Getting There:
By Air:
Indira Gandhi International Airport (+91 11 565 2011) is located in the Southwestern region of the city. The airport has a bureaux de change, tourist information counters, snack bars, duty-free stores, a restaurant, 24-hour taxi counters and car rental booths. It is safer to book a taxi at the prepaid counter at the airport, as most taxi drivers in Delhi do not adhere to the standard meter. The approximate flying time from Delhi to Toronto is 18 hours, to New York is 16 hours, and to Sydney, 17 hours. The following airlines have counters at the airport:
Air Canada (+91 11 565 2850 / http://www.aircanada.ca)
Air France (+91 11 565 2294 / http://www.airfrance.com)
Air Mauritius (+91 11 565 2050 / http://www.airmauritius.com)
Delta Airlines (+91 11 565 2093 / http://www.delta.com )
Gulf Air (+91 11 565 2065 / http://www.gulfairco.com)
KLM (+91 11 565 2922 / http://www.klm.com)
Korean Air (+91 11 565 3304 / http://www.koreanair.com)
Kuwait Airways (+91 11 565 2295 / http://www.kuwait-airways.com)
Lufthansa (+91 11 548 2283 / http://www.lufthansa.com)
Malaysian Airlines (+91 11 565 2395 / http://www.malaysiaairlines.com)
Swiss Air (+91 11 565 2531 / http://www.swiss.com)
The Domestic Airport (+91 11 329 5126) at Palam, is about 5 kilometers away from the International terminal. This is an important hub for International travelers who wish to travel within the country. The main domestic airlines that operate through this airport are Indian Airlines (http://indian-airlines.nic.in), Jet Airways (http://www.jetairways.com), Sahara Airlines (http://www.airsahara.net), Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) and Go Air Airlines (http://www.goair.in). They offer flights to more than 40 cities across India. The airport has a prepaid taxi counter, tourist information counter, business center and car rental booths.
By Train:
New Delhi is the main hub for Indian Railways (+91 11 334 8787). Unlike Mumbai, Delhi does not have its own local train system, but its extensive national network connects it to all the major and small towns across the country. It has two major stations, one in Old Delhi, located about 7 kilometres from Connaught Place, and another in New Delhi, East of Pahar Ganj. The stations have ample waiting areas and food stalls. However, travelers should be careful with their luggage as chances of theft are high. Ticket reservations can be made at the IRCA building on Chelmsford Road, Pahar Ganj. There is a separate counter for tourists at the International Tourist Bureau (+91 11 334 6804), New Delhi station. You can also make online bookings, or get further information from the official website of the Idian Railways, www.indianrailways.com.
By Road:
Five National Highways pass through New Delhi. The Grand Trunk Road (National Highway 1) is used most frequently as it leads to the North of the country, towards Amritsar and Agra; National Highway 2 goes towards Calcutta in the East, and National Highway 8 passes through Jaipur in the West. Driving licenses require a minimum age of 18 years, and foreigners with international licenses can drive in the city without additional documents. Most cities and towns are located close to Delhi, and are well connected by road. The driving time from Delhi to Agra and Jaipur is under three hours, to Amritsar is under five hours, and the to the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh is under eight hours.
Bus Services:
Local buses are very congested, and are often not the preferred mode of transportation for the middle-class. Taxis and rickshaws are usually favored. However, the inter-state bus services are quite comfortable. They offer air conditioned, deluxe and ordinary buses to all major destinations around Delhi. The Interstate Bus Terminus (ISBT) is located at Kashmir Gate, North of Old Delhi Railway Station. The following state operators provide bus services in and around the city: Delhi Transport Corporation (+91 11 386 8836), Haryana Roadways (+91 11 296 1262), Himachal Pradesh Roadways (+91 11 251 6725), Punjab Roadways (+91 11 296 7842), Rajasthan Roadways (+91 11 252 2246) and Uttar Pradesh Roadways (+91 11 251 8709).
Getting Around:
Public Transport
New Delhi now boasts of its first metro network. The metro will be partly underground and partly elevated; and will extend up to 62 kilometers and more in the future.
