New Orleans Transportation

Planning a Trip

No matter what your idea of the ideal New Orleans trip is, this guide will give you the information to make informed plans and help point you toward some additional resources.

Visitor Information

Even a seasoned traveler should consider writing or calling ahead to the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau, 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans, LA 70130 (tel. 800/672-6124 or 504/566-5011; www.neworleanscvb.com). The staff is extremely friendly and helpful, and you can easily get any information you can't find in this book from them. If you're having trouble making decisions, they can give you good advice; if you have a special interest, they'll help you plan your visit around it -- this is definitely one of the most helpful tourist centers in any major city.

Once you've arrived in the city, you also might want to stop by the Visitor Information Center, 529 St. Ann St. (tel. 504/568-5661), in the French Quarter. The center is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm and has walking- and driving-tour maps and booklets on restaurants, accommodations, sightseeing, special tours, and pretty much anything else you might want to know about. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable about both the city and the state.

NOLA.com is an excellent resource, offering online versions of the Times-Picayune, information about nightlife and festivals, good links, and, of course, Bourbocam (a webcam aimed 24/7 at a certain corner of Bourbon St.; at press time, down for repairs), which we watch compulsively on the days leading up to Mardi Gras.

To read a few blogs about New Orleans first try www.gumbopages.com for plenty of information about New Orleans-related food and music, plus updates on the native author's many local friends and family. For additional blog action, there is www.appetites.us for excellent NOLA food coverage. The following is a roundup of literate locals, musing (and sometimes ranting) about the state of their beloved city, post-Katrina.

• www.righthandthief.blogspot.com
• www.bloggingneworleans.com
• www.peoplegetready.jockamofeenanay.com
• www.humidcity.com
• www.dapoblog.blogspot.com

Getting There

By Plane

Among the airlines serving the city's Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY) are America West (tel. 800/235-9292; www.americawest.com), American (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Continental (tel. 800/525-0280 or 504/581-2965; www.continental.com), Delta (tel. 800/221-1212; www.delta.com), JetBlue (tel. 800/538-2583; www.jetblue.com), Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525; www.nwa.com), Southwest (tel. 800/435-9792; www.southwest.com), US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com), and United (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com).

The airport is 15 miles west of the city, in Kenner. You'll find information booths scattered around the airport and in the baggage claim area, as well as a branch of the Travelers Aid Society.

With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you'll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and he or she will probably whisk you to the front of the line.

Bring a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver's license or passport, and if you've got an e-ticket, print out the official confirmation page; you'll need to show your confirmation at the security checkpoint, and your ID at the ticket counter or the gate. (Children under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights, but the adults checking in with them need them.)

At press time the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) recommended practicing the 3-1-1 rule for getting carry-on baggage through security without problems: Liquids or gels must be in a 3-ounce bottle (or smaller); items must be stored in a 1-quart clear, plastic zip-top bag; 1 bag per passenger is allowed in the screening bin. Prescription medications, baby formula, and breast milk in amounts greater than 3 ounces may be carried on, but they must be declared. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a "personal item" such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it's still considered a personal item. For more information on restricted and nonrestricted items, check the website for the TSA (www.tsa.gov) for details.

In 2003 the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets and without checked bags can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using electronic kiosks or even online check-in. Ask your airline which alternatives are available, and if you're using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket. If you're checking bags, you will still be able to use most airlines' kiosks; again, call your airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, though some airlines are now charging for it (around $2-$3). However, a few airlines still ban curbside check-in entirely; call before you go.

At press time the TSA is also recommending that you not lock your checked luggage so screeners can search it by hand if necessary. The agency says to use plastic "zip ties" instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.

Immigration & Customs Clearance -- International visitors arriving by air, no matter what the port of entry, should cultivate patience and resignation before setting foot on U.S. soil. U.S. airports have considerably beefed up security clearances in the years since the terrorist attacks of September 11, and clearing Customs and Immigration can take as long as 2 hours.

Getting Into Town from the Airport -- From the airport, you can get to your hotel on the Airport Shuttle (tel. 504/522-3500). For $15 per person (one-way), the van will take you directly to your hotel. There are Airport Shuttle information desks (staffed 24 hr.) in the airport. Shuttles now go to the French Quarter, Garden District, Central Business District, and Faubourg Marigny.

Note: If you plan to take the Airport Shuttle to the airport when you depart, you must call a day in advance and let them know what time your flight is leaving. They will then tell you what time they will pick you up. You can also book and pay for a round-trip in advance.

