Arty Moscow
Day Note:
Get acquainted with the basics at the Russian Literature of the 20th Century Museum, celebrating the work of Gorky, Lermontov and Tolstoy, among others. The Soviet author Gorky lived and wrote in Moscow until falling out of favor with Stalin - visit his lavish house-museum in north-east Moscow. Next is Dostoyevsky's digs, a dark apartment giving evidence of his gloomy tales. In the evening, dine at Arkhitektor, a restaurant on the former site of the Russian...
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Russian Literature of the 20th century Museum (Muzei Russkoi Literatury 20-ogo veka)
Contact:
- 7 945 202 4618
Location:
- Trubnikovskii Pereulok, 17
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Map
Description:
Russian literature didn't stop at the end of the 19th-century Silver Age. The museum is located in the preserved 19th-century house of noted painter and collector Ostroukhov. The museum holds exhibitions that illustrate the life and works of Russian writers throughout the turbulent and dangerous 20th century. The exhibits show original manuscripts, first editions, drawings, photographs and personal belongings of writers such as Akhmatova, Maiakovskii, Esenin, Okudzhava and others.
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Gorky House Museum (Dom-Muzei A.M.Gor'kogo)
Contact:
- 7 495 290 0535
Location:
- 6/2 Malaya Nikitskaya Ulitsa
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Map
Description:
This building was the home of famous Soviet writer Maxim Gorky from 1931 until his death in 1936. The house was built at the beginning of the 20th century and can be considered a masterpiece of Moscow Style Moderne. This is one of a few places where you can still see an original luxurious interior. Gorky was a prominent supporter of the revolution and despite revulsion at Bolshevik revolution he later became the Soviet Union's leading writer. Despite this, he later fell within the deadly orbit of Stalin's disapproval. The museum exhibitions illustrate Gorky's family history and his life and work under Soviet rule. One of the exhibitions presents more than 200 Japanese ivory and wooden miniatures collected by Gorky.
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Dostoevskii Museum (Muzei Dostoevskogo)
Contact:
- 7 95 281 1085
Location:
- Dostoevskogo Ulitsa, 2
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Map
Description:
This building was once the home of the novelist Fedor Dostoevskii (from 1821 to 1837 where he spent his childhood before moving to St. Petersburg at the age of 16). This apartment (in the former Moscow Marinskii Hospital for the Poor) holds a few clues to Dostoevskii's personality and beliefs. The museum was founded right after the October Revolution of 1917. Its interior still contains the original furniture, which was donated by Dostoevskii's widow and brother in 1928. While the apartment is typical for the beginning of the 19th century, it has unusually dark corners and wooden partitions instead of doors, befitting the brooding nature of the author's works.
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Arkhitektor (The Architect)
Contact:
- 7 495 290 3249/ 7 495 291 7738
Location:
- 20 M. Nikitskaya Street
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Map
Description:
Located in a 19th century mansion where the Russian Architects's union has its headquarters, this restaurant and bar has a warm homely ambience. The food is of hearty homemade flavor, and the Wine card is superb. They conduct celebrations, banquets, presentations and weddings. The large dining area accommodates 170 seats and they also have a separate rooms for 30 and a VIP hall for 16 seats. They have live music and a modern color music facility.
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Theatre of the School of Contemporary Drama (Teatr Shkoly Sovremennoi P'ecy)
Contact:
- 7 495 694 3087/ 7 495 694 0756
- visit website
Location:
- Neglinnaia Ulitsa, 29/14
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Map
Description:
This theatre today stands where a previously famous restaurant (the Hermitage) once stood. The restaurant was frequented by artistic types, such as Chekhov, Tchaikovskii (who celebrated his wedding here), Gorkii, and Dostoevskii, who made his famous speech about Pushkin here. The theatre was founded in place of the restaurant in 1917. They're always searching for a new theatrical language or new modes of performance. Productions include dramas, ballets and opera. The theatre's repertoire includes more than 15 plays, most of which are by modern playwrights.
Day Note:
Start your day with the Tolstoy House Museum, where the rooms have been faithfully restored to look as they did when the Tolstoy family lived there. Then it's on the apartment of Chekhov, where his manuscripts are on display. Spend the afternoon at the Central House of Artists, with a rotating exhibit of modern art. Outside there's an art market where you can take home your own piece of history. Get fancied up, because dinner is at Pushkin, the town favorite...
