The hip side

Our Local Expert Says:

A funky take on breakfast food takes you east of the tourist traps and right to the hearth of Madame Bolduc; be careful as you squeeze you way into this restaurant not to bump too many people.

Description:

This cozy East End neighborhood restaurant wears its Quebecois heart on its sleeve, or rather on its menu. It is a family affair here, and the kids are welcome to share in the festivities. You cannot go wrong with an all-day breakfast menu and genuine Quebec culinary specialties such as Meatball Stew and Shepherd's Pie. Throw in an inexpensive pitcher of locally brewed beer and the experience is complete. It's a little-known Montreal institution.

Description:

The Plateau Mont Royal is a pleasing mish-mash of restaurants, shops and apartments. Considered one of the best places to live in North America, the cultural life on the Plateau is diverse and rich. It is easy to forget that the rest of the city exists when at your doorstep there is anything that you could possibly want: lively show venues, friendly green spaces, cozy restaurants and long boutique-lined boulevards. The Portuguese community is still strong in this area; reflected through the abundance of Portuguese restaurants and shops, as well as through the sounds of everyday life you hear on the side streets between the Main and St. Denis Street, South of Mount-Royal Avenue.

Description:

Located in the Plateau Mont-Royal, this gallery specializes in reproductions of the world's greatest paintings, all faithfully replicated in oil on canvas and within original-looking frames. You can either browse the gallery to purchase the displayed duplications or you can order your own custom-made replica to the size you want. The techniques and secrets of the original masters are scrupulously respected to reproduce copies that greatly resemble the originals in both the details and in the quality of execution.

Our Local Expert Says:

Although the servers live up to their reputation of being a little curt you won't find better smoked meat in Montreal.

Description:

One of Montreal's great culinary institutions, this cramped, somewhat dingy deli, Schwartz's, makes the smoked meat (Montreal's version of pastrami) to which all others are compared. The line can be horrendous on weekends, the service is impersonal at best, and you are likely to be shoehorned into a table with a gaggle of total strangers. That said, the classic meal of a smoked meat sandwich, fries, pickle and a Cott's Cerise Noire cola is a genuinely transcendent experience. If the line seems unreasonable, takeout is a perfect alternative. Only cash is accepted.

Description:

The permanent exhibit of the enormously successful Just For Laughs Festival, this museum is a fascinating journey through the history of comedy. Kids will especially enjoy the Les Amuseurs Exhibit, a guided tour through the many different forms comedy has taken through the last 500 years. The museum will also organize a birthday party to remember!

Description:

Saint-Laurent Boulevard is the home of both the glitzy and the gritty sides of nightlife in Montreal. The street is known for its bars and clubs ranging from dive bars (like Miami) to the more upscale venues clustered around Sherbrooke Street (like Buonanotte or Sofia's) which often serve as restaurants earlier in the evening and turn into clubs as the night wears on. Saint-Laurent Boulevard stretches from the Old Port, and continues North through many different neighborhoods including Chinatown, the East-end of downtown, the plateau, the Mile-End and Little Italy. It divides the city in two, literally, with the East - West addresses starting at zero at Saint-Laurent and increasing as you move away from the street. Remember to always check whether an address is East (Est) or West (Ouest) of Saint-Laurent, or you might find yourself on the wrong end of town!

Our Local Expert Says:

In the trendy Plateau area of Montreal this restaurant will satisfy your craving for a hearty meal.

Description:

Very few restaurants boast the kind of successful split personality found at this Plateau Portuguese establishment. One side is a softly lit dining room for romantics; the other a loud, rambunctious tavern where shouting and cheering is the order of the day. The food, however, is uniformly good, from the restaurant's famous grilled chicken to Carne Alentejana, a typical Portuguese dish of pork and clams. Service is either relaxed or frenzied, depending on your choice of room.

Our Local Expert Says:

Expects laid back locals and an excellent venue for people watching as well as a decent DJ.

Description:

A cheerfully hip energy pervades this extremely popular Plateau Mont-Royal watering hole. The décor is thoroughly unique; it's sort of a "Prague café" theme accentuated by ostrich heads poking out of the walls, high ceilings and excellent music (live during the days, DJs every night). Youngish journalists and other left-of-center professionals enjoy very reasonably priced micro-brews (including the full line of Cheval Blanc beers), and it's usually packed. The name is pronounced "Billy Coon."