A taxi from the airport to most hotels will cost about $29 for one to two people; if there are three or more passengers, the fare is $12 per person plus a $2 gas surcharge.

If you want to ride in style from the airport to your hotel, try New Orleans Limousine Service (tel. 504/529-5226). Express transfer service for a six-passenger limo is $125.

From the airport, you can reach the Central Business District by bus for $1.60 (exact change required). Buses run from 6am to 6:30pm. From 6 to 9am and 3 to 6pm, they leave the airport every 12 to 15 minutes and go to the downtown side of Tulane Avenue between Elks Place and South Saratoga Street; at other times, they leave every 23 minutes. For more information, call the Regional Transit Authority (tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com).

By Car

You can drive to New Orleans via I-10, I-55, U.S. 90, U.S. 61, or across the Lake Pontchartrain Causeway on La. 25. From any direction, you'll see the city's distinctive and swampy outlying regions; if you can, try to drive in while you can enjoy the scenery in daylight. For the best roadside views, take U.S. 61 or La. 25, but only if you have time to spare. The larger roads are considerably faster.

It's a good idea to call before you leave home to ask for directions to your hotel. Most hotels have parking facilities (for a hefty daily fee); if they don't, they'll give you the names and addresses of nearby parking lots.

AAA (tel. 504/367-4095; www.aaa.com) will assist members with trip planning and emergency services.

Driving in New Orleans can be a hassle, and parking is a nightmare. It's a great city for walking, and cabs are plentiful and not too expensive, so you really don't need a car unless you're planning several day trips.

Nevertheless, most major national car-rental companies are represented at the airport.

By Train

As with the interstates and highways into New Orleans, the passenger rail lines cut through some beautiful scenery. Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245] or 504/528-1610; www.amtrak.com) trains serve the city's Union Passenger Terminal, 1001 Loyola Ave.

The New Orleans train station is in the Central Business District. Plenty of taxis wait outside the main entrance to the passenger terminal. Hotels in the French Quarter and the Central Business District are just a short ride away.

Getting Around

You really don't need to rent a car during your stay in New Orleans. Not only is the town just made for walking (thanks to being so flat -- and so darn picturesque), but most places you want to go are also easily accessible on foot or by some form of the largely excellent public transportation system. Indeed, we find a streetcar ride to be as much entertainment as a practical means of getting around. At night, when you need them most, cabs are easy to come by. Meanwhile, driving and parking in the French Quarter bring grief. The streets are narrow and crowded, and many go only one way. (This is easily the most confusing city we have ever driven around in, and we've driven in Rome.) Street parking is minimal (and likely to attract thieves), and parking lots are fiendishly expensive.

Sure, everything takes a bit longer when you are depending on the kindness of strangers to get around, but driving and parking headaches take time, too, and are not conducive to a pleasant vacation. Besides, you need to walk off all those calories you'll be ingesting!

By Public Transportation

Discount Passes -- If you won't have a car in New Orleans, we strongly encourage you to invest in a VisiTour pass, which entitles you to an unlimited number of rides on all streetcar and bus lines. It costs $5 for 1 day, $12 for 3 days. Many visitors think this was the best tip they got about their New Orleans stay and the finest bargain in town. Passes are available from VisiTour vendors -- to find the nearest one, ask at your hotel or guesthouse or contact the Regional Transit Authority (RTA; tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com). You can contact the RTA for information about any part of the city's public transportation system.

Buses -- New Orleans has an excellent public bus system, so chances are there's a bus that runs exactly where you want to go. Local fares at press time are $1.25 (you must have exact change in bills or coins), transfers are an extra 25¢, and express buses are $1.25 (or you can use a VisiTour unlimited pass). You can get complete route information by contacting the RTA (tel. 504/248-3900; www.norta.com) or by picking up one of the excellent city maps available at the Visitor Information Center, 529 St. Ann St., in the French Quarter.

Streetcars -- Besides being a National Historic Landmark, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar is also a convenient and fun way to get from downtown to Uptown and back. Badly damaged by Katrina, it is once again running its full 6 1/2-mile length, ending at South Carrollton and South Claiborne avenues. In the meantime, the iconic green cars survived fine and have been transferred temporarily to the newer Canal and riverfront lines . When restored to full service, the streetcars run 24 hours a day at frequent intervals, and the fare is $1.25 each way (you must have exact change in bills or coins). Streetcars can get crowded at rush hour and when school is out for the day. Board at Canal and Carondelet streets (directly across Canal from Bourbon St. in the French Quarter) or anywhere along St. Charles Avenue, sit back, and look for landmarks or just enjoy the scenery.