By Bus:
The public buses in Delhi are uncomfortable and over-crowded. The Delhi Transport Corporation (+91 11 331 7445) has a centralized network of buses that have 300 routes across the city. A general All-Route Pass can be availed from any of the terminals at Red Fort, Delhi Gate and Shahdara Terminal.
By Taxi:
The most convenient way to move around is by taxi. Following a Government anti-pollution policy, all taxis now operate on CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) engines. Some taxis have electronic meters, but most taxis operate on a prior bargained rate. It is best to negotiate a price before stepping into one.
By Rickshaw:
Rickshaws too, form an integral part of the city's transportation. Widely-used, they also follow the same principle as the taxis. It is better to negotiate a rate before boarding this transport though. Four- and six-seater motorcycle rickshaws run on fixed routes at fixed prices, mostly between the Red Fort and Palika Bazaar at Connaught Place.
Car Hire:
Driving on Delhi roads can be quite a challenging task, as motorists often do not heed to traffic laws. The best option is to hire a car with a local driver to take you around town.
Some of the major car hire services are:
Europcar Inter-Rent (+91 11 688 3498)
Hertz (+91 11 687 7188), Eco Rent A Car (+91 11 462 3261)
Jai Jawala Tourist (+91 11 26252924).
Getting There:
By Air:
Indira Gandhi International Airport (+91 11 565 2011) is located in the Southwestern region of the city. The airport has a bureaux de change, tourist information counters, snack bars, duty-free stores, a restaurant, 24-hour taxi counters and car rental booths. It is safer to book a taxi at the prepaid counter at the airport, as most taxi drivers in Delhi do not adhere to the standard meter. The approximate flying time from Delhi to Toronto is 18 hours, to New York is 16 hours, and to Sydney, 17 hours. The following airlines have counters at the airport:
Air Canada (+91 11 565 2850 / http://www.aircanada.ca)
Air France (+91 11 565 2294 / http://www.airfrance.com)
Air Mauritius (+91 11 565 2050 / http://www.airmauritius.com)
Delta Airlines (+91 11 565 2093 / http://www.delta.com )
Gulf Air (+91 11 565 2065 / http://www.gulfairco.com)
KLM (+91 11 565 2922 / http://www.klm.com)
Korean Air (+91 11 565 3304 / http://www.koreanair.com)
Kuwait Airways (+91 11 565 2295 / http://www.kuwait-airways.com)
Lufthansa (+91 11 548 2283 / http://www.lufthansa.com)
Malaysian Airlines (+91 11 565 2395 / http://www.malaysiaairlines.com)
Swiss Air (+91 11 565 2531 / http://www.swiss.com)
The Domestic Airport (+91 11 329 5126) at Palam, is about 5 kilometers away from the International terminal. This is an important hub for International travelers who wish to travel within the country. The main domestic airlines that operate through this airport are Indian Airlines (http://indian-airlines.nic.in), Jet Airways (http://www.jetairways.com), Sahara Airlines (http://www.airsahara.net), Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com) and Go Air Airlines (http://www.goair.in). They offer flights to more than 40 cities across India. The airport has a prepaid taxi counter, tourist information counter, business center and car rental booths.
By Train:
New Delhi is the main hub for Indian Railways (+91 11 334 8787). Unlike Mumbai, Delhi does not have its own local train system, but its extensive national network connects it to all the major and small towns across the country. It has two major stations, one in Old Delhi, located about 7 kilometres from Connaught Place, and another in New Delhi, East of Pahar Ganj. The stations have ample waiting areas and food stalls. However, travelers should be careful with their luggage as chances of theft are high. Ticket reservations can be made at the IRCA building on Chelmsford Road, Pahar Ganj. There is a separate counter for tourists at the International Tourist Bureau (+91 11 334 6804), New Delhi station. You can also make online bookings, or get further information from the official website of the Idian Railways, www.indianrailways.com.
