Nuances

Description:

• This is haute cuisine in a gambling casino, as unlikely as that seems. Ensconced atop four floors of blinking lights and the crash of cascading jackpots, this dazzling entry into Montréal's gastronomic sweepstakes got a face-lift in early 2007 that made the decor as contemporary and elegant as the food. A dramatic crystal chandelier may evoke the ghost of Liberace, but gone is the dark presidential decor and in are creamy walls, white linen, pale green leather banquettes, and Granny Smith?green candles. Every member of the staff is a sommelier and qualified to advise on appropriate wines from the extensive cellar. Recent triumphs have included loin of caribou (killed by arrow by an Inuit, we were told) with parsley gnocchi and caramelized squash, and Chilean sea bass with wine-butter emulsion. Le fromage du Sommelier is a selection of cheeses including admirable Québec options. Save room for the spiced Genoa cake, which is served with Mascarpone cream and fig chips, and an espresso, which comes with rock-candy sugar on a stick. Dress code is business attire, but women will feel equally comfortable in business dress or a little red dress. This is a room with real star power.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Very Highly Recommended 2010