Description:

Consistently voted Montreal's best brunch spot, this legendary diner is a must-visit, provided that you can deal with enormous weekend lines. Beauty's is neither hip nor health-conscious, but for wonderfully prepared breakfast standards it has few equals. Piles of fresh fruit accompany every meal, though regulars have been known to leave it on the plate. On Sundays, aim to arrive before 10a or expect to wait upwards of an hour in line.

Description:

Montreal has the third largest holocaust survivor population in the world and this museum displays a collection of over 400 artifacts and video testimonies. It encourages visitors to fight intolerance in all its forms and offers the visitor an unforgettable journey about tragedy and triumph. Allow a couple of hours for the museum visit.

Our Local Expert Says:

Go to the Mount-Royal on a Sunday in the early afternoon to see what locals do on a summer afternoon. Bring a Frisbee, a hacky-sac or a friend and relax in the sun. Don’t show up too early- Montrealers take their time waking up on the weekends.

Description:

"The mountain", as Mount-Royal Park is known to locals, is the largest green space on Montreal Island. It was designed by Olmstead, who also designed Central Park in New York City. Mount-Royal Park is the playground for the city. During the week people traipse up and down the paths constantly: cutting across the mountain to work, running late to class toward McGill University and just taking the time to enjoy the moments of privacy that the mountain's hidden paths offer. Sundays during the summer the East side of the Mount-Royal (near the statue) explodes with activity and music. Crowds gather to play music, lounge in the sun and relax with friends in the sweetly hazy heat.

Description:

Amid a ramshackle décor of mismatched furnishings and 25 years of knick-knacks, this western-Plateau institution serves gargantuan gourmet sandwiches to a crowd of students, bohemian types and a few tourists. The backyard terrace is perhaps its most delightful feature. Vegetarian sandwiches dominate (the Killer Tomato, with fresh and sundried tomatoes, garlic, cream and cottage cheese), but carnivores can try to wrap their mouths around the towering St-Urbain Corner (chicken, cream and cottage cheese, honey, nuts and olives). No alcohol is served; try the fruit drinks and herbal teas. Cash only.

Description:

This non-profit artist-run gallery and centre has been around since 1982; it includes exhibitions, video screenings and performance art, along with an artist residence. Special programs include lectures and concerts. The centre is open to all the arts, be they experimental or traditional, and presents the full spectrum of artistic ideas and forms. Oboro consistently encourages artists from Montreal's various communities and cultures. Recent exhibits have included Éveline Le Calvez's multimedia installation Autel and the primitive audiovisuals of Neam Cathod's Cyber_Mondrian. Admission is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

McKibbin's Irish pub is a mainstay of the Concordia student (and professor) lifestyle. Don't wimp out and order the salad, it has great bison burgers!

Description:

You know you have something going when you are voted in as Montreal's top spot to eat for cheap. Crowds come for live entertainment, 18 imported beers on tap, Irish sports on TV and a huge variety of single malt scotches. There is a Monday poker night with a prize auction, a terrace, cigar room, and a lounge with fireplace. Wednesdays, the ladies get to drink for free whereupon things become slightly less civilized. Sunday offers traditional Irish music.

Description:

The Montreal Canadiens are an institution in this town. Far from being just a sporting event, seeing a game in person can be described by the most passionate fans as an almost religious experience. Always energy-filled it is worth going to see the Canadiens play even if you sit in the back rows drinking beer with the cantankerous old men who curse at the team in words you won't ever hear outside of the province of Québec. Call it a learning experience.

Our Local Expert Says:

Sit on the terrace in front of this place if you want to make new friends; because by 11 pm everyone has had enough to drink they don't remember if they have met you before- or don't care. Never too raucous- it can get a little rowdy- this place never disappoints.

Description:

During the day this venerable watering hole is good for its sunny terrace, just steps from the action on St-Laurent. The evening hours bring out scores of young people in search of cheap drinks, and it can get a little rowdy by 3a. Though it advertises itself as "Un bar inédit" (original or novel), the interior is eminently forgettable.

