Mumbai Transportation

Getting There

By Air

Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (+91 22 2615 6600 /+91 22 2682 9000) is one of the busiest airports in India. Mumbai (Bombay) is known as the financial capital of the country, and the Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is the gateway to this "city of opportunity". The airport was formerly known as the Sahar International Airport. It has two terminals that cater to the following airlines:

Aeroflot: (+91 22 2282 1682 / http://www.aeroflot.ru/eng/)

Air Canada: (+91 22 2364 3885 /+91 22 2364 3886/ http://www.aircanada.ca)

Air France: (+91 22 2202 5021 / http://www.airfrance.com)

Air India: (+91 22 2287 6464 / http://www.airindia.com/)

Air Mauritius: (+91 22 2202 8474 / http://www.airmauritius.com)

Alitalia: (+91 22 5663 0800 / http://www.alitalia.com)

Bangladesh Biman: (+91 22 2282 4659 / +91 22 2282 4732, http://www.bimanair.com)

British Airways: [+91 (0)98 9257 7470 / +91 22 2682 8806/ http://www.britishairways.com]

Cathay Pacific: (+91 22 5657 2222 / http://www.cathaypacific.com)

Delta Airlines: (+91 22 2826 7000 / http://www.delta.com)

Egypt Air: (+91 22 2282 4088 / http://www.egyptair.com)

Emirates: (+91 22 2879 7979 / http://www.emirates.com)

Ethiopian Airlines: (+91 22 2216 6066 / +91 22 2216 6067 / http://www.flyethiopian.com)

Gulf Air: (+91 22 2202 1626 /+91 22 2682 8652 / http://www.gulfairco.com)

Iran Air: (+91 22 2204 7070/+91 22 2204 5082 / http://www.iranair.com)

Japan Airlines: (+91 22 2283 3136 / http://www.japanair.com)

KLM (Royal Dutch Airlines): (+91 22 2682 8607 / http://www.klm.com)

Kuwait Airways: (+91 22 2682 9834 / http://www.kuwait-airways.com)

Lufthansa: (+91 22 5630 1940 / +91 22 2682 9898 / http://www.lufthansa.com)

Qantas: (+91 22 2200 7440 / http://www.qantas.com)

Royal Nepal Airlines: (+91 22 2283 6197 / http://www.royalnepal.com)

Singapore Airlines: (+91 22 2202 2747 / +91 22 2202 8316 / +91 22 2682 9900 / http://www.singaporeair.com/saa/)

Swissair: (+91 22 2287 2210 / +91 22 2287 0122 / http://www.swiss.com)

Both the terminals, 1A and 1B, have tourist information centers, 24-hour taxi counters, car rental booths, hotel reservation counters, currency exchange, and a free coach transfer between the terminals.

Mumbai Domestic Airport (+91 22 2615 6600) is located in Santacruz, a Northern suburb of Mumbai. The major domestic airlines that operate through this airport are Indian Airlines (http://indian-airlines.nic.in), Jet Airways (http://www.jetairways.com), Sahara Airlines (http://www.airsahara.net), and Air Deccan (http://www.airdeccan.net). They offer flights to 38 cities across India. The airport has a prepaid taxi counter, tourist information counter, business center and car rental booths.

By Rail

Mumbai is well connected by an extensive railway network (www.indianrailways.com)that caters to local and national routes. The entire network is divided in two major companies, Western Railway (+91 22 2202 7710) and Central Railway (+91 22 2262 2859). The Western Railway operates its local services within Mumbai from Churchgate, and outstation services from Mumbai Central Station. The Central Railway operates its local and outstation services from Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Terminus. Tickets can be booked at the computerized booking centers at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus and Churchgate. Local trains are the best way to get around Mumbai, as they connect almost every locality. They carry about 15 million people everyday, a record for any city metro. These trains are Mumbai's lifeline and adhere strictly to their schedules. Tourists should avoid boarding the local trains during peak hours (8a-10a and 5p-8p), as they get extremely crowded.

