The Ultimate New Orleans Weekend

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Starting at the edge of the French Quarter, the historic St. Charles Streetcar takes you up one of the most beautiful streets in New Orleans. St. Charles Avenue is shaded by live oak trees that still have Mardi Gras beads tangled in their branches, and this stately boulevard is the place to see enormous, breathtaking mansions built around the turn of the 20th century. There are plenty of restaurants and bars along the way, including Voodoo BBQ, Sushi Brothers, and Emeril's Del Monico. You can admire the architecture of the Columns Hotel, or stop there and have a mint julep on their sweeping southern front porch. The streetcar takes you past Audubon Park and Tulane and Loyola Universities. You can get off at the end of St. Charles Avenue and have a daiquiri at New Orleans Original Daiquiris, or keep riding up Carollton Avenue, another beautiful street, until you get to City Park!

Our Local Expert Says:

Taking a tour of Lafayette Cemetery is definitely worthwhile. There are a lot of fascinating things to learn about the cemetery and the burial customs of New Orleans.

Description:

Lafayette Cemetery in the Garden District is one of the oldest cemeteries in the country, and has been in operation since 1824. New Orleans residents quickly learned that because of the high water table and unpredictable flooding, coffins cannot be placed six feet underground; their dead must be buried in above-ground tombs. These rows of sarcophagus tombs are the reason New Orleans cemeteries are often referred to as "Cities of the Dead." Lafayette Cemetery may look strangely familiar – it has been used in several movies, including Interview with a Vampire. Author Anne Rice lives nearby and wrote about Lafayette Cemetery in many of her vampire books. Visitors can take a tour and learn the history of Lafayette Cemetery (you can even take a carriage ride there from the French Quarter), or you can explore on your own. See the wall vaults and the "Secret Garden," a square of four tombs built by a secret society of friends who wanted to be buried together. As for lunch after touring, the Commander's Palace, one of the best restaurants in the city, is right across the street.

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Voted "Best Restaurant in the United States" in 1996 by the James Beard Foundation, this eatery lives up to its reputation with exceptional cuisine and a dining experience you will not soon forget. One piece of the package here is the wait staff; the efficient men and women smother guests with attention. Dining rooms vary in size from large to intimate in this 1880s Victorian house in the heart of the Garden District. Jackets are required for dinner and Sunday brunch. Each night features a seven-course fixed price menu with changing specials and the option to mix and match off the regular menu. The Turtle Soup is famous. Other standouts include Mississippi roasted quail stuffed with Creole crawfish sausage. There is also an excellent wine list with suggestions for each entree.

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New Orleans is home to world famous, first-class restaurants. But the locals know some of the best food can be found at little neighborhood places. The casual, old New Orleans neighborhood feeling of Ignatius Eatery & Grocery is unmistakable. The Crawfish, Corn and Potato Soup serve up all of the flavors of a crawfish boil in one bowl and the Roast Beef Po' Boy is arguably one of the best in New Orleans. A delectable brunch menu combines breakfast favorites with New Orleans traditions to create tasty treats like Jambalaya and Crawfish Etouffe Omelets. Check the chalk board on the sidewalk for a daily special that has been known to feature dishes like a Sautéed Shrimp Remoulade Po' Boy or Boudin Meatloaf.

Our Local Expert Says:

Magazine Street is where the Uptown locals go to shop and hang out. There are so many fun things to see and do on Magazine Street!

Description:

Magazine Street is a six mile stretch of shops and eateries, beginning at the edge of the French Quarter and ending at Audubon Park. The fun, trendy street is loaded with specialty stores, galleries, restaurants, and bars. Between Canal Boulevard and Jackson Avenue visitors will find many antique stores and art galleries, including the Glassworks and Printmaking Studio. Closer to Jackson Avenue are funky stores, along with great, cheap restaurants such as Juan's Flying Burrito for Mexican fare and J'anita's for breakfast and BBQ. Between Washington and Louisiana are no less than twelve restaurants, three bars and two coffee shops, as well as tons of clothing boutiques, including retro and "recycled" fashions at Funky Monkey and Buffalo Exchange. Past Louisiana, the shopping continues down Magazine Street – antiques, art, books, apparel, and plenty of restaurants and bars along the way for when you need a break. Have a roast beef po-boy at Ignatius, near Napoleon Avenue, or sip a blueberry mojito on the back patio at St. Joe's, near Jefferson Avenue.

Our Local Expert Says:

Audubon Park is alive with nature – ducks, geese, egrets, and squirrels. And if you walk from Audubon Park to Riverview Park on the side of the stables, you will be able to see the giraffes inside Audubon Zoo!

