My Montreal Guide, featuring bonus side trips

Our Local Expert Says:

Go to the Mount-Royal on a Sunday in the early afternoon to see what locals do on a summer afternoon. Bring a Frisbee, a hacky-sac or a friend and relax in the sun. Don’t show up too early- Montrealers take their time waking up on the weekends.

Description:

"The mountain", as Mount-Royal Park is known to locals, is the largest green space on Montreal Island. It was designed by Olmstead, who also designed Central Park in New York City. Mount-Royal Park is the playground for the city. During the week people traipse up and down the paths constantly: cutting across the mountain to work, running late to class toward McGill University and just taking the time to enjoy the moments of privacy that the mountain's hidden paths offer. Sundays during the summer the East side of the Mount-Royal (near the statue) explodes with activity and music. Crowds gather to play music, lounge in the sun and relax with friends in the sweetly hazy heat.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Underground City is a great way to meander through the city’s shopping areas when it is rainy, snowy or otherwise unpleasant outside.

Description:

The Underground city is one of Montreal's claims to fame. Its kilometers of passageways under the city allow shoppers and tourists to get to where they are going without the hassles posed by the sometimes seemingly interminable winter snows and slushy streets. One particularly interesting bit of this subterranean maze is in the Cours Mont-Royal, near Peel Street. At one point the atrium of the mall extends several stories high and the facades of the stores facing the atrium (inside the mall) are made to reflect exterior building design.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you are actually looking to buy anything in this area of town look for the shop signs that are not written in either English or in French… Those will be the places that will give you the best bargains.

Description:

Chinatown in Montréal is only a few streets long. Centred on De la Gauchetière street it runs from St. Laurent Boulevard to past St. Urbain street. It is packed with ground level and sub-basement shops - above which live many of the residents of the quarter. This historic area is demarcated by four gates guarded by stone lions. Although the area is called Chinatown it is actually home to people of many diverse Asian origins, reflected in the diversity of its many restaurants. The quality and affordability of the restaurants are Montreal's Chinatown's claim to fame.

Our Local Expert Says:

This 24 hour joint has lunch specials that make you wonder if they are making any money!

Description:

Some might find it strange to have to wait for a table at 2a. If that's you, then you shouldn't come to this Cantonese restaurant in the middle of Chinatown - especially on a Friday or Saturday night. But the late-night/early-morning crowd really appreciates being able to find reasonably-priced food in a place where the atmosphere is upbeat and the conversation stimulating, no matter what time of day or night. The service is attentive and bustling, with college-bound waiters happy to explain the dishes.

Our Local Expert Says:

Old Montreal is a beautiful place to visit, particularly in the wintertime. New Year’s Eve every year there is a celebration in Place Jacques Cartier, culminating in fireworks at midnight.

Description:

Old Montreal is the area immediately surrounding the Old Port. It was the first developed part of the city of Montreal, as reflected through its architecture and narrow cobbled streets. Many of the more historically significant buildings are in this area of town, as well as the Champ-de-Mars, an old parade ground where citizens used to be able to come to enjoy the spectacle of public hangings. It is very tourist friendly. The Place Jacques Cartier, an open square leading from the town hall (Hôtel de Ville) down to the water, is the venue for shows at all times of the year.

Our Local Expert Says:

Twenty-minute guided tours in English are offered throughout the day, beginning at 9am.

Description:

One Montreal's most famous landmark in Old Montreal, the breathtaking Basilique Notre-Dame was designed and built in 1829 by the protestant architect James O'Donnell. Legend has it that he was so taken with the beauty of this neo-Gothic Basilique that he converted to Catholicism. The interior is one of the most stunning works of any of the churches found in Quebec with exquisite details carved into rare wood. The altar has 32 panels depicting the life of Jesus and there are other statues and art work dedicated to the lives of other saints. The delicate rose-coloured stained glass windows, blue vauled ceiling and a massive church bell also add to the grandeur.

Description:

Those who care to spend serious money for a slab of charred beef should take their credit ratings here. The oldest steak-and-seafood house in town is also arguably its finest, and less afflicted with tourists than the popular Gibby's in Vieux-Montréal. It used to be dark, musty, and populated with crusty waiters, although the addition of four windows has brightened things up and the venerable retainers who bring the food have eased up on the crabbiness. Moishes now gets the trim new breed of up-and-coming executives as well as those of the older generation who didn't know about triglycerides until it was too late. The former are more likely to go for the chicken teriyaki or Arctic char, perhaps, while the latter stick with the steak. The wine list is substantial, and the restaurant offers wine tasting evenings.

