Sun and . . .

Description:

• This is a prominent culinary landmark in Nassau, the best of a core of locally owned restaurants valiantly holding their own against daunting competition from better-funded restaurants within the island's mega-resorts. Today, under the hardworking leadership of Belgium-born owner/chef Ronny Deryckere and his wife, Esther, it's more of an inner sanctum than ever, occupying the premises of what was originally built in the 1930s as a private residence, Red Mill House, within an upscale, mostly residential neighborhood east of downtown Nassau. You might start with a drink in the bar area, which is a distinctly separate entity all its own, before heading into one of several dining rooms, arranged around a courtyard containing tropical plants, shrubs, and a pool. Some of the dishes emerging from the kitchen are unique to New Providence and Paradise Island: Examples include sweetbreads, prepared either with white wine and mushroom sauce or with a demi-glacé and cognac; the best Roquefort salad in town; a fabulous steak tartare served with pommes frites; and grilled octopus with chopped onions and olive tapenade. Of special note is the Bahamian fisher's platter, composed of artfully prepared fish caught in local waters. Check out the photos depicting clients of yesteryear, including Frank Sinatra, Bob Hope, Richard Widmark, and the Duke of Windsor.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010