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Tolstoi House-Museum (Muzei-Usad'ba L.N. Tolstogo)
Contact:
- 7 95 246 9444
- visit website
Location:
- L'va Tolstogo Ulitsa, 21
- Khamovniki
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Map
Description:
This museum was where the great Russian writer Leo Tolstoi lived from 1893 to 1895. The interior has been kept exactly as it was when Tolstoi lived there - on the second floor of the house lies the very office where Tolstoi wrote the vast majority of his novels and short stories. Rimskii-Korsakov and Rachmaninov were among famous visitors; they might even have tinkled the ivories on the piano here. An exhibition tells something of Tolstoi's turbulent life and times. The building itself was built in 1805, but Tolstoi only moved here in October 1882 after complaints from his wife about their country existence at Iasnaia Poliana.
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Chekhov House-Museum (Dom-Muzei A.P. Chekhova)
Contact:
- 7 495 291 6154
Location:
- Sadovo-Kudrinskaia Ulitsa, 6
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Map
Description:
This is the house where the doctor-turned-playwright first found literary success, as an author of short stories and one-act plays. He lived in the pink two-story house with his family between the autumn of 1886 and the spring of 1890.
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Central House of Artists (Tsentral'nyi Dom Khudozhnikov)
Contact:
- 7 495 238 9634 / 7 495 238 9843/ 7 495 330 1782
- visit website
Location:
- Krymskii Val, 10
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Map
Description:
These four floors of galleries and art shops are great for getting a look at what Russia's artists are currently up to, but most people come to buy gifts. The unusual and creative souvenirs include art books in Russian and English, embroidered felt boots, Art Nouveau tea sets, Constructivist vases, tongue-in-cheek T-shirts, and Soviet postcards. Inexpensive evening concerts and other experimental performances draw Moscow's creative crowd. Many visitors come for the informal art market that wends along the adjacent embankment, though beware of rules for exporting works of art.
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Pushkin
Contact:
- 7 495 787 5590/ 7 495 229 9411
Location:
- Tverskoi bul'var, 26a
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Map
Our Local Expert Says:
Quite simply, this is the town’s favorite restaurant. Painstakingly designed as a 19th century apothecary, it is also perhaps the only restaurant in town that turns drab Russian into haute cuisine.
Description:
Perhaps Moscow's most sophisticated 24-hour restaurant, the three-story Cafe Pushkin has the feel of a 19th-century mansion but dates from the late 1990s. Each of the floors has a different thrust, with a cherrywood bar and well-lit cafe on the first floor, a more formal dining room on the second, and a decadent and breezy summer cafe on the top. The menu weighs a ton -- both the Russian and English versions -- and the script is so flowery as to be unreadable at times. Pretty much anything listed is bound to be successful, though standouts are ukha, a creamy, spiced fish soup that manages to be both light and filling; and grilled sterlet with forest mushrooms. Prices are high -- you're paying for the faux-pre-revolutionary atmosphere and top-quality service as well as the food. The vodka selection is impressive and impressively priced, and the hot chocolate and dessert selections offer good, low-budget options.
Day Note:
Love the matryoshka? The Museum of Decorative Folk Arts has that and other quaint items from Russia's long history of folk art. Next, lose yourself in the Tretyakov Gallery, a massive state collection of domestic art before the 20th century. There's so much on display here, from icons to Impressionists, that one afternoon will hardly do it justice. Head back into the center of down to catch the Modern Art Museum, featuring 20th century art, and Art4.ru, a cutting-edge...
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Museum of Decorative and Folk Arts (Muzei Dekorativno-Prikladnogo i Narodnogo Iskusstva)
Contact:
- 7 495 609 0167
Location:
- Delegatskaia ulitsa, 3
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Map
Description:
This unique museum is good for those who are fascinated by matreshka dolls and lacquered boxes. The museum's collection consists of more than 40,000 items of painted lacquer work from different regions of Russia plus embroidery, wood-carvings, lace, pottery, and of course wooden matreshka dolls. The museum's exhibitions present visitors with a full picture of applied and folk arts development from the 17th to the 20th century. All of the museum pieces were contributed by Russian artists and craftsmen.
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Tretiakov Gallery (Tret'iakovskaia Galereia)
Contact:
- 7 495 953 5223
- visit website
Location:
- Lavrushinskii pereulok, 10
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Map
Description:
Pavel Tretiakov, who collected the best work of contemporary painters in Moscow and St. Petersburg, founded this gallery in 1856. His brother Sergei collected the French and Dutch masters, and in 1872 they combined their collections and opened this extremely popular museum. In 1892 it was donated to the city of Moscow, and lives on with works by famous Russian painters such as Vasilii Perov, Ivan Kramskoi and Ilia Repin.
