Dooky Chase

Description:

• For decades, Leah and husband Dooky Chase have served prominent African-American politicians, musicians, and businesspeople Chef Leah's classic soul food as gloriously influenced by the city's French, Sicilian, and Italian traditions. This was the place people like Ray Charles (who wrote "Early in the Morning" about it) would come to after local shows and stay up until the wee hours telling stories and eating gumbo -- one of the city's best. The restaurant had 2 feet of flooding, not to mention mold issues, and rebuilding has come along very slowly, despite benefits held for the Chases both here and in other cities. (Ms. Leah is pleased she got a new stove out of the deal, though, since she's wanted one for so long. An octogenarian, she says she has to keep going long enough to cook on it!) At press time they were still struggling to open regularly, so call ahead. The Chases lived for over a year in a FEMA trailer outside their restaurant, and they are as wonderful as their cooking. They are everything that is New Orleans, and so make a stop at the restaurant they've worked so hard for, once it comes back. Then you can have shrimp Clemenceau, an unlikely but successful casserole of sautéed shellfish, mushrooms, peas, and potatoes, not to mention exquisite fried chicken, sautéed veal, grits, grillades, and court bouillon. All this, and Dooky and Leah. Long may they cook.

• © Frommer's 2012

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010