By Road:
Five National Highways pass through New Delhi. The Grand Trunk Road (National Highway 1) is used most frequently as it leads to the North of the country, towards Amritsar and Agra; National Highway 2 goes towards Calcutta in the East, and National Highway 8 passes through Jaipur in the West. Driving licenses require a minimum age of 18 years, and foreigners with international licenses can drive in the city without additional documents. Most cities and towns are located close to Delhi, and are well connected by road. The driving time from Delhi to Agra and Jaipur is under three hours, to Amritsar is under five hours, and the to the hill stations of Himachal Pradesh is under eight hours.
Bus Services:
Local buses are very congested, and are often not the preferred mode of transportation for the middle-class. Taxis and rickshaws are usually favored. However, the inter-state bus services are quite comfortable. They offer air conditioned, deluxe and ordinary buses to all major destinations around Delhi. The Interstate Bus Terminus (ISBT) is located at Kashmir Gate, North of Old Delhi Railway Station. The following state operators provide bus services in and around the city: Delhi Transport Corporation (+91 11 386 8836), Haryana Roadways (+91 11 296 1262), Himachal Pradesh Roadways (+91 11 251 6725), Punjab Roadways (+91 11 296 7842), Rajasthan Roadways (+91 11 252 2246) and Uttar Pradesh Roadways (+91 11 251 8709).
Getting Around:
Public Transport
New Delhi now boasts of its first metro network. The metro will be partly underground and partly elevated; and will extend up to 62 kilometers and more in the future.
By Bus:
The public buses in Delhi are uncomfortable and over-crowded. The Delhi Transport Corporation (+91 11 331 7445) has a centralized network of buses that have 300 routes across the city. A general All-Route Pass can be availed from any of the terminals at Red Fort, Delhi Gate and Shahdara Terminal.
By Taxi:
The most convenient way to move around is by taxi. Following a Government anti-pollution policy, all taxis now operate on CNG (Compressed Natural Gas) engines. Some taxis have electronic meters, but most taxis operate on a prior bargained rate. It is best to negotiate a price before stepping into one.
By Rickshaw:
Rickshaws too, form an integral part of the city's transportation. Widely-used, they also follow the same principle as the taxis. It is better to negotiate a rate before boarding this transport though. Four- and six-seater motorcycle rickshaws run on fixed routes at fixed prices, mostly between the Red Fort and Palika Bazaar at Connaught Place.
Car Hire:
Driving on Delhi roads can be quite a challenging task, as motorists often do not heed to traffic laws. The best option is to hire a car with a local driver to take you around town.
Some of the major car hire services are:
Europcar Inter-Rent (+91 11 688 3498)
Hertz (+91 11 687 7188), Eco Rent A Car (+91 11 462 3261)
Jai Jawala Tourist (+91 11 26252924).
more transportation
Frommer's
Planning a Trip
Visitor Information
To pick up a free map of Delhi or to get up-to-date information on sights, city tours, and taxi/rickshaw prices, head for the India Tourism Office at 88 Janpath (near Connaught Place; tel. 011/2332-0005 or -0008; www.incredibleindia.org; Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm). You will also find Government of India Tourist offices at both airports (open 24 hr.). Do not confuse these with so-called "government authorized" tourist offices, which are not authorized by anyone and are very adept at fleecing the unsuspecting. You will find these fakes particularly along Janpath and at the New Delhi railway station; make sure you seek assistance only at 88 Janpath or from one of the recommended tour operators. If you intend to travel anywhere during your sojourn in India by train, you may choose to make all your reservations in Delhi (though these are just as easily available in other big cities). You can make bookings at the helpful Indian Railways Counter at the airport. Alternatively, for information, visit the Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation (DTTDC; Bombay Life Building, N-Block, Connaught Place; tel. 011/2331-5322; www.delhitourism.nic.in; Mon-Sat 9:30am-6pm).