Description:

Audubon Park is really several parks in one, spanning St. Charles Avenue all the way to the Mississippi River. A fitness trail circles the Audubon Golf Course and runs alongside live oak trees and lush lagoons that are home to ducks, geese, egrets, and turtles. Cross over Magazine Street, and you'll come to the Audubon Zoo and Cascade Stables. Keep walking alongside the zoo, past the Audubon Labyrinth and across the train tracks, until you get to Riverview Park. Known to locals as "the fly," this is a great spot for playing soccer, or just laying in the sun with a daiquiri, admiring the waters of the Mississippi. The park is a great place to play or picnic, and if you don't want to drive there, you can get to the park from the French Quarter on the St. Charles Streetcar or by the John James Audubon ferry boat.

Description:

New Orleans made a mistake when it tore down its famous bordellos. If somebody had turned one of the grander ones into a hotel, imagine how many people would stay there! The next best thing is The Columns, whose interior was used by Louis Malle for his film about Storyville, Pretty Baby. Built in 1883, the building is one of the city's greatest examples of a late-19th-century Louisiana residence. The grand, columned porch is a highly popular evening scene thanks to the bar inside. The immediate interior is utterly smashing; we challenge any other hotel to match the grand staircase and stained-glass-window combination.

The Columns is another hotel that benefited from Katrina. The building lost part of its roof during the storm, creating a waterfall effect inside. The resulting new carpets, drapes, paint, and bedspreads have freshened up a musty place that sorely needed it. We wish still more had been done to make the upstairs match that smashing downstairs; it's still a bit too dark and the color schemes not that great. The totally renovated third floor looks more modern, mostly to good and comfortable effect. The Pretty Baby room has no discernable nods to its ostensible theme (nor does the Bellocq), but it does have a nice garret sitting area. We particularly like room no. 16, with its grand furniture and floor-to-ceiling shutters that lead out to a private, second-story porch. The Columns is worth the money if you can get a low rate, but otherwise, come by for a drink. Smoking is not permitted in the rooms.

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Richard Benz, formerly of Gautreau's, has mastered the "new" New Orleans cuisine making this a dining hotspot. This casual spot with comfortable seating is a collaboration of home and contemporary styles. They complement each other nicely inside pumpkin colored walls adorned with hand-painted plates and vases of fresh flowers. The atmosphere is upscale casual. Start with the Pain Perdu or the fried oysters. For dinner opt for one of its many choices of Smoked Whole Fish, or go for the Pecan Crusted Gulf Fish. Decadent delights for the sweet tooth include Coconut Mango Creme Brulee, and the Tchoupitoulas Tcheesecake. A wine list of whites and reds are sold by the glass or by the bottle.

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This is what a New Orleans club is all about, and its reputation was only furthered when it became the very first live music venue to reopen, just weeks after Katrina, with an emotional, generator-powered performance by Walter "Wolfman" Washington. It's medium-size but feels smaller when a crowd is packed in, and by 11pm on most nights, it is, with personal space at times becoming something you can only wistfully remember. But that's no problem. The stage is against the window facing the street, so more often than not, the crowd spills onto the sidewalk and into the street to dance and drink (and escape the heat and sweat, which are prodigious despite a high ceiling). You can hear the music just as well, watch the musicians' rear ends, and then dance some more. With a party atmosphere like this, outside is almost more fun than in. But inside is mighty fine. A good bar and a rather pretty patio out back (the other place to escape the crush) make the Maple Leaf worth hanging out at even if you don't care about the music on a particular night. But if the ReBirth Brass Band is playing, do not miss it; go and dance until you drop.

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Dedicated to the late piano master Professor Longhair and featured in the movie The Big Easy, Tip's was long the New Orleans club. But due to circumstances both external (increased competition from House of Blues and others as well as the club's capacity being cut in half by city authorities) and internal (some gripes about pre-Katrina booking quality) its star has faded some. It remains a reliable place for top local bands, though, and if you can catch Troy Andrews or especially Dr. John on one of his excursions back to his city, it's a must.

The place is nothing fancy -- just four walls, a wraparound balcony, and a stage, all of it overseen by a giant drawing of 'Fess his own self. Oh, and a couple of bars, of course, including one that serves the people milling outside the club, which as at other top locales is as much a part of the atmosphere as what's inside. Bookings range from top indigenous acts (a brass-bands blowout and a jazz piano night are the perennial highlights of Jazz Fest week) to touring alt-rock and roots acts, both U.S.-based and international. It's uptown and a bit out-of-the-way, but it's definitely worth the cab ride on the right night. A stop can make for a memorable experience.

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This French-market coffee stand, established in 1862, offers a menu of dark coffee and chicory, beignets, white or chocolate milk and freshly-squeezed orange juice. The cafe is open seven days a week, 24 hours a day (except Christmas Day) and is one of the most popular places in New Orleans for singles, couples and families. You may have to wait for a table during the busiest morning hours. While the coffee is certainly good, most people come for the famous, fresh-from-the-fryer beignets. They are brought to your table in such a hurry that they are still hot when you take that first melt-in-your-mouth bite.