Description:

The tables on the terrace that wraps around this corner building are filled whenever there's even a slim possibility that a heavy sweater and a bowl of café au lait will fend off frostbite. In summer, the loyalists get to stay out until way past midnight. Brunch is popular even if the food is unexceptional, but do consider this place any time a snack or a meal is in order. Portions are ample and inexpensive. An easygoing atmosphere prevails; it's popular with musicians, actors, and artists, so contrive to look mysterious or celebrated.

Our Local Expert Says:

Remember when you go out on St Denis Street in Montreal: a little bit of scruff is in style.

Description:

St Denis Street is a more upscale shopping and dining street. From Sherbrooke Street to Mount Royal Avenue boutiques, coffee shops and restaurants are packed together; and pedestrians clutter the sidewalks. The keyword here is location. People walk along St Denis Street to see and be seen. There is something for everyone along this street. The overall ambience is of affluent consumerism during the day; however, this merges seamlessly into the traditionally more grungy scene of the Montreal nightlife as the sun sets.

Description:

The diverse hippy and artsy crowd that used to make up the population of the Mile-End has been yuppified over the past few years. Now this once down at the heels area has had its façade brightened with the injection of the young, working twenty-somethings that have moved in droves into the area, following the software development super-firm Ubisoft. The main street, St.Viateur, is lined with small shops and restaurants; and the best bagel shop in town is located a block from the corner of Park Avenue.

Our Local Expert Says:

Empanadas, empanadas, empanadas!

Description:

Like its Plateau neighborhood, La Chilenita is totally unpretentious: a cozy haven for those who are mad for empanadas, Chile's national snack. Here you get 13 varieties, including one with seafood. Chilean sandwiches include the Barros Luco featuring grilled steak and cheese. If you're in a hurry, there's take-out as well. Cash (spare change, really) only.

Description:

On one end of Bernard Avenue, in Outremont, stylish restaurants and shopping dominate the street. Further East, between Park Avenue and Saint-Laurent Boulevard, the funky and fun Mile-End attitude dictates the style of the area. Café Romolo, on the corner of Park Avenue, is a great place to go watch a Montreal Canadien's game during the hockey season, and Whisky Café (famous for their ladies toilet), on the corner of Saint-Laurent Boulevard provides a more sedate atmosphere.

Our Local Expert Says:

A little dingy on the outside, but there is nothing better than the taste of the food on the inside. Up in the trendy Mile-End neighborhood this restaurant also caters to groups.

Description:

This unassuming Mile End restaurant surprises with affordable, authentic Peruvian cooking. In keeping with the country's extended coastline, the menu emphasizes seafood with dishes such as shrimp bisque, smoked salmon and shark. Occasional live music and an overall sense of good cheer make this one of the area's true hidden gems. Cash and debit cards only.

Description:

Those who enjoy scotch, particularly single-malts like Laphraoig and Glenfiddich, will find over 150 different labels to sample here. (Because the Québec government applies stiff taxes for the privilege, many of the patrons -- suits to grad students -- seem to stick to beer.) The decor is sophisticated, with exposed beams and vents, handmade tiled tables, and large wood-enclosed columns. Another decorative triumph: The men's urinal has a waterfall acting as the pissoir. Attached is a separate cigar lounge, with leather armchairs and Cubans on sale until 3am.

Our Local Expert Says:

Get there early- this place serves breakfast and lunch to close by early afternoon. Ask for one of the owner's business cards- if you understand French you'll get a kick out of it.

Description:

This is one of a rare breed of establishments where one can find true Canadian food, or more accurately Quebec food. Haute cuisine it isn't, but well prepared it certainly is. The extremely reasonable menu features Tourtière (a traditional Quebecois meat pie), Fèves-au-Lard (baked beans), pea soup and other wholesome comfort foods. For a fast, cheap bite in friendly but by no means opulent surroundings, this is a great choice. Credit cards will be laughed out the door, towards the cash machine.