The streetcar line extends beyond the point where St. Charles Avenue bends into Carrollton Avenue. The end of the line is at Palmer Park and Playground at Claiborne Avenue, but you'll want to mount a shopping expedition at the Riverbend shopping area. It will cost you another $1.25 for the ride back to Canal Street. It costs 10¢ to transfer from the streetcar to a bus.

The riverfront streetcar runs for 2 miles, from the Old Mint across Canal Street to Riverview, with stops along the way. It's a great step saver as you explore the riverfront. The fare is $1.50, and there's wheelchair ramp access (but not on the St. Charles line).

The Canal Street streetcar line started running just in time for Jazz Fest 2006. Naturally, all of the spiffy new air-conditioned bright-red cars flooded, hence the use of the historic green cars on this line, though word at press time is that the red cars should be back soon. Be sure to check the destination sign, because one branch, Cemeteries, only goes there (to several of the older cemeteries, in fact), while the other, labeled either City Park or Beauregard Circle, is the one you want if you are taking it to Mid-City, City Park/the New Orleans Museum of Art, or Jazz Fest. Be prepared for jammed cars during Jazz Fest, because the line runs to within a few blocks of the fairgrounds. If your destination is strictly Canal Street/Carrollton, any of the cars will take you there. One-way fares are $1.25.

A Bus Named Desire -- "They told me to take a streetcar named Desire and then transfer to one called Cemeteries and ride 6 blocks and get off at Elysian Fields!"

Although Blanche's directions wouldn't actually have gotten her to Stella and Stanley's house (Tennessee Williams fiddled with streetcar lines to make his metaphor work), there were indeed once streetcars called Desire and Cemeteries. The signs indicated their ultimate destinations -- a street and a district, respectively. However, Blanche's later question, "Is that streetcar named Desire still grinding along the tracks?" must now be answered "no." (Unless we are still using that metaphor.)

The streetcar in question, which used to run through the French Quarter along Bourbon and Royal streets, has, like all but two of its brethren, been replaced by buses. That means you can't take a whirl on the legendary streetcar (though Cemeteries was revived in 2004!), but you can still ride buses called Desire.

By Car

If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

If you must have a car, try one of the following car-rental agencies: Avis, 2024 Canal St. (tel. 800/331-1212 or 504/523-4317; www.avis.com); Budget Rent-A-Car, 1675 Canal St. (tel. 800/527-0700 or 504/565-5600; www.budget.com); Dollar Rent-A-Car, 1910 Airline Hwy., Kenner (tel. 800/800-4000 or 504/467-2285; www.dollar.com); Hertz, 300 Poydras St. (in the Loews Hotel; tel. 800/654-3131 or 504/568-1645; www.hertz.com); or Alamo, 225 East Airline Hwy., Kenner (tel. 888/826-6893 or 504/469-0532; www.goalamo.com). Also check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around. Also worth visiting are Orbitz, Hotwire.com, Travelocity, and Priceline.com, all of which offer competitive online car-rental rates.

Rental rates vary according to the time of your visit and from company to company, so call ahead and do some comparison shopping. Ask lots of questions, try different dates and pickup points, and ask about corporate or organizational discounts (such as AAA or frequent-flier-program memberships). And if you're staying for a week or more, be sure to ask about weekly rates, which are cheaper.

To rent a car in the United States, you need a valid driver's license, a passport, and a major credit card. The minimum age is usually 25, but some companies will rent to younger people and add a surcharge. It's a good idea to buy maximum insurance coverage unless you're positive your own auto or credit card insurance is sufficient. Stick to the major companies because what you might save with smaller companies might not be worth the headache if you have mechanical troubles on the road. Rates vary, so it pays to call around.

New Orleans driving is more of a thrill than ever, thanks to potholes, traffic signals that could still be malfunctioning, street signs that have been turned around and damaged by the hurricane winds, and even streets where the asphalt has crumbled thanks to weeks spent under water. Unless you are touring the severely flooded areas, you probably won't contend with much of this, but be aware that it's a possibility. Meanwhile, New Orleans drivers are often reckless, so drive defensively. The meter maids are an efficient bunch, even now, so take no chances with parking meters. Carry change with you -- many meters take only quarters. Note that some streets, notably stretches of the shopping district on Magazine, have fancy machines placed at intervals, which could cause you to accidentally think the parking was free. Locate the machine, pay for whatever time you want, and then place the issued ticket inside on your dashboard. It's probably best to use your car only for longer jaunts away from congested areas. Most hotels provide guest parking, often for a hefty daily fee; smaller hotels or guesthouses (particularly in the French Quarter) may not have parking facilities but will be able to direct you to a nearby public garage. Parking lots are very expensive, and street parking is minimal.