Our Local Expert Says:

Make sure to walk through the Jean-Talon Market in its entirety before making your purchases if you want to get the best price on your produce. Costs vary from vendor to vendor.

Description:

If you are the type of person who likes wandering among the vegetables, and their vendors, the Market is a great place to spend a day, or plan a meal. Cheese shops, organic meats and vegetable and fruit vendors crowd into their stalls in this market that on the weekends is overflowing with not only the inhabitants of the nearby Little Italy, but people from all over the Island of Montreal. Parking is available under the market, bicycle racks are conveniently placed around most entrances, and it is less than a five minute walk from Jean-Talon metro.

Description:

This quirky natural history museum, housed in an 1882 building with a grandly proportioned and richly appointed interior, is on the McGill University campus. The main draws -- worth a half-hour visit -- are the mummies and coffin that are part of its collection of Egyptian antiquities, the second largest in Canada, and skeletons of whales and prehistoric beasts. If the unusual name seems slightly familiar, it could be because you've seen it on the wrappings of sugar cubes in many Canadian restaurants: John Redpath was a 19th-century industrialist who built Canada's first sugar refinery.

Description:

This remains one of the tastiest bargains downtown. The price of the lunch buffet has barely changed since it opened in 1985, and the five-course dinner costs C$28 (US$24/£12). The kitchen specializes in the mughlai cuisine of the subcontinent. Seasonings tend more toward the tangy than the incendiary, but say you want your food spicy and you'll get it (watch out for the innocent-looking green coriander sauce.) Dishes are perfumed with turmeric, saffron, ginger, cumin, mango powder, and garam masala (a spice combination that usually includes cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon). For a real treat, order the marinated boneless lamb chops roasted in the tandoor; they arrive at the table sizzling and nested on braised vegetables. Vegetarians have ample choices, the chickpea-based channa masala among the most complex. Main courses are huge, arriving in a boggling array of bowls, saucers, cups, and dishes, all accompanied by naan (the pillowy flat bread) and basmati rice. Evenings are quiet, and lunchtimes are busy but not hectic.

Description:

This church, designed by Quebec architect Victor Bourgeau and built between 1870 and 1894, is an exact one-third replica of St Peter's Basilica in Rome. Set among the bleak skyscrapers of downtown, it makes a particularly striking sight. The 13 floodlit statues along its top are of Montreal's own patron saints. In the Mortuary Chapel can be found the final resting places for the city's bishops and archbishops, alongside a recumbent statue of Monseigneur Ignace Bourget, the church's founder. Admission is free.

Description:

Montréal's Museum of Fine Arts is the city's most prominent museum, opened in 1912 in Canada's first building designed specifically for the visual arts. The original neoclassical pavilion is on the north side of Sherbrooke. A striking new annex was built in 1991 directly across the street and tripled exhibition space, adding sub-street-level floors and underground galleries that connect to the old building. Art on display is nearly always dramatically mounted, carefully lit, and diligently explained in both French and English.

Our recommendation is to enter the annex on the south side of rue Sherbrooke, take the elevator to the top, and work your way down. The permanent collection, which totals more than 33,000 works, is largely devoted to international contemporary art and Canadian works created after 1960, and to European painting, sculpture, and decorative art from the Middle Ages to the 19th century. On the upper floors are many of the gems of the collection: paintings by 12th- to 19th-century artists Hogarth, Tintoretto, Bruegel, El Greco, Ribera, and portraitist George Romney; and works -- representative, if not world-class -- by more recent artists including Renoir, Monet, Picasso,...

Description:

Located partially in the Latin Quarter, this is one of the largest gay neighbourhoods in North America. Although known mostly for its wild nightlife, the area bustles with dozens of cafes, bistros, boutiques, antique shops, restaurants and taverns. There are also beautifully renovated homes, lovely gardens and a proliferation of flowers. August is the time for the Divers Cité gay pride parade, which, together with the huge Black and Blue party in October, attracts nearly half a million participants.

Description:

Crescent Street is the busiest downtown drag West of St. Laurent Boulevard on any given evening. From Thursday until Saturday the streets are crowded from happy hour until the wee hours. Everyone from stumbling beer-drinking youngsters to a more refined and mature crowd can find a place to go out on Crescent Street; but unless you arrive early, you might not find a seat! The pub type joints are found South of Saint-Catherine Street (generally speaking) and the more clubby atmospheres are found between St. Catherine Street and De Maisonneuve Street.

