- To check in at a kiosk with an e-ticket, do you have the credit card you bought your ticket with or a frequent-flier card?
- If you purchased traveler's checks, have you recorded the check numbers, and stored the documentation separately from the checks?
- Did you bring ID cards that could entitle you to discounts, such as AAA and AARP cards, and student IDs?
- Did you leave a copy of your itinerary with someone at home?
- Do you need to book any theater, restaurant, or travel reservations in advance?
- Did you make sure your favorite attraction is open? Many mom-and-pop restaurants and lesser-known attractions in Tennessee have irregular hours, so always call ahead to make sure the place you plan to visit will be open.
Online Traveler's Toolbox
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.
- Airplane Food (www.airlinemeals.net)
- Airplane Seating (www.seatguru.com; and www.airlinequality.com)
- Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com)
- Maps (www.mapquest.com)
- Subway Navigator (www.subwaynavigator.com)
- Time and Date (www.timeanddate.com)
- Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.dfat.gov.au/consular/advice)
- Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc)
- Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com)
- Weather (www.intellicast.com and www.weather.com)
Getting There
By Plane
Memphis is served by the following airlines: American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300); Delta (tel. 800/221-1212); KLM (tel. 800/374-7747); Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525); Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792); United Airlines (tel. 800/241-6522); and US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322).
Northwest has a hub in Memphis and is the city's largest carrier. It's also your best bet for package deals. For details, visit Northwest Airlines online at www.nwavacations.com, or call tel. 800/225-2525.
Immigration & Customs -- Foreign visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of 9/11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.
People traveling by air from Canada, Bermuda, and certain Caribbean countries can sometimes clear Customs and Immigration at the point of departure, which is much faster.
Getting into Memphis from the Airport -- The Memphis International Airport (tel. 901/922-8000) is located approximately 11 miles south of downtown Memphis off I-240. From the airport to East Memphis, it's about 9 miles. The route into either downtown or East Memphis is on I-240 all the way. Generally, allow about 20 minutes for the trip between the airport and downtown, and 15 minutes between the airport and East Memphis -- up to an hour more during rush hour.
Although there is no direct bus service from the airport to downtown Memphis, it is possible (though impractical), with a change of bus en route, to get downtown on Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA) buses (tel. 901/274-6282). These buses, however, do not run very often and are not very convenient for visitors. The buses run every 1 to 2 hours until about 5:30pm Monday through Saturday, and until 5:15pm on Sunday, and the fare is $1.25. From the lower level at the airport, take no. 32, the East Parkway/Hollywood bus, and transfer to no. 10, the Lamar bus (which runs about every hour on weekdays, fewer times on Sat), or the no. 56, the Union/Kimball bus (running about every half-hour on weekdays), which will take you downtown. If you want to take the bus, the best bet is to call MATA or ask a bus driver for the latest schedule information.
A taxi from the airport to downtown Memphis will cost about $25; to East Memphis it will cost about $20. There are usually plenty of taxis around, but if you can't find one, call Yellow/Checker Cab (tel. 901/577-7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel. 901/324-4202). The first mile is $3.20; after that, it's $1.50 per mile. Each additional passenger is 50¢ extra.
By Car
Memphis lies at the southwestern tip of Tennessee, bordering Mississippi and Arkansas. Interstate 40 connects Memphis with Nashville to the east and Little Rock, Ark., to the west. Interstate 55 connects Memphis with Mississippi to the south and St. Louis, Mo., to the north. Both interstates intersect with I-240, which loops around the city's north, east and southern suburbs. The western edge of downtown Memphis is the Mississippi River.
For Memphis, here are some driving distances from other cities: Atlanta, 390 miles; Chicago, 534 miles; Little Rock 135 miles; New Orleans, 395 miles; St. Louis, 284 miles.
If you are a member of the American Automobile Association (AAA) and your car breaks down, call tel. 800/222-4357 for 24-hour emergency road service. The local AAA office in Nashville is at 2501 21st Ave. S., Suite 1 (tel. 615/297-7700), and is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm.
By Bus
Greyhound Lines (tel. 800/231-2222) offers service to Nashville from around the country. These buses operate along interstate corridors or local routes. The fare between New York and Nashville is about $117 one-way and $206 round-trip; the fare between Chicago and Nashville is about $77 one-way and $152 round-trip. The Greyhound bus station is on the south side of downtown Nashville at 200 Eighth Ave. S.
Greyhound service between New York and Memphis costs about $63 one-way and $136 round-trip; the fare between Chicago and Memphis is $82 one-way and $154 round-trip. The Greyhound bus station is in downtown Memphis, at 203 Union Ave.
From Atlanta, Georgia, round-trip fares are $139 to Memphis and $99 to Nashville.
