Weekend in Moscow

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This is possibly the most famous central square in the world. It is a humbling sight both day and night; beautiful in winter— regally dramatic all the year round. Originally an expanse of nothing more than mud, and populated by a ragged collection of hawkers, beggars and outcasts, Red Square acquired its present grandness gradually. Nowadays, the square and its surrounds positively exude the drama of Russian past and present. The walls of the Kremlin loom on one side, their blood-red height belittling the pale GUM department store opposite. At the southern end of the square towers, is the onion-domed exuberance of St Basil's Cathedral.

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Architect Alexei Shchusev (who built this imposing mausoleum on Red Square in 1930) modeled it on the ziggurat terraced temples of the ancient Assyrians and Babylonians. Inside, visitors file round the embalmed body of the leader of the Russian Revolution, Vladiamr I. Lenin. The material used for the exterior is mostly dark-red granite and grey and black labradorite. The colors are in perfect harmony with the red bricks of the Kremlin Wall that looms in the background. It measures 12 meters in height and 24 meters in length. Admission is free.

Our Local Expert Says:

The name of the restaurant comes from folksy Russian slang equivalent to something like “Oh fiddlesticks!” That’s the first clue as to what dining here is going to be like. Many Westerners find the backwoods peasant theme profoundly weird, but the food is cheap and filling.

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Elki-Palki is a chain of Russian-style restaurants. It is one of the few places which offers predominantly Russian food and drinks on its menu, although Coca-Cola and beer are also available. The interior can differ from outlet to outlet, but it will always include a lot of woodwork and linen tablecloths. The waiters all wear national Russian costumes. Out of all the traditional Russian menu items available, the borshcht (beet soup), kvas(a non-alcoholic drink made from fermented yeast) and vodka can be considered obligatory. The famous telega (a buffet of salads and starters) will set you back. You will have a wide choice of fish dishes, salads and freshly baked pies with various fillings to choose from as well. It should perhaps be noted that sharing food is not approved of.

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Turandot named after the legend of 'The Icy Princess', is a restaurant which is quite a legend in its own way. Modeled after a Baroque palace, it took six and a half years and about $50 million to complete. This place naturally intrigues most and glitterati and some named personalities are amongst the famed clientele. The restaurant claims that their desire is to astonish and thats exactly what the interiors do. Spring Rolls with Smoked Duck and Peanuts is a must try. The wine list is not only extensive, but also impressive.

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Most cities' public transit systems are necessary eyesores. Moscow's is a masterpiece. Central planning meant that Stalin was free to pour funds and artistic energy into creating the metro. Today it's the world's busiest subway system. However, it's showing some strain, as even trains that run every 90 seconds aren't enough to diffuse crowding. The system is still cleaner than most other big-city subways. Its oldest stations, dating from the 1930s and 1940s, are its grandest, particularly those on the Circle Line. The newer stations at the edges of town are corridors of bland but well-polished white tile. Even if you don't use the metro to get around, take a peek at one of the following stations: Ploshchad Revolutsii, with its bronze sculptures of Soviet swimmers, mothers, and sailors holding up the marble columns; Kievskaya (Circle Line stop), with its cheerful mosaics portraying Ukrainian-Russian friendship; Novokuznetskaya, with its cast-iron streetlights; and Novoslobodskaya, with its Art Nouveau stained glass.

For an even closer view of the metro, with models and an avalanche of statistics, visit the tiny Metro Museum atop the Sportivnaya station (tel. 495/622-7309; free admission; open to individuals Thurs 9am-4pm; open for groups only Mon-Wed and Fri 9am-4pm). The friendly director is a former metro driver who has a lifetime of stories to share (though in Russian only). Most stations are quite deep, and all have head-spinningly long escalators; some of the stations were even built as bomb shelters during World War II.

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Built by soviet architect Alexey Dushkin and opened in 1930, this glamorous station is one of the most well-known in the world for its pre-Stalinist design. The station, which is part of the Zamoskvoretskaya Line on Moscow's metro system, features gorgeous architecture and design. Dushkin's art-deco concept is in full swing as the entire place is covered in ornate marble, pink rhondite, stainless steel and glass mosaics. Inspired and named after poet Vladimir Mayakovsky, due to his descriptions of the Soviet future, this station is certainly one to check out. Marvel at its grandeur and beauty before jumping on a train to your next destination.

