You'll either admire this restaurant for its sense of cutting-edge glamour or become irritated with its inflated sense of grandeur, its artfully vague lack of organization, and, in some cases, its genuinely silly sense of chichi. Depending on when you arrive, your meal will be served either on the street level or in the cellar, where a well-publicized team of hot designers (including Jacques Garcia and Ora-Ito) have installed a postmodern decor that's coy, minimalist, and thought-provoking. A bar crafted from mirrors, exotic hardwoods, and replicas of beds is spread across the lounge-disco area. Recommended dishes include crab claws with a sweet-and-sour sauce, fried slices of foie gras with green asparagus tips, and roast lamb flavored with thyme and citrus and served with flap mushrooms and eggplant.
- © Frommer's 2013