By Train
Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245) serves Memphis (but not Nashville) with a route that goes from Chicago through Memphis to New Orleans on the City of New Orleans. If you arrive in Memphis on an Amtrak train, you'll find yourself at Central Station, 545 S. Main St. (tel. 901/526-0052), near Calhoun Street. This historic railway station has been completely renovated into a combination transportation center with public bus and Main Street Trolley connections and retail complex. However, the neighborhood around the station remains quite run-down. The area is not safe on foot, especially after dark. If arriving by train, you should take a cab or the Main Street Trolley to your hotel.
Getting Around
By Public Transportation
By Bus -- The Memphis Area Transit Authority (MATA; tel. 901/274-MATA; www.matatransit.com) operates citywide bus service, but I do not recommend it for tourists. Compared to other major cities, public transportation here is poor and does not offer convenient connections between most hotels and tourist sites. Bus stops are indicated by green-and-white signs. For schedule information, ask a bus driver or call the MATA number above. The standard fare is $1.50 and exact change is required. Transfers from bus to bus cost 10¢, but there's no transfer fee to the trolley. MATA offers a 50% discount for travelers with disabilities and senior citizens with ID cards. (Note: To qualify for the discounted fare, however, you need to show a Medicare card or obtain a MATA ID card by bringing two forms of identification to the MATA Customer Service Center at 444 N. Main St., open Mon-Fri 7am-7pm.)
By Streetcar -- The Main Street Trolley (tel. 901/577-2640) operates renovated 1920s trolley cars (and modern reproductions) on a circular route that includes Main Street from the Pyramid to the National Civil Rights Museum and Central Station and then follows Riverside Drive, passing the Tennessee State Visitors Center. It's a unique way to get around the downtown area. The fare is $1 each way, with a special lunch-hour rate of 50¢ between 11am and 1:30pm. An all-day pass is $3.50; exact change is required, and passengers may board at any of the 20 stations along Main Street. Trolleys are wheelchair-accessible.
By Car
Memphis is a big sprawling city, and the best -- and worst -- way to get around is by car. A car is nearly indispensable for traveling between downtown and East Memphis, yet traffic congestion can make this trip take far longer than you'd expect (45 min. isn't unusual). East-west avenues and almost any road in East Memphis at rush hour are the most congested. Parking downtown is not usually a problem, but stay alert for tow-away zones and watch the time on your meter. Out in East Memphis, there is usually no parking problem. When driving between downtown and East Memphis, you'll usually do better to take the interstate.
Car Rentals -- All the major car-rental companies and several independent companies have offices in Memphis. Some are located near the airport only, and some have offices both near the airport and in other areas of Memphis. Be sure to leave yourself plenty of time for returning your car when you head to the airport to catch your return flight. None of the companies has an office in the airport itself, so you'll have to take a shuttle van from the car drop-off point to the airport terminal.
Most major car-rental companies in Memphis are clustered around the airport area and include Alamo/National Rent-A-Car, 2680 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/462-5266 or 901/398-8888); Avis, 2520 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/577-1521 or 901/345-6129); Budget Rent-A-Car, 2650 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/527-0700 or 901/398-8888); Dollar Rent-A-Car, 2600 Rental Road (tel. 866/434-2226 or 901/346-3290); Enterprise Rent-a-Car, 2909 Airways Blvd. (tel. 866/799-7965 or 901/396-3736); Hertz, 2560 Rental Rd. (tel. 800/654-3131 or 901/345-5680); and Thrifty Car Rental, 2680 Rental Rd. (tel. 877/283-0898 or 901/345-0170).
Parking -- Parking in downtown Memphis is a lot more expensive than it used to be. There are plenty of parking lots behind the Beale Street clubs; these charge big bucks. Metered parking on downtown streets is becoming increasingly scarce; if you're lucky enough to snag a spot close to your destination, be sure to check the time limit on the meter. Downtown parking is also available in municipal and private lots and parking garages. Again, most require a stiff fee. The good news is, many of the automated parking kiosks now accept credit and debit cards for payment, eliminating the need to carry a lot of change.
In midtown, where parking is rarely a problem, there is a free lot in Overton Square between Madison Avenue and Monroe Avenue.
Driving Rules -- A right turn at a red light is permitted after coming to a full stop, unless posted otherwise, but drivers must first yield to vehicles that have a green light or pedestrians in the walkway. Children under 4 years of age must be in a child's car seat or other approved child restraint when in the car.
Tennessee has a very strict DUI (driving under the influence of alcohol) law, and anyone caught driving under the influence with a child under 12 years of age in the car may be charged with a felony.
By Taxi
For quick cab service, call Checker/Yellow Cab (tel. 901/577-7777) or City Wide Cab Company (tel. 901/324-4202), or have your hotel or motel call one for you. The first mile is $3; after that, it's $1.80 per mile. Each additional passenger is $1 extra.
On Foot
Downtown Memphis is walkable, though the only areas that attract many visitors are the Beale Street area and Main Street from the National Civil Rights Museum north to the Pyramid. The rest of the city is not walkable.