Description:

Located behind the City Hall, this huge public space is a good place to relax, get a great view of downtown, and check out the remains of the old fortifications that surrounded the new city. Though the fortifications themselves were demolished in the 1820s as the city outgrew them, you can still see the pieces in the shape of two lines of stone. It's a fine vantage point from which to view the City Hall.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you are actually looking to buy anything in this area of town look for the shop signs that are not written in either English or in French… Those will be the places that will give you the best bargains.

Description:

Chinatown in Montréal is only a few streets long. Centred on De la Gauchetière street it runs from St. Laurent Boulevard to past St. Urbain street. It is packed with ground level and sub-basement shops - above which live many of the residents of the quarter. This historic area is demarcated by four gates guarded by stone lions. Although the area is called Chinatown it is actually home to people of many diverse Asian origins, reflected in the diversity of its many restaurants. The quality and affordability of the restaurants are Montreal's Chinatown's claim to fame.

Our Local Expert Says:

This 24 hour joint has lunch specials that make you wonder if they are making any money!

Description:

Some might find it strange to have to wait for a table at 2a. If that's you, then you shouldn't come to this Cantonese restaurant in the middle of Chinatown - especially on a Friday or Saturday night. But the late-night/early-morning crowd really appreciates being able to find reasonably-priced food in a place where the atmosphere is upbeat and the conversation stimulating, no matter what time of day or night. The service is attentive and bustling, with college-bound waiters happy to explain the dishes.

Our Local Expert Says:

The Underground City is a great way to meander through the city’s shopping areas when it is rainy, snowy or otherwise unpleasant outside.

Description:

The Underground city is one of Montreal's claims to fame. Its kilometers of passageways under the city allow shoppers and tourists to get to where they are going without the hassles posed by the sometimes seemingly interminable winter snows and slushy streets. One particularly interesting bit of this subterranean maze is in the Cours Mont-Royal, near Peel Street. At one point the atrium of the mall extends several stories high and the facades of the stores facing the atrium (inside the mall) are made to reflect exterior building design.

Description:

Voted the best fries in the city on numerous occasions, this Belgian snack bar and bistro offers top-notch fried goodies at exceptional prices. You can eat in or get take-out if you are in a hurry. From burgers and fries to deep-fried mussels washed down with a nice cold beer, it doesn't get much better than this. The bright and breezy features Tintin cartoons. This location also sports a terrace for that summer afternoon or evening snack. Cash only.

Description:

In summer, the portion of this southern Plateau between St-Laurent street and St-Louis Square is bustling with tourists. They come for the sidewalk cafes, street performers and all-around good cheer. Most restaurants on the street are bring-your-own-wine, relatively inexpensive, spacious enough to accommodate large groups and serve passable if not exceptional food. Culinary standouts include Mazurka, while the Caverne Grecque serves mountains of Greek food every night. Barflies can check out Café Campus and Vol de Nuit, which rock late into the night.

Our Local Expert Says:

You can rent your skates at the rink, but remember to check the open hours of the Parc first, and make sure that the water has completely frozen over… Sometimes it takes a little longer than we may imagine.

Description:

The Parc Lafontaine is open year in and year out. In the summer time ducks and geese wait by the shores of the pond for passers-by to feed them, and in the winter time that same expanse of water is frozen over and turns into one of the city's largest skating rinks. Christmas lights are strung through the trees and softly-piped music keeps the beat as the skaters make their way around the rink. Yes, this is a great place for a date.

Description:

The setting is tiny and the décor is simple, but the ambience is as hot as it comes in this Brazilian-Mexican gem tucked beneath the shadow of Mount Royal. Service is personalized, thanks to the effervescent presence of the owner. Dishes include the usual fajitas and quesadillas, but these are complemented by Brazilian specialties like crevettes à baiana (shrimp cooked in coconut milk and spicy tomato sauce). It's usually packed, so be sure to reserve.

Our Local Expert Says:

Nestled away in a quiet corner of the Plateau, this gem of a pub serves specialty hot ciders and grog. Remember that you will be required to buy a little something to eat with your drinks.

Description:

This quiet, smoky pub is a neighborhood institution, attracting locals from all walks of life with its friendly and familiar staff, cool music and excellent beer from St-Ambroise and other local microbreweries. Their liquor license, which requires the purchase of finger food to accompany the drinks, is all part of the charm. On tap they feature an excellent local cider that is quite difficult to find elsewhere. Come back a few times and they might have your drink waiting for you.