The narrow streets and frequent congestion make driving in the French Quarter more difficult than elsewhere in the city. Streets are one-way, and on weekdays during daylight hours, Royal and Bourbon streets between the 300 and 700 blocks are closed to vehicles. The blocks of Chartres Street in front of St. Louis Cathedral are closed at all times. Driving is also trying in the Central Business District, where congestion and limited parking make life difficult for motorists. Do yourself a favor: Park the car and use public transportation in both areas.

Once you get into more residential areas like the Garden District and off main drags like St. Charles Avenue, finding where you are going becomes quite a challenge. Street signs are often not legible until after you cross an intersection, if they are present at all. At night they aren't even lit, so deciphering where you are can be next to impossible. If you must drive, we suggest counting the number of streets you have to cross to tell you when to make any turns rather than relying on street signs.

By Taxi

Taxis aren't quite as plentiful as they have been in New Orleans, but they can still be hailed easily on the street in the French Quarter and in some parts of the Central Business District, and they are usually lined up at taxi stands at larger hotels. Otherwise, telephone and expect a cab to appear in about 15 minutes. The rate is $4.50 (up thanks to the current high price of gas) when you enter the taxi and $1.60 per mile thereafter. During special events (like Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest), the rate is $4 per person (or the meter rate if it's greater) no matter where you go in the city. It is a $10 fee for transfers between hotels no matter how short the ride.

Most taxis can be hired for a special rate for up to five passengers. It's a hassle-free and economical way for a small group to tour far-flung areas of the city (the lakefront, for example). Within the city you pay an hourly rate; out-of-town trips cost double the amount on the meter.

The city's most reliable company is United Cabs (tel. 504/524-9606; www.unitedcabs.com).

On Foot

We can't stress this enough: Walking is by far the best way to see New Orleans. There are too many unique and sometimes glorious sights that you can miss if you whiz past them by using other forms of transportation. Slow down. Have a drink to go. Get a snack. Stroll. Take one of our walking tours. Sure, sometimes it's too hot or humid -- or raining too hard -- to make walking attractive, but there is always a cab or bus nearby. Remember to drink lots of water if it's hot and pay close attention to your surroundings. If you enter an area that seems unsafe, retreat.

By Bike

One of the best ways to see the city is by bike. The terrain is flat, the breeze feels good, and you can cover a whole lot of ground on two wheels. A bike store near the French Quarter rents bikes by the hour, day, or longer. Bicycle Michael's, 622 Frenchmen St. (tel. 504/945-9505; www.bicyclemichaels.com), rents mountain and hybrid bikes; during Jazz Fest it has a fleet of 100 bikes at the ready. Rates are $7.50 an hour, $20 a day, and $80 for 5 days. The shop requires a credit card deposit.

By Ferry

The Canal Street ferry is one of the city's secrets -- and it's free for pedestrians. The ride takes you across the Mississippi River from the foot of Canal to Algiers Point (25 min. round-trip), and it affords great views of downtown New Orleans and the commerce on the river. Once in Algiers, you can walk around the old Algiers Point neighborhood and tour Mardi Gras World. At night, with the city's glowing skyline reflecting on the river, a ride on the ferry can be quite romantic. The ferry also carries car traffic (for free), in case you'd like to do some West Bank driving.

By Train

International visitors can buy a USA Rail Pass, good for 15 or 30 days of unlimited travel on Amtrak (tel. 800/USA-RAIL [872-7245]; www.amtrak.com). The pass is available online or through many overseas travel agents. See Amtrak's website for the cost of travel within the western, eastern, or northwestern United States. Reservations are generally required and should be made as early as possible. Regional rail passes are also available.

By Bus

Bus travel is often the most economical form of public transit for short hops between U.S. cities, but it's certainly not an option for everyone (particularly when Amtrak, which is far more luxurious, offers similar rates). Greyhound (tel. 800/231-2222; www.greyhound.com) is the sole nationwide bus line. International visitors can obtain information about the Greyhound North American Discovery Pass. The pass, which offers unlimited travel and stopovers in the U.S. and Canada, can be obtained from foreign travel agents or through www.discoverypass.com.