Theatercaféen

Description:

• The New York Times, with a great deal of justification, listed this cafe as among the 10 most famous on the planet. If you like to eat and drink in opulence, head here for your grand fix. The last of the grand Viennese cafes in the north of Europe, this long-standing favorite was founded a century ago to rival the Grand Café. Each has its devotees, although we like this one better because of its Viennese schmaltz. Serenaded by piano and a duet of violins, the style might have pleased the Habsburg emperor Franz-Josef had he ever ventured this far north. It attracts present-day boulevardiers and businesspeople. With soft lighting, antique bronzes, cut-glass lighting fixtures, and Art Nouveau mirrors, it's the type of place that encourages lingering. Menu items are well prepared and traditional, and are adjusted accordingly to get the best flavors out of each season. That might mean white wine-steamed mussels or grilled monkfish served with bacon and summer cabbage. Also tantalizing is the fried trout with a truffle hollandaise or marinated salmon with dill-stewed potatoes.

• © Frommer's 2013

Awards:

Frommer's

•  Recommended 2010