Getting There
By Air -- Most major international airlines operate in what is one of the best-connected cities in south Asia. Delhi has separate domestic and international airports that lie 8km (5 miles) apart; a free hourly shuttle bus runs between them. Note that the domestic airport has two terminals, 1A and 1B, also connected by free shuttle bus (1A is for Indian Airlines; check which one you need to be at when leaving). Indira Gandhi International Airport (tel. 011/2569-6021 or 011/2565-2011; www.delhiairport.com) lies 20km (12 miles) southwest of Connaught Place (the city center), 25 to 50 minutes away. The cheapest way (but one to be avoided) to get into town is to catch a State Transport bus (Rs 50/$1.25/65p plus luggage fee), but if you've just crossed time zones you'll want to opt for a taxi; Easycabs (tel. 011/4343-4343) is the best option, with rates ranging from Rs 200 to Rs 450 ($4.90-$11/£2.50-£5.60) for rides from the airport to the main hotels in town. If you've just arrived in India, it's also not worthwhile to hire a rickshaw; they may be cheaper than taxis, but they're very slow and bound to be uncomfortable if you're burdened with luggage -- plus, you will almost certainly be pressured into handing over more money even if the price has been discussed upfront. Choosing, let alone negotiating with, a taxi driver is likely to make your head spin, so it's best to book a taxi at the official prepaid taxi kiosk (just outside the arrivals hall; ask for directions, and don't be sidelined). It offers fixed rates, with a small fee for each piece of large luggage, but expect to pay between Rs 195 and Rs 300 ($4.75-$7.35/£2.40-£3.70) into the center of town (25% more after 11pm). Better still, ask your hotel to arrange the transfer, though this will more than likely double the price, unless you have booked a "Club Room" at one of the upmarket chains -- these usually include chauffered transfers in the rate. Note that you can change money at the international airport at the State Bank of India or Thomas Cook counters (both 24 hr.), but you can't draw money on your credit card.
By Train -- Of the five stations, most trains arrive at either New Delhi Station, a 10-minute walk from Connaught Place, or at Old Delhi Station in Shahjahanabad. (Note that if you're traveling on to Agra, you may need to catch the passenger train that leaves from Nizamuddin Station, south of Connaught Place.) For rail inquiries and reservations, call tel. 131 from 8am to 8pm. All stations are well-serviced by taxis and auto-rickshaws. Again, negotiate the fare upfront -- expect to pay Rs 50 ($1.25/65p) to Connaught Place, slightly more to Shahjahanabad/Old Delhi -- or insist on using the meter. Note that if you plan to travel elsewhere in India by train, you don't necessarily need to prebook all your train trips in Delhi. It's easiest to do this with a recommended travel agent like Sadhana Travel (tel. 011/2646-5312, 011/4161-8278, or 98-1005-2471), which also does air travel and tour itineraries; or work with a travel agent attached to your hotel. Keep in mind that on some trains a small quota of seats is set aside for foreign travelers. A travel agent cannot book these seats; you will need to go to the station to a special counter to book them.
Getting Around
The Delhi Metro can be useful for covering longer distance (like getting to Oberoi Maidens in the north), but as is the case elsewhere, subways also provide no sense of the city layout or passing sights. During peak hours, the tube can also get overcrowded and claustrophobic, and women traveling alone may get unwelcome attention. Ticketing agents are still not very clued in or helpful, either. If you want to try out the Metro, consider buying a 1-day card.
The best way to get around is still in Delhi's black-and-yellow taxis or, for short distances, auto-rickshaws (run on eco-friendly CNG -- compressed natural gas), but be sure to agree on the price upfront. For instance, traveling from Connaught Place to Red Fort shouldn't cost more than Rs 100 ($2.45/£1.25) by auto-rickshaw, Rs 150 ($3.65/£1.85) by taxi. Delhi has the most complacent lot of auto-rickshaw drivers in the country; if they don't feel like going where you're asking, they'll simply refuse you service. Often, this is a ploy to press you for more money (official rates are Rs 8/20¢/10p for the first kilometer, and Rs 3.50/9¢/4p for every kilometer thereafter). If you feel you're being overcharged, accuse the driver of cheating and threaten to report him (often simply pretending to dial the police on your mobile phone does the trick); to really complain, dial tel. 011/2337-8888 (24 hr.). If the idea of having to haggle like this turns your stomach, Mega Cab (tel. 011/4141-4141) is a radio taxi outfit that offers a convenient, marginally more expensive, alternative, with a fleet of air-conditioned cars outfitted with working meters (Rs 15/37¢/19p per kilometer at press time) available around-the-clock; their drivers usually keep you abreast of their arrival via cellphone.