By Road

Mumbai is an important hub on the National Highway network, and there is extraordinarily heavy traffic within the city. Driving licenses have a minimum age limit of 18 years, and foreigners with a valid international license can drive in the city. India is a vast country and the distances between cities are enormous. Pune (170 kilometres) is the closest city; Delhi is 1460kilometres, and Kolkata is 2836 kilometres away. The Maharashtra State Road Transport Corporation (+91 22 2307 1524) provides bus services from Mumbai to most cities in Maharashtra and the neighboring states, such as Gujarat, Goa, and Andhra Pradesh. The main bus terminal is located opposite the Mumbai Central Railway Station.

Getting Around

By Bus

Mumbai is well connected by various modes of local transport. BEST (Brihanmumbai Electric Supply and Transport) (+91 22 2281 6656) is one of them; it provides an extensive network of buses. This is the only place, aside from London, where you will find double-deckers. Fares are very cheap and the service is fast. Bus routes and maps are easily available at newspaper stands or railway stations.

By Taxi

Taxis are marked in black and yellow, and travel to all parts of the city and its suburbs. The fares are reasonable and operate by a meter. The minimum fare is Rs. 13 and most taxis carry a printed tariff card. They can also be engaged for an entire day of sightseeing, as most taxi-drivers are familiar with popular locations and tourist spots. You can also make use of a special air-conditioned taxi service called Cool Cab (+91 22 2824 6216 / +91 22 2822 7006). The minimum fare for this service is Rs. 150.

By Auto-Rickshaw

The Auto rickshaws, painted in black and yellow, operate only in the suburbs of Mumbai. Bandra is the last point on their routes. The minimum fare is Rs. 9. Not more than three passengers are permitted to travel in a rickshaw.

Car Rental Companies

You need to have a valid Indian or international license to drive in the city. Some of the major companies that offer private car hire services are: Avis (+91 22 2285 7518), Royal Cars (+91 22 2283 2928), Europcar (+91 22 2645 2796), and Autoriders Rent-a-car (+91 22 2496 1714).

Mumbai is divided into two parts, the town and the suburbs. Colaba to Mahim constitutes Town, and the Suburbs include areas from Bandra to Borivili. Some major tourist attractions in South Mumbai are the Gateway of India, Queen's Necklace at Marine Drive, and Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. Most of these popular attractions are located in and around Colaba and are easily accessible by local train or road.

Planning a Trip

Visitor Information

Technically, there are tourist information desks at both airports, and these should be open for all flight arrivals. Don't count on it, however, and don't expect a lot of help, other than being handed a brochure or booklet and given some bland details of available hotels. That said, a good source of visitor information is the comprehensive City Info booklet, published monthly and available at tourist information offices as well as upmarket hotels and even certain pubs and restaurants. For the best listings of the city's current events and what's hip and happening, look no further than the twice-monthly magazine Time Out, available at all newsstands. The main Government of India Tourist Office (123 Maharishi Karve Rd., Churchgate; tel. 022/2207-4333 or -4334; Mon-Fri 8:30am-6pm, Sat 8:30am-2pm) is where to head for general tourist-related information, but if you're staying at one of the city's better hotels, your concierge will be a good source of information on sightseeing, performances, events, and activities.

Arriving

By Plane -- Mumbai's sprawling Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport (tel. 022/2682-9000 or -9112) has been recently renovated, but don't expect world-class facilities. The airport is located in Sahar, 30km (19 miles) north of the center (which is why it's often called Sahar Airport). Its flights usually arrive and depart between midnight and dawn, which can make finding your feet difficult. A Government of India Tourist Office (tel. 022/2682-9248) at the airport should be open 24 hours but -- as is the case in most of India's tourist offices -- it's certainly not the best place to obtain advice; you'll find the contents of this book far more useful.

Because you will no doubt have to wait in line for foreign exchange (there is only one small booth), it is advisable that you arrange an airport transfer to meet you -- important, too, because you will be accosted by a loud, expectant mass of touts and taxi drivers the minute you exit the terminal doors, all of whom need to be treated with a degree of caution. If you are expecting a pickup, don't get sidetracked or deterred from boarding the correct hotel shuttle -- ignore strangers offering help.

Should you need to hire a taxi, make use of the reliable prepaid taxi service (tel. 022/2682-9922); a trip to a city-center hotel should cost from Rs 340 to Rs 400 ($8-$10/£4-£5) and an additional Rs 10 (25¢/10[p]) per bag. (Expect to pay well over double these rates for a hotel airport transfer, but you'll also get a much better vehicle to travel in.) Because many international flights arrive late at night, traffic delays are usually not a problem, and you should be at your hotel within an hour even if you're staying downtown.