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Modern Art Museum (Muzei Sovremennogo Iskusstva)
Contact:
- 7 495 694 2890/ 7 495 231 4408
- visit website
Location:
- Petrovka Ulitsa, 25, building 1
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Map
Description:
This museum's collection is made up from more than 1,500 unique works of art representing all the various trends and divergent styles of the 20th century. Non-conformist, abstractionist, and post-modernist works are here in abundance. On display are paintings, sketches and other works by a range of world-renowned artists such as Chagall, Kandinsky, Picasso, Shemiakin, Konchalovsky, Steinberg, Petrov-Vodkin, Shemiakin, Pirosmany, Birstein, Oscar Rabin and many others. The Modern Arts Museum also often organizes temporary thematic exhibitions.
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Art 4.RU
Contact:
- 7 495 660 1158
- visit website
Location:
- 4, Hlinovsky tupik
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Map
Description:
For someone like Igor Markin, an individual having no connections with art by education or business, Art 4 is a total diversion. It's plain passion that inspired him to open a gallery with his personal collection of paintings and also encourage budding talent. Markin urges modern artists to vent the fascinations, imaginations and passions on canvas through color; while he himself provides space in the happening city center of Moscow.
Day Note:
First head to the Manezh in Red Square, which typically hosts an exhibition of modern art, then continue on to the Lermontov House Museum, once occupied by the famous Russian poet. At the Pushkin Drama Theater, catch a matinee of a classic Russian play before heading off to dinner at Praga, a lush restaurant beloved by turn-of-the-century intelligentsia.
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Manege (Manezh)
Contact:
- 7 495 698 1660
- visit website
Location:
- Manezhnaia Ploshchad', 1
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Map
Description:
The impressive edifice of the Manege, standing before the walls of the Kremlin, was designed by architect Auguste Montferrand and built by engineer Augustin Betancourt in 1817 to mark the fifth anniversary of Russia's victory over Napoleon in the Patriotic War of 1812. The giant hall (about 7,500 square meters - 166 meters long and 45 meters wide) with a self-supporting roof was considered a great breakthrough in construction techniques. Originally meant for military exercises, reviews and parades, it later housed exhibitions and was used for public entertainment. Since 1957 it has been the Central Exhibition Hall, one of Moscow's most popular art galleries.
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Lermontov House Museum
Contact:
- 7 95 291 5298
- visit website
Location:
- 2 Malaya Molchanovka
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Map
Description:
Chronicler of Russia's Caucasus campaigns, poet and painter Lermontov lived in this cheerful yet studious pink house during his formative student years.
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Pushkin Drama Theatre (Dramaticheskii Teatr imeni A.S. Pushkina)
Contact:
- 7 495 203 8582
Location:
- Tverskoi bulvar', 23
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Map
Description:
Before 1950, Pushkin Drama Theatre used to be known as the Chamber Theatre, but after a decision by the Soviet Art Committee the name was changed and the theatre re-opened with the new name. These days the group tries to follow the old theatre's traditions and for the most part stages classical plays by the likes of Sophocles, Molier, Pushkin, Gogol and others. The theatre stages up to six premieres a year on its main and smaller stages.
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Praga (Prague)
Contact:
- 7 495 290 6171
- visit website
Location:
- Arbat Ulitsa, 2/1
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Map
Description:
Even before the arrival of communists, this place was a favorite hangout of Moscow's elite. Its website waxes lyrical about the university professors, conservatory teachers, musicians, artists and writers who frequented the place around the beginning of the 20th century. In Soviet times the place was a favorite celebration haunt of the upper echelons of Moscow society, and more recently, it was officially reopened by none other than Mayor Luzhkov. The cuisine is Russian and international, offering more than 100 main and vegetable dishes. Its drink menu offers vintage wines, and fine cognacs and vodkas.
Day Note:
As Moscow’s most famous poet, Pushkin gets his due on the last day of your trip. Visit his home-museum on Arbat, then drop by the church he married child bride Natalia Gonchareva. The Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts has his name, but it’s actually a collection of foreign art second only to the Hermitage. The Marat Guelman Gallery of provocative contemporary art will be your final stop before dinner at Nostalgie, a romantic “art club” with live music.
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Pushkin Museum on the Arbat (Muzei-Kvartira A.S. Pushkina na Arbate)
Contact:
- 7 495 241 9295
- visit website
Location:
- Ulitsa Arbat, 53
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Map
Description:
This two-storey 19th-century house is a very interesting place for those who would like to know more about Russia's great poet Alexander Pushkin and about the Moscow of his time. This house was a very significant part of Pushkin's life; here he had a famous bachelor party before his wedding celebration. He married the beautiful Natalia Goncharova on the following day, and he spent the first three months of his married life here. The museum has many portraits of Pushkin and his friends, numerous engravings of 19th-century Moscow and copies of Pushkin's handwriting. A beautiful statue of Pushkin and his ball gowned wife stands in front of the museum.
