Swagath

Description:

• This might just be the best seafood restaurant in Delhi. Frequented by a seasoned crowd and always busy, the place has a no-nonsense ambience over several floors in Defence Colony Market, a popular shopping area in a relaxed residential area. The menu brings together many classic South Indian dishes -- Mangalorean, Maharashtran, Keralan, Malabari, and Chettinad cuisines are represented, each with their peculiar spices and gravies and varieties of fish -- a great testament to the diversity of Indian culinary influences. This is also the only place in town where you can sample "Bombay Duck" (or Bombil), dried, crispy fish that makes a finger-licking starter. We also love the garlicky prawns, done in butter and pepper and absolutely potent with fresh garlic. For a main course, we usually go straight for the "special fish," but be sure to specify "surmai," which is the less bony kingfish (bangda -- mackerel -- is the bonier alternative). If you're fond of Thai curries, you might like the taste of fish gassi, a Mangalorean-style dish with coconut gravy, which comes highly recommended. And, we've heard nothing but good reports about the scrumptious garlic-butter crabs, prawns gassi, and green masala pomfret. Tip: If you're feeling adventurous, the little mobile vendor stationed near Swagath's entrance prepares excellent paan. Considered a digestive and a stimulant, these parcels of tobacco, betel nut, and other assorted ingredients (some even include low traces of opiate) may not be something you want to do regularly, but they're certainly a vital part of Indian street culture. Ask for one of the sweeter blends and remember to chew, not swallow!

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Highly Recommended 2010