Grilyazh

Description:

• The stylized grillwork at the entrance and the discriminating maitre d' tell you right away to expect the best from this restaurant. Specializing in Italian- and French-inspired Russian cuisine, the food is sometimes as pretentious as the service, but overall it's a pleasing experience in fine dining. At the top of the otherwise bohemian Pyatnitskaya Street, it occupies a two-story mansion decked in Art Nouveau light fixtures and antique furniture. Russian executives like to hold banquets here, but it's also a good spot for a romantic interlude, with its soft lighting and exclusive atmosphere. The wine list is impressive. The tuna and salmon carpaccio with ginger and greens is a winning appetizer, and the duck breast with "poacher's" sauce makes a hearty main course. The borscht with garlic rolls is surprisingly better than the lobster bisque.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010