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Church of the Great Ascension (Tserkov' Bolshogo Vosneseniia)
Contact:
- 7 495 290 5936
Location:
- Bol'shaia Nikitskaia Ulitsa, 36
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Map
Description:
At the time of Catherine the Great, Prince Potemkin decided to construct a majestic and spacious cathedral in place of the old church. However, the process of construction dragged on for nearly 50 years and was finished only in 1840. The church has played a role in the lives of many famous Russians. On the 18th of February 1831, in the unfinished church, the great Russian poet Pushkin got married. The temple was closed in 1931 and severely damaged during the Soviet period. Daily worships were resumed in 1990. Also, here is the sacred icon of the Iverskaia God's Mother.
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Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts (The)
Contact:
- 7 495 203 7998
- visit website
Location:
- 12 Volkhonka
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Map
Description:
This rich and worthwhile museum is often overlooked in favor of St. Petersburg's Hermitage Museum. In fact, the two complement each other, and both deserve a look. Most visitors head straight for the impressive collection of French Impressionist works, though the museum also boasts ancient Greek sculptures and Egyptian bronzes, as well as works by Rembrandt, Rubens, and the Italian masters of the Renaissance. There is also a small but worthwhile collection of post-Impressionist and modernist art. Be sure to view the ever-expanding exhibition of controversial paintings stolen from European Jews by the Nazis and later seized by looting Soviet troops (Russians call them "rescued" artworks), including pieces by Renoir, Daumier, and van Gogh. Note that this Pushkin Museum is merely named after Russians' favorite author Alexander Pushkin; if you want to see a museum about him, skip ahead to the "Literary Moscow" section below.
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Marat Guelman Gallery
Contact:
- 7 495 238 8492 / 7 495 238 2783
- visit website
Location:
- Malaia Polianka Ulitsa, 7/7, building 5
- Building 5
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Map
Description:
This was the first private gallery to open in post-Soviet Russia (November 1990 to be exact). The original aim of founder Marat Guelman was to promote the works of lesser-known artists. Many of the artists showcased here have ended up as big players on the Moscow arts scene. The gallery also became very well known after the organization of several non-commercial projects, the goal of which was to promote pluralism in the arts in a post-socialist society. Admission is free.
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Art-Club Nostalgie
Contact:
- 7 495 916 9478/ 7 495 925 7625
- visit website
Location:
- Chistoprudnyi bul'var 12a
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Map
Description:
A romantic place bringing the atmosphere of Paris all the way to Moscow. The huge variety of cuisine combines the best of European and Russian cooking. The unique wine cellar holds over 5,000 bottles including rare vintage wines from France and other countries and there are live music concerts some evenings. The decor is all mahogany furniture and marble columns. The view from the windows is most impressive. Main dishes are prepared from meat, fish and a great variety of sea products. On weekends, a 'Swedish table' is available that includes a choice of three main dishes plus an unlimited number of visits to the fifty-dish buffet, plus a dessert and a glass of wine.
Moscow
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Skriabin House-Museum (Dom-Muzei Skriabina)
Contact:
- 7 495 241 1901 / 7 495 241 1900
- visit website
Location:
- Bolshoi Nikolopeskovski pereulok, 11
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Map
Description:
This museum devoted to the life of composer and pianist Alexander Skriabin. Opened to the public in 1922, the museum occupies the first floor of a two-story mansion in the Arbat. The museum is a repository of the elite composer's personal belongings, among them pieces of furniture, his grand piano, books, manuscripts, letters. This was where Skriabin composed Sonatas Numbers 8, 9, 10, the, 'Poem to the Flame', five preludes of op. 74, and sketches of, 'The First Act'. The museum is a popular destination for Russian intellectuals and foreign tourists. Excursions are available in English.
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Tolstoy Museum (Muzei L.N. Tolstogo)
Contact:
- 7 495 202 2190/ 7 495 246 9444
- visit website
Location:
- Prechistinka Ulitsa, 11
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Map
Description:
The great Russian author Leo Tolstoy lived here with his family from 1882 to 1901. The building itself dates from the first quarter of the 19th century. The museum was founded in 1911. The eight galleries here illustrate the life of the War and Peace author at the end of the 19th century. The museum's total collection includes more than 545 000 exhibition pieces. This is made up of Tolstoy's personal belongings, the novels published during his lifetime, portraits of Tolstoi and his contemporaries, sculptures, photographs and much more. The number of visitors to the museum is testimony to the ongoing importance of Tolstoy for Muscovites - more than 15,000 people visit the museum every year.