If you'd prefer to hire a car and driver for a half- or full day, arrange this through your hotel or, for the best possible rate and reliable drivers, through The One (tel. 011/2687-7434), which has given us nothing but joy in Delhi. Better still, contact Shahabuddin Khan (tel. 99-1087-1230 or 93-1203-2182) directly; he's the best driver we've had in the city, speaks wonderful English (and several other languages), has had experience abroad, and at press time was planning to start his own company.
If you plan to tour North India by car, setting off from Delhi, contact Greaves Travels India (www.greavesindia.com), a reputable operator with good drivers. At press time there was talk of a new Heritage Bus, which will certainly make visits to the city's top sights easier and more affordable.
Note: It is inadvisable to travel anywhere during rush hour -- you will almost certainly find yourself in a traffic jam in one of the most polluted cities in the world.
Guided Tours
You can book an air-conditioned bus tour of New Delhi (daily 9am-1:30pm) and/or Old Delhi (daily 2:15-5:45pm) through Delhi Tourism. Tours cost Rs 158 ($3.85/£1.95) each, or Rs 263 ($6.45/£3.25) for both; monument admission fees are extra. Both also offer long-distance tours that include trips to Agra, Jaipur, and Rishikesh, but we definitely recommend you opt for a private operator like Go Delhi Luxury Tours (tel. 98-9988-8207; www.godelhi.net), or TCI (tel. 011/2341-5367 or 011/2341-6167). Their tours are more personal, and the higher tariff (upward of Rs 1,000/$24/£12 per person, excluding monument entry) ensures that you get a decent English-speaking guide and an air-conditioned vehicle.
For an excellent introduction to Hinduism, as well as visits to some of the lesser-known sights in Old and New Delhi, book into Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation -- the erudite proprietor gives one of the best tours we've had in India, and runs the best-value guesthouse in Delhi, too.
If you'd care to learn more about life on the streets of Delhi, and fancy a walking tour, contact Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk (tel. 98-7313-0383; sbttour@yahoo.com), although you'd better be prepared to have your heart broken. The daily walks through the city's hodge-podge streets and back alleys are led by street children who will share views on life that will possibly change your reality forever. INTACH (The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage; 71 Lodhi Estate; tel. 011/2464-1304) conducts 2-hour morning walks through Chandni Chowk on Saturdays. For very comfortable customized tours of the city and farther afield, contact Navigator Holidays or Banyan Tours and Travel, or that U.K.-based stalwart in Indian travel, Cox & Kings. Another company worth highlighting is Exotic Journeys -- all you need to do is supply proprietor Raj Singh with your budget (as low as $100/£50 per day, including car, driver, and accommodations -- or higher, of course), number of days, and area of interest, and he will customize an excellent trip, kicking off with 2 days of sightseeing in Delhi. Contact him at exotic@del2.vsnl.net.in or exoticjourney@vsnl.com, or call tel. 011/2612-4069.
Planning a Trip
Visitor Information
To pick up a free map of Delhi or to get up-to-date information on sights, city tours, and taxi/rickshaw prices, head for the India Tourism Office at 88 Janpath (near Connaught Place; tel. 011/2332-0005 or -0008; www.incredibleindia.org; Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am-2pm). You will also find Government of India Tourist offices at both airports (open 24 hr.). Do not confuse these with so-called "government authorized" tourist offices, which are not authorized by anyone and are very adept at fleecing the unsuspecting. You will find these fakes particularly along Janpath and at the New Delhi railway station; make sure you seek assistance only at 88 Janpath or from one of the recommended tour operators. If you intend to travel anywhere during your sojourn in India by train, you may choose to make all your reservations in Delhi (though these are just as easily available in other big cities). You can make bookings at the helpful Indian Railways Counter at the airport. Alternatively, for information, visit the Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation (DTTDC; Bombay Life Building, N-Block, Connaught Place; tel. 011/2331-5322; www.delhitourism.nic.in; Mon-Sat 9:30am-6pm).