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Based on the journals of Laura Locoul (1861 - 1963) , a Creole woman and owner of Laura Plantation, this fascinating walking tour takes you through the streets of the French Quarter and into the homes and secret courtyards of Laura's prominent family. You'll see grand townhouses, cottages, and slave quarters while learning the history of New Orleans Creoles, Free people of Color, and slaves. The tour also takes you through the Pharmacy Museum and to St. Louis Cemetery Number One to see Laura's tomb.

Our Local Expert Says:

If you go on the Le Monde Creole tour, they will take you to St. Louis Cemetery Number One, but if you want to spend more time there, or learn about the famous people who are buried in St. Louis Cemetery, take a tour of the cemetery itself.

Description:

Established in 1789 on the outer edge of the French Quarter, St. Louis Cemetery Number One is the most famous of all the "Cities of the Dead" in New Orleans. Take a tour or explore on your own the rows of sarcophagi and large society tombs. Marie Louveu, the famous Voodoo Queen, is buried there, and many visitors leave toys, flowers, and coins around her tomb. It is said that if you want to ask her for a favor, just knock on her tomb three times! St. Louis Cemetery is within walking distance of the French Quarter, but you can also take a carriage ride there from Jackson Square, and learn more history along the way.

Description:

Located in the heart of the French Quarter inside the Princess of Monaco Carriage House & Courtyard, Cafe Amelie offers a welcome refuge from the busy streets. As the former home of Alice Heine, the first American Princess of Monaco, the courtyard and carriage house provide an exquisite, romantic dining atmosphere. The kitchen uses only fresh, local ingredients for its small, but mighty menu which captures the flavor of the city with its southern Creole and Cajun cuisine. Try the New Orleans Pan Fried Crab Cakes with citrus drizzle or the Creole Lamb Chops. Dinner can get pricey, but you get what you pay for in service and ambiance. Patrons can also enjoy live music on Friday and Saturday evenings.

Our Local Expert Says:

One of the best things about Royal Street is that some blocks are closed to traffic and talented performers entertain you as you window shop. The Spanish and French architecture is beautiful, and Royal Street is the perfect place for a stroll – day or night.

Description:

Royal Street in the French Quarter is the perfect place to go for window shopping and a daytime stroll. On this beautiful and historic street, visitors will find art, antiques, specialty shops, and restaurants, as well as dozens of street performers. On any given day you might hear a jazz ensemble, bluegrass group, brass band, or just a boy and his guitar. Magicians, tap dancers, saxophone players, and men in head-to-toe metallic costumes are also common sights. The art galleries are breathtaking, and the street boasts some of the best restaurants in the city, such as Brennan's and The Court of Two Sisters. Other excellent Royal Street points of interest include Painted Alive Gallery, Cornstalk Bed and Breakfast, and the Carousel Bar, located inside Hotel Montelone.

Our Local Expert Says:

The street performers and fortune tellers in Jackson Square are great, but if a man asks you to make a bet about where you got your shoes, don’t fall for it! He’ll say “you got your shoes in Jackson Square in New Orleans, Louisiana!”

Description:

Jackson Square is a beautiful little park that sits in front of the commanding St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in America. Presiding over the park is a statue of Andrew Jackson on his horse, and surrounding the square are artists and street performers, as well as horse-drawn carriages waiting to take you on a tour of the Quarter. Have the fortune tellers look at your palm, or let a local artist draw your caricature. Of course, there are also museums, shops, and restaurants surrounding Jackson Square, including Muriel's, a five-star haunted restaurant where each day the wait-staff sets a table and pours wine for their resident ghost. "We don't know who drinks the wine," they say, "but every morning it's gone." In Jackson Square at night, you really can feel the presence of the ghosts of New Orleans past.  During the Christmas Season, Jackson Square is the spot for nighttime caroling, and in the spring the park blooms with bright flowers. 

Description:

The St. Louis Cathedral prides itself on being the oldest continuously active cathedral in the United States. What usually doesn't get mentioned is that it is also one of the ugliest. The outside is all right, but the rather grim interior wouldn't give even a minor European church a run for its money.

Still, its history is impressive and somewhat dramatic. The cathedral formed the center of the original settlement, and it is still the major landmark of the French Quarter. This is the third building to stand on this spot. A hurricane destroyed the first in 1722. On Good Friday 1788, the bells of its replacement were kept silent for religious reasons rather than ringing out the alarm for a fire -- which eventually went out of control and burned down more than 850 buildings, including the cathedral itself.