Note: Auto-rickshaws are banned from the city's center, so don't rely on these unless your hotel is located in the immediate vicinity of the airport.

Domestic Airport -- If you are flying direct from Mumbai's international airport on to the next destination, note that you will have to transfer (there is a free bus; make sure you get on it) to the Santa Cruz Domestic Airport (tel. 022/2615-6500; 4km/2 1/2 miles from the international airport and 26km/16 miles north of the city). (Note that the domestic airport has also, bizarrely, been renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport, so it's best to refer to the airports by their location for example, Sahar or Santa Cruz airport). You will have to spend the rest of the night in a very uncomfortable airport seat. If you have arrived at Santa Cruz and plan to spend some time in Mumbai, you can catch a metered taxi from the airport, which should set you back about Rs 300 ($7/£4) for a trip to a hotel in the city center. Since domestic flights are likely to arrive during the day, be prepared for a long, congested, frustrating journey into Mumbai. There's also a tourist office at the domestic airport (tel. 022/2615-6920; daily 7am-11pm).

By Train -- If you are traveling from Central, South, or East India, you will no doubt arrive at "VT," Victoria Station (otherwise known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or CST). A taxi ride farther downtown, to Colaba, should take about 10 to 15 minutes. From the north, you'll arrive at Mumbai Central Station; from here you will have to brave the traffic and take a taxi to your destination.

When to Go

Mumbai's humidity -- even in the small hours of the morning -- is felt instantly, and the sun shines year-round, except in the monsoon months. You always seem drenched in warm sweat, and the heat can be terribly cruel, making sightseeing far less agreeable than a tour of the city's wonderful restaurants and drinking holes. Winter (Nov-Feb) is still hot, although not so entirely unpleasant; the sultry sea air sets the tone for an adventure in exotic dining and an intoxicating jaunt through lively, Victorian-era streets that are constantly crammed with people. The only real relief from the heat comes for brief periods in December and January, and midyear, when the annual monsoon drenches the city with heavy, nonstop tropical rains.

City Layout

Mumbai city lies on the western coast of India, on a thin peninsula that extends southward almost parallel to the mainland. At the southern end of this peninsula are Colaba and the adjoining Fort area, on the east of which lies Mumbai's deep, natural harbor and India's busiest port. West of Fort, hugging the Arabian Sea, is the popular promenade Marine Drive, which begins at the business district of Nariman Point and terminates at Chowpatty Beach and Malabar Hill. These are the focal nodes for tourists who, unlike the locals, often refer to the area as downtown. In fact, locals say they are going "into town," by which they mean they are going toward South Mumbai, the area stretching south from Mahim Creek to Colaba. South Mumbai is where most tourists choose to base themselves (though there are those who prefer to stay in the Bandra/Juhu area). It is the historic heart of the city, with attractions like the Gateway of India and the Prince of Wales Museum, and the widest selection of restaurants and accommodations. The South Mumbai neighborhoods are described in detail below, but to see where most Mumbaikars (or Bombayites) live, including the jet-set stars, it may be worthwhile to take a trip into one of the suburbs. Of these, the most interesting (and a good alternative to South Mumbai if you're staying just 1 night -- it's a great deal closer to the airport) are Bandra and Juhu. Extending northward of Churchgate is the Western Railway local train line, and moving north of Victoria Terminus (or CST) is the Central Railway network. Together, these two suburban train systems transport over 6 million commuters each day.

Finding (and Losing) Your Way . . . -- It soon becomes apparent that Mumbai is not a planned city but has mushroomed according to the needs, wisdom, and follies of its citizens and administrators. Street names in particular can be confusing to first-time visitors; street signs, when they exist, are often ignored -- many people continue to use the old colonial names instead. Colaba Causeway, for example, is the colloquial name for Shahid Bhagat Singh Road; Breach Candy for Bhulabhai Desai Road; and Peddar Road for Deshmukh Marg. In times of confusion, refer to a landmark (or hotel); for example, if you're trying to find Veer Nariman Road and no one understands you, ask for Churchgate Station instead.