Getting There
By Air -- Most major international airlines operate in what is one of the best-connected cities in south Asia. Delhi has separate domestic and international airports that lie 8km (5 miles) apart; a free hourly shuttle bus runs between them. Note that the domestic airport has two terminals, 1A and 1B, also connected by free shuttle bus (1A is for Indian Airlines; check which one you need to be at when leaving). Indira Gandhi International Airport (tel. 011/2569-6021 or 011/2565-2011; www.delhiairport.com) lies 20km (12 miles) southwest of Connaught Place (the city center), 25 to 50 minutes away. The cheapest way (but one to be avoided) to get into town is to catch a State Transport bus (Rs 50/$1.25/65p plus luggage fee), but if you've just crossed time zones you'll want to opt for a taxi; Easycabs (tel. 011/4343-4343) is the best option, with rates ranging from Rs 200 to Rs 450 ($4.90-$11/£2.50-£5.60) for rides from the airport to the main hotels in town. If you've just arrived in India, it's also not worthwhile to hire a rickshaw; they may be cheaper than taxis, but they're very slow and bound to be uncomfortable if you're burdened with luggage -- plus, you will almost certainly be pressured into handing over more money even if the price has been discussed upfront. Choosing, let alone negotiating with, a taxi driver is likely to make your head spin, so it's best to book a taxi at the official prepaid taxi kiosk (just outside the arrivals hall; ask for directions, and don't be sidelined). It offers fixed rates, with a small fee for each piece of large luggage, but expect to pay between Rs 195 and Rs 300 ($4.75-$7.35/£2.40-£3.70) into the center of town (25% more after 11pm). Better still, ask your hotel to arrange the transfer, though this will more than likely double the price, unless you have booked a "Club Room" at one of the upmarket chains -- these usually include chauffered transfers in the rate. Note that you can change money at the international airport at the State Bank of India or Thomas Cook counters (both 24 hr.), but you can't draw money on your credit card.
By Train -- Of the five stations, most trains arrive at either New Delhi Station, a 10-minute walk from Connaught Place, or at Old Delhi Station in Shahjahanabad. (Note that if you're traveling on to Agra, you may need to catch the passenger train that leaves from Nizamuddin Station, south of Connaught Place.) For rail inquiries and reservations, call tel. 131 from 8am to 8pm. All stations are well-serviced by taxis and auto-rickshaws. Again, negotiate the fare upfront -- expect to pay Rs 50 ($1.25/65p) to Connaught Place, slightly more to Shahjahanabad/Old Delhi -- or insist on using the meter. Note that if you plan to travel elsewhere in India by train, you don't necessarily need to prebook all your train trips in Delhi. It's easiest to do this with a recommended travel agent like Sadhana Travel (tel. 011/2646-5312, 011/4161-8278, or 98-1005-2471), which also does air travel and tour itineraries; or work with a travel agent attached to your hotel. Keep in mind that on some trains a small quota of seats is set aside for foreign travelers. A travel agent cannot book these seats; you will need to go to the station to a special counter to book them.
Getting Around
The Delhi Metro can be useful for covering longer distance (like getting to Oberoi Maidens in the north), but as is the case elsewhere, subways also provide no sense of the city layout or passing sights. During peak hours, the tube can also get overcrowded and claustrophobic, and women traveling alone may get unwelcome attention. Ticketing agents are still not very clued in or helpful, either. If you want to try out the Metro, consider buying a 1-day card.