Rebuilt in 1794, the structure was remodeled and enlarged between 1845 and 1851 by J. N. B. de Pouilly. The brick used in its construction was taken from the original town cemetery and was covered with stucco to protect the mortar from dampness. And just when you think that's all, along comes Katrina. The roof leaked, ruining the $1-million organ, currently off getting rebuilt in Ohio and due to return sometime in 2008. Outside, two magnificent ancient live oaks fell down, narrowly missing the statue of Jesus that stood between them. Jesus's thumbs were amputated, and Archbishop Hughes, in his first post-Katrina sermon in the cathedral, vowed not to replace them until the rest of New Orleans is healed. The stately oaks were a painful loss, but plans are in the works to restore the garden to the design of the late 1800s. It's worth going inside to catch one of the free docent tours; the knowledgeable guides are full of fun facts about all of the above, plus the windows and murals and how the building nearly collapsed once from water table sinkage. Be sure to look at the slope of the floor: Clever architectural design somehow keeps the building upright even as it continues to sink. Outside is a plaque marking the visit by Pope John Paul II in 1987, plus an additional large commemorative marker set into the flagstones of Jackson Square, renaming that area for the late Pontiff.

Our Local Expert Says:

The t-shirts and other New Orleans souvenirs are cheaper at the French Market than at the other stores in the Quarter.

Description:

Running between Decatur Street and the Mississippi River, the French Market in New Orleans is the oldest city market in the U.S. Located on the same spot since 1791, the market now houses restaurants, shops, bars, and free live music (don't miss the praline samples at Aunt Sally's Praline Shop!). Near the end of the stretch is the farmer's market where visitors will find local produce as well as local delicacies such as alligator jerky, kettle corn, and an enormous collection of hot sauces. The final leg of the French Market is the open-air community flea market where merchants from all over the world sell art, crafts, jewelry, luggage, and much, much more. This is a great place to buy souvenirs, and don't be afraid to bargain!

Description:

The Bistro at Muriel's Jackson Square offers New Orleans classics like Gumbo, BBQ Shrimp, Oysters "Muriel", Turtle soup, Fried Gulf Shrimp Po-boy, Stuffed Flounder, Shrimp Remoulade & contemporary Creole cuisine like Pecan Crusted Drum & Wood Grilled Tuna while the Courtyard Bar is the perfect place to drop by for drinks & appetizers. The Séance Lounge is the place for a relaxed, comfortable meeting before or after dining. Comprised of two areas, The Outer & The Inner Séance, the Séance also tells the story of a mystic & checkered past. The Outer Séance addresses the New Orleans era of Storyville & when Muriel's Jackson Square was one of the French Quarter's best bordellos! The Inner Séance is the preferred domain of the resident ghost, Pierre Antoine Lepardi Jourdan, & is the perfect spot for an intimate conversation & a drink amongst its plush surroundings.

Our Local Expert Says:

Bourbon Street in the French Quarter is one of the best places for people watching. It bright, crazy, and loud – a party for all the senses. No matter when you go, you know there will be something happening on Bourbon Street!

Description:

It wouldn't be a trip to New Orleans without Bourbon Street! The party never stops on this crazy, colorful street that runs through the heart of the French Quarter. Any time of day or night, you can hear live music, dance in the streets, drink a daiquiri, or dangle Mardi Gras beads at passersby from one of the many balconies. Closer to Canal Street are the adult entertainment clubs, closer to Esplanade Avenue are the gay-friendly venues, and in between are blocks and blocks of bars, clubs, shops, and restaurants. Don't miss Pat O'Brien's famous four-shot rum Hurricane and their outdoor patio with the beautiful fiery fountain. Check out Fritzel's for great jazz, Razoo's for sweaty dancing, and the Cat's Meow for karaoke, as well as Jean Lafitte's, a dark and cozy bar located in the pirate's historic blacksmith shop. Go ahead and have a drink (it's five o'clock somewhere!) and saunter down Bourbon Street, the greatest adult playground in the country.

Description:

There's always someone singing at The Cat's Meow!  Located right on Bourbon Street, this is the largest Karaoke bar in New Orleans, and a lot of fun whether you're singing or watching. The staff keeps things lively on stage, and there are plenty of costumes and props to help you spice up your performance.  Sing along or with a friend, and cheer on other singers.  The club features a large dance floor surrounded by an elevated stage, several elevated bars, and a back patio. Upstairs on the balcony, take a break from the crowd and look out over Bourbon Street.

Description:

You might walk right past this small establishment, but that would be a big mistake because the 1831 building brings some of the city's best musicians to play on its tiny stage. In addition to the regular weekend program of late-night jazz (Fri-Sat from 10:30pm, Sun from 10pm), there are frequent jam sessions in the wee hours during the week when performers end their stints elsewhere and gather to play "musicians' music." The full bar also stocks a variety of schnapps (served ice-cold) and German beers.