Description:

Created under the watchful eye of F-1 race driver Jacques Villeneuve, Newtown is everything you need to spend a couple of hours relaxing and having a good time. This tri-level club offers visitors'variety-with a club, a restaurant, lounge and a nice terrace patio overlooking the area. If you are looking for a quiet meal, head down to the restaurant that serves some authentic French cuisine with great decor and a lovely ambience. At the lounge you can guzzle down some well-mixed cocktails while you listen to some soothing music and those who prefer the quite can gaze at the night sky from the terrace. Those looking for a partying scene can hit the club which is pulsating and buzzing with fantastic music and groovy lights. Hours vary at each of the sections of this multi-dimensional place.

Description:

Take a day trip to the magnificent countryside surrounding Montreal to visit the mountains, lakes and forests of the Laurentians. You'll visit quaint French villages, including free time to explore and cruise the lovely Lac des Sables in Ste Agathe des Monts.

You'll be seduced by the Laurentians' breathtaking panoramas, speckled with mountainside cottages and lakeside villages. You'll see numerous French villages on your journey, including Val-Morin, Val-David, Piedmont and Saint-Sauveur Village, a resort municipality nestled in the mountains. You'll be charmed by Saint-Sauveur's lively main street and distinctive shops, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and attractions.

Your 50-minute cruise on Lac des Sables takes you along a shoreline dotted with famous homes dating back to 1890. Enjoy splendid views of the lake's islands.

The Laurentians embrace a variety of landscapes with valleys, mountains, forests and lakes. Take the opportunity to get out into Canada's great outdoors and discover this beautiful countryside.

Note: This tour is seasonal and only operates from June through to October.

Description:

With three ships ready to handle from 20 to 1000 passengers, this company is known as one of the most reliable cruise lines operating out of the Old Port. The hour and forty-five minute sightseeing tours depart four times daily from the King Edward Pier; many other longer cruises, including dinner and sunset cruises, are also available.

Description:

The Plateau Mont Royal is a pleasing mish-mash of restaurants, shops and apartments. Considered one of the best places to live in North America, the cultural life on the Plateau is diverse and rich. It is easy to forget that the rest of the city exists when at your doorstep there is anything that you could possibly want: lively show venues, friendly green spaces, cozy restaurants and long boutique-lined boulevards. The Portuguese community is still strong in this area; reflected through the abundance of Portuguese restaurants and shops, as well as through the sounds of everyday life you hear on the side streets between the Main and St. Denis Street, South of Mount-Royal Avenue.

Description:

Whether you take the two-hour "Island Discovery Cruise" of Parc des Îles de Boucherville or the full day excursion around Île de Sorel, a cruise on the St Lawrence River is an enjoyable experience. Montreal Harbour Cruises also offers a special moonlight dinner/dance cruise for the romantically inclined. All cruises are on well-maintained, full-service White River Boats with bilingual guides on hand to point out the sights.

Description:

While this may be the in spot in the city for Hollywood luminaries passing through town, this Parc Avenue institution's real secret to success is the simply prepared fish and seafood, using only the best and freshest ingredients. The decor is traditional Greek and the ambiance loud and boisterous. It doesn't take much to get the whole room up and dancing. The wine list is extensive, with prices in the mid-to-high range.

Description:

Montréal's top chefs have been recommending this modest-looking restaurant near Outremont for several years. It was feared that the resulting buzz might spoil the place, but it has only improved, unless you count the hefty increase in prices. You'll discover how remarkable traditional recipes can be in the hands of a master. Presentations are so impeccable that you hate to disturb them, and flavors are so eye-rolling that you want to scrape up every last smear of food. Even diners leery of organ meats will find the veal sweetbreads a silky revelation. The menu includes Mediterranean and Southwestern touches as well as expensive ingredients like foie gras and caviar. There's a price for that: Appetizers cost as much as C$45 (US$39/£19) and one tasting menu reaches C$200 (US$174/£86) per person, with wine. Good as it is, that's much too much, so stick to the available less costly routes. A small but judicious selection of cheeses can precede or replace the tantalizing desserts, which look as if they might take flight.