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Gorky Park (traditionally referred to as Park Kul'tury i Otdykha or Park of Culture and Recreation) stretches along 3 kilometers of the Moskva river to the southwest of the city center. The park became known to the Western public thanks to a blockbuster movie based on Martin Cruz Smith's best-selling book, 'Gorky Park,' and the Scorpions' famous song. Laid down in 1928, the original ornamental gardens are now accompanied by an entertainment zone, hosting everything from science lectures to rock concerts in its auditorium.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you only get one shot at Georgian, go to Mama Zoya, an excellent restaurant with the added attraction of being housed on a boat in the Moscow River. There’s so much to look at, from intricate wooden furniture (some of the bigger tables are themselves shaped like boats) to live musicians to the hearty Georgian clientele that frequent the place. The menu is the size of the Bible, so ask the waitress what to order.

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The family of Mama Zoya started with a rudimentary cafe, then expanded to an out-of-the-way cellar restaurant, and now boasts a multistory boat-restaurant moored along the Moscow River across from Gorky Park. The latest location is less intimate but more accessible and successful. The food is just as homey even if the service is not quite so familial. This is an atmospheric and decently priced way to sample the rich and underappreciated pleasures of Georgian cuisine. The grilled lamb -- cubed and skewered, ground and skewered, or grilled by the leg -- is a specialty, and it's divine. Also try adzhapsandal, an eggplant-and-tomato based ragout; or pkhali, spinach, garlic, and walnuts ground to a rich paste. Ignore the weird decor of gnomes, palms, and mannequins, and look out at the river instead.

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One of the city's most beloved concert clubs, not necessarily for its acoustics, but for its courage to bring in hip international and domestic bands. Located in Kurskaya, the hippest burough in Moscow, which is home to a number of galleries, fashion studios and underground nightclubs. Named Best Concert Club of the Year by the Nightlife Awards for 2006.

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Bosco Café on Red Square has a chic selection of Italian wines and the best pasta in town. It's a popular place.

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Pavel Tretiakov, who collected the best work of contemporary painters in Moscow and St. Petersburg, founded this gallery in 1856. His brother Sergei collected the French and Dutch masters, and in 1872 they combined their collections and opened this extremely popular museum. In 1892 it was donated to the city of Moscow, and lives on with works by famous Russian painters such as Vasilii Perov, Ivan Kramskoi and Ilia Repin.

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Izmailovo Park is one of the city's oldest parks and covers an area of 332 hectares. It was founded under the reign of Peter the Great and since then has accumulated numerous ponds and attractions. It also hosts the Izmailovo market, one of the best places to pick up souvenirs. Kruglyi pond has a boat station where you can rent a catamaran or a boat for 30-50RUR. During weekends and holidays performers from the Moscow State Circus supply some light-hearted entertainment. Entry is free.

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Among the most exclusive of Moscow's themed restaurants, Shinok is a tangle of juxtapositions. Its genre is Ukrainian farmhouse, with a multilayered dining hall decorated with haystacks, chicken cages, and the occasional goat, and waitstaff adorned as milkmaids and cowhands. Yet its prices are purely urban, and its clientele is decked out in Armani and Dior. Service is efficient, if somewhat haughty. The chefs present elegant, satisfying versions of countryside standards such as borscht with garlic rolls, potato-stuffed dumplings (vareniki), and suckling pig. The cold sorrel soup (zelyoniye shchi) is both tangy and filling, and the egg-and-spice-stuffed carp is mouthwatering. The wines are overpriced; stick to beer or a simple dry Georgian wine. This is a good splurge option, though count on taking a taxi home since it's a long way from the metro -- or even better, order a taxi in advance to avoid the overcharging cabbies lying in wait outside.

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Denis Simachev Bar & Shop opened at the beginning of 2007 on Moscow's haute couture row. Despite its stuffy neighbors (Burberry and Gucci boutiques), this bar is aimed at the young and fashionable, and stays crowded all night long on weekends. Simachev, one of Russia's most innovative fashion designers, collected a range of one-of-a-kind objects from flea markets to decorate his bar.