Joe Beef

Description:

• Owner David McMillan used to ride the fast track, with interests in some of the most glamorous resto-clubs in town, packed with free-spending pretty people. He tired of that scene and opened this little beef-and-fish house far from the brightest lights in a neighborhood where the warehouses haven't all turned into high-end lofts yet. He minds the oyster bar and knows most of his customers and likes it that way. Housed in a narrow storefront that keeps diners elbow-to-elbow, the restaurant's menu and wine list are written on the big blackboard occupying one wall. Customary starters are oysters, including many rarely seen, such as Caraquets, Cortez Islands, and Marina Gems. The menu is written on the wall and might include salade Joe Beef, a tangy tangle of haricots vert, boiled potatoes, pickled beets, jicama straws, slices of duck breast, leaves of Parmesan . . . and a poached egg. Mains can include trout and suckling pig, but if you're only here once, how can it be anything but steak au poivre in a place with this name? The strip sirloin must be 14 ounces and 2 inches thick. McMillian is a wine connoisseur, as well, so seek his advice on a claret to go with the beef.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010