Description:

There are many cool places to discover nearby. The location is fantastic if you like to shop. The hostel offers 30 beds, breakfast and linen included in the prices, and there is a 24- hour reception.

Our Local Expert Says:

Parc avenue is a culturally diverse and bustling street that runs by the famous Mount Royal park.

Description:

Beginning at Sherbrooke Street, Parc Avenue runs north through a diverse series of neighbourhoods and landscapes. North of des Pins the street widens and runs directly under Mount Royal and Jeanne-Mance Park's bongo players and tobogganing. Further north, Parc is the main drag of the city's Greek area; Milos is just one of many excellent Greek restaurants. The Fairmount and St-Viateur bagel shops, both just east of Parc, are remnants of the once huge Jewish community.

Our Local Expert Says:

Make sure to walk through the Jean-Talon Market in its entirety before making your purchases if you want to get the best price on your produce. Costs vary from vendor to vendor.

Description:

If you are the type of person who likes wandering among the vegetables, and their vendors, the Market is a great place to spend a day, or plan a meal. Cheese shops, organic meats and vegetable and fruit vendors crowd into their stalls in this market that on the weekends is overflowing with not only the inhabitants of the nearby Little Italy, but people from all over the Island of Montreal. Parking is available under the market, bicycle racks are conveniently placed around most entrances, and it is less than a five minute walk from Jean-Talon metro.

Description:

While in Montreal, escape the crowds on a three-hour bike adventure around the city lead by a professional guide. Ride through the Latin Quarter, La Fontaine Park and Old Montreal. After the tour, you can keep your bicycle to use for the rest of the day to continue exploring at your leisure.

Led by a professional tour guide, you will enjoy a panorama of the city starting covering a route of approximately 15 kilometers. Begin at the Old Port and cycle to the Latin Quarter. Continue to La Fontaine Park, with an unusual detour into one of the alleys of The Plateau. Continue to Mount-Royal Park, into the Victorian ambiance of the Golden Square Mile, cycle through the business district, and conclude your cycling tour in Old Montreal.

This Montreal Half-Day Bike Tour runs at a leisurely pace, suitable for all levels of experience with bike riding.

Description:

Some of the pleasures of visiting a place like the city of Montreal lie off the beaten track, so far off the track in fact that they are entirely outside of the city. Sugaring Off only happens for a period of about a month in the spring time, when the temperature still falls below freezing at night and climbs above zero during the day allowing the maple sap to flow. This traditional Eastern Canadian event is amazingly fun, either with friends or with your family. At some of the more traditional places they will take you out to the sugar shack where they make the maple syrup.

Description:

Established in the heart of the Plateau since 1980, Graff has concentrated on the promotion of contemporary art. With this in mind, the gallery not only has daily showings but also holds several dozen special event exhibitions annually. Its works have been displayed at thematic exhibitions around the world, and more than 1,000 individual pieces are available. The art includes new and innovative paintings, sculptures, etchings, photographs and installations, all produced by the gallery's stable of artists. Admission is free.

Description:

The boutique of the contemporary art museum sells much of what might be expected, including poster-size reproductions of paintings and prints, postcards, and art books. Added to the mix are tasteful design pieces and unusual gifts as well as souvenirs that eschew the lowest-common-denominator standards of too many Vieux-Montréal shops. The museum's bookstore, Oliveri, has a wide selection, in both French and English, of monographs on Canadian and international artists since the 1950s.

Description:

This legendary souvlaki joint is consistently voted the best in the city. The greasy-spoon atmosphere of the early days is gone, however, replaced by a more modern look and feel-and prices, of course. The menu is extensive, with lots of appetizers and even dishes such as steak and hamburger. But what patrons really come for-at any time of the day or night-is the souvlaki on pita, an incredibly tasty, sloppy mess.

Description:

You know you have something going when you are voted in as Montreal's top spot to eat for under CAD10. Crowds come for live entertainment, 18 imported beers on tap, Irish sports on TV and a huge variety of single malt scotches. "Hooley Hour" runs from 5p-8p, and there is a Monday poker night with a prize auction, a terrace, cigar room, and a lounge with fireplace. Wednesdays, the ladies get to drink for free from 9pm-midnight, whereupon things become slightly less civilized. Sunday offers traditional Irish music.

