One of Paris's most talented chefs, Bernard Pacaud, drew attention with his vivid flavors and gastronomic skill, but culinary standards here are declining. At this 17th-century town house, the decor resembles an Italian palazzo. Pacaud's tables are nearly always filled with diners drawn here by all that praise in Michelin. The dishes change seasonally and may include escargot cannelloni in a creamy star anise-flavored broth or roasted foie gras glazed with onion caramels, lobster gazpacho; or poulard de Bresse demi-deuil homage à la Mère Brazier (chicken roasted with black truffles and truffled vegetables). There is a rather snobby attitude here: It's a bit shocking when one calls for a reservation to be asked to state one's nationality.
- © Frommer's 2013
- Recommended 2010