Description:

Tired of the same mundane vegetarian grub? Chuchai is for you. This purely vegetarian eatery is known for its faux meat and serves up a variety of Thai delicacies. Noodles, mock chicken, mock shrimp, mock fish and tofu entrees cover the major portion of the menu. The flavors and aromas speak of traditional Thai. Do try the mock fish with basil, coconut milk and spicy sauce. The non-vegetarians will be in for a surprise and for the veggie freaks, it will definitely be a first time experience.

Description:

No obvious sign announces the presence of this restaurant, only its name discreetly spelled out in white tiles in the sidewalk. There's no need to call attention to itself, since tout Montréal knows exactly where this most classic of Parisian-style bistros is. While there are no table d'hôte menus, the food is fairly priced for such an eternally busy place and costs the same at midnight as at noon. After a substantial starter like quiche jambon fromage you may opt for one of the lighter main courses, such as the ravioli maison, round pasta pockets filled with a flavorful mixture of beef, pork, and veal. Or simply stop by for bowl of soupe de poisson or a simple croque-monsieur. This is honest, unpretentious food, thoroughly satisfying, and unlike the flossy new breed of bistro, it's open from breakfast until 3am. Although reservations are usually necessary for tables, single diners can often find a seat at the zinc-topped bar, where meals are also served.

Description:

This museum is built on the site of the very first colony established in 1642 where the St-Pierre River merged with the St. Lawrence. In 1688, the third governor of Montreal, Chevalier Louis Hector de Callière, built a home on the site. In 1861, the building eventually become the home office for Royal Insurance.

This very modern Museum of Archaeology and History displays a wide variety of artifacts from the early settlers unearthed during the excavation. The exhibits about the Amerindiains, French, Irish and Scottish are below street level that was once ancient burial grounds. Hundreds of artifacts are grouped into six main sections: the Éperon, a modern building; the archaeological crypt on the lower level that was once ancient burial grounds; the renovated Ancienne-Douane building (Montréal's first Custom House), the Youville Pumping Station, the Archaeological Field School and the Mariners House.

The curators at the museum have done an excellent job at making history come alive. Every weekday, interpreter guides lead you on tours or offer info-sessions on the Where Montréal Was Born exhibition and the current temporary exhibition. New expansion has incorporated the Youville...

Description:

Discover the fascinating city of Montreal on a walking tour through a city bursting with amazing art, intriguing history and spectacular architecture. Your walk will take you past Notre-Dame Basilica, Place Jacques-Cartier, City Hall and much more.

Your guide on the walking tour will tell you about the history and architecture of Montreal through anecdotes revealing the city's secrets! Highlights on the tour include:

• Place d'Armes to Place Jacques-Cartier
• Royal Bank
• Notre-Dame Basilica
• Cours Le Royer
• St. Jacques
• Notre-Dame and St. Paul Streets
• City Hall
• Champ de Mars
• Bonsecours Market

This tour is seasonal and operates from May through to October.

Description:

Looking for something different to do in Montreal? Why not try an old-fashioned ghost hunt through the streets of Old Montreal. After the sun has set over the city, a number of ghosts haunt the streets of Old Montreal and the wharves of the Old Port. Go in search of Montreal's dark and hidden past on a walking tour through the streets at night.

Traditional Ghost Walk (Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday)
Accompanied by a "ghostly animators", you will explore Old Montreal as you've never done before. With your guide, you'll discover places where events of great importance in Montreal's history took place and that might still be haunted by some dark characters. On the menu, there will be fires, political demonstrations, serious crimes, hangings, heroic acts and mysterious legends.

Montreal Ghost Hunt (Friday) -This tour alternates between the Montreal Historical Crime Scene Hunt and the New France Ghost Hunt

Montreal's Historical Crime Scene
Join this Ghost Hunt to Montreal's most notorious criminals. Relive some of the most famous crimes in Montreal's history. What would you say to meeting Mary Gallagher, still looking for her head; or Amedee-Charles Madry, the reputed charlatan and...

Description:

A retreat for Montreal's wealthy, Saint-Sauveur is a collection of stately old cottages, ski resorts, golf courses, hotels and fine restaurants. The ski resort called Mont Saint-Sauveur refers both to a reasonably sized hill of that name and to an amalgamation of smaller hills, some (Mont Avila) connected to the main lift system and some (Mont Habitant) not. Though not on the same scale as resorts in the Upper Laurentians or Eastern Townships, these mountains distinguish themselves with excellent snow and location; it is just an hour from Montreal.