Our Local Expert Says:

Delicious chicken sandwiches to fill the belly and satisfy the palate at a more than reasonable price!

Description:

Montreal's strong Portuguese community has exerted its influence over traditional Quebecois barbecued chicken, and the result is this incredibly reasonable take-out or stand-up establishment. The chicken, sold either whole or in quarters, is covered in sauce and spice after cooking. Roast pork is another specialty, and a great bargain for a huge portion with the trimmings. Side dishes include salads and roasted potatoes. Don't expect an elegant feast, but don't expect to pay much either. Bring cash.

Description:

Serving up steaming hot cups of exotic Joe from around the world, this small chain of home-grown coffee shops is brightly lit, tastefully appointed and staffed by a friendly bunch of people who know their coffee beans. What really sets these stores apart, however, is that they roast their own. The delicious aroma is part of the ambience that keeps clientele coming back and encourages scholarly conversation.

Description:

The nightclub Les Foufounes Electric, is a one-of-a-kind showbar and watering hole that exemplifies the 'alternative' scene of Montreal, and has hosted many of the biggest names before anyone knew them. The club looks like a haunted house at a creepy carnival, there are massive spiders and other frightening entities crawling and spooking the façade, overlooking Ste Catherine street, and in the summertime, a second line of defense, in the form of a sprawling outdoor terrace full of tattooed and pierced throng will surely scare away those without a heightened sense of adventure. But treasures await the bold and brave, as Foufs, as it's endearingly called, has hosted Nirvana, Nine Inch Nails, Smashing Pumpkins, pretty much everyone, in the bowels of the haunted house, usually to crowds of a few hundred early adopters. Foufounes, the name literally means the Electric Buttcheeks, has an amazing sound system, enthusiastic crowds and showcases a great selection of the very latest talents. And while the crowd on the terrace might seem unruly, the terrace at Foufounes on a summer afternoon, is one of the pleasures of downtown Montreal. Serving you daily from 4pm to 3am.

Description:

The best feature of this oddly located hole-in-the-wall is the amazing patio in back. Essentially sitting at the bottom of a six-story hole, it is ensconced in ivy and on summer nights hosts a mature, quiet and thoroughly civilized atmosphere and clientele. Occasionally live bands occupy the patio, which makes it even more appealing.

Description:

Do not expect stadium seating, interactive experiences or IMAX screens. There is nothing fancy here, but this student-favorite repertory house is the source in Montreal for English art films, second-runs, Canadian productions and specialty films like midnight horror features. It's a bargain, too: the five- or ten-movie cards are quite popular. Their program is available all over the city in various bars and restaurants.

Description:

Montréalers are no less enthusiastic about sports, especially hockey, than other Canadians, and fans both avid and casual drop by this three-story sports emporium to catch up with their teams and hoist a few. Games from around the world are fed to walls of TV monitors, and the bar can screen up to 14 events. Food is what you expect -- burgers, steaks, and such.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you have energy to spare and are looking for a funky spot to dance to some music that you won't hear on the top 40 this is it. Sometimes featuring guest DJs, a good night to step into this place is for the Thursday night reggae nights- don't go early- the place only starts filling up around midnight.

Description:

This hip yet welcoming bar and lounge might suffer from an attitude problem if its clientele and staff was not so down-to-earth and friendly. The décor, after all, is as oppressively kitschy as that of some more intimidating Montreal lounges, while the work of local graffiti artist Omen adds a bohemian edge. DJs entertain nearly every night and the comfortable couches and amiable atmosphere are difficult to find elsewhere. Even better, the drinks are quite reasonable.

Our Local Expert Says:

A comfortable and stylish bar that has dangerously delicious Chocolate martinis.

Description:

This is combo lounge/bar is great place to grab a drink and shot a game of pool. The main room is done up like a British pub with fantastically red walls. There are plenty of different beers on tap to enjoy. The second room has pools tables and a stage were live bands play on Fridays. There's a terrific terrace where you enjoy a pint under the summer stars.