The best way to get around is still in Delhi's black-and-yellow taxis or, for short distances, auto-rickshaws (run on eco-friendly CNG -- compressed natural gas), but be sure to agree on the price upfront. For instance, traveling from Connaught Place to Red Fort shouldn't cost more than Rs 100 ($2.45/£1.25) by auto-rickshaw, Rs 150 ($3.65/£1.85) by taxi. Delhi has the most complacent lot of auto-rickshaw drivers in the country; if they don't feel like going where you're asking, they'll simply refuse you service. Often, this is a ploy to press you for more money (official rates are Rs 8/20¢/10p for the first kilometer, and Rs 3.50/9¢/4p for every kilometer thereafter). If you feel you're being overcharged, accuse the driver of cheating and threaten to report him (often simply pretending to dial the police on your mobile phone does the trick); to really complain, dial tel. 011/2337-8888 (24 hr.). If the idea of having to haggle like this turns your stomach, Mega Cab (tel. 011/4141-4141) is a radio taxi outfit that offers a convenient, marginally more expensive, alternative, with a fleet of air-conditioned cars outfitted with working meters (Rs 15/37¢/19p per kilometer at press time) available around-the-clock; their drivers usually keep you abreast of their arrival via cellphone.
If you'd prefer to hire a car and driver for a half- or full day, arrange this through your hotel or, for the best possible rate and reliable drivers, through The One (tel. 011/2687-7434), which has given us nothing but joy in Delhi. Better still, contact Shahabuddin Khan (tel. 99-1087-1230 or 93-1203-2182) directly; he's the best driver we've had in the city, speaks wonderful English (and several other languages), has had experience abroad, and at press time was planning to start his own company.
If you plan to tour North India by car, setting off from Delhi, contact Greaves Travels India (www.greavesindia.com), a reputable operator with good drivers. At press time there was talk of a new Heritage Bus, which will certainly make visits to the city's top sights easier and more affordable.
Note: It is inadvisable to travel anywhere during rush hour -- you will almost certainly find yourself in a traffic jam in one of the most polluted cities in the world.
Guided Tours
You can book an air-conditioned bus tour of New Delhi (daily 9am-1:30pm) and/or Old Delhi (daily 2:15-5:45pm) through Delhi Tourism. Tours cost Rs 158 ($3.85/£1.95) each, or Rs 263 ($6.45/£3.25) for both; monument admission fees are extra. Both also offer long-distance tours that include trips to Agra, Jaipur, and Rishikesh, but we definitely recommend you opt for a private operator like Go Delhi Luxury Tours (tel. 98-9988-8207; www.godelhi.net), or TCI (tel. 011/2341-5367 or 011/2341-6167). Their tours are more personal, and the higher tariff (upward of Rs 1,000/$24/£12 per person, excluding monument entry) ensures that you get a decent English-speaking guide and an air-conditioned vehicle.
For an excellent introduction to Hinduism, as well as visits to some of the lesser-known sights in Old and New Delhi, book into Master Paying Residential Guest Accommodation -- the erudite proprietor gives one of the best tours we've had in India, and runs the best-value guesthouse in Delhi, too.
If you'd care to learn more about life on the streets of Delhi, and fancy a walking tour, contact Salaam Baalak Trust City Walk (tel. 98-7313-0383; sbttour@yahoo.com), although you'd better be prepared to have your heart broken. The daily walks through the city's hodge-podge streets and back alleys are led by street children who will share views on life that will possibly change your reality forever. INTACH (The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage; 71 Lodhi Estate; tel. 011/2464-1304) conducts 2-hour morning walks through Chandni Chowk on Saturdays. For very comfortable customized tours of the city and farther afield, contact Navigator Holidays or Banyan Tours and Travel, or that U.K.-based stalwart in Indian travel, Cox & Kings. Another company worth highlighting is Exotic Journeys -- all you need to do is supply proprietor Raj Singh with your budget (as low as $100/£50 per day, including car, driver, and accommodations -- or higher, of course), number of days, and area of interest, and he will customize an excellent trip, kicking off with 2 days of sightseeing in Delhi. Contact him at exotic@del2.vsnl.net.in or exoticjourney@vsnl.com, or call tel. 011/2612-4069.
